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280znewbie

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About 280znewbie

  • Rank
    Moving Up
  • Birthday 12/17/96

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bedford PA
  1. Strange rattle

    Actually got out in the garage after work. For anyone who might read this in the future with similar issues, undo the water pump belt and run the car. My bearing was shot. New pump tomorrow, all noise is gone.
  2. Strange rattle

    By gotten worse I mean it is louder since putting the car away in October. I removed the clutch fan and went to electrics so now I hear everything even clearer which makes it seem louder. People have the valve covers off once a week? For what purpose? U don't have to touch the valves for thousands of miles. Any idea if it is just the guides or the tensioner? I know it isnt valves. They're all gapped fine and the noise is from the front cover. Could the sound be from a failing water pump or the bearing?
  3. Strange rattle

    Definitely from the front top of the motor. Valve cover was off a year ago. All the lobes were perfect. Everything seemed tight. Is the little plate on the front of the head allow you into the tensioner or guide?
  4. Strange rattle

    L28et swap into 76. My motor has always had a lite bit of a rattle but it has gotten worse to the point it scares me. Noise comes from the top of the front cover. Car runs great. Does this sound like an upper guide or the lower tensioner?
  5. My motor has always had a lite bit of a rattle but it has gotten worse to the point it scares me. Noise comes from the top of the front cover. Car runs great. Does this soundick like an upper guide or the lower tensioner?
  6. exhaust temps

    Thank u for the reply. What I've decided is to put a thermo tec blanket on the bottom of the intake with it reflective side towards the exhaust. It's rated to block 2000 degree radiant heat. I painted the exhaust and turbo with 1300-2000 ceramic paint.
  7. exhaust temps

    Currently redoing my l28et intake and exhaust manifolds. Does anyone know how hot the exhaust manifold and turbo get on a completely stock setup? Im going to be painting the intake with 550 degree paint, is this high enough? Was planning on painting the exhaust with 1400 degree paint and possibly wrapping. is this a concern? Will the manifold with wrap get above 1400 degrees. also any thoughts on a turbo blanket causing extra wear on the stock turbo? Really dont want to send the manifold out to get professionally coated, cant afford to. Has anyone made a custom heat shield to go between the exhaust and intake?
  8. 240z ignition help

    Also I've noticed when the points are closed I still have full 12v on the negative post, is that a ground issue on the distributor or a problem with the condenser?
  9. 240z ignition help

    Thanks both of u for that info. Unfortunately that's stuff that I've checked for the most part. I just need to use a test light on the coil to check for pulse. Im thinking the condensor is bad. Does it mount on the distributor or the fender?
  10. 240z ignition help

    I do understand electricity, done plenty of car rewires, just new to point systems. I have measured those thing, i.e. ground is good, voltage at one side of point, the only thing left is the condenser, u say it shouldn't have continuity to ground correct? It is wired on the distributor to negative coil post wire correct?
  11. 240z ignition help

    What I mean is that the point itself works perfectly. It opens to its correct gap and makes contact when closed. On a point system the distributor is grounded and when the arm makes contact it too grounds out. It's what allows the coil to enter it's second phase and build voltage for the spark correct? I've researched the wiring of this system and have verified almost everything to be right using a voyage and ohm meter but yet I get no spark out of the coil and what I'm wondering is the negative post on the coil as well as its output supposed to have 12v? I wouldn't think so
  12. I picked up a 71 manual 240z. I can't get any spark from it at all. I have check the points gap which was .018. I have voltage to positive side of coil at both key on and start position. I have used a ohm meter to check that the plug on the distributor is grounded and it is when the point is closed. I have full battery voltage at the negative side of the coil as well as the wire from the coil to the cap. What would be the issue? A condenser of some sort?
  13. I picked up a 71 manual 240z. I can't get any spark from it at all. I have check the points gap which was .018. I have voltage to positive side of coil at both key on and start position. I have used a ohm meter to check that the plug on the distributor is grounded and it is when the point is closed. I have full battery voltage at the negative side of the coil as well as the wire from the coil to the cap. What would be the issue? A condenser of some sort?
  14. cold start issue, more amps from charger needed

    The issue was solved. Put a new CAS in. Solved everything
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