Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


toolman last won the day on November 21 2019

toolman had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About toolman

  • Rank
    Always Here

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thank you Nelsonian, Here are additional pics of flaring modifications. After sealing the inner top section of the wheel housing, area was painted with polyurethane paint. Bottom view of wheel well housing after painting. Overall view of rear flaring modifications
  2. Left Front Fender modifications for Greddy Flares. After placing Rocket Bunny flare against the fender then mark the area to be removed with a black marker pen. A Electric shears was used to cut the major removal cuts. Always cut carefully to prevent "over cutting too much". A Hand Nibbler was used in the Finishing Cuts. The Finished Product Rear Wheel Housing Modifications for the Rear Flares- Like the Front flare. the Rear Rocket Bunny Flares are mocked against the existing quarter panel. The Outer edge of the flare is marked with a Black Marker Pen. In my case, I had already removed the original wheel opening edge when I constructed metal flares previously, there was a little less of the quarter panel to remove. Bottom view of the wheel well(looking upward from the ground) As the photos show the gap between the quarter panel and wheel housing was only about 3/4". So I could have just squeeze both panels together and mig welded them together. But I decided to cut an additional 3" higher to give more tire clearance and allow more body drop. Better to do it now instead of later. Side view of additional cutout. But now, the gap between quarter panel and wheel housing increased by about 2 1/2". So fillers had to made to fill these gaps. Patch being mocked up. The Sheetmetal Roller was utilized roll the metal to match the wheel housing. making gap fillers Overall view of the gap fillers An Air Punch/Flanger is used to flange the edges of the fillers to make the filler surface smooth and stronger. Cleco pins and vise grips hold the gap filler plates in place for welding. The front of the Left wheel well housing needed a patch so a paper template was created. Note- the bottom of this patch had to be "rolled over" by making a slit on the bottom then hammer welded the slit closed. The patch started as a flat piece of 20 gauge sheet metal that heated with a torch to soften it. Then was hammered with a Shaping Hammer on a Leather Shot Bag to shape the patch. Additional pounding with a Ball Peen Hammmer. The Patch fitted into place then tack welded in. The inside portion of the wheel well patch was covered with Fusor Seam Sealer. Inside of the wheel housing, EverCoat Epoxy Seam Sealer was applied over all welds and all seams. Polyurethane paint will be spray painted over all of the repaired areas. The inside wheel well areas will also be covered with Urethane BedLiner for additional protection.
  3. Just returned from vacation in Tokyo. While travelling the rural area, I manage a get a picture{not a good one though} of a Japanese Snap On Tool Truck. I think it is only about 12' long box van. Tiny in US standards. Snap On Tools in Japan sell for double of US prices too. However, when I returned home. there was a Big Surprise for me. The Greddy S30 Rocket Bunny Full Body kit was waiting for me. The shipping box was about 18" x 24" x 8 foot long thick card board. It was packed very well also. These kits are only manufactured when you order it. It took 9 months before I received it. But as the pictures show the quality and workmanship was top notch. The Rocket Bunny Kit consists of one- Front Lower Panel, one Front Bumper, two Front Fenders, two-Rear Fender Flares, one Rear Spoiler and bag of Miscellaneous Mounting bolts/ Fender Gap Inserts. I am including detail pic of the individual fiberglass parts so their quality workmanship can be seen. Front view of parts Rear View of Parts Inside of Front Lower Panel( note-the smooth figerglass layout and finishing sanding of the edges.} Backside of Front Fender Inside of Rear Flares Outside view of Front Lower Panel Note-very detailed with Turn Signal mounting holes. Exterior view- smooth and detailed Inside view 0f Front Bumper Note- Front Bumper Mounting insert Top View-Front Bumper Rear View-Rear Spoiler Front view-Rear Spoiler The real test of a good body kit is its fitment. Those cheap Chinese kits usually require a lot of manhours to make them to look decent. Front bumper and lower front panel Left front Flare Right Front flare Left rear flare(note separate door flare Side view of Rocket Bunny Body kit Front view of Rocket Bunny Kit The Front Flares only require trimming the fender to make it work. The rear flares will require more manhours to fill the gap between the inner and outer quarter panels and the outer flare.
