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toolman

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toolman last won the day on May 8 2017

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  1. Jeff, Yes, the hood hinges are riveted together and can not be taken apart. When I removed the hinges from my Toater oven, they were a little stiff. But with opening and closing them a few times, they were fine. But there are plastic bushings used in the rear hatch hinges so be careful. I would use some kind of Heat Absorbing Gel just to be sure if I was you. The door latches also use small rubber bumpers in them. Powder Coating is thick and will tighten clearances a lot. Use heat tape and silicon plugs when possible. Hope this information helps you.
  2. I found that putting screws on a bamboo paint mixing stick to be a good holder of this type of items to be powder coated. The hole in the stick provides a way to hang it up in the oven. Cracked Interior plastic panels were repaired using Urethane Supple Plastic Welder with UniFlex rods. Finally got those white plastic headlight adjusting screws mounts from Ebay. Took a month for it to come from China. Finally assemblied. I managed get a Whirlpool oven( was only 3 yrs old} for $50. It was hardly used and now I can powder coat larger stuff. Put four swivel casters on a dolly to make it easier to move around my garage. The first item to be powder coated was the Datsun trim on the top of the rocker panel. Just fit!! Picture of both of the Datsun Trim pieces after Super Chrome and Clear powder coating. Front Marker Lights before Powder Coating. Marker Light assembly after Powder Coating. The original light assembly was removed and replaced with a DOT LED light assembly. Pic of the Door Lock Assembly after cleaning and sandblasting. Note-Be sure to removr all plastic and rubber components before putting in the oven. I used Mechanics Time Saver Hot stop which is Gel that absorbs heat when welding or heating near vulnerable parts. I don't think this brand is still made. But look in plumbing supplies etc for similar products. It really works and evaporates away in 48 hours. The front stabilizer bar mounts and shim plates after Powder Coating. Pics of Interior Door Opener after Powder Coating. After Flat Black Paint applied to assembly. Dorr Handles Powder Coated Unfortunately, the horns can not be Powder Coating as the Heat may damage their internal coils. My front crossmember had to be send out to the Powder Coaters as it was too big for me to do even in my New Oven. When it is finished, I will start to reassembly the front and rear suspension. My Rocket Bunny kit should come in by Summer time. So the next thing on my agenda is seeing if I can make a Wheel and Tire Fitment Tool for my Z.
  3. walkerbk, I had many items powder coated by a professional shop before this project and have good results. Powder coating is even stronger than polyurethane paint if full cured. I setup a demonstration of powder coating using some of my power coated samples. First, powder coating being hit with pointed side of a body hammer. Next, Hitting with a round punch Note-the powder coating is dented but didn't peel off.. Hitting a sharp punch with a hammer The results are: Only the sharp punch pierced the powder coating. Top view Bottom side of test panel shows the dents and the sharp indention I decided to clean up and powder coat more parts. By doing this now, I would discover any parts that needed to be replaced instead of waiting till final assembly. So parts were organized in Ziplock sandwich bags for the small items. Ziplock large freeze bags handled most of the larger parts. The bags were all marked to identify the parts. The following pics will show what powder coating can do in a restoration project: Before After Powder Coating Hatch hinges after Powder Coating. Hatch Lock Assembly after Powder Coating Hood Lock Assembly after Powder Coating top view bottom view Hatch Guide Plates Before After Door Catch Assembly and shim after Powder Coating Assorted fasteners after Powder Coating 240Z emblems before Powder Coating' After Powder Coating and Brush Painting The windshield washer nozzles were cracked in several places. They were repaired by putting brass tubing(from Hobby Shop) over the cracks. Then lead soldering them in. Painted them Silver after priming. Hood Striker after powder Coating Hand Brake Cable Brackets after Powder Coating Originally I thought I would only be Powder Coating the Under Carriage parts of the car but ended up doing so much more. And still have a lot more to do.
