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Found 270 results

  1. This is a build thread to document the progress on a 1977 Datsun 280z 2+2. The previous owner had started stripping the car with intentions of restoring it but it ended up just sitting in a storage container. Before that, the car sat in someone's yard because of a lien against it and eventually a tree fell on the back portion busting out the rear glass and leaving a nice dent. Because the car has been sitting for so long, it has a bit of rust but nothing structural, like the frame rails, is damaged. We've never done any car restoration work before so any pointers would be appreciated. The long term goal is to swap a LS v8 engine (probably a 5.3L or 4.8L), upgrade the suspension and brakes, and have a solid daily drivable Datsun. Below is a list of what we have done to the car already: -Stripped the interior and exterior -removed the sound dampening material with some freeze spray and an air chisel -removed the engine, transmission, and engine bay wiring -misc metal work (cutting out the usual Z rust and welding in patch panels) -coated all internal frame rails and cavities with east-woods internal frame rail coating or POR-15 Here is what we started with. Inspiration / Goals Pulling the engine - relatively easy. When you don't have a load leveler, you just use screw drivers to make sure the chain doesn't slide! Hopefully, the steering rack will be salvageable. Cutting out the rust (floor pans, battery tray, and a big spot in the bumper area) Here's some of the welding / patch panels. We used weld through primer so the the welds won't rust through. Battery Compartment The front nose area - patched on both sides driver's side floorpan (not nearly as bad as passenger side just one patch panel near the seat mount). Passenger floorpan - we fabricated a floorpan that was mainly plug welded in place and also replaced a rusty spot in the trans tunnel. a shot of some POR-15 rust convertor work underneath the cowl panel. That brings the project up to present time, lots of work to do still.
  2. Hello Hybridz Members! Three piece spoiler for Datsun s30 240z 260z 280z Product is made from fiberglass with a flat black primer finish. Hence, spoiler is not a finished product ready for paint. This spoiler has 2 mount holes in center piece and 2 on each individual corner. It also has 2 threaded inserts in center piece and 1 on each individual corner.Quality and fitment are really good, all spoilers are brand new and never installed. some modification might be needed for perfect fitment. Price $280 shipped! - I can provide a discount for a group buy (5 minimum) Item ships from California* Local pick up available Payment: Paypal or cash for local pick up Any questions please feel free to send a PM
  3. Hi HybridZ, I am Allen G, I'm from North Carolina and I have a 78 280z that I thought I would share as an introduction. I bought my car as a bone stock 280z about 8 years ago and I have been working on improving it ever since. The car currently has a stock(ish) RB25DET and the stock RB transmission that came with it, and is being run on an AEM Infinity ECU. The car has a radium dual pot surge tank, n1 oil pump, and baffled oil pan, but I am currently contemplating having the rear head drain improved to cut down on the possibility of having oiling issues these motors are known for. I've got it running through an OS Giken superlock CLSD geared to 3.92 with wolf creek CV axles. The car sits on T3 coil-overs and I currently have 15" rota grids wrapped with Toyo Proxes RA1s, from what I have experienced with the tires thus far I would recommend them highly! I am building the car for road course use, I am not much for the drag racing aspect of motorsports and VIR is a short drive away for me. I recently got the opportunity to test the performance of the vehicle on track at NCCAR here in NC and it went great! I thought I was in love with the car before but now I REALLY want to keep improving both the car and my own skills driving it. I will say I have worked in the car business all my life and I am not totally uninformed, but I am also always learning and I will probably be learning for a long time to come. Check out my car and let me know what you think, it's a pretty decent setup but there are a lot of aspects that I am still trying to perfect. Thanks for reading, I am looking forward to engaging with you and learning from all of you!
  4. Wanted: 240z, 260z, or early model 280z. I need one with all glass and a body with no major damage. Rolling body with a dashboard is a big plus. Im located near sumter sc, and can have family look at cars near louisville ky.my max price range is 8k.
