Guest bluex_v1 Posted September 9, 2002 Share Posted September 9, 2002 After many hours with a screw driver, i came to the conclusion that my floorpans are done for. (I even found a small ant colony living in the rust and tar in one of the corners) The subframes could probably have been saved, but I figured if I'm going this far I might as well run the tubing full length from front to rear. So I see the MSA and Zedd Findings pans look identical (http://web.ctsolutions.com/zeddfind/FLOORS1B.JPG) but my transmission tunnel is obviously not as straight as these replacements appear to be made for. Is it understood that you are supposed to just tack them in and beat the hell out of them until they conform properly? Also, is that the difference between these two and MSA's "premium floor pan kit"? I am also considering doing a copy of Pete Paraska's floor/frame integration and just build the tubing structure and then cut my own sheets to fill the spaces...If I do this, what gauge metal should I use? would I need to pound some channels in it for strength? Any other suggestions or options that I should be aware of? (I have a MIG welder and plenty of time to use) Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 9, 2002 Share Posted September 9, 2002 Holy crap MSA wants 85 bucks PER SIDE for their floorpan!? They can keep them, make your own for like 15 bucks, or go to a junkyard and find a decent hood and cut the desired piece. I believe 12 gauge is the way to go (am i wrong guys?). Personally, mine are going to be soldered in when i get around to making them. Good luck by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest buschj Posted September 9, 2002 Share Posted September 9, 2002 Here is what I have learned after two weekends of cutting and welding. I bought the less expensive MSA kit and at least 5% of the spot welds were not intact (So check each weld). I cannot recommend their workmanship but the fit is good. My car had rust damage where the pans go up to become the firewall, so we had to install new steel in addition to the pans (Too many welds). My friend works for a dealership so he is doing most of the work and he keeps telling me we should have made our own pans. I can send you the instructions and some pictures if necessary. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-tom Posted September 9, 2002 Share Posted September 9, 2002 Zed creations makes the floor pans that msa sells as there premium floor pan kit. I got mine from Charlie (zed creations) and they are great. Fast shipping and a very good product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-tom Posted September 9, 2002 Share Posted September 9, 2002 I ment Zed Findings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jdllaugh Posted September 9, 2002 Share Posted September 9, 2002 I'm in the process of replacing my floors, also. I plan to use 18 guage sheet. (12 is waaay to thick.) I bought a 4x8 sheet for $25 at a local steel supply. I'm having an internal debate whether to put in one large sheet per side and tack weld the subframe member to the bottom of the sheet, or put in the subframe member first and then weld pieces of sheet on either side, similar to what Pete Paraska did. I've heard good things about Zedd floors, but my rust also goes up the firewall and trans tunnel walls a bit, so I figured I would have to do serious modifications anyway. Plus I want to put in heavier subframe members than those that come with the Zedd floors. It's all going to get covered up with carpet and under-body coating anyway... I've started building a web site and hope to document some of my steps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted September 9, 2002 Share Posted September 9, 2002 Please do not solder your floor pans. Hopefully you were just kidding. 12 ga is pretty thick, but I dunno, I think 18 ga is too thin. I mean, if you're gonna go to the trouble of making and installing new floors, you really oughtta use at least 16ga. Otherwise, you're basically going back to stock (although even 18 is much thicker than original). I used 14ga for my floors and I'm glad I did. I found a local place that cut and folded the metal for me (and actually 14ga is the thinnest sheet they carry) for about $25. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 9, 2002 Share Posted September 9, 2002 I lucked out in that all my frames and subframes are rust free. All that i would need to do is get the sheetmetal and solder it the pan. looks like the previous owner had some sense and got undercoating beforehand. I didnt realize so many people had tranny tunnel rust ( ), i thought my car was a rust bucket but now i consider myself lucky!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 9, 2002 Share Posted September 9, 2002 Whats wrong with solder? at least the lead seams wont corrode Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted September 9, 2002 Share Posted September 9, 2002 Heck, I just got a full sheet of 16 gauge sheetmetal and cut and welded. Cost me less than 20 bucks. But then I did not use the OEM frame rails...I did the subframe connector thing with 3x1 rectangular tubing. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted September 9, 2002 Share Posted September 9, 2002 If you're replacing your floors due to rust, then your floor supports are probably rusted as well. So, they will have to be replaced. You have to weld the supports to the floors and the forward frame rails to the supports. This is structural. Unless you've got some kind of elaborate, hi tech, mega soldering process in mind. Solder is fine for surface sheet metal that is cosmetic: fenders, cowls, etc. But on a unibody car, the floors are stressed to some degree. Especially when you put a hipo motor up front. Besides, I can't imagine soldering being easier than welding. You have to have a tight overlap of <I>very</I> clean metal. I could see spot welding or stitch welding the materials together, and then soldering in the rest of the seam. But I can't see why this would be desirable or efficient. A lap joint welded on both sides will not corrode - as long as there are no "holes" in the seam(s) for water vapor to enter. Plus it is <B>very</B> strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.