  4. Thanks, Hu91gt, I just returned from a business trip to Las Vegas. While there, I made some time to visit Harbor Freight. Purchased their Vibratory Tumbler for $54. Plan to use it to clean up some of my parts for powder coating. This is their 5 LB version but have a bigger 15 LB available too. All parts were first washed in solvent to remove oils and grease then blown dry. Painted parts were treated with paint removers to remove most of the paint as possible. Then, items were put into the hopper and run for about a hour. 24grit aluminum oxide used in the vibratory tumbler to remove even more rust and paint. Finally the parts were sandblasted in the cabinet. Finally, the parts were washed with Lacquer Thinner before powder coating. In those stubborn cases, a wire wheel was used to speed up the cleaning process. To get more powder coating space in my small toaster, I placed the oven vertically and installed a 3/8" round steel rod to hang parts from. .032 Aviation Safety wire to hang up the parts in the spraying cabinet and coating oven. Safety Wire is really strong, flexible and can be used over and over before replacing. A Double Extra Long Nose Plier was extremely useful in the tight confines of my spray cabinet and coating oven. Note-Multiple parts can be attached by utilizing Safety Wire. All of the Threaded parts should chased with the correct Thread Chaser( internal and external). Taps and Dies will overcut the threads.
  5. SH4DY, If you go to Cen III & IV Chevy V8tech board then HD Duty Frame rail posting. I go over in detail using a Motorsport Full Cap dash cover to create a Full dash restoration. It covers refoaming under the plastic cover to making molds to recreate the lower sections of the dash board(that are not included in the Full dash cap. This dash restoration took over a month to do. If you have any questions, ask and I'll try to assist you. Toolman
  6. I found that turning my Toaster Oven on its side provided easier parts mounting. Also, Lining the rear wall of the oven with aluminum foil raised the curing temperature slightly. I used a long cardboard box with the 2500watt infared light to cure long parts. Also, lining the box with aluminum foil help keeping the heat from escaping. The top and side of the box was also covered with Foil. The Hood Torsion Spring Rods were slightly longer than my Infrared oven. So the rods were cured on one side then flipped over to cure the other side. The most difficult part of this powder coating job was trying to match the Chromate plating. To achieve this. I used Super Chrome as the base powder coating. Translucent Gold powder would be used as the Top Coat. But there are about twenty different variants of the Gold color. There are also many variables in the application of the Top Coat powder. The number of Top Coats applied over the base Super Chrome will make the color darker with more coats. Preheating the part being coating aids in adhesion but changes the color slightly. The speed of powder spraying affects the color shade. The spraying distance from part affects color especially with metallic colors. I made dozens of metal strips to test the various powder coatings. A new Rear spindle rod was used for matching purposes. If you used the wrong color, you can strip the powder coating off with Kwik Strip New Paint Remover. This is not the old Aircraft Paint Remover with the toxic fumes and really messy. Use paint brush to apply Thick Coats of stripper. Let the stripper work for 15 minutes and then scrape off when coating wrinkles. Then, scrape off using a plastic spreader. Wear gloves and safety googles when stripping. I took my gloves to take this photo. A small particle of stripper landed just above my glove and it burned like Hell!! The stripping process was faster than the old Aircraft Remover. Less Fumes and a more "Dry" method. After Top Coat Powder Coating, the hand Brake bracket looked that this: Note-The Light Gold coloring The Head Light Housing and Buckets come out like this: Note-Gas Filler Cap housing Hood Hinges Note-The color seems to vary depending on the lighting. This effect was purposely done to match the Chromate plating as possible. The cost of this Powder Coating of these parts: Eastwood Powder Coating Gun and accessories was$150 , SuperChrome powder was $25, Translucent Gold Powder was $27. Kwik Stripper was $12.00, 2500watt Infared light(used) costs $50 =$264 Total I intend on power coating a lot more parts( like crossmember,lower control arms, coil springs, etc. I would recommend powder coating for any restoration project.
