Brad-ManQ45 Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 I've soaked mine w/Kroil and hit it with a dead-blow hammer and it doesn't want to move. Now thinking about heating the housing w/MAPP torch and trying it... Any tips from the gurus? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Does it have a large snap ring on the cartridge side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 Nope - it's a T3/T4 center section... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spork Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 If you have access to a sandblaster, it will do wonders at getting them apart. Block off the oil passage and then blast all around the seam (with all bolts removed). They usually will come right apart if you do that. Clean everything up and re-assemble as needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted October 27, 2010 Author Share Posted October 27, 2010 (edited) I finally got some more time to work on it today and succeeded. This is a water-cooled Turbonetics turbo that I had a clipped turbine and stock exhaust housing on, using an S-3 compressor and 70 A/R housing. Due to the way everything was clocked, the old keep loosening the bolts that pair up with the oil feed bosses wasn't gonna work. I wound up using two different size cold chisels because they were basically wedge shaped and worked my way around the turbo. It took a while to notice that it had started to come out, but once I saw progress, it seemed to go much faster! As always, constantly checked for free shaft rotation and no binding. Edited October 27, 2010 by Brad-ManQ45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted October 29, 2010 Share Posted October 29, 2010 Best way to do this to remove as many of the bolts as possible so you can see the joint where the center section goes into the housing and spray WD40 on the joint. Let it soak for a couple of hours and tap evenly on the backing plate to get it out. Of course, clean off the WD40 with brake cleaner unless you like fogging for mosquitos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted October 29, 2010 Author Share Posted October 29, 2010 Really didn't have any WD-40, but Kroil is supposed to be a great penetrant. I use it in gunsmithing too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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