Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


toolman last won the day on May 8

toolman had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About toolman

  • Rank
    Always Here

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. Wheeler, Your frame rails look great. Are you going to race the car? I started to do detail work on the engine compartment and decided to work on the radiator support instead. While measuring the areas in front of the radiator-area where the bumper and hood hinge attach to) needed straightening. First picture shows the old radiator support. Second pic is of both areas stripped of paint and cleaned. The third photo has the right side with the reinforcement rib removed to fix under it. Fourth pic had the rib replaced and ready to rewelded on. The fifth photo is the left side with the rib removed and damaged area repaired. Sixth pic show the rib replaced awaiting to be welded back. The vehicle was in an accident before I bought it and the area( crush area) was not repaired as that would require rib removal. Next to be done will the construction of the replacement radiator support.
  2. First photo is the left side stabilizer bar mounting holes( a plate with corresponding nuts welded to it will be installed in the frame rail later) Second pic is the right side stabilizer mounting holes. Third picture shoes mocking up in preparation for welding of the tension rod bracket. Fourth pic is the completed left side bracket. It is constructed of 3" x 1"x 1/8" steel tubing (same as frame connectors) The angle section is set at 20 degrees. Fifth photo is the inside view of the bracket. Sixth photo is the outer view of the right side tension rod bracket. Seventh pic is the inside view of the tension rod bracket. Both left and right tension rod brackets will have 20 gauge plates welded to inside and outside of them. This will replicate the factory appearance.
  3. First photo is the "before picture" of the left side of frame rail. Notice 1" gap. Second pic is 3/4" X 2" right angle 20 gauge sheetmetal welded to subframe and existing sheetmetal Third picture is outside view of right angle connecting pice welded to subframe and wheel housing. Fourth pic is an additional 20 gauge 3" wide and about 48" long welded to the subframe and existing sheetmetal. This will provide additional strength and looks better. Fifth photo is right side frame rail with connecting right angle support plate. Sixth pic shows welding the right side "cover plate'" to sheetmetal and subframe. Seventh photo is engine compartment view of the subframe and connecting piece. All the mig welds will covered with urethane seam sealer after media blasting. Next step is construct tension rod support brackets for both sides.
  4. First photo is the left side frame rail with the frame connector welded to the firewall. Second picture is the passenger side frame and frame connector welded to the firewall. I was glad that put a 16 gauge reinforcement plate under the frame rail. Otherwise, welding 1/8" frame to 23 gauge firewall would be extremely difficult.
  5. The first picture show a better view of the plumb line. The second photo show the left suspension mockup. The third picture is of the right side suspension mockup. The fourth photo is a closeup of the left side crossmember. Note the two 1" assess holes in the top of the frame rail. The holes will capped off later to prevent water and debris from entering.
  6. Labor Day Weekend gave me extra day to work on the Z. Unfortunately the holiday also meant most of my neighbors headed the beach and were not around to me carry the heavier stuff. The first picture of the new subframe on the ground. Had to drag it under the car and lift on the jack stands. Second and third pictures show aligning the subframe to existing body using datum line(center line and plume line(vertical line).
  7. The following photos show mocking up the crossmember mounting to the frame rails. The frame was leveled and checked for squareness. Then it was welded together. Next step is to mount the frame to the utilized body.
  8. I researched all methods of mounting the engine crossmember to frame rails(both untilized or steel tubing construction. Everyone notched the frame rail to mount the crossmember. This method requires a lot of time and effort so I decided on a simpler method. I relocated the two mounting bolt holes about 3/4" inward. See photo. This method does require two holes drilled on the top of the frame rail to install frame bolts. I drilled two 1" holes directly over the crossmember bolts(inside the frame tube). Caps will cover the assess holes to prevent water from entering in.
  9. Another view of the new front frame connector. Next step is to weld up the frame rail to firewall. Then, attach the sheetmetal side apron to the frame rails.
  10. The front frame rail checked with bubble level. Level check was done sidewards for both front and rear section of the frames rails. Rignt side frame was checked for levelness. Left side rail checked levelness too. Both rails were also checked for squareness. This is done both measuring diagonally the opposide cotners of the frame rails. A new 2 1/2" tubing was cut to join the two frame rails together at the front.

    My 1971 Datsun 240Z sat in my garage for 34 years waiting to be restored. I had planned to do it when I retired in two more years. But when one of my friends wanted to buy the Chevy 350 engine out of the Z. I decided to let him have it. I had already decided to go to LS3 crate motor any way. My Z has a 350 with 600 Carter AFB with a T-5 5 speed manual transmission and R200 rear end. I plan to do a complete restoration(using a rotisserie).
  12. right side frame rail mocked up on jack stands. Shimmed to be level lengthwise and sideways. frame rail contoured to match firewall to provide easier welding top view of rail and firewall outside view of rail and firewall top inside view of right frame rail
  13. L/S frame rail cutoff using plasma cutter crossmember box removed from frame rail new frame-2 1/2 X 1/8" square steel tubing being setup notice gap-about 1" between square tubing and wheelwell. A filler piece fill this gap. the filler piece consists of 6" strip of 16 gauge sheet metal connecting tubing with existing wheel well housing the firewall end of the square tubing was capped with 1/8" metal plate. Notice the plate was made with about 3 /16" edge around it. This was to allow easier welding the tubing to the firewall. mockup of the connecting piece between the square tube frame and underfloor frame connectors One of the most difficult potion of the front frame construction will be connecting the crossmember to the square frame rail. The connector will need to be smaller than the width of the square tubing.
  14. Welded the frame rails to floor pan and rear crossmembers. In the front, rails welded to reinforcement plates attached to floor pan. Rear section was welded to existing rear crossmember. Rails were also spot welded in the middle sections. In preparation for engine compartment rail construction, the engine compartment was boxed to prevent body shifting while cutting off the front rails. The photo shows using the bubble level on the top of the engine to sidewards level. The car must be set level before any cutting can be done.