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Replacing quarter panel, questions


Guest JAMIE T

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Guest JAMIE T

I am cutting the quarter off a parts car for my '71. I am an experianced welder, so that ain't a problem. I've also done some body work. I just need to know what I should look out for when doing this. Where should I cut the quarter when removing it? There is a stressed point on the pillar, I think that may be where the original panels join. Should I go as far forward as the door jamb? Even replace the door jamb too? I'm going to do this in a weekend, since this is my driver.

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Guest Anonymous

I totally agree. Flanged patch panels is just rust waiting to happen. No matter how hard you try with weldable primers and such you have two steel surfaces just waiting for moisture to get them going. Butt weld them, done right and a bit of dolly work from the back side as its cooling down will require very little (actually none if your REALLY good at it, I've seen guys do it) work to be ready for paint, sometimes no filler at all. How its done will depend on how big the quarter patch panel is. The ones I've see on like early mustang was a matter of drilling out spot welds and then skinning off the panel, the new one is clamped and plug welded back in place, the Z should be similar, you'd probably have to rework the lead joint where the panel is welded on top by the hatch.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Guest JAMIE T

Thanks guys. I've got a feel for what I'm in store for, but still wanted to be prepared. I've NEVER done anything like this. I am a welder(8hrs. a day 5 days a week). I am also a perfectionist, so I wont stop until it's RIGHT. I am going to do it over a weekend, so I shouldn't be too rushed. I will have another car to drive if it drags on anyway. Thanks RacerX, I look forward to reading the step-by-step from an experianced body man.

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Guest JAMIE T

hehehee. I guess that would help, huh? Actually the reason I'm replacing the quarter is due to the fact I backed into a telephone pole. It wrinkled the quarter pretty good. I wasn't going that fast, maybe 5mph. Still, on this early zcar, the metal is very thin. The frame rails aren't bent either. There is rust in the rear most part of the rocker panel. The impact really was at the outside edge of the rear corner, it didn't even bend the tail light surround. It bent bumper badly too, and that pushed the lower part of the panel in. I want to cut the panel out from were the top and quarter meet and as far forward as just about were the rocker trim ends at the back. In the rear tail light panel, I will cut it just past the drivers tail light location. I was thinking I could replace the top of the tail light panel that rust out on these cars. I am replacing the drivers side quarter BTW. I am a good welder and am very good with a grinder also. At work, we call ourselves the anonymous welders, since we grind all of the welds down smooth. My wheel wells are cut out for tire clearance and it has the ZG flares on there. BTW, yes I do have access to a plasma cutter, but I thought I could just use a cut off wheel on the die grinder. I hope this helps you.

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Guest Anonymous
Originally posted by RacerX:

You must pull the damage out (not perfectly flat) as much as possible. Then you must be sure to check the gaps between the hatch and Q-panels, then the gaps between the Q-panels and doors to ensure consistent gaps.

 

RacerX

Thats why your the expert, attention to things like that. I would have blindly pulled the panel and not done that and then probably would have been surprised with gaps existed. Guess thats why your Boss makes the big bucks huh? :D Your the Man!

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Guest JAMIE T

Dang. I'm glad I asked. I would have just cut the old one off and put the new on on. If I am going to to go threought the trouble of straightening the panel that much, should I just fix the car without replacing the quarter. Just do a lot of hammer and dolly work(mostly hammer ;) )?

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Here's a link to an article on the Miller site for welding. I remembered this when I read it from a tip I got from the Welding Talk forum on the Hobart site, but when welding thin metal such as car bodies (GMAW), us EP setting, not EN - less heat buildup in the metal being welded....

 

Miller Welding Article

 

Hope this helps guys!

 

smile.gif

Brad

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Guest JAMIE T

I'll see what I can do about getting a pic. I think I have actually decided to not cut the quarter off the othe car anyway. The car is very straight and not rusted out. It had rust in the front half of the car, but I cut it out and am uilding a new subframe(more of my cup of tea).

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Guest 400 ci 280z

on my 280 i have to replace part of the quarter panel on the drivers side. it is from the back edge of the wheel well to the back edge of the car and goes from the bottom of the panel to just under the side marker. my problem is my dad said he could try and fix it for me. well he just cut it out and reshaped it but got mad and gave up :mad: . well now i am going to buy a replacement from msa or vb and put it on. i guess my question is what do i need to do to put the new panel on? thanks

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Guest Anonymous

QUARTER PANEL REPLACEMENT:

 

Being a bodyman, I would recommend you change

the whole quarter panel. As rust usually occurs

inside the wheel well joint all the way (front &

rear). Assuming there is no damage to the old

panel(big smashes etc) you can drill out the

spot welds. The best place to splice the top

of the panel is the body line that extends from

the door to taillight. Allow for about 3/4"

overlap to join panel. you can use screws to

hold the panels together before tacking. After

tacking, weld only about 1" sections. Shift to

different sections to prevent heat buildup. If

done properly very little bondo will have to

used. A mig welder should be used if possible.

 

Sunny

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