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Found 6 results

  1. Hello, Been looking for years and I finally came into possession of a motor-less 260z that i want to swap a non-turbo 2jz into. I've swapped an engine before but it was the same type of motor (blown 3s-gte swapped for one I built-up in my 91 mr2). So I'm trying to compile a to-do/to-find list for what I need for the swap, so far this is what I have and want to use: Have: -A buddy sold me a rear-sump sc300 2jzge and I was able to get a AR5 transmission for cheap as well Planned: -ApexEngineered front crossmember and JZ mounts -1jz bellhousing (for the ar5) -SN95 Mustang gas tank + fuel pump -JDM 2jz ecu for now (haltech or megasquirt later) -Better wiring harness later in life -JZ clutch fan -3 core radiator Unknown: -Will the 260z master cylinder need to be used? Or would I need another manufacture? -Do I need to run new fuel lines from the tank? I know I'm missing some things and was hoping that someone with more experience can shed some light as to what else I need.
  2. Sorry I didn't know i hadn't any pics added. I've been kind of lurking around these forums for 3+ years. I had bought a 74' 260z with plans on swapping in a Sr20det Redtop when I had first joined in 2012. I actually had all the key components for this swap; motor/trans set, wiring specialties harness, fuel cell, Mckinney mounts, etc. etc. But fate had a different plan for me, because after I wrecked my sisters car, I had to sell the whole project for payment.... It was a long very excruciating/frustrating month. Anyways, I ended up selling the redtop to a 510 owner, and luckily for me more than him, I dodged a bullet. The original owner of the Sr20 had forgot to mention it needed a rebuild. Sucks. I kind of have been more low-key for a while. I had bought a daily turbo AWD Volvo wagon, and did some minor bolt-on/suspension components. I thought this would hold me over forever, pfftt sike, I had a creeping lingering of wanting to go fast and stupid…. but European parts aren’t the cheapest. So I started searching for another project. I really wanted a Mk3 supra. When I were a bit younger I had one but couldn’t afford any upgrades, and after the second blown head gasket I tapped out. So after searching I found a cheap shell that already had some chassis upgrades in Cali, it came with a r154 no motor, Tien coilovers and a clean title/paint. So I offered a deal and a date to pick it up that weekend, but when the day came the guy had sold it already. -__-. So my roommate had a friend that was selling a Datsun 260z. He hadn't posted it yet and wanted to sell it "cheaper" to friends of friends if that became the case. At first I said no because I didn't want to deal with the rust, fuel tank, Blah Blah. I thought about it for all but 10 minutes and curiosity killed that cat, quick. I told my buddy you know what let’s go take a look, what’s that going to hurt. Come to find out this guy put some good money into the car already. All four Willwood brakes, Rota Grids, BC suspension, new tie rods, new bushings, Mishimoto Rad, Pertronix Ignition, the list goes on. He even had a box with misc. parts that had triple carb’d short plenums. All for $2000. So I ran to the bank before he could change his mind. I mean yes it has rust of course but, only issue was since he had upgraded to the Pertronix/Flamethrower unit he couldn't get it started. Lol it also had no steering wheel, no seats, no electrical I.E no turn signals or headlights. So i bought a Grip Royal, put a spare seat, and wired in some lights. Got it running but I wanted something faster. At first I wanted to do a RB series motor, for the longest I thought of a Rb20 was the way to go. Then of course after dooming myself by watching youtube vids of swaps, I said why not get a RB25. I didn't want to do a swap and feel like I did the wrong swap, and not be satisfied….So then I contacted NASA and starting inquiring about jet engines….lol Just kidding. Then for some reason I started looking into the JZ class, I think it was because deep down I’ve always wanted a 1.5jz MK3 supra. IDK, but when I looked over the 1j/2j swap for dummies that’s a sticky on this forum and, the countless info it had, I knew the 1j was a great idea. So I picked up a 1j-vvti out of a jzx100 from an airman who recently moved here. It was still in the crate when I bought it. He actually had a few motors in his garage, two rb25s, a dismantled 2jz non-vvti, and a complete 1j-vvti which I bought. I almost went LSX but I wanted to keep it JDM, now that I think about it, a diesel turbo would’ve been pretty sweeeeeeeet. Anyways after I got the 1j I let it sit in the garage for a bit. I figured I could buy a r154 later, not knowing how much they have gotten since they’re so sought after. Before I started the swap I wanted to start doing things to the chassis. When I bought it I thought it were the coolest looking car you’d see, like mad max style. I loved how it looked. But deep down I felt like the car wasn’t something I created. Like when I would get compliments, I felt like I was driving someone else’s project, if that makes sense. So I bought airdam/front bumper/Fender mirrors and loved the way it turned out. Made a bracket for a K-sport hydraulic handbrake. (don't mind the interior, after this swap i really need to fix this lol) (Took this for you guys after motor was out) Bought new wheels/zg flares Atari 15x10.5 thanks to my buddy in Reno, I bought his old set-up. I knew with the 1j, I would need more meat on my tires than just the 8". Or maybe thats what I told myself to justify buying his clean wheels lol. Gave him a clear coat and added this One Piece Anime sticker (I decided to dedicate this car to my nephews favorite anime character Sanji). I think it looks pretty cool, I feel like its kinda different. I like different. After I felt like the Rusted chassis was ready for some HP loving, I started sourcing out motor components. Went to Arizona for the rear sump oil pan, since the jzx100s come front. Hit up drift motion for some preventive maintenance parts, and did more research for this s**t show I was going to bring onto myself lol. So when I was searching around I found countless info on the transmissions you could use over the R154. I knew I didn't want to pay for the expensive tranny I found to be not the smoothest, so I looked into the CD009, 