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toolman

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toolman last won the day on March 24

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  1. I had planned to work on installing the front suspension parts on my Z but I discovered that my supply of Gold powder was almost gone. So while I waited for the Gold Powder to arrive, I decided to finishing cutting the Right Front fender for the Rocket Bunny Flares. Like the Rear Flares, I made a Template of the already completed Left Front Fender. Note- I use almost all the fender edges( top, back, front and bottom) to create the template. The more reference points that you use, the more accurate the template will be. Side view of template Put template on the Right fender then Transfer the trim lines using a Black Marker pen. A Tin Snips was used to trim the fender. It was used as cutting thin metal like the front fender, vibrates a lot and making it hard to control. Note- make sure to grind all trimmed edges to prevent future sheet metal cracks. Next thing to do was to clean all of the Front Suspension parts in preparation for painting or powder coating. The rear stub axles were prepped at the same time to conserve paint materials. All the parts were first cleaned with cup wire brush on a 4 1/2 electric grinder to remove the heavy grease, dirt and paint. Then a Heavy Grease Removal soap ( was used straight without dilution) was used. First, with the parts cleaning brush then with a air solvent gun shooting the degreaser( now diluted) to get those hard to get to areas. Blasting away Stub axles after paining with Black Polyurethane paint. Note- the rubber joint boots were masked off otherwise the axles would have been disassembled to remover them. The other suspension parts after Polyurethane Painting. Before Powder Coating After Powder coating A flange bolt powder coated Front crossmember mounted Note- new Camber adjusting bolts were installed. Front to rear view of Front Suspension. Note -The Powder coated parts gives a nice contrast with Gloss Black suspension parts. Side view of the Right Side Suspension It took a lot of cleaning, grinding, painting and powder coating but I think it was worth it. Next, installing the Wheel/Tire Fitment Tool on the Front Suspension to check it out, is next.
  2. Sorry for the delayed reply. My 87 HONDA TRX350 ATV transmission shifter was jammed in gear. As it required me to split the outer left and right cases, the repair took two days to complete. It had to be repaired as it occupies the garage opposite of the 240z and there would be no space to work. This Front Loader Conversion to my Honda ATV was done before I started the 240Z restromod. I scratch built on a 87 HONDA TRX350 ALL WHEEL DRIVE ATV IN about a year ago. It can lift 400lbs in the loader bucket and has a 30 gallon water tank in the rear for ballast. The conversion was made to be Bolt On Accessory and can be removed in about 30 minutes. Now back to the Z Project. All Four of the Flares were painted inside and out with Polyurethane Primer. Had problems removing silicone from the mold release on the flares. Had to use Wax and Grease Remover and HD Water base soap several times to get the silicone off. Due the Windy conditions, I had to paint the parts in garage so had the cover the 240z with Plastic Sheeting to prevent overspray. The Plastic Sheeting can be gotten from automotive paint suppliers. Wheel Fitment Tool Finally get to use the Wheel Fitment Tool that was made coupe of months ago. This was the closest size tire that I could find to use-225x 45x 18. The wheel that I will be simulating is Rota RKR 17 x 9 1/2 with 20mm negative offset. As the sample tire is not large enough, it will be used with the majority of the tire will be facing outward to check fitment. As I running lowered coilovers, the inner clearance with strut is not a problem. First, install the Fitment tool with two lower legs set to 18 " diameter and third leg retracted. Now, adjust the two lower legs tire width adjustors to fit securely. Now, Adjust the upper third leg to obtain the 18"diameter and adjust the tire width adjusters for a snug fit. The only wheel that I found that had specifications came close was ROTA RKR 17 x 9.5 with -20MM offset. I put its specifications on a wooden paint mixing stick. Remember that this tire is only 18" so the 9 1/2 tire will stick more inward. This stick show the wheel offset. The "C" line indicates the center line of the Rota wheel. The inner end of the stick indicates the width of a 274/45 tire. Front tire clearance shown Front to rear view Side View of the Wheel/ Tire Fitment Tool on the car. As the car is on a dolly and there is almost no weight in the car, something had to be done to set Ride Height. So I removed the upper strut spring section to allow upward movement of the suspension. I set the ride height setting the center of the wheel hub to the lower body line of the car. From most pics of street driven lowered 240z cars, the center of the rear hubs were in line with the body line. This is not perfect way but I think it is close enough to demonstrate ride height until I can actually load the suspension after the complete swap. For those of you, that wanted more tire fitment information, I bent a 1/8" wire shaped to match the tire cross section that you wanted to check. In this case, a 274 x45 tire cross section was created and bolted to one of the wheel legs. . You just rotate the simulated tire cross section to check any clearance issues with body and strut. Check Front Clearance of the flare. This rear view demonstrates what a 274 tire would look look like. Remember the 275 tire would extend to the end of the stick or about a inch more inward. The next thing to do is to put the Tire/Wheel Fitment Tool on the front suspension and see what tire/wheel combination could work on there.
