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toolman

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toolman last won the day on March 24 2020

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About toolman

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  1. Fuel Venting Hoses- One of the problems of the 240z is the Gas Smell in the interior of the vehicle. Leaking Hatch Weather Stripping,Leaking Tail Light Housing Gaskets, and Leaking Fuel Vapor Hoses. There are Three Different Fuel Vapor Hoses used in the Fuel Tank area. The usual sizes (inside Diameter) are 5/16", 5/16" and 3/4" Neoprene Fuel Hose. Instead for searching for various sizes of Rubber Hose Sealing Grommets, I decided to fabricate my own. These were four for $4. The Local Hardware Store had 1" or 1 1/8" Wooden Chair Leg Tips. First, I
  2. Z DEPOT did refund me for the brake parts that did not fit properly on my car. It took about a month of communicating by email as they don't want to talk on the phone. Hopefully they will return to using the telephone as the Pandemic comes to a end. Toolman
  3. Transmission Cross Member- As always, the first thing to do is to create a card board template of the Transmission Cross Member. Then, the Trial Fitting of the Template. As you can see, there are plenty improvements to do the card board board template. The Transmission Crossmember will have to built with a much "tighter fit" to accommodate the big exhaust pipes (2 1/4" to 3") with sufficient ground clearance too. A 14" Chop Saw was used to cut the 1/4" steel plate. I bought 1/4" x4" x 20 foot steel plate for $67 to save time in
  4. Drive Line Angles Now that I have my Motor Mounts made and LS motor installed, the construction of the Transmission Cross Member could to be done. But first, the measurement of the Drive Line Angles is necessary. This because the Transmission Cross Member will determine the Motor and Transmission Drivetrain Angle #1. If the Crossmember was constructed before checking Drive Line Angles and I needed to adjust Angle #1, it might require making a new Crossmember to change the angle. So checking the Drive Line Angles now and establishing Cross Member height before makes sense.
  5. After couple of days of emails, I am happy to say that ZCAR DEPOT finally realized that there was a fitment problem with their booster. They are working on a solution. If they improve the customer service, I think everyone will be happy. ZCAR DEPOT will also get increased sales.
  6. Has anybody have problems dealing with ZCAR DEPOT? Previously, I have purchased mostly small items and stuff. But recently had a fitment problem with a brake master cylinder from them. I tried to call them at 844-8652473, you get a answering machine which is full so you can not leave a message. The only alternative coarse of action is to email them at sales@zcardepot.com and hope they answer you. Their products are better than others but to me, their customer service is really terrible. If you had problems with them, please comment here so others will know too.
  7. Prelubing the LS3 Motor- I borrowed a Oil Pressurized Tank to prelube my LS3 motor as LS motors can not be easily prelubed like the older 350 motors. The operation is simple-Motor Oil is pressurized in the tank to about 50PSI and fed though the oil gallery plug. On the LS motor, it is located on the Front Left Lower Side. After starting to pressurizing the oil gallery, I rotated the motor about 1/4 turn to allow the oil enter all of the passages. Keep rotating the motora 1/4 turn while checking the amount of oil in the tank to prevent creating air pockets in the oil pa
  8. This is Toolman, I just removed my T56 transmission from a crate LS3 motor last week from under the 240z on jack stands. Jag that Run has their motors mounts. very forward on the LS motors like my mounts( check out my recent posts). I put a floor jack under the rear of the LS oil pan to prevent the motor from smashing the brake lines on the firewall. This engine setback lets very little room for trans removal though. I used long 3/8 extensions with 12mm or 14 mm swivel sockets to loosen trans bolts. I removed the LS intake manifold because the plastic PCV valve was real clo
  9. Sorry about the delay in posting but I ran across an unforeseen problem: my used T56 transmission that I picked up about 15 years ago would not bolt up to my crate LS3. After a lot of research, I found out to correct this problem there were basically Two Methods to convert my LT1 T56 to a LS1 T56 transmission. First and cheapest was shipping the Front Midsection Plate to a Mainland Machine Shop to machine it to accept a LS1 input shaft. The cost would be about $100 plus shipping( To and Back). Also, beside that I would still need a LS input shaft( used about$120) and LS Bell Housing( used
  10. Bottom View of Bell Housing Clearance Left Side Top view Removed Hood Lock Mount to gain more clearance. Right Side Room for Exhaust not bad Front View-Motor Mounts 1/2" Clearance between Balancer
  11. Motor Mounts- Originally I planned to used Dirty Dingo Z LS conversion motor mounts. But after installing on my Dummy LS Block in my car, I decided I wanted more engine setback than they could provide. Also. looked ICT BILLET Mounts So I decided to basically make my own mounts of 1/4" Steel Plate. As you can see, my version is 4" to 5" longer. I knew this was longer than necessary but usually go longer, just in case,, i need extra area to construct AC mounts too. I can always cut them shorter later. On the left bottom sid
  12. Witchboard, If your door adjustment is not the problem, you can try this procedure. The 240Z window door glass frames are rather flimsy. So you might need to bend the top door edge more inward. You accomplish this by: Open the door and stick a 2 x 4 between the lower edge of the door and rocker panel. Now just push the top edge of frame inward. By moving the window frame inward, it will decrease the window gap and hopefully stop the water leakage. Push easily at first and harder if necessary. Also, check the driver's door for sagging. The upper door hinge pin wea
  13. Rear Rocket Bunny Flares Moduicications The Front Lower section of the Rear Quarter Panel Flares was not sufficiently secured down So. I installed one 6MM x 1.0 nutsert to the underside of the rocker panel. Then, made a 16 gauge sheet meta; plate to go over the nutsert. To give this plate additiona; strength, another plate on the exterior of the flare. A hole was drilled through both plates. So you ended up with the flare sandwiched between both plates. Also, a right angle was added the inside edge of the plate so it was against the rocker panel pinch weld.
  14. NEW CAR DOLLY- I constructed a new car dolly to move the body around for engine and transmission installation. I used a lot of materials from "old car dolly". This dolly was about one foot higher off the floor to make working under car easier. Bottom view of Dolly Side view After it was completed, I removed the jack stands and slid the Dolly in. WIRING HARNESS- The original wiring was in bad shape. The tape was starting to unwind and was covered with Rustprooting from in the quarter panels. What a mess!
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