Autocross L6 Rebuild - A Few Misc Questions

[fp280z]

In the final stages before reassembly of my FP motor and had a few questions for the engine builder folks. Short story, this is a 13.5:1 autocross motor that started life in a GT2 car and was converted to autocross specs (different cam, wet sump) a couple of years ago after I bought it. JE pistons, Carillo rods, worked head, etc. More info and pics of that process on my website if yer interested.

 

Anyway, the crank broke last August and fast forward to now, everything is back from the machine shop mostly ready for assembly (still have a list of to-dos like setting the ring gaps, etc). The block and crank were tossed and I had a stock F54 block bored and honed to match the JE pistons, new piston rings, new-used stock crank checked for straightness, micropolished journals, and balanced with clutch/flywheel. Head got a valve job and new valve guides. Everything else disassembled and cleaned. New Rebello damper to hopefully extend the life of this crank.

 

This is personally my first rebuild ever but I've done almost everything else on an L6 over the past 10 years. I have read the "How to Rebuild" and "How to Modify" books and the FSM. And I still have questions!

 

Goal is to have a reliable power plant that I can autocross for 5-7 years before a teardown. With no oil leaks!

 

Here goes:

1. I'm running a 3/4 NPT to AN hose to an external breather off of the crankcase breather outlet. Do I still need the "mesh" inside the block? Would just running the sheet metal baffle be sufficient for this setup?

 

2. The JE piston instructions show the ring gap aligned to the thrust face of the cylinder bore for one of the rings and then the other 180 degrees out. I was planning instead to use the standard L6 orientation described in the books referenced above. Opinions?

 

3. Recommended method for securing/sealing the NPT plugs in the oil galleys (or is it gallery? seen both used)? Books mention "epoxy" but no particular type (old books obviously). Some posts have mentioned loctite, is that sufficient? Or do I need a specific epoxy?

 

4. I'm trying to avoid RTV this round. I've used it in the past but would like to get away from it for anything touching oil. Planning on using Permatex 2A on all of the engine gaskets using the goop gasket, finger tight front cover/oil pan/etc., wait overnight and then torque to spec process. Any other recommendations? I have the AZcar competition oil pan and MSA competition gasket.

 

5. Final wipe down of bearing caps/races before installing bearings, should this be "wipe all traces of oil off the cap and back of the bearing using solvent" or "wipe down but leave a film of fresh oil on these surfaces"? This is pertaining to the bare metal on the caps/races, obviously the face of the bearings and bearing journals will get oil/prelube on assembly.

 

Thanks in advance for any help. I know some of this stuff is general knowledge out there. Any other tips also appreciated.

 

-Rick

[SHADY280]

as for #1, yes use the mesh, oil will come thru without it

#2, id go with the je instructions as you are using je pistons

#3, loctite is a great thing, use a blue so you can get them out later, red just makes life difficult

#4 i have a leak free engine for 5 years now, i used felpro gaskets, a metal head gasket. put a extremely light coat of rtv on the more prone ones, then let set 15 minutes and tighten bolts to spec. dont over torque it causes warpage and guess what, leaks

#5 wipe down bearings or any engine internals with a lint free good quality cloth. then use assembly lube with a very clean finger to apply a film. this makes initial startup not so painful for new surfaces. dont forget to fill the pump, then prime the oil system.