Computer plug test measurements.

[Hardwyre]

I went through the EFI bible and the shop manual and did the test groups #1 and #2. Here's the results I came up with.

 

The car: 1976 280Z

 

Modification: Chevy alternator mod, MSD 6AL ignition with tach adapter.

 

Test group #1:

Results (Expected Results). [bolded red tests are the ones I'm curious about mostly]

1. Cont/NonCont (Cont/NonCont)

2. Switch ~1/2 - 2/3 throttle distance (~2/3 throttle distance).

3a. 182 ohm (~180ohm)

3b. 156 ohm ("Small resistance")

3c. 101ohm (~100ohm)

4. ~2.58kohm @ 61`F (2.25k - 2.75k @ 68`F)

5. Skip

6. 2.18k @ 61`F (2.25k - 2.75k @ 68`F)

7. 65ohm (Continuity)

8. 48ohm (Continuity)

9a-d. <1ohm (Continuity)

 

Test group #2:

Battery Voltage was approximately 12.2-12.4 with the car off and the dome light on.

1. 11.8v (Battery voltage)

2. 12.12v (Battery voltage)

3a-f. 12.2v (Battery voltage)

 

 

On a side note, I've noticed from time to time that my tachometer will suddenly drop ~500 rpm with absolutely no change in engine performance. I.e. I'll be cruising at say 60mph, and the tach will start to "switch" between 2500 and 2000 rpm (approximately). The engine 'feel' does not change at all; no loss of power, etc. Any ideas?

Edited October 21, 2010 by Hardwyre