  3. Rear Suspension Overhaul: A Threaded Steel Rod with nuts and assorted washers were used to install rear control arm outer bushings. This method was used because although slow, it has less chance of damaging the steel metal bushing housing on these control arms. Ordered ZDepot 50mm extended wheel studs and Muteki extra long wheel lug nuts from EBAY. They maybe necessary to gain proper wheel fitment later. The old wheels studs were removed by hammering them into the large metal tube. Hub parts were powdered coated. Lisle Tools Wheel Stud Installer only requires a 1/2 impact gun and lug socket to install the new wheel studs. The Hub Outer Bearing was pressed on the hub. The Outer Hub bearing was then packed with grease. The whole assembly was pressed into the strut housing. Now, by looking into the inner bearing bore-check the two casting cutouts to determine if the bearing is properly seated. After which. the bearing cavity and spacer is packed with grease. I used a paint paddle to spread the grease into the cavity. The Inner Bearing(non sealed one) is packed with grease. To install this bearing, you can use the old bearing to tap the new one in. Don't worry the old one won't get stuck in. Keep tapping it until a solid feeling and sound occurs for proper seating. id Coat the inside of the seal with grease especially the seal lip. Tap the seal with hammer( can use old bearing also) to about 3/16" below edge. Then, the flange. washer and locking nut are installed. A Dial !/2 Torque Wrench was used to torque the Locking Nut. Specifications call for 180 to 250FT LBS. The reason of the range is the Bearing Preload cannot be determined by Foot Pounds alone. So you slowly torque to 180 ft lbs then check turning torque and keep doing this till everything is right. The Hub Shaft nut turning torque is about 4 inch pounds. The shaft endplay is 0 to .0059. You will need a Dial Indicator to do this but not necessary. So you try to achieve all these parameters to get a accurate bearing preload. 1/2 Dial Torque Wrench A Dial Inch Pound Torque Wrench checking Turning Torque( about 4 inlbs) A Dial Indicator can be utilized to check for 0 to .0059" End Play After completing Bearing Preload, I flattened the Locking Nut tab to prevent the Hub Nut from loosening. Next, the Rear Flares will be attached. The Wheel/Tire Fitment Tool will be installed to check fitment issues.
  4. Richard, Thanks for complement. The cowl area was masked for seam sealer spraying for added protection. Sem Products Sprayable Seam Sealer Using Sem Sealer Spray Gun Central cowl area sprayed right side of cowl Left Rear Wheel Housing interior area sprayed. Seam Sealer was sprayed in between the quarter panel and wheel housing area( the patched area) too. Note-the 3/16" steel rod between the quarter panel and wheel housing can be seen. This view shows seam sealer coverage on the inside of the front of the wheel housing. View of the bottom of the fuel filler area sprayed. Upper area of the fuel filler area. Note-the back side of the fuel filler compartment was also sprayed. The Right wheel housing was sprayed with White Raptor Bedliner after Fusion Seam Sealer was applied over all patch seams. Front view of Right Wheel housing sprayed. Right rear Wheel housing sprayed. Pic of my garage work area. Suspension parts painted with Gloss Black Single Stage Polyurethane Paint on my driveway. R200 differential was also painted. Rear Strut housing painted. Next thing for me to do is replacing bearings and bushings suspension parts and the reassembly begins.
