rejracer Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 Protect the threads by putting lug nuts on them and torque them down a bit. When using impact guns don't use extensions and even avoid deep well sockets if you can. Both reduce the amount of momentary torque that gets transferred to the nut. An extension acts as a torsion spring (even impact extensions) and to a lesser degree deep well sockets. Of course make sure you are using heavy impact sockets as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 (edited) Necropost, I know .........but this might help someone trying to get the stub axle nuts loose at a upull junkyard. It sucks to work hard and come home empty handed because you couldn't get the nut off or damaged something in the epic struggle to remove the nut. You know those rims they weld together to make a "junkyard jackstand"? They are the perfect "vise" to hold anything you can bolt to them. What I do is remove the entire control arm and simply plug the stub axle into one of those "junkyard jackstands" and run a couple of lugnuts from the other side of the wheel to hold it. Now you have a stub axle that will stay put while you jump up and down on your breaker bar. It helps to find one that is turned a little and is under a heavy car. Shop around with the brake rotor for the proper bolt circle before lugging the heavy assembly around. Edited October 19, 2012 by HowlerMonkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 (edited) It is actually possible to walk out of the junkyard 40 minutes after you arrive at a Z31 with both axle shafts, the companion flanges, and the stub axles undamaged but the Z31 requires a bit more than the S30 or S130. I usually pry out the spring while the shock is still attached because I have come across damaged tripods where someone undid the shock bolt which caused the springs to push the control arms down enough to put a lot of pressure on the tripods which are now limiting the downward movement once the shock bolt is removed. Two pry bars will pry out the springs of a Z31 non-turbo with very little danger involved though I don't recommend doing this with the turbos or shiro edition with stock springs because they are storing a bit more potential energy. From there it takes very little time to undo the e.brake cables, calipers, brake lines, sway bar link nuts, both control arm bolts, and pry the axle shafts from the diff. This leaves you with the control arm with the axle still bolted up. It's much easier to unbolt the six bolts that hold the axle shaft to the companion flange when you have it plugged into the "junkyard jackstands"............much easier than laying under the car trying to get around the bracket that shrouds them. Just make sure to not pull the tripods out while you move about the assembly. Once the axles are removed and you have the nut off the stub axle, simply use a puller to pull the companion flange off, take the assembly off of the "junkyard jackstand", screw the stub axle nut back on a few threds, and use an extension on your socket to hammer it out. It usually comes out easly without even marking up the nut. If you're doing this on another car, it might not be the easiest way and some nuts are staked but it works well on the Z31. Edited October 19, 2012 by HowlerMonkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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