  7. Finished the replacement aluminum glove compartment box. Rear side of box Now I went to something that I always wanted to do--Powder Coating. So I ordered a Eastwood Powder Coating kit for $100. A cardboard box was used for the powder spraying booth. Note there is metal rod in the box to hold parts to be coated and act as the grounding for the unit. The system is low maintenance. Just blow air to clean the gun and bottle. The booth can be vacuumed after every color coating. Spraying the powder has a low learning curve. I would recommend this book before actual powder coating as it has many helpful tips. Pic of the before and after powder coating of the head light buckets. Note-the plastic headlight adjusting screw inserts must be removed otherwise the oven will melt them. The headlight bucket in my Toaster Oven for 20 minutes at 400 degrees. After baking, the bucket was moved back to the spray booth to cool off. Note-The is only the Base Coating and must be followed with a Top Coat to provide the right color. Pic of the headlight assemblies after Base Coating. Picture of hood hinge before spray blasting and powder coating. Hood hinges after Base Powder Coating. Note- The original hinge were zinc plated then yellow chromate dipped. Chromate is a very toxic chemical and hard to dispose of. The exact color will be impossible to duplicate with powder coating because it does not allow mixing of powders. However, powder coating of the headlight retaining rings closely resembles chrome plating. Now. I have to wait till the TOP COAT Powders to arrive from the Mainland so I can try to match the Chromate process. Wish me Luck!
  8. I was going to use Fiberglass Resin over the foam but decided to use Epoxy Resin instead. The reason being fiberglass resin would not adhere the dash plastic material. Also, Epoxy Resin is much stronger than Fiberglass resin View of Left side of dash with Epoxy Resin applied on foam. Same section after Body Filler finish sanded. Bottom view of dash after finish filler sanding. Note-Blending areas between replacement foam section and original dash are smooth. Center view of dash bottom after finish filler sanding. Bottom view of Right side of dash. All of the repaired areas were next epoxy primed. Black Trim/Bumper paint and Sem Products Texture Coatings were both used to finish paint the dash. The entire dashboard were painted with the Black Trim paint to create a even color base. Then the Texture Coating was utilized to create a textured surface for the repaired areas. This texture can be controlled by adjusting spraying distance and speed of spraying. After allowing the paint to cure overnight. I sanded the whole dash with 3M Fine Grit Gray Fiber pads, The texture is also controlled by the amount of material sanded off to match the original texture as possible. This is a picture of the original dash cover for those of you who came to this post late. The whole dashboard was in about 10 separate pieces. View of the repaired dashboard after a month of work. Top View of Finished Dash Board. Left Front View Cnter View with Center Section and Glove Compartment installed Right Front View Closeup View of Glove Compartment Emblem I decided the Emblem needed more "POP" so I brushed painted the Emblem with 3 colors-Red, Blue and Silver. Note-The instrument Gauges(Speedometer, Tach and cluster gauges were not installed. I have not decided on what brand of gauges to use yet. Am thinking about Speed Hut but still not sure. I left a lot of space around the gauges in case I decide on larger diameter gauges. The total cost of materials is Motorsport Full Dash Cap-$120, 5 can 0f Loctite Foam-$25, one pint of Rigid Foam/Harder-$30, Black Trim Paint-$12 and Sem Texture Coating-$35=$222.00. How is the Replacement Dash Covers from Vantage Dash? If their price is still about $800 and quality is decent, it is worth the price. I still have to finish the glove compartment box then off to the next challenge-Powder Coating. .
  9. Thanks for the kind words. I found that an old hacksaw blade with fine teeth worked well at cutting the excess foam away. Note-The smooth cut of the foam. This is my Rubbish Box for just this dash board project, After trimming the excess foam from the front edge of the dash, the molding is installed to check the alignment. The bottom mold on the glove box was not strong enough to hold the foam so I made a stronger design. The wooden block added the extra support to the mold, Vise grips were used to hold the mold to the dash while welding. The Center dash panel was test fitted into the dash, Mold #5 was created to replace the foam section below the glove compartment. After removal from mold and trimmed. Note-Its thinness and dfferent thickness of both longsides. Bottom view of the glove compartment side of dash. Center bottom view of the dash. Bottom view of the Speedometer side of the dash. Front view of Speedometer side of dash While waiting for the form to cure, I constructed a replacement glove compartment box out .060 aluminum sheet; side view front view The replacement Glove Box was not replicated as I felt aluminum would better suited than a cardboard one. The sides of the box have not been installed as I am planning to line a gray Velour material on the inside of the box. Putting the fabric first without the sides on will make the job easier. All of the exterior foam sections will probably be coated with Fiberglass Finishing Resin to give them more strength. Then, the dash will painted with a textured Dash Black paint so the glove compartment door will match the rest of the dash board.