  5. Replicating the Left Rear Wheel Housing to the Right Side. To do this task, will require making a paper template of the newly modified Left Rear Flare opening. A large piece of paper was placed over the L/R flare opening. The major reference lines to be traced are: #1 The Front Edge of the Rear Quarter Panel. #2 is the Wheel Well Opening Edge. The distance between the Top Center of the Wheel Opening to the one of body holes for mounting the Rear Quarter Glass. The measurement will be the height of the flare opening. You may have to darken your Guide Edges if their ink is not visible on the opposite side of the template. Remember you have to use the opposite side the template for the correct orientation. Using the edge guide line and height measurement to align the template on the Right Side. Make sure to securely tape the top edge of the template to the quarter panel as you don't wanted the pattern moving. The Orange Lines in this closup show the areas to must be filled in because overcutting from previous flaring. This provides pattern for the filler panels. Creating the Rear Filler panel. Note- guide lines help to keep filler aligned. The Front Filler Panel being created. Pic of the Inner Wheel housing to Quarter Panel Filler patch Template. To make this Flare Opening a little easier to weld the quarter panel and wheel housingtogether, 3/16" Steel Rod from Home Depot( $13 for 8Ft) was used. The rod would weld between quarter panel and wheel housing filler. It prevents burn through especially with .023 sheet metal. On the Front Side of Quarter Panel (Dog Leg Section), there are some curves in the panel so you must bend the rod to follow the curves. That task is accomplished by holding one end of rod with vise grips and using a torch to soften the 3/16" rod. Then bending the rod until the required shape is obtained. Note-I have used this technique of welding round steel rods around flare opening on many cars. You can use 3/16" to 3/4" steel tubing or even brake lines to outline the tire openings. But solid steel rods don't kink like fuel lines would This method really reinforces the edge and prevents tire damage in case there is contact. For those of you who are tired of getting burnt by hot sparks while welding in confined areas, I would recommend getting this welding gear. The Tight Fitting Welding /Grinder Automatic Darkening Hood Gear. Regular Welding Helmets were never made for tight confined areas. After trying this welding gear at the Sema Show, I ordered one for myself. The Rear Filler Patch mig welded in place. Pic of the Front Wheel Housing patch template. This patch was created using Left and Right Cut Tinsnips. They make cutting curves easy. Front patch after hammering and metal shaping. The area to be filled in. Patch test fitted. Top Wheel Housing Filler patch Rear Wheel Housing Patch Rear Housing Filler patch The Next Thing to do is spray Raptor Bedliner over the inner wheel housing for extra protection. Then Top Coat it with Single Stage Polyurethane paint.
  6. Thank you Nelsonian, Here are additional pics of flaring modifications. After sealing the inner top section of the wheel housing, area was painted with polyurethane paint. Bottom view of wheel well housing after painting. Overall view of rear flaring modifications
  7. Left Front Fender modifications for Greddy Flares. After placing Rocket Bunny flare against the fender then mark the area to be removed with a black marker pen. A Electric shears was used to cut the major removal cuts. Always cut carefully to prevent "over cutting too much". A Hand Nibbler was used in the Finishing Cuts. The Finished Product Rear Wheel Housing Modifications for the Rear Flares- Like the Front flare. the Rear Rocket Bunny Flares are mocked against the existing quarter panel. The Outer edge of the flare is marked with a Black Marker Pen. In my case, I had already removed the original wheel opening edge when I constructed metal flares previously, there was a little less of the quarter panel to remove. Bottom view of the wheel well(looking upward from the ground) As the photos show the gap between the quarter panel and wheel housing was only about 3/4". So I could have just squeeze both panels together and mig welded them together. But I decided to cut an additional 3" higher to give more tire clearance and allow more body drop. Better to do it now instead of later. Side view of additional cutout. But now, the gap between quarter panel and wheel housing increased by about 2 1/2". So fillers had to made to fill these gaps. Patch being mocked up. The Sheetmetal Roller was utilized roll the metal to match the wheel housing. making gap fillers Overall view of the gap fillers An Air Punch/Flanger is used to flange the edges of the fillers to make the filler surface smooth and stronger. Cleco pins and vise grips hold the gap filler plates in place for welding. The front of the Left wheel well housing needed a patch so a paper template was created. Note- the bottom of this patch had to be "rolled over" by making a slit on the bottom then hammer welded the slit closed. The patch started as a flat piece of 20 gauge sheet metal that heated with a torch to soften it. Then was hammered with a Shaping Hammer on a Leather Shot Bag to shape the patch. Additional pounding with a Ball Peen Hammmer. The Patch fitted into place then tack welded in. The inside portion of the wheel well patch was covered with Fusor Seam Sealer. Inside of the wheel housing, EverCoat Epoxy Seam Sealer was applied over all welds and all seams. Polyurethane paint will be spray painted over all of the repaired areas. The inside wheel well areas will also be covered with Urethane BedLiner for additional protection.