  5. After looking everything over and doing some digging I came to the conclusion that using 65 mustang hubs on 240z spindles is not a cost effective solution for big brakes. I am now looking into a ball joint adapter that bolts to the control arm of the 204z and uses press in 2014 mustang ball joints. I intend to use this in conjunction with 2004 Subaru wrx coil over struts to allow the use of 5 lug 2014 mustang hubs and brakes. Which are 5x114.3 The intent is to have the outer wheel mount flange be pushed out roughly 35mm.... effectively converting our cars from a "zero offset" wheel to a "plus 35mm" wheel... aka just like the 300z and the 240sx, Toyota supra etc... It's a front steer, rear caliper spindle just like the stock 240z, once I know what the bump steer geometry will be I will have a clearer picture of things. Someone could use a widebody or flared setup if they chose to run a zero offset wheel, or use cheap and readily available 350z wheels and have stock track width. Let me know if anyone has any input on this. Good idea, bad, etc...
  6. Hi If anyone on here has previous experience or has undertaken such a project I would be grateful for their advice and help in the following. I am building a street able and possibly a light competition car. Something to have fun with. What I imagine is a high revving, very responsive engine with uprated brakes and suspension and a stiffened chassis. I am looking for around 180 to 200 wheel horsepower. The type of car that is not stupidly quick, but something that you can rev out and enjoy pushing through the bends and enjoy through the whole rev range. Not an all out track car with all the power at the top end. I have built a few projects my self and am looking to build the engine myself. At the moment I have my 280z with the stock L28 engine with stock EFI system. I have got it running but don't like the way the engine performs. It seems to have a bit of torque but is sluggish/lazy. It is not a free revving, spirited engine. This could be because it has lost its performance as its old and has an out dated EFI system but from what I have read the L28 is a long stroke engine so not high revving and responsive. This has led me to consider, from what I can see are the 3 options. I want to keep the car naturally aspirated. 1. Rebuild my L28 and increase compressing as from research its a low compression motor. Also add triple Webbers and some cylinder head work (CAM etc.) I am not to hopeful as from what I can tell the L28 is a long stroke engine so even after this work it wont be high revving and will not be very responsive. Also the stock 5 speed gearbox does not seem great for this application. 2. Source an RB25DE as I want to keep the car naturally aspirated. From my research these engines rev higher and make about 150 wheel horsepower. So with this engine I may get away with a simple refresh and possibly some cylinder head work, cams etc to squeeze a bit more power out of it. I will need new mounts, prop shaft, wiring loom etc. 3. Source an RB26 and turn it into a naturally aspirated engine just like Sung Kang's build. This seems to be the more expensive option rather than the RB25. I have done some research and it seems in order to raise the compression of the RB26 I would need to install high compression pistons and stronger rods, change the CAMS, New springs and possibly port and polish the head. I would want to produce an engine that has performance through the rev range though and not all at the top end. I will also need a wiring harness kit, new sump to fit the S30 chassis, ECU and prop shaft made. I calculated this all to cost, including the purchase of the engine and gearbox (RB25 gearbox) to be about £7k if I build it my self. So if anyone has any experience in this it would be great to hear their opinion and what they have done. Many thanks Paul
  7. Hi all this is my first post so sorry if I’m doing this wrong. Recently did the rear disc brake conversion using Zcardepot’s kit and I’ve been having issues with the car not fully stopping even when I pull the e-brake up. I’ve insured to bleed the brakes throughly in the right order (Rear Passenger > Rear Driver > Front passenger > Front Driver). I’ve also adjusted the e-brake tensioning rod so it fits tightly. Thank you for the help!
  8. I couldn't be any happier to announce that I have my 1978 Datsun 280z back in my possession after all these years. Way back when I was only eighteen years old, I had an amazing cousin that introduced me to Datsun's and specifically the S30 Series. At the time he owed a couple Z's. One with an LS swap and the other with a turbo kit. Once I experienced the awesomeness that these vehicles could put out, I was hooked! Just like that, I made my mind up that I had to have one. With my cousins help of course, we were able to pick up my 280z fairly quick. Happy to say that I got in a good couple years with the Z being my daily driver. During this time I began to go down a very dark path. Unfortunately the Z was not my priority during my "dark years". This lead to my car sitting at my dads for a good 6 to 7 years. Now that I am in a much better place in life, I was able to get the Z back in my possession. I decided that it would be best for the car to go straight to the shop and get some professional help. I have never claimed to be the best mechanic, so this seemed to be the best option. Unfortunately the shop had the car for close to a year. I have now paid a LARGE amount to get the car up and running like a top!! Now that I have the car back home I would like to start working on it myself. Again, I have always had help with the car so I feel very unworthy at the moment lol. This is where I would like your help. I will post all the pictures I have, in hopes that you all can point me in the right direction. Honestly I do not have many funds after paying for the shop bill, so I want to make it a point to do all the work myself that I can possibly handle. I have only had the car back for a few days now so I haven't been able to tag it due to the COVID mess going on. From the little bit I have been able to drive it, all seems to be running well! I do think that the next step I take will be upgrading the suspension and steering. Just from the couple short trips I have taken on the Z, its very obvious that the suspension is in need of some love. Happy that you all are here with your expert advice! Look forward to the responses to come!