  4. The original door glass molding was in terribly shape. First thing to do was removing the old weather stripping. The old weather stripping is attached using staples. The best way to remove the molding is to twist the weather stripping with pliers to continue to "roll up" the weather stripping. If the stainless has scratches or small dents, repair them first. Then, sand with 400 grit sand paper then slowly progress to 1000 grit. Then, use a cloth buffing wheel prepared with Stainless Steel Polishing Rouge to get it to look like new. I tried using pop rivets to hold the weather stripping on the molding but the rivet head protruded too far inward. Instead, 3M spray adhesive was applied to under the weather tripping and on to the molding surface. After waiting 30 minute for adhesive to dry, the weather stripping was installed on the molding. Cross section view of the weather stripping glued on the molding. polished molding and new weather stripping. Molding installed on door Used Chrysler Christmas Tree clips(from Ebay} to hold lower fender flap.
  5. A problem occurred with the weather stripping that was glued to the rear inner fender deflectors. The adhesive was strong enough to hold the weather stripping on. The solution was to use "T" type weather stripping clips( from Chysler) to do the job. Got them from Ebay. 3/16" holes were drilled into the deflector plate. A small scissors was used to create a "Diamond" shaped hole in the weather stripping above the corresponding hole. Twist the "T" clips into the hole In the weather stripping. Push the "T" clip completely into the mounting hole. Pic of the "T" clip fully installed. The Lower fender flap was installed using two "Christmas Tree" type retainers(from Ebay). The retainers replace screws which tend to fall out.
  6. PapaSmurf, Try going to CR Laurence website. They are one of the largest glass and glazing product supplier in the USA. Go to their Automotive Section then to Search-type in Sun Roofs. They have all the parts(even the replacement glass). I did not see exact size that you were looking for (33 1/2" X 14") But they had 35" X 15" gaskets so you would have cut 1 1/2" off. That is, if the cross section of the gasket was similar. If it is similar, cut the gasket a little larger( 1/4") so if it shrinks, it would not leak. Also, put the gap of the gasket in the rear of the sunroof to help eliminate wind forcing water in as you drive at high speed. I hope this information helps. Toolman
  7. Finishing under the front fenders Decided to make the upper front fender splash deflectors. Bought garage door bottom edge weather stripping from Home Depot for $12. Used a knife to remove both vertical edges to end up with a flat rubber strip. I bent strips of 2" wide sheet metal to create a "S" shaped clip to hold the deflector on the fender support. As I was making the clips, I could adjust the holding tension of the clips by adjusting their gaps. Fender upper side deflector installed. Closeup view of clips Note- The clips edges are bent up slightly to prevent sharp edge from cutting the rubber deflector. I ordered a set of Dimple Dies consisting of sizes from 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" and 1". Using these dies make flat sheet metal a lot stronger and looks "real cool" too. The 240z uses this type of metal forming on its inside rocker panels ,strut supports,etc. First, thing to do, is drill a pilot hole in the sheet metal. In this case, the 1/2" Dimple die requires 5/16" pilot hole. Next, assemble the Cutter blade and bottom die with the 10MM head bolt. As you tighten the bolt, the Cutter blade also turns and cuts a hole into the sheet metal. Continue to tighten the bolt until the Cutter cuts through the sheet metal. Once, the 1/2" hole is made, you reassemble the forming die with the bottom die. Tighten down the Forming Die until it is flush with the surface of the sheet metal. Disassemble the tool and inspect the Dimple Form. If it's not formed enough, reassemble the die and tighten it down more. Bottom View Side View of the finished !/2" Dimple. I will probably use the Dimple Dies to create some support brackets in the interior and maybe construct a Triangular Engine Compartment Support with them.
