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HybridZ

Co0ke

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Everything posted by Co0ke

  1. Thanks for the info! I already ordered mine from their site. So I'm paying a little more maybe. But good to know for anyone else looking into these.
  2. Thanks for the info in Australia. I was really close to going over seas to get a set. Kim at Rota USA did email me back stating that 18racing.com is their best distributor and I had already found them through my extensive search. They didn't have the 15s that I wanted but had 16s with the -15 offset and in the gunmetal with polished lip. I decided I may actually like the 16s better. More tire choices and maybe even a better look with a little more room for bigger brakes if I choose to go that route in the future. I've always felt the 17s looked a little too big on the zcars and gets away from the classic look too much but that is just a personal preference. Anyway, for future reference to anyone looking for Rota wheels in the US 18racing.com seems to be the current best way to go.
  3. Hi all, I am starting to think this was a bulk one time deal with Rota as I cannot seem to locate a set of these wheels unless they are gold. I know they were manufactured at one point. I have reached out to Kim at Rota USA, and sent emails to the Canada and UK retailers that Rota lists on their site. I haven't had a reply yet, but this is the first time I've shopped for wheels and maybe someone on here knows something I don't about getting a set of Rotas in the US. Specifically, if I can find the following wheels, my life would be complete.... Rota Grid - V or Grid Classic 15x9 e-15, Gunmetal Grey with Polished lip. I plan to run ZG flares with this set up. Please tell me there is a way to get a hold of them!! I'm willing to ship over seas. Not ready to pay for Te37s. Thanks!
  4. Well, it has been a long time. But I'm back. Since my last post I haven't done much but enjoy driving the 260 for what it was. Plenty of fun and turns heads wherever I go. I have been planning to do much more like: Megasquirt, fender flares, wider wheels, replace all bushings, all the updates need to turn up the boost. Just haven't been able to with job change, lack of funds, life, etc. However, my business is running pretty well these days and with the sale of my house I am free to start working on the Z again. Excited to do it! I just procured Megasquirt! Now to start deleting unnecessary crap off my intake, install all the needed sensors and hook up my intercooler. Right now I'm looking at the following -Megaquirt 2 v3.57 from diyautotune -GM IAT sensor w/ pigtail -using stock CHTS -10' wiring harness from DIYAutotune -Innovate wideband -trigger wheel for 83 distributor from DIYautotune -Rx-7 TPS (my brother has an extra so I will try it for fitment) I have already started ripping stuff off the intake. Going to use the 280zxt one for now then upgrade to I cleaner setup with the intake and fuel rail once I have everything working. Also, since this is my first rodeo with megasquirt and cleaning up my intake I'll be doing things in stages and test/checking as I go so as not to get too far ahead of myself and waste time backtracking to try and figure out where I went wrong.
  5. I'm about purchase MSII - Right now I have a 260z with a 83 L28ET running on the stock ECU. The only upgrades are Walboro 255ph and GM HEI 4-PIN Module. Car runs ok has some idle issues and I want to start turning up the boost. I want to control fuel and spark. Here is what I am thinking of getting MSII V3.0 assembled ($435) -- heard this is better because it doesn't need to be modded to control spark GM Open Element IAT w/ piggy ($22.35) 10' wiring harness ($79.00) TPS - Not sure which to get? 240sx? MAP sensor - not sure which to get? LS-1 Wideband - ebay($150) Pretty sure I can use the 83 dizzy's trigger wheel? Will be using the stock CHTS My final plan is to reach 250whp. Have an intercooler and plan on using manual boost controller. Also need to look into larger fuel lines I believe. I rebuilt, installed and wired up the L28ET myself so that's about the limit to my ECU knowledge at this point. This is the biggest purchase for my car thus far so I want to make sure I'm making a good decision as I read both positive and negative feedback on megasquirt on here. Thank for all your help!
  6. My setup is very similar to this. I like not having to cross over the fan, just cleaner imo. Next will be a wideband and maybe I'll experiment with added one or two more pounds of boost just to see if I can without upgrading my injectors and ECM etc.
  7. Cool thanks, I will of course be turning up the boost once I've taken care of all the safety measures just trying to do my upgrades in such a way that I can still drive the car.