  10. Four 1/4" holes were drilled in the dash to provide inspection ports in areas to check on foam movement. The lower hole shows the foam coming through the dash. The foam temperature was also monitored with a Infrared thermometer. Inside section being epoxied together using vise grips. Locktite Tite Foam is a foam which expands a lot and should work perfectly for this project. Make sure to wear gloves and safety googles. This stuff is really sticky!! So keep lacquer thinner or acetone nearby to clean up with. The flexible nozzle helps to get into confined areas. Purchased from Home Depot for about $5 a can. There are several places to check dash cap alignment before foaming. Check gap and height alignment here. Another point of alignment is the glove compartment lock hole. Crumbled paper wrapped with black plastic sheeting was used to plugged gauges, speedometer and tach openings. Now the foaming can begin. I started with the top area of the dash as it is the most visible and the most likely to deform. Note-Allow time for foam to expand before spraying more. It will expand more than you expect especially this Locktite Tite Foam. Looks like a snow blizzard. Top view of dash Have to wait 24 hours for the foam to fully cure before cutting away. Probably be using a Dremel, utility knife and razor blades to cut excess foam all. .
  11. My dashboard was in bad shape as most of its early life( 71 to 83) it was parked outside all the time. This picture shows the dashboard broke into eight pieces when it fell off the work bench. Note-Huge cracks through out the dash board So first thing to do was to sandblast the small amount of corrosion of the frame of the dash. My Speed Blaster does a good blasting job on objects to bigger to fit in my sandblasting cabinet. Motorsport supplied the replacement dash cap for $120 as the old dash foam was so bad it would just crumble in your hands. So I decide to replace the dash foam with new stuff. So I decide to use the Motorsport dash cap and the existing dash frame as a mold. Then new foam would poured or injected into this mold. So now I had to seal off the metal part of the dash to be a part of the mold. Black shipping sheeting was utilized to wrap the dash. 3M General Spray Adhesive would sprayed on the hold the sheeting in place. The biggest problems was the Motorsport replacement dash cap did not cover the lower section of the dash board. Four major molds would have to be created to fill in these areas. Using card board and duct tape were used in this process. The inside of the card board would be covered with the black sheeting to provide easy removal from the mold. There were some of the original dash sections that could be reused. View of the Right lower section of dash This corner section was sectioned off the original dash then epoxied to the replacement cap. The other part of this patch . Center panel mold outside view Note=Black sheeting inside of the mold The outside view of the mold A lot of Duct Tape created a sturdy mold. The left side mold was constructed the same way Note -Bottom of the mold was left open otherwise the foam pressure would distort or damage it. This view shows the mold attached to the replacement dash cap with duct tape. This pic of the Right side lower section of the dash
  12. My dashboard was in bad shape as most of its early life( 71 to 83) it was parked outside all the time. This picture shows the dashboard broke into eight pieces when it fell on the work bench. Note-Huge cracks through out the dash board So first thing to do was to sandblast the small amount of corrosion of the frame of the dash. My Speed Blaster does a good blasting job on objects too big to fit in my sandblasting cabinet. Motorsport supplied the replacement dash cap for $120 but the old dash foam was so bad it would just crumble in your hands. So I decide to replace the dash foam. I decided to use the Motorsport dash cap and the existing dash frame as a mold. Then new foam would poured or injected into this mold. So now I had to seal off the metal part of the dash to be a part of the mold. Black shipping sheeting was utilized to wrap the dash. 3M General Spray Adhesive would sprayed on the frame to hold the sheeting in place. The biggest problem was the Motorsport replacement dash cap did not cover the lower section of the dash board. Four major molds would have to be created to fill in these areas. Using card board and duct tape were used to make the molds. The inside of the card board would be covered with the black sheeting to provide easy removal from the mold. There were some of the original dash sections that could be reused for this purpose View of the Right lower section of dash This corner section was sectioned off the original dash then epoxied to the replacement cap. The other part of this patch . Center panel mold outside view Note=Black sheeting inside of the mold The outside view of the mold A lot of Duct Tape created a sturdy mold. The left side mold was constructed the same way Note -Bottom of the mold was open otherwise the foam pressure would distort or damage it. This view shows the mold attached to the replacement dash cap with duct tape. This pic of the Right side lower section of the dash
