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Replacing 240z amp/fuel gauge with 280z volt/fuel gauge questions?


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ok I have a 1971 series 1 240z and just bought a volt/fuel gauge from a 1976 280z. I have been searching around the net to find a writeup on doing this swap and have only found one for a 260 that was not quite complete. anyone who has done this swap and can chime in or post a link to a writeup would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance jamie

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Your Amp Gauge is wired with an inductive pickup. The 260Z has a unit mounted to the right side fender well just under the voltage Regulator. This unit has 4 wires. 2 big wires and 2 small wires. The big wires are a loop and the small wires loop around them on the inside of the unit. This is the pickup for the 260Z though. I am un-sure where the 240Z picks up its inductive signal.

 

Once you have the circuit isolated(if desired to pull or reuse) you can move on to wiring the new voltage gauge in.

 

I was never able to figure out how to setup the little red warning light with my alternator(not an old Datsun/Hitachi or Mitsubishi unit anymore).

 

You will need to break out a wiring diagram for a 280Z and wire it as intended into your 240Z. You may be able to use the old pickup wires for the amp meter to run the voltage and the red warning light. I cant remember if it involves 2 or 3 wires on the dash side connector.

 

If you cannot understand a wiring diagram its time to learn or find someone that can do this for you.

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i believe i can connect the 2 larger gauge wires behind the amp gauge and that will complete the circuit the amp gauge breaks. I was more concerned with the fuel gauge. I am assuming Nissan changed the wire colors, connectors over the years and don't want to **** it up...have the 71 wireing diagram guess it is time to look at the 76...was just hoping to hear from someone who has done this.

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For the voltmeter, you don't want to hook it up where the ammeter was. They run on different principles. You want to just hook the ground up to any ground point, and the hot wire, hook up to the B+ through the ignition switch, so that any time the switch is turned on, even with it not running, it can read the battery voltage through the whole car's system. The ammeter just shows the current drain... either into or out of the battery, and connects two wires directly to the alternator and battery.

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