  8. Just returned from vacation in Tokyo. While travelling the rural area, I manage a get a picture{not a good one though} of a Japanese Snap On Tool Truck. I think it is only about 12' long box van. Tiny in US standards. Snap On Tools in Japan sell for double of US prices too. However, when I returned home. there was a Big Surprise for me. The Greddy S30 Rocket Bunny Full Body kit was waiting for me. The shipping box was about 18" x 24" x 8 foot long thick card board. It was packed very well also. These kits are only manufactured when you order it. It took 9 months before I received it. But as the pictures show the quality and workmanship was top notch. The Rocket Bunny Kit consists of one- Front Lower Panel, one Front Bumper, two Front Fenders, two-Rear Fender Flares, one Rear Spoiler and bag of Miscellaneous Mounting bolts/ Fender Gap Inserts. I am including detail pic of the individual fiberglass parts so their quality workmanship can be seen. Front view of parts Rear View of Parts Inside of Front Lower Panel( note-the smooth figerglass layout and finishing sanding of the edges.} Backside of Front Fender Inside of Rear Flares Outside view of Front Lower Panel Note-very detailed with Turn Signal mounting holes. Exterior view- smooth and detailed Inside view 0f Front Bumper Note- Front Bumper Mounting insert Top View-Front Bumper Rear View-Rear Spoiler Front view-Rear Spoiler The real test of a good body kit is its fitment. Those cheap Chinese kits usually require a lot of manhours to make them to look decent. Front bumper and lower front panel Left front Flare Right Front flare Left rear flare(note separate door flare Side view of Rocket Bunny Body kit Front view of Rocket Bunny Kit The Front Flares only require trimming the fender to make it work. The rear flares will require more manhours to fill the gap between the inner and outer quarter panels and the outer flare.
  9. The original door glass molding was in terribly shape. First thing to do was removing the old weather stripping. The old weather stripping is attached using staples. The best way to remove the molding is to twist the weather stripping with pliers to continue to "roll up" the weather stripping. If the stainless has scratches or small dents, repair them first. Then, sand with 400 grit sand paper then slowly progress to 1000 grit. Then, use a cloth buffing wheel prepared with Stainless Steel Polishing Rouge to get it to look like new. I tried using pop rivets to hold the weather stripping on the molding but the rivet head protruded too far inward. Instead, 3M spray adhesive was applied to under the weather tripping and on to the molding surface. After waiting 30 minute for adhesive to dry, the weather stripping was installed on the molding. Cross section view of the weather stripping glued on the molding. polished molding and new weather stripping. Molding installed on door Used Chrysler Christmas Tree clips(from Ebay} to hold lower fender flap.
  10. A problem occurred with the weather stripping that was glued to the rear inner fender deflectors. The adhesive was strong enough to hold the weather stripping on. The solution was to use "T" type weather stripping clips( from Chysler) to do the job. Got them from Ebay. 3/16" holes were drilled into the deflector plate. A small scissors was used to create a "Diamond" shaped hole in the weather stripping above the corresponding hole. Twist the "T" clips into the hole In the weather stripping. Push the "T" clip completely into the mounting hole. Pic of the "T" clip fully installed. The Lower fender flap was installed using two "Christmas Tree" type retainers(from Ebay). The retainers replace screws which tend to fall out.
  11. PapaSmurf, Try going to CR Laurence website. They are one of the largest glass and glazing product supplier in the USA. Go to their Automotive Section then to Search-type in Sun Roofs. They have all the parts(even the replacement glass). I did not see exact size that you were looking for (33 1/2" X 14") But they had 35" X 15" gaskets so you would have cut 1 1/2" off. That is, if the cross section of the gasket was similar. If it is similar, cut the gasket a little larger( 1/4") so if it shrinks, it would not leak. Also, put the gap of the gasket in the rear of the sunroof to help eliminate wind forcing water in as you drive at high speed. I hope this information helps. Toolman
  12. Finishing under the front fenders Decided to make the upper front fender splash deflectors. Bought garage door bottom edge weather stripping from Home Depot for $12. Used a knife to remove both vertical edges to end up with a flat rubber strip. I bent strips of 2" wide sheet metal to create a "S" shaped clip to hold the deflector on the fender support. As I was making the clips, I could adjust the holding tension of the clips by adjusting their gaps. Fender upper side deflector installed. Closeup view of clips Note- The clips edges are bent up slightly to prevent sharp edge from cutting the rubber deflector. I ordered a set of Dimple Dies consisting of sizes from 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" and 1". Using these dies make flat sheet metal a lot stronger and looks "real cool" too. The 240z uses this type of metal forming on its inside rocker panels ,strut supports,etc. First, thing to do, is drill a pilot hole in the sheet metal. In this case, the 1/2" Dimple die requires 5/16" pilot hole. Next, assemble the Cutter blade and bottom die with the 10MM head bolt. As you tighten the bolt, the Cutter blade also turns and cuts a hole into the sheet metal. Continue to tighten the bolt until the Cutter cuts through the sheet metal. Once, the 1/2" hole is made, you reassemble the forming die with the bottom die. Tighten down the Forming Die until it is flush with the surface of the sheet metal. Disassemble the tool and inspect the Dimple Form. If it's not formed enough, reassemble the die and tighten it down more. Bottom View Side View of the finished !/2" Dimple. I will probably use the Dimple Dies to create some support brackets in the interior and maybe construct a Triangular Engine Compartment Support with them.
