pat1 Posted November 27, 2011 Author Share Posted November 27, 2011 I installed some JDM rx7 FD seats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fxmdb Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Ok i was brain storming for months now , trying to figure out what motor to run in my 260z , from Sr20 to RB26dett and on the end i see a post like this and it all becomes crystal clear to me , 2JZ swap it is Hey Pat1 you are my hero ! If i need any help i'll be sure to send you PM . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat1 Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 Thanks guys. I did a rb20 swap before this and I wanted a bit more in the torque department. I was look at the rb25 and the 26 but I wasn't happy with the torque figures on the rb25 and the 26 would cost a ton. I was going to bite the bullet and go with the 26 then I was reading up on the 1jz and the 2jz. The parts are more available and the toyota reliability is what it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riske Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Hi from over the water! I have a floorless 260Z sitting on my drive which is waiting for a 1JZ. Ive been recently reading through lots of threads but this one is by far the best. it isnt full of technical crap or fancy explinations, its just "this is what i did" pure win. I have a few questions if you can be bothered with, ( your prob too busy out in the beast, i know i would be)also dont like clogging up other peoples threads with crap! Why did you bother with a crossmember? I know ill need custom mounts but why the crossmember? How much room is there above the turbo to the bonnet (hood) with your top mount mani? would any top mount work if you didnt go crazy on turbo size? What work did you do to your JZ before putting it in? ive lined up a 1JZ from an auto soarer (either 92 or 99) both with 100k miles. Where did you get your fuel cell from? where did you mount the surge tank? I got loads more but cant be f***ed to type I wish i had your welding skills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat1 Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 Hi from over the water! I have a floorless 260Z sitting on my drive which is waiting for a 1JZ. Ive been recently reading through lots of threads but this one is by far the best. it isnt full of technical crap or fancy explinations, its just "this is what i did" pure win. I have a few questions if you can be bothered with, ( your prob too busy out in the beast, i know i would be)also dont like clogging up other peoples threads with crap! Why did you bother with a crossmember? I know ill need custom mounts but why the crossmember? How much room is there above the turbo to the bonnet (hood) with your top mount mani? would any top mount work if you didnt go crazy on turbo size? What work did you do to your JZ before putting it in? ive lined up a 1JZ from an auto soarer (either 92 or 99) both with 100k miles. Where did you get your fuel cell from? where did you mount the surge tank? I got loads more but cant be f***ed to type I wish i had your welding skills. I don't mind the questions so ask away. I did the crossmember to make it stronger. The stock frame rails are very thin gauge steel and the motor is very heavy. I think the crossmember makes it a lot stronger. There is a good bit of room between the motor and the bonnet (5-6 inches) I made the engine sit about 8mm to 10mm off the crossmember and the steering rack. I used a top mpunt exhaust manifold off ebay. Thats right ebay I did clean it up a bit and add gussets and support brackets. I did all the normal stuff when the motor was out. All the seals,water pump,tensioner and t-belt,plugs and valve cover gaskets. I did to the top mount and turbo while the engine was out. I found a deal on some HKS cams when the motor swap was completed and running. I just swapped cam with the engine was in the car. The fuel cell is a 15 gallon RCI fuel. I built a surge tank and installed it next to the fuel cell. I used a carter 12v low pressure fuel pump to fill the surge tank and a Bosch 044 right after the surge tank. here here's some pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fxmdb Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Pat1 , can you talk about how you did the drive shaft , and wireing , any wireing diagrams of how to do it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat1 Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 Pat1 , can you talk about how you did the drive shaft , and wireing , any wiring diagrams of how to do it ? Sure, no problem the wiring was easier than the rb20,it had less wires. Mine started up on the first try. I like the 1jz more than the rb20 because it was a map based system. That means no airflow meter. Give me some time and I'll do a write up. The driveshaft was easy as well. First mount the engine and trans where you want it. Measure from the trans tailshaft to the diff flange and write that measurement down. Mine was right at 25 inches. I took the stock driveshaft to the driveshaft shop and gave them the measurement. They supplied me a brandnew toyota slip yoke. They built me a shaft with new u joints and balanced for 215.00. They had it done in one day. This was a easy swap but I work on cars for a living and do this for fun. I do all my fabing and welding. I had a little fun with a AMG SL55 yesterday. Lets say you should of seen the look on that guys face lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fxmdb Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Lol i bet man , i cant wait to have my z done , hey i will be waiting for that write up on the wireing . Thanks man . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat1 Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 (edited) this is for the supra 1jzgte here is the ecu pin out grounds E1 E2 E01 E02 TE1 TE2 use a DVOM and check for continuity to engine block ground. Do NOT connect to battery YOU WILL smoke it. M-REL BATT +B BT IG-sw must be run to the correct places BT is switched power BATT is constant power +B is switched power M-REL is a switched ground from the efi relay IG sw switched power this where it gets alittle tricky you need a 30 relay. I like bosch relays because you can trust them relay pin 85 body ground 30 12v power from battery fused 86 M-REL 87 BT,+B hooking up the starter I used the stock datsun starter signal wire. This is the square connector under the dash of the 1JZ. It has 15 pins. The pins have the following meaning: 1. White - Red Progressive power steering + 2. Black Heater control valve switched to ground 3. Black - Red Switched +12v from fusebox (EFI) 4. Yellow Fuel pump control relay coil 5. Black - Blue Start signal for starter (fat wire) 6. Green Signal for circuit opening relay 7. Black - Red FP signal checkbox from fuel pump relay 8. White - Green Progressive power steering - 9. Blue - Red A/C signal from A/C ECU to engine ECU 10. Black - White Starter signal for NSW (fat wire) 11. Grey IGSW signal from ignition fuse 12. Red - Blue O/D signal fro Cruise control from ECU 13. Red - Green SP2 signal from ECT for cruise control 14. Black Ignition + for ignition coils and injectors (FAT) 15. White - Blue To Fan ECU The white connector pictured here on the right, is for the main signals to the car. The pin out is: 1. Brown AB (airbag) signal check box 2. Green - Orange ECT Power switch 3. Red - Yellow trip counter signal (white-red) 4. Black L1 5. Green - Yellow Solenoid 2 from ECT to Cruisecontrol 6. Violet Ts signal checkbox (TEMS) 7. Yellow RR- rear ABS speed sensor 8. Black RR+ rear ABS speed sensor 9. Yellow Oil level light switch 10. Light Green- Red Auto gearbox indication "2" 11. Blue Check signal cruise (Tc) 12. Orange ?? 13. Grey O/D signal (not sure) 14. Red L2 15. Red - White L3 16. N.C. N.C. 17. Blue - Yellow Rear speed signal for ECT from ABS 18. Black IG- (RPM) ************************************************************************************************ TACH WIRE 19. Red - Yellow ELS signal 20. Red - Black PSEN for ABS 21. Blue - White From tripple hi-low pressure to cooling fan computer 22 Yellow - Red to grey connector pin 25 23. Blue Auto gearbox indication "L 1. N.C. 2. Brown Ground (for exh. temp etc) 3. Yellow +12 v for auto gear indication 4. Green - white Stop signal from footbrake 5. N.C. 6. N.C. 7. Yellow - Green Water temp for dashboard 8. Pink Speed signal 9. N.C. 10. Black - Blue Start signal for circuit opening relay 11. Black Tach signal for combination meter 12. N.C. 13. Green - Black exh. temp sensor CCO check box 14. Red 'P' signal auto gearbox indication 15. White 'N' signal auto gearbox indication 16. Violet 'D' signal auto gearbox 17. N.C. 18. Brown Ground for ECU etc. 19. Grey - Green Check engine light 'W' checkbox 20. Yellow - Blue Exh. temp warning light 21. Yellow - Black 22. Grey - Green Check engine light 23. Yellow - Red / Yellow - Black Oil pressure switch 24. Black - Red Back up lights + 'R' signal 25. Yellow - Red / Yellow - Blue To white rect. connector pin 22 At the fusebox, there is another connector to power the whole engine and ECU. This connector has 12 pins: 1. Black - Yellow +12 v EFI unswitched 2. Black - Orange M-REL EFI main relay 3. light green OPT, water sensor in rad 4. Blue / Blue - Red A/C speed sensor 5. Black - Red +12v EFI switched 6. Black - Red To temp sensor in rad 7. Brown ACMG from ECU to clutch 8. Light Green - Red A/C speed sensor 9. Blue A/C magnetic clutch from relay 10. Yellow - Green Charge warning light alternator *******************************************alternator charge light to gauge 11. White AM1, ALT + *********************************************************************** Battery + that supplys the field 12. Black - Yellow to Alternator from engine / gauge fuse ***********************************battery + to battery this isn't done just a start Edited December 5, 2011 by pat1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fxmdb Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 lol ok i give up , im gonna pay someone to get this done for me , i just dont wanna make a mistake , you interested ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat1 Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 lol ok i give up , im gonna pay someone to get this done for me , i just dont wanna make a mistake , you interested ?? I can do it but it's very easy. Anybody that can read a wiring diagram and knows how to use a DVOM can wire this up. A 2jz is going to be a bit different. The pins are going to be in a different place. Some of the supra guys use the 2jz ecu on the 1jz. The 1jz have bad capacitors. I replaced mine for about $3.00. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fxmdb Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 Im ordering the motor tomorrow , once i get to the wiring if i cant figure it out i will be asking you for help. How you like that exst manifold , i was gonna get one but not sure about the quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Pat1, You are putting up a lot of useful wiring info for the 1jz guys. Mad props. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 One thing about the US 2JZGTE - it was MAF based. Unless you have some way to modify ECU signals MAF is usually better but the 2JZ MAF is pretty restrictive so most dump it ASAP anyway. I want to say the JDM 2JZ used MAP but I'm not 100% sure. The Supra did use a MAP sensor for boost cut, easily bypassed if memory serves. Given a choice go with a standalone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat1 Posted December 14, 2011 Author Share Posted December 14, 2011 One thing about the US 2JZGTE - it was MAF based. Unless you have some way to modify ECU signals MAF is usually better but the 2JZ MAF is pretty restrictive so most dump it ASAP anyway. I want to say the JDM 2JZ used MAP but I'm not 100% sure. The Supra did use a MAP sensor for boost cut, easily bypassed if memory serves. Given a choice go with a standalone You are correct the JDM 2jz is map base system also. Well I think my ecu is taking a dump so I'm think about going to go with AEM EMS v2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 You are correct the JDM 2jz is map base system also. Well I think my ecu is taking a dump so I'm think about going to go with AEM EMS v2. I had a great deal of experience with their first ECU and in the end it was pretty awesome! Nothing like being able to develop full boost at the line, complete with W/G open, for launch off the 2-step with anti-lag! The car ran pretty close to stock and made huge power, learned a ton. If I drop my drivetrain into the Z I'll probably upgrade to the V2 as well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hester_prynne Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 so you are on the stock ecu at the moment? no kind of piggy back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat1 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 I fixed the stock ecu and I'm running a apexi neo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hester_prynne Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 is your 1j from a supra or a soarer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat1 Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 It's the supra 1jz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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