  8. This may be a stupid question but I'm new to boosted engines. If I add an intercooler to my stock l28et (stock ECU, stock injector, no mods for extra fuel, no wideband yet, stock waste gate 7psi) will I need to worry about leaning out? <<---just because i've read it a few times on other forums and need peace of mind. In my mind, this is simply making the already compressed air cooler and more dense and a slightly lower psi because of the lower tempurature, which means less boost in the cylinders. Hence the need for upgrading the fuel system can wait till funds permit. Am I right?
  9. Sorry to hear about the engine trouble, hope you get it sorted. I'm also looking into fender flares and some wider wheels. Which air dam did you get? I really like the looks.
  10. Ok here's a few quick vids. Not the greatest. Will do a ride along soon. My driveshaft was way out of balance as well as my wheels, after fixing those she is such a freaking joy to drive now. Took her around a few twisties yesterday with a big smile on my face. The overwhelming sense of accomplishment, plus the fact that this is the fastest car I've owned and I built it, is just f$&@ing cool. Took the bumpers off, removed all the rubber on the front and collapsed the shocks so it now sits snuggly against the nose, leaving the rear off. Ill remove the bumper shocks from the rear when I feel like dropping the tank....
  11. Got my exhaust system fabled up today! Used 2.5" to get to the tranny tunnel then bumped up to 3" all mandrel bends. The pipe expander did fine on the 2.5" pipes but almost striped the threads trying to expand the 3"ers. So I used a coupler on the last two elbows before the dynomax ultraflow. Video to come soon on the sound:). Super thankful to my awesome neighbor for the use of his expertise, welding skills, and general willingness to help! Pics below are of the new starter, old ones brushes were so worn the shoes ate away at the copper, the boost gauge location, for now, thought I might like it down by my right leg but its too far from a quick glance, and the GM module. Also put in new injector wires, still chasing a misfire....me and the neighbor made a smoke machine to check for a vacuum leak as I'm running out of ideas. Maybe ill show a vid of that as well. Till next time.
  12. Timing was close but I couldn't dial it back below 26 degrees btdc. Moving it one tooth back let me put it at 20 where it should be. That 6 degrees helped a lot when starting the car
  13. Took a drive today and she was sluggish....guessing its because I set the timing back to 19-20.... Gonna re-check it tomorrow definitely had more pop before I moved the distributor back one tooth
  14. Found out my distributor was off a tooth and that was why it felt/sounded like it was firing too early when trying to start. Drove around the neighborhood making tons of noise as I'm still running an open down pipe since it wasn't reliable enough to get to the muffler shop all summer. One thing I noticed was while it was cool for about a minute idle sucked, warm the idle sat at a nice 750, then once hot the idle went to 1100 and stayed there with a little miss .....not sure what explains this but I'm happy it's running
  15. I definitely learned a lot. Was going to go for the z31 ECU and will most likely when I'm ready to turn the boost up. Just trying to get her reliable, still need to fab up my exhaust and mount my boost gauge somewhere. Hope the body work goes well. Much more straight forward then trouble shooting electrical issues
  16. Been awhile since I updated. Cars been on timout due to the frustration its caused me all summer. Couldn't get any help on the electrical forum for my ignition problem. I somehow just lost spark all together and couldn't figure out why. I noticed the green light on the ECU was staying lit while cranking and that didn't seem right. No one in the electrical forums responded when I asked the question why that might be so I figured no one had experience with it. I tested just about every pin and found that the ignition signal pin wasn't reading while cranking. Put in a new GM module and Coil but no luck. Went to the junk yard and got a CAS out of a 92 Maxima, no luck, but green light turns off when cranking. figured something was up and wasn't ready to condem the computer. I did have the key in the on position for a long time right after I installed the new module and thought maybe I fried the coil and/or module. New coil; no luck. New module. BAM spark! Still has a major cold start problem, under the impression its fuel related as my fuel is still bleeding back rather quickly IMO, maybe some air getting in the line. Basically the entire ignition system is new minus the computer. Drove around the block today for a good 20 minutes while the engine was nice and hot and it kept on running! Not a perfect idle but it didn't stutter and die! So a win for now Hopefully this problem is behind me and I can move forward with my build! More to come.