  8. Ebay has a lot of portable China Spray booths that run from $1000 to $2000. Most are a little more than inflatable bounce things. The one at the SEMA is manufactured in Texas by Mobile Environmental Solutions. Single booth 23' x15' was $9995.00 and twin booth 23' x 48' was $19995. They seem to be made of material similar to those auto paint shop curtains that divide up shop areas. According to them, the booth is made of materials that pass NFPA (National Fire Protection Association)701 test methods 1 &2. TV's Garage Squad show is shown using their booths. But I would check with your local fire department first before purchasing one.
  9. That was the price that they quoted me. The major problems with this portable spray booth is it is made out plastic and it does not have a fire suppression system. Most local fire departments would not allow such spray booths to be used. If some one was caught inside in one that caught fire, they would be trapped under a collapsing structure.
  10. Just returned from the Sema Show 2019. The Sema Show gets bigger and bigger every year. This 240z took part in the Optima Ultimate Street Car event. It had a Webber carbs and slightly modified suspension. Early Datsun Roadster with a Honda twin cam motor conversion with fender flares. Four passenger dune buggy A 240Z racer with carbon fiber body parts. Powered with a Chevy LS motor. With this kit, you can pull dents without grinding your paint -Glue Dent Repair Kit for $600. Water jet Cutting Machine-Note the cutout samples on the table. The very popular John Force 300mph Funny Car I had Lunch at one of the many Sema Food Trucks. the long line of customers Spicy Ribeye steak with rice for $12. Ymmmm! 1970 replica of Pete Brock's Datsun 510 The spec sheet of the 510. Harbor Freight introduced their new tool line. Their lifetime ICON tool box costs $10,000 but remember Harbor Freight usually has 20% discount coupons at their stores. The box was very well made and about half the price of a Snap On similar one. Also had ratchets,sockets, wrenches,etc. Their line of tool carts. Their MIG and TIG welders were low priced too. Their Full Function Scanner with Blue Tooth was only $999 perfect of the Do It Yourselfer. Floor jacks and jack stands Beautiful Old Datsun Roaster With a late model Nissan Twin Cam motor. Mobile Spray Paint Booth Had fresh air intake and exhaust filter system for $20,000 for average size booth, A neat Rat Rod '59 Chevy El Camino with supercharged motor Super Low!! Chopped and Shortened This booth has all sorts of Illuminated Car Signs. Toyota Nascar race car 2020 Toyota Supra 370Z with carbon fiber parts NISSAN NISMO Skyline All Wheel Drive Front view Full Functional Race Car Simulator at Supra booth Beautiful Honda Z50 Mini Bike Another Honda 50cc Monkey bike A Wild 65 Ford Van with supercharged motor. Supercharged motor with long headers Old Honda S80 with flares JooTool is a specialized small polisher for restoring small car parts. Also, sharpens knives. 3M provides various grinding, sanding and polishing discs for this machine. Outside the halls, more booths and cars This van had Four Wheel Track drive so it could go almost everywhere. Robot sanding machine made by PRO SPOT. Even had vacuum system to catch the bondo dust. Plastic welding machine with Nitrogen gas to create strong plastic welds plastic welding made by urethane Supply. more cars & people Ford Mustang one wild ride with tire burning etc. More trucks Monster trucks,too Its motor and suspension huge too. Hurst Hemi under Glass Barracuda was there too. Skelton car its supercharged motor High and Might truck 4 x 4 James Dean Replica Porsche covertible Hoogan Pit area and Burn Yard Hoogan put on a Wild Tire Burnout Show but I missed it as I thought it was over. When I was on the top of the Monorail Platform, the Burn Out Show happened. But if you want to see the Show go to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NAzAI8pxyLs Hoogan guys did a preshow walk through and did crazy Burnouts and Drifting there!!!! Now, Back to working on my 240Z