  9. Inspired by the Head cooling on cylinder #5 thread (http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/), I decided to make my own diagrams of the cooling system for US Z/ZX L6 engines. I had to exaggerate and diminish a few proportions to maintain decent flow while using a flat layout. These charts are as accurate as far as my knowledge and research have shown so far. I will gladly accept any corrections and update accordingly. The year cutoffs are approximate and do not reflect all of the small month-to-month changes of course. On the ZX diagrams, some cars got the throttle body heaters while others didn't. I left them in both diagrams just to cover all the bases. I did spend a fair bit of time on these, so if they do happen to find their way elsewhere on the web, make sure at the very least to cite where they came from. Red = oil passages Blue = water passages and flow direction Yellow = direction of water flow in flexible hoses 1970-1974 240Z / 260Z 1975-1978 280Z 1979-1980 280ZX 1981-1983 280ZX
  10. So I have a 1977 280z with a stock engine. The car runs and drives really well but anytime I come to a red light or stop sign it wants to die so I have to press the gas a little so it doesn’t die. Any ideas on that it is or what I should do? Thanks
  11. So I have a 1977 280z with a stock engine. The car runs and drives really well but anytime I come to a red light or stop sign it wants to die so I have to press the gas a little so it doesn’t die. Any ideas on that it is or what I should do? Thanks
  12. Hey guys I’m in the middle of getting my turbo setup together and need some feedback. Has anyone used this manifold? Also I’m gonna be using a Borg Warner 66/74 turbo, does anyone know what would be a good wastegate size?
  13. Alrighty, Ive got a stock 1978 280z and I'm currently installing an MSD 6A and Blaster 2 coil into the car. After reading any and all forum posts on the topic I came to the conclusion that I would need an MSD Tach Adapter 8920 in order for the MSD box to Communicate to the EFI by upping it to 12v. All my wires are in place and I'm getting a good strong spark. I put a voltmeter on the purple wire coming out of the MSD tach adapter and I'm getting 12v. Only problem is that I'm getting no fuel. It must not be communicating with the EFI somehow. Here's my Setup. MSD 6A: Heavy Red goes to battery + Heavy Black is going to battery - Red is going to Black wire with white strip (Ignition Key Wire) Orange is connected to blaster 2 coil + Black is connected to blaster 2 coil - White is not being used, I do not have a points system Violet and Green are connected to the Magnetic Pickups (I was told it didn't matter which way, I put green to green and violet to red) MSD Tach Adapter 8920: White goes to Tach Output on MSD 6a box Black is ground wire Red is connected to Black wire with white stripe (so two reds and black with white stripe all connected) Violet is connected to the blueish green wire that was connected to the coil negative terminal. Summary: I don't know what the **** I did wrong. Someone please tell me.