  13. While awaiting some parts to come in, I decided to work on the two front headlight buckets. Right bucket is "before cleaning" and left is "after cleaning" The right bucket is "before cleaning" and left one is "after cleaning". This pic shows both head light buckets with light mounting cups. I was thinking of restoring these buckets with zinc chromate( yellowish gold plating) But found the zinc chromate is very toxic and hard to dispose of. So I am thinking of trying using metallic gold powder coating to recreate the coating. Checking to see if I can match the color. I ordered an Eastwood Powder Coating kit but it is on back order till February. So I went to work on the disassembly of the rear suspension. Of coarse, the most difficult part is the removal of the spindle pins. In our tropical climate here, I knew those pins would not slide easily. As I didn't want to spend $100 for the puller + freight, I decided to fabricate one. Went to Home Depot to gather all the parts. First, I migwelded a used wheel lug nut (12mm X1.25) to my 5/8" NC X14" threaded rod for the pulling screw. total view of 14" pulling screw Used a 1" ID steel fence post about 12" with 5/8" steel washer welded to one end of the pipe. aaa Note: the spindle pin shaft is on the top then the threaded pulling shaft then the pipe housing on the bottom. The threaded rod was screwed securely to the threaded end of the spindle pin. The round housing was installed over the tjhreaded screw. Then two additional 5/8" flat washers with grease between them was added to provide slippage under tension( a small bearing can be used too). Then the pulling nut is added. A 1/2 ratchet or 15/16" box wrench can used to turn down the pulling nut. For additional torque, a wrench extender or a long pipe can be utilized. Also, heating with a torch the cast iron area around the spindle locking pin will loose the corrosion if it is really stuck. Another important thing to make removal easier is the use of penetrating oil. After removing the two nuts and washers on both ends of the spindle pin, Place the suspension assembly so the pin is vertical as possible. Soak the top and between all cracks to get the penetrating oil in as possible. I seen mechanics make a cup around the top of spindle to create a reservoir to hold the oil. Leave the oil on as long as possible( even a week if necessary). The more oil that gets in, the easier the job will be. It will take a long time to turn that nut to pull out that 11" spindle pin considering one rotation of the nut probably moves the pin about 1/16" to 1/8" out. It will seem that way. The cost of the parts was about $20.
  14. While I was waiting for some parts to come in, I decided to work on the two front headlight buckets. A view of the back of the buckets. The right bucket is the "before cleaning" and the left is "after the cleaning". The right bucket shows the "Before cleaning" an
  15. View of the front lower bumper panels primed by poly primer. The bigger job was turned out to be the amber turn signal lens. Some of those tiny phillip screws(about 3mm) were rusted and had to be drilled out. Pic of broken lens mounting screws. At first, I used gray JB WELD expoxy to repair those lens mounting plastic studs. Then upon putting the lens cover on the housing, the gray epoxy created dark shallows in the lens. So I removed the gray epoxy and used JB WELD Clear Epoxy was utilized to eliminate this problem. The epoxy was dry to touch in a hour but waited till next day to drill and tap them. Those amber studs were recreated by using plastic straws and masking tape to make a mold for the epoxy. The straws were slit to go around the existing studs. Masking tape was applied tightly to seal and hold the mold while curing. Phillips 4-40 screws was found to be close enough to replace the rusted ones. The finished product
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