300zx transmission, and w58(this would've been a mistake in the long run I feel). I was practically sold on the CD009, a buddy went with this transmission and told me how good this was. But, and this was a big but, I didn't want to have to mill anything down. I ended up stumbling across something interesting on the CLUBLEXUS forum and found some info on the Aisin Ar5 transmission out of a Solstice/Sky. I kind of laughed at first, I didn't think it possible, but after doing some intense reading. I’ve found it’s a new and improved R154. Lol shifts like butter because its newer, can handle just about as much torque, and I don't have to mill down the bellhousing. So I sourced one out for cheap down the road in Cali. I bought it from the 2007 Saturn sky, with the inter-trim design. If you want to go this route try and find a one pre 2006, or you’re going to have to make a bracket like it did. Which isn’t bad it just adds a few more steps. So I had to switch from the solstice bell housing, to a 1j to r154 bell housing. It bolted right up. I would much rather do that than have to mill down my bellhousing, I did however have to dremmel my input shaft down just a few mm. Back to drift motion for some tranny components; custom pilot bearing, w58 pressure plate, w58 lightened flywheel, custom un-sprung clutch disc, rear main seal, etc. etc. This tranny/engine swap is getting pretty popular they were saying, I was on a waiting list for the custom Clutch disc for almost a month. I must say after buying the transmission, new clutch components, and even sourcing out a R200. I was still under the price of a used R154. So I bought a OBX LSD unit. After my swap is in I’ll switch to the upgraded bolts and washers. Since I had down time, I started to make brackets out of wood, big thanks to RUSSJZ-FED. I didn’t want to get stuck using the CX-racing mounts, not knowing how far I needed the motor. If you have seen this swap done before in this chassis please copy a link. I’m interested to see where it plays out. Anyways made my running mounts out of wood, and used the XJS mounts that Russ had suggested. I thought I would be sneaky and buy some 1jz swap brackets for the block/transmission for A 240sx off of Ebay. Figured it would save me time and I could always fabricate whatever I needed off of what was already made. -__- that was the wrong mistake. Out of all three parts I received, only the driver side mount worked lol. I then tried to get them to send me at least a replacement passenger side mount, which they were but they informed me that all their mounts are already premade. So do not buy this item from them, it will frustrate you and waste your time!! So I am at a point where I believe I’m ready to take the motor out and the new motor in. That old motor Is as heavy as crap, jeez inline 6 cast-iron block lol, it’s a wonder how they made these motors. Ended up selling my motorset to my buddy up the street, now I have more funds for more dumbs lol. Cleaned up my wiring a bit, since I had the motor out, and had hardwired my turn signals and my headlights. Started to put the new motor in and the catalytic converter was so in the way, so I cut it off. Lol. Not going to need that anymore. I got all my parts for the gearbox bolted in and torqued down. Took a couple of pics for you guys to see what it looks like. So at this point I am far enough in this swap to feel like it'll be a full build thread and not the start of one. When I have time this weekend I am going to start making bridges from the motor to the chassis and see about how I need to make the tranny mount. I do however travel a bit for work, so it may take days for updates. All input is welcome, thanks for checking this thread out fellas.
  3. Hello everyone, I just ordered s12w calipers, 84 300zx rotors, 1 inch wilwood master cylinder, and hub spacers from silvermine motors for my 73 240z. I have 14x7 mesh wheels. Well my concern/question is if I will need a wheel spacer? I would like to get the spacers now if I need them rather than wait until I already have everything going together and get held back. Any help or information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  4. I have read every post I can find on brake upgrades and have run into an issue I hope someone can help with. I have a 4/73 240 with a brand new 8.5" booster that I really dont want to replace, but will if I have to. I also have the non vented Toyota 4x4 calipers on the front with stock drums in the rear. The master is a stock 7/8" unit and the fluid volume is not sufficient to operate the new calipers to full brake pressure, which is exactly what numerous posts have mentioned. I have read and heard countless stories about premature failures in the 15/16" rebuilt masters ('79 to '81 ZX?), so I have been looking at the 1" Tilton, which looks like a good unit. However, I have read in my many searches that using the Tilton with the 8.5" booster gives a very stiff pedal and high braking effort. I dont really want that feel when I'm just cruising most of the time. I did auto cross my last Z at times, and may do the same with this one, but it will mostly be used for fun runs and the like. So, my question is, what to do?? Is there a good vendor with reliable 15/16" masters? Am I wrong about the 1" Tilton/8.5" booster combination? I tried another larger booster, from an unknown year Z, but it didnt fit. The diameter measured out around 10.5" but that could be off a little. The bolt pattern was correct to the firewall, but it hit the throttle bracket going in. It also looks like it will interfere with the clutch master, but it is out of the car so not sure. Maybe this one is just too large and their is another year that will fit?? Thanks in advance Bill
  5. So my 240z has 79 280zx master cylinder, 4-piston calipers with z31 vented rotors up front with perfomance friction pads, and rear has 240sx calipers with akebono pro-act pads and z31 rotors. My problem is the front brakes lock up too easily and I can't stop well at autocross. Has anyone tried a more aggressive autox hawk pad in the rear to help with balancing and have more friction and grab in the rear? Any experience with this? I also saw a mustang kit from silver mine motors. but these won't clear my 14" rally rims. What do you think about trying the pads, or is that a waste of time? Thanks!
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