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toolman last won the day on May 8

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  1. Tools used for undercoat and paint removal The Veteran Day holiday provide me additonal time to work on my car. I tack welded all of the seams in and out of the engine compartment,Strut tower also welded, A 4 1/2 electricgrinder with twisted wire cup brush was used befotre blasting. The interior of the car masked off so the compartment could be media blasted whjile keeping most media inside the car. All open holes in firewall were masked off using duct tape. The windshield area was covered with large pieces of cardboard. Canvas and plastic sheeting covered doors and hatch areas. Face respirator and face shield were used when media blasting. In this case, 80 grit abrasive was utilized. I used a large wet/dry SHOP VAV to recover the media and reuse the media. A wire mesh filtered the recovered media before reusing.. self etching primer applied to prevent corrosion, The 16 gauge plates above the frame railings reinforce the floor panels.
  2. One of the reasons that I went to the SEMA Show 2017 was to check on the latest LS motors. This motor is the LS376/480 the updated version of the LS3. It basically has a cam change. the motor produces 495HP and 473 ft lbs of torque. Perfect for me. .This Chevrolet High Performance manual has all necessary part numbers to build and install their motors in almost any car or truck. It gives even measurements for engine and its accessories(air conditioning,power steering,etc).i choose files...Click to choose files.url
  3. Back to the Build. wire brushed the cowl area but vent must be removed to clean area around vent box. So vent cover was carefully removed.After cleaning , area was primed with self-etching primer to prevent rust before media blasting.Driver side cowl after priming. Vent cover after sand blasting and painting with weld thu primer
  4. IMG_1912.MOV Just returned from the SEMA SHOW in Las Vegas. The ROAD KILL 71 240Z with Mustang 5.0 with Ford truck turbo blowing thu Holley carb. Low budget build but with a lot of fabrication work. IMG_1903.MOV A clean Z car with fender flares E we Bored out motor with Weber carbs Wide flared 240Z car. Someone told me that there was a early Z with a Skyline twin cam motor but I must have missed it. There were hundreds of cars and trucks to see at the show.
  5. First pic is top view of restored battery holder. Second is the bottom view of the holder. The third pic is the battery holder "test fitted". I still have not decided whether to install the holder or a marine type of battery box in the rear of car. The last pic is the firewall after I plugged unnecessary holes.

  7. First picture is the top view of the patch welded in. Second pic shows the bottom view of the patch. I have not decided whether to reinstall the battery holder or relocate it to the rear of the car.
  8. Patch had to be held in place with Cleco clips for welding. Sheet metal screws were also used.
  9. First picture is the completed radiator core support. It is welded to both sides of the front fenders and to the square tubing frame. Picture 2 show the rear of the support. I drill holes in the inside of the front tubing to lighten it and for looks. The third picture shows the front area where the bumpers and hood hinge are located. Spacing of core support and hood hinges are critical to prevent interference of moving parts. Check clearance before welding support in. Next step was to strip the engine compartment and weld up any small unnecessary holes. But I discovered the area under the battery holder was corroded. So the holder was cut out. Photo 4 shows the corrosion. Pic #5 is corroded area is to be cut out. The last pic is the top view of the patch to be installed .
  10. Yes, the ducts in the radiator support are constructed with sheet metal. I followed the basic pattern of the factory panel. Those extra holes will probably used for AC condenser hoses. Larger holes may be necessary if I go to a PRO-CHARGER supercharger for the intercooler. In that case. new grill would be constructed too.
  11. First pic is the "before" of left radiator support. Second is the paper template for replacement section. Third one shows the replacement mocked in. Fourth is of the"before" pics of the right radiator support. Fifth shows the replacement section mocked in. The last photo is the overall view of the radiator support awaiting welding.
  12. While in Tokyo, I found this plastic 240Z model car at a toy store. Fairlady Z is what the Japanese called the 240Z. They came with a twin overhead cam engine. Also some had GT front end nose too. This model car was about $20.
  13. Sorry for the blurred pictures, I didn't realize it until after posting them. Added additional pictures. typical car magazine ads in Japan
  14. Thanks for the support. Sometimes these projects become bigger than anyone can predict. While the ribs were off, I double checked the front area in front the both struts and found the left side was 1" higher than the right. I called my friend who has a 70 240Z to take measurements off his car. I confirmed that the right side was correct and left side was high by 1". Since I didn't have a frame machine handy, I decided to section the left side and raise it 1". See photo 1 welded a 2" sheetmetal strip to reinforce the joined area on the inside, This area will be covered by the new radiator support. Pic 2 show the rib rewelded in and new section above the rib to provide a smooth transition between altered section and old area. Pic 3 show additional sheetmetal strip welded in to reinforce the outer section. This was necessary as this panel has handle the hood hinge and bumper brackets.
  15. Wheeler, Your frame rails look great. Are you going to race the car? I started to do detail work on the engine compartment and decided to work on the radiator support instead. While measuring the areas in front of the radiator-area where the bumper and hood hinge attach to) needed straightening. First picture shows the old radiator support. Second pic is of both areas stripped of paint and cleaned. The third photo has the right side with the reinforcement rib removed to fix under it. Fourth pic had the rib replaced and ready to rewelded on. The fifth photo is the left side with the rib removed and damaged area repaired. Sixth pic show the rib replaced awaiting to be welded back. The vehicle was in an accident before I bought it and the area( crush area) was not repaired as that would require rib removal. Next to be done will the construction of the replacement radiator support.