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Zoldman

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Everything posted by Zoldman

  1. I have read every post I can find on brake upgrades and have run into an issue I hope someone can help with. I have a 4/73 240 with a brand new 8.5" booster that I really dont want to replace, but will if I have to. I also have the non vented Toyota 4x4 calipers on the front with stock drums in the rear. The master is a stock 7/8" unit and the fluid volume is not sufficient to operate the new calipers to full brake pressure, which is exactly what numerous posts have mentioned. I have read and heard countless stories about premature failures in the 15/16" rebuilt masters ('79 to '81 ZX?), so I have been looking at the 1" Tilton, which looks like a good unit. However, I have read in my many searches that using the Tilton with the 8.5" booster gives a very stiff pedal and high braking effort. I dont really want that feel when I'm just cruising most of the time. I did auto cross my last Z at times, and may do the same with this one, but it will mostly be used for fun runs and the like. So, my question is, what to do?? Is there a good vendor with reliable 15/16" masters? Am I wrong about the 1" Tilton/8.5" booster combination? I tried another larger booster, from an unknown year Z, but it didnt fit. The diameter measured out around 10.5" but that could be off a little. The bolt pattern was correct to the firewall, but it hit the throttle bracket going in. It also looks like it will interfere with the clutch master, but it is out of the car so not sure. Maybe this one is just too large and their is another year that will fit?? Thanks in advance Bill
  2. Thanks, I will look into Wilwood. Did you keep the stock booster? Any other upgrades to brakes? Bill
  3. Zoldman

    Throttle cable setup - Lockar & custom bracket

    Gary Doing a throttle bracket search and found this thread. You still have any brackets left? Bill
  4. Need some advice folks. I'm working on the stock harness from a 2001 LS1 Camaro and have it pretty much figured out, except for where to put the PCM. I have the orginal (add on) AC system that came with my '73 240Z, and want to keep it, but it takes up so much room in the passenger side firewall/footwell space that there is no room for the PCM that I can think of. I have run out of length on the cable to mount it anywhere else but in the engine bay. I will do that, but am worried about the heat. I know it was in the engine bay in the Camaro, but it was tucked up pretty far from the exhaust manifolds. Where did you mount your computer? Any and all advice and especially pics are appreciated. Thanks Bill
  5. Zoldman

    Computer location?

    Phantom That is exactly where I would like to put mine, but I have the original (dealer add on) AC system and it takes up almost the entire wall on the footwell area. I really want AC for the So Cal summers, so I either have to find another location or rip everything out and go Vintage Air. I'm still arguing with myself over which way to go..........
  6. Zoldman

    Computer location?

    The factory harness does not have enough wire to mount it there...wish it did. Clean looking install. Thanks
  7. Zoldman

    Computer location?

    Yes, I have the stock mounting bracket from the 2002 F body it came out of, and I can make it work, but like I said, it just doesnt look very clean to me. Maybe putting a "HybridZ" sticker on it will help!
  8. Zoldman

    Computer location?

    I guess I'm more worried about the location "looking clean". It is probably a stupid thing to be obsessing about, but for whatever reason, this is my obsessive/compulsive issue of the day. I'll move on to making a mountain out of another mole hill as soon as I figure this one out.............
  9. Zoldman

    Computer location?

    Socorob How was the Vintage install process? I know the dash has to come out, which I was not going to do unless I had to, but Vintage is an option I have looked at. Are you happy with the system? Thanks Bill
  10. Zoldman

    Computer location?