  11. Back home to get working on the Z. From Epoxy Primer to Body Filler. Body Filler used to cover minor imperfections. Sanding Body Filler Then paining Polyurethane Primer Sealer on top of that bodywork. Not to forget the inside of the front fenders, the sealing of them was next thing to do. The wheel well deflector plate stripped and painted. I decided to use rubber weather stripping. I found 3M "D" shaped weather stripping on Ebay for $13 for 8 feet. The hollow inside made very soft and a good weather stripping for the wheel well. front view back view Previously I had planned to use Dynamat or similar foil type of insulation for the floor and roof. However, I decided to use Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation paint. It can lower the interior temperature 20 to 30 degrees. One gallon costs $100 on Amazon. They also sell sound insulation paint(costs $100 gal) but it must be applied first(before heat insulation). Had planned to spray it on with a Schulz under coating gun but the coating was too thick for the gun. So I used rollers and a brush to apply it. A cordless drill was utilized to stir the paint. Use low speed and in Reverse so the particles are not damaged while mixing. Application was done in two .020 coats allowing the first coat to dry to the touch. Curing will take possible a week to completely cure depending on weather conditions. All holes must be masked off to prevent over spray. Areas to be painted are scuff sanded and all threaded holes are plugged. After painting Ceramic Coating was not difficult to apply. Cleanup should be done quickly as the insulation dries relatively fast. Pic of roof coated Pic of seat area Passenger side compartment After the Ceramic Insulation is cured, I will probably top coat it with Polyurethane White Single Stage Paint for added protection.
  12. I just got back from Tokyo. I managed to go Japan's Largest Automotive Store in Japan Autobacs Shinome located near Tokyo Bay. The garage is on the bottom of this three level store. The main store is on the Second floor and has a coffee shop there. the third floor is the high performance stuff. Snap On tools on display in glass cases. Snap On Tools tools sell for twice the US price. That Snap On tiny tool box toy sells for $140!! Snap Tools on display. On the third floor, the high performance parts and accessories were on display. They had the latest GPS., stereo ,DVD, and LED lights. And, of coarse, the garage downstairs could install whatever you purchase. Helmets, gloves and gear. the Black one cost about $5600 USD Steering wheels (Momo one was $300 USD. Racing suspension parts-NHW strut was $1350 USD There was a rear driving simulator that anyone could try for a price. It had loud speakers 3 TV screens and air shocks to give the real.feeling of a race car. I think the price was $50 for 30 minutes. Unfortunately, I found about the simulator too later as I had to get back to Shinjuku before the afternoon rush on the trains. Passengers are really packed like sardines during rush hour!!!!! The store is located near Odiba theme park by Tokyo Bay near Tokyo Disneyland. Front Entrance of the store The Garage Area is Super Clean and well lite. Mechanics even wear white gloves when working. Only High End Wheels no China Stuff here. !/6 scale Skyline motor very detailed. Bicycle and accessories Aisles of assorted stuff There is a large area with only automotive books and magazines next to their coffee shop. Everthing automotive under the Sun is here. Leather jackets Kids $500 electric cars. Kids seats more seats and seat covers $1000 Mavics RC Drones This Skyline motor sells for $300 but is well detailed. wiper blades Pet accessories Snap On floor jacks-the silver one sells for$200(about $100 in US) Can't wait to start back to working on my Z. SEMA SHOW 2019 is less than a month away. Viva Las Vegas!!
