turboHLS30 Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Ok as some of you know I'm selling my L24 with triples and a Cartech turbo kit. Well I have people interested but they want a vid of it running and a compression test. Well the problem is I can't start the motor because my harness that controls the lights and sends power to the starter and ignition got fried somehow (there's a short somewhere) and now I can't do anything. So my main question is, is there a way to hard wire it to get it to turn over and start so I can do a compression test and get a vid of it running? It still has a mechanical dizzy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted August 23, 2010 Administrators Share Posted August 23, 2010 If only wanting to "Crank" the engine for compression checks, only thing you need to do is the jump start by bridging the two posts/connectors in the picture below linked by the MAGENTA line. Using a screw driver or other metal object such as socket extension, bridge the two electrical posts/connectors picture below, (It wont shock you, but it will create ad big loud bright arc, so be ready for that). The little one will be the spade connector, (that is the start signal wire), unplug that connector so you can make this connection. those two posts on the starter. If wanting to start the engine, make sure you get power to the dizzy/coil, (typically key in the ON position, if those wires are fried, connect directly to the battery, when you are ready to start). Using a screw driver or other metal object, bridge the two electrical posts/connectors picture below. The little one will be the spade connector, (that is the start signal wire), unplug that connector so you can make this connection. Once the engine fires, remove that connection. REmove power to the dizzy/coil to kill the engine. Hope that helps, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboHLS30 Posted August 23, 2010 Author Share Posted August 23, 2010 To start the car do I just send 2 wires directly from the positive and negative terminals to the positive and negative on the distributor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 (edited) Ah the spade connector is a start signal... that goes back to the ECU correct? So this would just be a 12V switched? Edited August 23, 2010 by Challenger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboHLS30 Posted August 23, 2010 Author Share Posted August 23, 2010 Well my car doesn't have an ECU (triples) but I'm guessing the spade connector goes to the ignition not ECU, but I may be wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goodoldjam Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 (edited) Should just need a power source feeding to the coil, from the battery positive. The negative on the coil is how the distributor switches the coil on and off, so don't give it a constant ground. Then if you have a electric fuel pump that needs power, you'll need to deal with that to. Then cranking it should make it run. If you don't want to use a screwdriver to jump the starter solenoid you can pick up a remote starter switch for $15. Edited August 23, 2010 by goodoldjam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboHLS30 Posted August 24, 2010 Author Share Posted August 24, 2010 Ok cool. I actually have a Gatorade bottle rigged with a nipple that I'm gonna use to start it because I don't have the money for a fuel pump. I also have a remote starter already too. Thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.