  13. Ebay has a lot of portable China Spray booths that run from $1000 to $2000. Most are a little more than inflatable bounce things. The one at the SEMA is manufactured in Texas by Mobile Environmental Solutions. Single booth 23' x15' was $9995.00 and twin booth 23' x 48' was $19995. They seem to be made of material similar to those auto paint shop curtains that divide up shop areas. According to them, the booth is made of materials that pass NFPA (National Fire Protection Association)701 test methods 1 &2. TV's Garage Squad show is shown using their booths. But I would check with your local fire department first before purchasing one.
  14. That was the price that they quoted me. The major problems with this portable spray booth is it is made out plastic and it does not have a fire suppression system. Most local fire departments would not allow such spray booths to be used. If some one was caught inside in one that caught fire, they would be trapped under a collapsing structure.
  15. Just returned from the Sema Show 2019. The Sema Show gets bigger and bigger every year. This 240z took part in the Optima Ultimate Street Car event. It had a Webber carbs and slightly modified suspension. Early Datsun Roadster with a Honda twin cam motor conversion with fender flares. Four passenger dune buggy A 240Z racer with carbon fiber body parts. Powered with a Chevy LS motor. With this kit, you can pull dents without grinding your paint -Glue Dent Repair Kit for $600. Water jet Cutting Machine-Note the cutout samples on the table. The very popular John Force 300mph Funny Car I had Lunch at one of the many Sema Food Trucks. the long line of customers Spicy Ribeye steak with rice for $12. Ymmmm! 1970 replica of Pete Brock's Datsun 510 The spec sheet of the 510. Harbor Freight introduced their new tool line. Their lifetime ICON tool box costs $10,000 but remember Harbor Freight usually has 20% discount coupons at their stores. The box was very well made and about half the price of a Snap On similar one. Also had ratchets,sockets, wrenches,etc. Their line of tool carts. Their MIG and TIG welders were low priced too. Their Full Function Scanner with Blue Tooth was only $999 perfect of the Do It Yourselfer. Floor jacks and jack stands Beautiful Old Datsun Roaster With a late model Nissan Twin Cam motor. Mobile Spray Paint Booth Had fresh air intake and exhaust filter system for $20,000 for average size booth, A neat Rat Rod '59 Chevy El Camino with supercharged motor Super Low!! Chopped and Shortened This booth has all sorts of Illuminated Car Signs. Toyota Nascar race car 2020 Toyota Supra 370Z with carbon fiber parts NISSAN NISMO Skyline All Wheel Drive Front view Full Functional Race Car Simulator at Supra booth Beautiful Honda Z50 Mini Bike Another Honda 50cc Monkey bike A Wild 65 Ford Van with supercharged motor. Supercharged motor with long headers Old Honda S80 with flares JooTool is a specialized small polisher for restoring small car parts. Also, sharpens knives. 3M provides various grinding, sanding and polishing discs for this machine. Outside the halls, more booths and cars This van had Four Wheel Track drive so it could go almost everywhere. Robot sanding machine made by PRO SPOT. Even had vacuum system to catch the bondo dust. Plastic welding machine with Nitrogen gas to create strong plastic welds plastic welding made by urethane Supply. more cars & people Ford Mustang one wild ride with tire burning etc. More trucks Monster trucks,too Its motor and suspension huge too. Hurst Hemi under Glass Barracuda was there too. Skelton car its supercharged motor High and Might truck 4 x 4 James Dean Replica Porsche covertible Hoogan Pit area and Burn Yard Hoogan put on a Wild Tire Burnout Show but I missed it as I thought it was over. When I was on the top of the Monorail Platform, the Burn Out Show happened. But if you want to see the Show go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NAzAI8pxyLs Hoogan guys did a preshow walk through and did crazy Burnouts and Drifting there!!!! Now, Back to working on my 240Z
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