    Yeah, I looked at the windshield squirter area; not the worst option. I will look again. I have my battery in the stock position, and it is a brand new Odyssey ($$$$), so not looking to change that right now. Thanks.
  11. Fuzzy Did you ever mount your surge tank? Would sure like to hear how it went and maybe see some pix? I am looking for ideas on how to mount the tank and pump, as well as fuel line routing. Thanks Bill
  12. To all those who have done this as part of your LS1 tank install: How did you put it back together so that the unit sealed to the base? I cut the top off so that the plate, spring and diaphram could be removed. When I put it back together without these items, I get flow to the return tube in the bucket, but also get leaking from the base of the regulator where it mounts back to the base on the bucket assembly. I've tried different o rings, but don't know what else to do. I think all the assembly is doing now is tying together the return line outlet to the return tube, so if I could just seal it up, everthing would be cool. ARGHHHHH!! Any ideas? Thanks Bill
  13. All, My e brake was "gone" when I bought this car; I guess the guy b4 me decided he didn't want it and took most of the under car hardware off. I have scrounged around and got it all working again, but have a problem with the pass side rear adjuster when I pull on the brake handle. When I'm pulling on the handle, the lever or bar that pushes on the adjusting wheel will rotate the wheel a bit, then pop off and move up and over the wheel. When I push the handle back down, it pops back into position on the wheel. I does this every time. It also rotates the adjuster wheel every time the handle is pulled, like the brake needs adjusting, but it does not. It will keep rotating the adjuster till that drum is almost locked with the brake off. The other rear does not do this. What the hey is going on here? Do I just need to bend, lube, and check again? Or is this something common? Could not find anyone else posting about this when I searched........ Thanks Bill
  14. Mom'sZ, Thanks. I think I read one of those, but the others are new to me. I should be able to find the answer in there somewhere. Anyone else? Bill
  15. All, From searching till I'm lost, I know that the pinion end of the diff wants to raise up under heavy throttle/load, and that its good to limit this motion to maintain good u joint angles. What does the output end of the trans want to do under load? I'm guessing it wants to raise up also, because of the posts I've read about tearing the rubber trans mounts and the poly mounts being able to resist this better. Am I correct in this thinking? Both diff and trans want to raise up under load? If so, does the poly trans mount prevent the trans from lifting, or is it good to fit some kind of restraint on the end of the trans as well? Thanks Bill
  16. Zoldman

    transmission movement under load?

    bump........
  17. Biltwel, I private messaged you to take this off the discussion forum. Bill
  18. Looks like your last post covered most of my questions. Thanks Bill
  19. Oh man, That looks great! I am at the stage where I'm starting to look at how to mount my shift lever (from a 95 Z28), and your set up is the best idea I've seen so far. Can you tell me more about the box that the shift assy sits in? Is that something you fabbed or got from the donor car? I don't know if I can make one myself; I'm good at assembly but not so good at creation........ Thanks for any info you can give me. Bill
  20. Ok, I've read the sticky and searched, and still have one issue. I've got the "early" S12+8 Toyota calipers for the solid rotor that I think came from 1979 to 1985 4x4 pickups. The calipers were on the car when I got it with stock rotors. Time to change the pads and I want to go with something better than stock. The problem is that Hawk and some of the others don't seem to make a pad for the early caliper. The make them for the 86-95 caliper that used vented rotors, but not for the solid rotor caliper. Will the pads for the vented rotor caliper work? The calipers are actually the same casting, I think, but the inner dimensions are machined differently because the vented rotor is thicker. I can find pads from KEM, Beck Arnley, Raybestos, Etc. but they all seem to be more OEM oriented. Any ideas? Thanks Bill
  21. Jon, I'll check them out; if you know good place to buy them I'm listenin'.... Thanks Bill
  22. Oops, "Ferodo", not Feodo
  23. Dave, Yeah, I've heard of them. I tried looking up the Toyota 4x4 on several different sites that sell them, and no luck. Do you know which Feodo pad fits? Thanks Bill
  24. Hey all, Engine is 1995 LT1. I've done some mods and so have been researching and buying goodies as time and budget permit. I bought some of the Ford Motorsport 30Lb injectors that Brian at PCM for less and many on these pages seem to like. The are the same size and all, but the clips that hold the injectors into the rail do not fit. I got the clips from my stock injectors, and just assumed that since the Ford units will work, they would secure with the same hardware. Are there different clips for these injectors, or do you just not use clips at all? Looks to me like the bolts that mount the rail assembly on top of the manifold hold everything together? I did searches but could not find this particular topic........ Thanks Bill
  25. Thanks everyone...... My old injectors bottomed out in the rail......I think. I just assumed that you needed to fully seat the injector to keep it from leaking. I'll bet its OK either way; fully seat them and forget the clips, or partial seat and use the clips. As long as it doesn't leak, it should be fine. Thanks for the help Bill
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