dpuma8 Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 This will be my first trip to the machine shop with my block. What should I have done? Knowing that prices differ between shops, what range should I expect to pay for the services you mention? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmanout84 Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Take everything you can off the block, and reinstall the main bearing caps and torque them to spec (this helps if they need to bore). Its going to need to be hot tanked and cleaned. Remove all the core plugs and main oil gallery plugs to assist this process. Have them Magniflux inspect it too to check for cracks. I'm assuming you didn't do any measurements yourself, so make sure they check them. The deck for straightness/flatness, as well as the bearing bores. Get a "rebuild your Datsun OHC" book just in case the shop doesn't know the specs. Don't have the shop rebore your block unless the cylinder walls are tapered out of spec or seriously damaged. Most of the time they just need a new hone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpuma8 Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 I asked a local shop for these services but I am not sure if these are all necessary or if I am missing some important machining tasks. Magnafluxed block……………………………………..$25.00 Hot tanked block…………………………………………$48.00 3 angle valve job………………………………………….$150.00 Check and Polish crankshaft………………………..$55.00 Check and polish connecting rods……………….$150.00 Clean and check pistons………………………………$45.00 Any I am missing? Any I am wasting money on? Thanks a TON for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmanout84 Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 That's actually really good. I wouldn't count a 3 angle valve job as "block work", which is why I didn't mention it. But that's a really good price. Add "balance rotating assembly" to that list of things to do, and plan on spending just a bit more in case they need to deck the block or resurface the head to fix possible warpage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpuma8 Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 Thanks Oddman, you are the man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetleaf Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 I't would really help if you provided more information. The big question, why are you rebuilding the motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpuma8 Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 I am rebuilding for two reasons. 1) Spark plugs had oil all over them and I had much lower compression compared to the others and 2) I wanted to have the experience of doing a rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdizzy204 Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 is it just the block or block+head? valve job=head work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpuma8 Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 I screwed up and thought the valve job was a block procedure. I bought a rebuilt head online so I just need the block done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfalp1592 Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 IMHO the balancing is the big thing. I always supply the crank pully/damper for that reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpuma8 Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 I thought these engine do not need to be balanced like I read in one of the stickies. Does it need to be balanced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmanout84 Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 (edited) I thought these engine do not need to be balanced like I read in one of the stickies. Does it need to be balanced? Balancing is ALWAYS a big thing for the rotating assembly. Its absolutely crucial. The key is that Nissan made a lot of these components very well so often when they're balanced at a machine shop 20-30 years later they're still within tolerances. However just because they're usually good doesn't mean you should just skip the process. The force a few mere grams of imbalance exerts is hundreds of pounds of force at higher RPM. It will severly reduce the life of the crank if not destroy it all together in very short order. The L6 series engines are all internally balanced, so you don't "need" to balance it with the harmonic damper and flywheel installed as long as they themselves are perfectly in balance. I had them balanced, then also had them balanced again as installed on the crank just as a form of redundancy. Edited February 3, 2011 by Oddmanout84 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpuma8 Posted February 4, 2011 Author Share Posted February 4, 2011 Okay then! So add crankshaft balancing. How much should that cost me? Anything else? Do I need the flywheel on it? Should I bring that to the shop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmanout84 Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 Okay then! So add crankshaft balancing. How much should that cost me? Anything else? Do I need the flywheel on it? Should I bring that to the shop? Like I said, you don't NEED to attach the flywheel, just make sure its perfectly balanced itself. Balancing it with the crank is just a form of redundancy. Costs can vary, but my full rotating assembly balance probably cost the most out of anything else I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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