  13. The door hinges for both Left and Right sides were top coated with Polyurethane paint. Shop Tip- Removing and Installing a 240Z hood by yourself Place a Plywood on top of the Left and Right fenders. Put hood in the closed position. Put card board or padded mat under plywood to prevent scratching the paint. Raise hood to open position. Loosen all four hood bolts but do not remove. Remove both hood front bolts. Now tilt the rear of the hood downward till the hood contacts the plywood. Then remove the rear hood bolts as the hinge and plywood will support the weight of the hood. The hood can be lifted off from either side of the car. Hood installation will be the reverse procedure. The next thing to do to spraying Raptor Liner in the fender and wheel wells. This Raptor liner was the 2 bottle kit with Liner, hardener and color toner.. This kit costs about $100 including freight on Ebay. Masking the hood to prevent overspray going all over the place. The interior sides of the hood and fenders were sanded with 150 grit sand paper then wipe down with paint prep solution. view of Left side Wheel Well Housing afterspraying. Right side Wheel Well Housing after spraying Liner Right side fender interior view Inside Right Door view Closeup view of the Raptor Liner on Wheel Hosing Inside Right Fender Note- Liner even covers patch area. Left side Wheel Well Housing The Raptor Liner can be applied by hand roller or sprayed. A Schutz gun is most commonly used to apply the liner. HLVP spray gun with 2.0 nozzle can be used if liner is reduced by 20%. This method would provide a smoother finish( not as rough}. After one hour, the liner is dry to touch. It, however. takes a full week to completely cure. I used only one bottle of Raptor Liner so far. The remaining bottle will be used for the rear wheel housing after I finish flare modifications.
  14. PROJECT TIP: I am posting this tip as it may be very helpful to a lot of people. RESCUE BIT is a high speed cutting bit that will cut through broken taps, extractors just about anything. Check the video out at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkIH7DhQJzA In my case, I was tapping out the bolt holes of my struts. Of course, while tapping the last bolt hole, the 6mm x 1.0 tap broke. Pic of the Broken tap This is a picture of a 1/8" RESCUE BIT with cutting edge on both sides. The 1/8" version must be used with a 1/8" adaptor to use it in a 1/4" die grinder. Pic of 1/8 to 1/4" adaptor. Rescue Bits also use to have 1/4" burrs (single and double cut version) too. Now the Rescue Bits can be found on Amazon and Ebay but only here and there. I don 't think the company still exists. I do keep one around for emergencies like this one. After drilling a hole in the center of the tap. I use a small sharp punch to collapse the walls of the tap inward. Here is one the larger pieces of the tap that was removed from the hole. After removing all remains of the tap, I carefully tapped the hole with a new 6 x 1.0mm tap. Success-bolt was threaded in!! It is important to carefully follow the instructions that come with the Rescue Bit. Also. the die grinder must be capable of 25,000 RPM. High speed and the bit design is what allows the Rescue Bit to do what other bits can not do. I hope some of you find this tip helpful. Rescue Bits costs about $60 online.
  15. When the Postman brought a large box for me, I ripped it open immediately-it was my CRX Racing Coil Over Suspension kit. Shorter ones were for the Front and Longer ones for the Rear. The cost was $850 plus $150 for freight. CRX has installation instructions at their online site. Installation is simple. You cut about 2" to 2 1/4" from the bottom of the strut tube then weld the external sleeve to the strut base. Bottom sleeve and coil over strut section. I measured the length of the coil spring to record the spring preload. The lower threaded section allows you set the ride height that you want. Strut disassembly Struts were disassembled and sandblasted to prep for welding. After taping the cutting line, I started the cut by using a hack saw. Then a SAWALL was used to finish the strut sectioning. Sectioning completed The Front Spindles had a casting bump between the tube and spindle casting. I sawed a V cut in it to provide more welding space. The Rear Spindles don't have any casting lump. Welded up spindle All four struts were sent out for powder coating as it is too bulky for my small oven to heat up. All four Spindle Backing Plates needed cleanup to be powder coated. Front Backing Plates after Powder Coating Rear backing plates powder coated Hopefully, the Powder Coating guys won't take too long on the struts so I can put the suspension back together. Trying to decide whether to use Bedlinder(Raptor, etc). Anybody have any comments about Bedliners?
  • Create New...