  14. I have 10-20k to spend on a clean car. Is anyone looking to sell? I'm willing to have it shipped to me or drive to pick up the car
  15. Hello All, I've been looking for a Datsun 280z for a few months now, and with my fingers crossed tomorrow might be the day. With that being said I'm unaware of actual condition and have only seen pictures. If it is purchased tomorrow I will be posting pictures as soon as possible to get a bit of feedback as this will be my first project car. From what I've seen it looks good though👍. My apologies ahead of time, I've never worked on a car so I'm very unfamiliar with things. ALL TIPS & CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM APPRECIATED. The Goals LS3/T56 Swap - I plan to buy a total kit from Jegs. (https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/CPSLS376525T/10002/-1) my only concern is that it says Super magnum I had trouble finding that specifically on google/forums. So if I need something like this (https://www.jegs.com/i/McLeod/673/TUET11009/10002/-1) let me know. A/C - really hoping to be able to make this work with the swap as I do intend to daily the vehicle. Was able to find some people could make something over at Vintage Air work. Air Suspension - This has been another difficult area as it seems the only answer has been custom. I am hoping to be able to get an accuair CVT system to work. Rear End/Suspension - This is an area I do need some help in. what would be good enhancements/upgrades to the rear end and suspension? I know the air will just work as the coilovers but what else should be done to ensure a safe and somewhat comfortable ride around 500Whp? Aero/Bodykit - Rocket Bunny Pandem widebody Frame Reinforcement - Since I will be going for higher HP I plan to take precautionary measures and get the frame reinforced to hopefully prevent any bending if there are any kits or tips in this area much appreciated. Roll Cage - here in SF I was able to find someone to Fab/weld in Comfort/Bucket Seats - want the race look but still want to run a harness and be able to go for prolonged car rides without discomfort. Open to ALL suggestions! 😊 Power Windows/Locks - Found a Kit here (https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-4211) seems a few people managed to install without issue. Big Brake kit - not top priority as I'm learning I may not be able to run this setup with air or specific rims (more of a dream) A brake upgrade will be preformed nonetheless. I'm sure that I missed so many things but I figure this is a good place to start and it hopefully gives everyone an idea of what i'm going for. I have some BIG goals for the interior but I need to make sure the car is in good running condition before I worry to much about all of that. please point out anything that I missed out or may not be thinking of when getting into this swap. Just to help those who will say "too much for a first project" or "learn more before doing this" I will be working along side a certified mechanic while everything is being done to the vehicle😃. The budget is going to be $35,000 I understand a large portion will go to the engine but there isn't necessarily a limit just spending will slow down significantly after😅. Hope to hear back from some people soon so I can start to get some better ideas on where to start this project. Cheers!
  16. Hello Everyone. I am looking to purchase an S30 with a manual that is in decent shape. Don't care about model (Coupe or 2+2) or year. Just an S30. Not too much rust or no rust and something that runs. It can be ugly just want to not have to do tons of rust repair. I'm looking for a light project not a complete ground up overhaul. I'm located in Coal City, IL. My contact information is bkhansen93@gmail.com or 8154053050. Will be willing to speak to anyone who has something to sell. Just reach out to me.
  17. I am selling my 1973 Datsun 240Z. Bought as roller without engine/trans in 2011/2012. Previous owner/s have changed the roof and various parts, so some of the stuff i pulled out was off a 260z/ 280z and there might still be some mixed parts on it. That and all the modifications pretty much eliminate this as a show car. Do not buy this thinking it can be restored to show car quality. It would take far more than would make economic sense. This is purely made to run quick/fast, not to look pretty. It's raw and needs muscle to be driven. It has manual brakes without booster and manual steering without power assistance. You need to be strong like bull. But it is rewarding! If you dare you can get 0-60 in just over 4 seconds, while carrying a passenger. I've never felt the need to put effort into it, but I am certain it'll crack the 4 second mark if you just lower the tire pressure... This is a great handling, light weight car with balls! Once you get used to its noise and raw roughness or like me, fall in love with it, this car is AWESOME! Took it to tracks and autocross events and thoroughly enjoyed the @#$% out of it every time i drove it, but I am almost done building me next racecar and I need the funds to focus and finish it up... Now to the great things about this car. I'm just going to list as much as I can and I'll save some details for when you come to see it: SOLID 1997 Pontiac Trans Am LT1 V8 with 310 hp at around 5250 rpm and a torque curve that starts well above 320 ft. lbs. from the word go all