  17. A little background. I recently finished a turbo swap L28 ET into a 260z. Car ran and drove but hasn't been quite right....mostly idling issues. Then cutting out issues now no start, no spark issue. The car basically got harder and harder to start each time but would always start eventually. So just yesterday I went to start it up and nothing. Checked for spark and no spark at the coil. Also noticed the tach didn't move at all (cant remember if it used to) and the green light on the ecu stayed on during cranking(used to shut off during cranking and stay off once started). Got out the FSM and starting checking readings at the ecu pins. Pin 9 (ignition signal), supposed to read battery voltage, had nothing while cranking. Pin 8 (CAS) read 4.95V but couldn't see it pulse because of my cheap multimeter. Pin 17 (CAS) read .2V and would drop to zero when cranking? My first thought was to ignore the low reading on pin 17 since I can't find any info whatsoever on testing the CAS on this car. ....annoying the crap out of me. And to try a new ignition module. Bought an HEI module from autozone and wired it up. No luck exact same problem. My questions are 1. Why would the light stay on on the ECU while cranking? 2. How do I test the CAS? I'm leaning towards the ecu being bad and am just about ready to find a z31 ecu and MAF and quit on the stock system.
  18. OK, here is a video of it running.... I also went ahead and pulled the plugs just to check em again since I hadn't in a few days and all fouled? might be coincidental since I was messing around with the MAF a lot this afternoon ...but not so sure hmmm.
  19. Checked the ECCS plug and got normal readings from the CHTS and the air temp sensor. My plugs aren't fouled either.
  20. Yeah I have a gauge, readings are good at idle and on the gas ...can't remember the exact numbers but its spec. I'm convinced its an electrical issue at this point ....something is getting hot and failing. Tested the MAF and it saw good numbers, cold and hot when the car started acting up. Tested the coil and BINGO! Way off 45 kohms....supposed to be 8.5 -12.5. Luckily I had a spare from the 260, popped it in there and what do ya know? Same exact issue!! Literally no improvement. Didn't have time to check anything else. My guess is ignition module or CAS. If I get a chance I'll take a vid tomorrow.
  21. Found out today that my leak down is normal and I think it is a little slower after installing the new injectors. I think it's safe to assume the fuel system which is all new at this point is not the culprit. My problem remains that heating up is causing now, not only bad idle, but stumbling on the gas too. I barely made it 7 miles to home from work today. The car ran fine for a bit then at 45mph cruising in 5th; a hiccup ....another hiccup... A few more, then stumbling. I can kick the clutch and rev it to win back some decent operation ....but with time it just keeps getting worse. Eventually, the car will stumble almost constantly and revving the engine can barely keep it alive. It's never quite been right but it has slowly gotten worse. Before I broke down I was able to take 30 minute drives through neighborhoods without worrying. Now I'm afraid it will die if I try to go 5 miles. Have the next three days off and I'm determined to find the problem!!
  22. New injectors in....same exact problem . Fuel still bleeds down really quick, still hard to start, still wont idle well and stalls after getting hot. changing the oil today and taking a look at the MAF and maybe the CAS. About the only 2 things that aren't new on the car.
  23. CHTS checks out, but now the car is stalling when its warm...after about 10-15 minutes of running. Ordered some new injectors, I noticed the fuel pressure bleeding off rather quickly after shut off. Still think it may be electrical ...need to take the time to go through the FSM and check all the readings when its hot. I've heard a bad CPS can malfunction when its hot and cause stalling. Still hoping the new injectors fix it
  24. Thanks, I've been driving around, but I'm still not out of the dark. Still idles bad after it warms up, like its flooding. Consequently, I had to pull the O2 sensor out of the old down pipe when I went to install the motorsports down pipe to do my exhaust system. Tested it while it was out and it was bad so I got a new one, thought it might help my running rich issue but no dice. I'm thinking ill check out if my CHTS is working since it runs great until its warmed up. Also, still think I have a leaky injector or 2 since it's still hard to start. like it's flooding.
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