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About zspeed22

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 07/13/88

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    Sioux Falls, South Dakota
  1. Caution on the 4L80E as you can make them fit in a 280z it is not the most enjoyable thing to do. Also you will need a custom trans mount as I don't believe there is one out there.
  2. All accessories are F-body. With milling the back for the single bar and keeping the stock F-body mount it worked proper for spacing of all F-body accessories. Waterpump - AC Delco part# 252-846 Alternator - AC Delco part# 334-2486A this is a reman part. Tensioner Assy - Gates part# 38195 Idler Pulley - Gates part# 38041 Balancer/Pulley - Fluidampr part# 740111 There is no power-steering pump or ac involved with this setup of course. Also I have not sorted out the part number for my belt yet. I need to get a line and measure it.
  3. There is space between the nut and the valve cover just hard to get a picture of it.
  4. I am not sure if this helps. I am currently at work still and this is the only photo I had of it. I will get one of the backside of the alternator as well.
  5. I agree its been some time since I have been on here I am going to have to switch over to another service. Anything someone recommends?
  6. I milled the back of the alternator so the plate mounting to the head would be flush with it. Then using a stock Fbody mount for the rest of it directly to the engine.
  7. 5.3 with single PTE 7675.
  8. 90* heater hose elbows?????

    For non Napa specific part number use the following Gates numbers. Gates, 20338 - Short 18077 - Long
  9. I did end up having to mill the back of the Alternator when I did this so the thickness of the bracket coming off the head did not change angles on anything. I also planned on pie cutting them down to a smaller vband. If you notice they would hit the factory heater bypass lines on the water pump. You could do a few things with that. I decided to cut the pump mill the center out and cap it. This way it can internally bypass.
  10. This is what I did for the alternator with the stock Fbody mount. I have seen a few people use this method in the past.
  11. 77 280z lm7 with 4l80e

    These are just the Ebay up and forward manifolds nothing special. They will cross up to a PTE 7675 turbo.
  12. 77 280z lm7 with 4l80e

    So you want to shove a 4L80 in a Datsun. I commend you on this decision. I did this as well and it is all mounted and am pleased with how it turned out. A fair bit of warning I will give you with going this route. 1. You have to cut out the stock mounts and beat a whole bunch in with a hammer. 2. They are massive transmissions and handling them under a car without a hoist/tranny jack is not easy. 3. You will need to have a computer that can control it along with the wiring. I am running a Holley Dominator and purchased their 4L80e pnp harness. I used dirty dingo engine mounts along with a custom trans-mount bolted through a stock/energy mount. I also used the Tremic app on my phone to help align all of it up. I know that sounds weird but it has you take measurements from multiple locations to help determine the correct mounting angles. Either way good luck and be patient. In the pictures you will see my mount that I made. It is defiantly not pretty and I was not worried about exhaust since I am doing a front exit but I will defiantly be strong enough. The last picture of the up and forward manifolds flipped over with the dirty dingo mounts clear without an issue.
  13. Turbo 5.3 Dyno

    Maybe you will have to bring it out to the next MAP proving grounds event in September if you are moving to the citys. I am hoping to have mine making passes by this event.
  14. They do clear the steering rod without an issue. Also plug wire clearance is not an issue either because of how the tubing is spaced. Honestly they two issues I have with these are the giant collector vbands, and how far forward they put the vbands. Those are two things I can easily work with.
  15. They defiantly do fit with the dirty dingo mounts upside down. The alternator will have to be moved up top to clear.