the way into the rev limiter. Max torque 340 ft. lbs. Stand-alone engine harness and Howell Engineering computer, tune-able, obviously T56 manual 6-speed transmission out of the same 1997 Pontiac Trans Am S1 Sequential Shifter that translates forward/ backward motion into the H-pattern - yeah, it's awesome! R200 rear diff with a fantastic Quaife ATB torque biased helical limited slip differential upgrade and 3.545 final drive ratio Nissan Armada CV jointed half shafts LED sealed beam replacement headlights with aero covers Both, front and back bumpers lightened (not good for crash resistance, so be aware) Fiberglass bumper covers, front and back, front with lower air dam Fiberglass fenders Fiberglass hood with vents and secured by lockable aerocatch latches Fiberglass cowl Fiberglass flares Wilwood brakes (almost 13" all around) with 6 piston front calipers and 4 piston rears - high temp fluid, track disks, track pads, biasing valve installed Complete Arizona Z car suspension kit with billet control arms etc pp, which keeps the rear control arms straight while the vehicle is lowered! 5-lug Rota wheels 17x9 front and 17x9.5 rear with Nitto NT01s in 255/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears Autopower bolt in 10 point roll cage NRG hub and deep dish steering wheel with quick disconnect and lockable cover Custom light weight polycarbonate dash board Dakota Digital gauge cluster with 0-60 timer and 1/4 mile timer and couple neat functions Ignition activated dash cam with GPS Corbeau racing seats on sliders, forth and back adjustable! Schroth ASM harness belts Fuel-Safe bladder fuel tank with functioning level sensor and external high flow filter and Mallory pump Fiberglass deck lid spoiler American Autowire chassis harness Clean California title Made in 1973, this car is PRE-smog and does not have to go to smog inspection! Current registration Asking price $12,500.00 Located in San Diego
  18. Cross-post from Fabrication/Welding. I'm looking at buying this '75 280z. The biggest downside is one of the frame rails has abut an 18" stretch of chewed out metal. Here's what it looks like https://imgur.com/a/TkbKOEo. Are the rails too banged up and rusted to be repaired? And would repairing them bee too costly? Currently the owner is asking 8500 for the car. The only other rust is a little bit in the upper part of the passenger footwell/firewall
  19. For Sale- NOS 280z coupe backglass. PPG brand- part# FB1222 Been in warehouse for decades. Rare part perfect for your restoration. NLA No scuffs or scratches! $150 plus PayPal fee/Shipping
  20. I just picked up 1975 280z. Body condition was amazingly good and minimum rust. Only small dent on the passenger's side of the door and fender. The goal for this project is phased project. 1. To run the engine 2. Fix minor rust 3. 240z bumper and tail light conversion 4. Fuel injection to Triple weber swap. 5. Paint the car Let's see how much progress I can make monthly...
  21. I finished my l28et swap and she runs beautifully! The only thing I don't have is the tachometer wired up. Anyone know where the tachometer wire is located? Preferably someone that has done it already. Here's some picture if it helps at all.
  22. Looking for a ‘78 280z engine wiring harness with A/C. john
  23. Great to have found HybridZ Forums. Have been reading lots of useful zinformation for 2-3 hours and decided to register. This red ‘77 280Z is my 4th Z recently purchased in November 2018. In my late 20s to early 30s I owned a ‘73 240Z, ‘75 280Z and ‘74 260Z in that order. Of course they were fairly new back in the day. That’s me in 1979 with my silver ‘75 280Z. Wish I could have kept it. LOL Yes, I absolutely love these beautiful S30 Datsuns. Look forward to the forums here being a great resource for maintaining our 40+ year old cars. It’s a passion and love affair!
  24. Hello all, 1st post on this forum Picked up myself a 1976 280z and looking at getting new wheels and tires. Decided on Rota Grids V, 16x8 with 0 offset for the fronts and 16x9 for the rears. Slightly lowered but otherwise stock suspension at the moment... I've searched and 16x8 with 0 offset clears rears and barely fronts (strut side). So apparently rears have more room between inner wheel edge and the strut, would I be able to get away with 16x9 with 0 offset, or I have to run -15 Offset? Prefer to go with 0 offset wheel so I don't have to massage wheel arches much. Any help will be much appreciated, have a wonderful day! Thanks, Paul Found it, for anyone else looking for this - YES, 16x9 with 0 offset will fit 280z rear (with stock struts) Post by m1ghtymaxXx in the attachment below has an answer! Will 15x9 -10 wheels fit 280z - The Tool Shed - HybridZ.mht
  25. I see a few posts in here but I am looking for more specifics if anyone has any input or wants to try and convince me toward a direction go ahead but. I want to do a clean build (no junkyard shit) that I can take on road trips and whatnot, maybe on weekends and all that. I have heard horror stories of horrid MPG and being in the shitty state of CA id like to keep in the friendlier numbers of MPG. I am also not shy of HP so I was looking into RB26 swaps, Chevy V8, etc. Since I am a bit new am I going to run into shit with some setups, huge costs? Any info would be great or links to good posts.
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