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Found 24 results

  1. Hey all, Sorry, been searching around here and a couple other Z forums, and haven't found anything where someone seems to have this same problem. On my 72 I've been in the process of trying to install some Z-Therapy carbs, but have started by tuning procedure on the ignition system. When I'm trying to advance or retard the timing I CANNOT turn the distributor in the distributor spacer (mounting bracket, block, whatever it's called). I've removed both the bolts (10 mm and 8 mm) which should have let the distributor turn and nothing. I've given it wacks with
  2. Just bought the FAST EZ-EFI kit from Z Car Depot for my 1983 280zx. Put it on my car the other day and it runs worse than it ever has. Car will idle but is very hard to start and really rough when it's running. Using any more than 1/4 throttle will stall the engine. When I am able to rev the engine it's terribly rough. Feels like or an ignition timing issue. I know that when I removed the old EFI harness I disconnected a connector going into the distributor and the new harness did not have a connection to plug back in to the dizzy. Since adding the EZ EFI, ignition timing has retarded itself a
  3. Hello good folks at hybridz. Time to share my bittersweet experience with my MSD street fire ignition. In one phrase: "Sweet, but not to last" I bought the MSD ignition after all the things people were praising it for. I was sugared into the idea that my 240z needed a special spicy shocky sparky super smash MSD ignition. In all honesty for 3 months it worked wonderfully. However, after 3 months the MSD unit showed horrible signs of failure. 1. Misfires from 1000-3000 rpm. When cruising around town, normal driving the engine will have a few farts and coughs. 2
  4. The car runs and drives okay. Still haven't gone through much of the fuel tables. Can't seem to get the timing to adjust electronically through the megasquirt. I can set the timing mechanically but I can't get it to advance or regard through the megasquirt. I've adjusted the trigger angle and that doesn't seem to sway it either way. I have an 85 300zx turbo with a completely stock ignition system. MS2/Extra firmware: 3.3.0 I've read all over about controlling spark with distributors and an ignition coil /power transistor, but I can't seem to get it to do what I want. An
  5. Hope everyone is well. I've learned a bit since my last post about my issues but I'll explain where I'm at. My car 280z with a 99' firebird LS1 and a 4L60E trans is constantly getting getting a P1054 error code (checked with a diablosport intune, i only use it to check for codes, I need a more comprehensive scanner). When the code/check engine light comes on the car seems to lose power/struggle and miss when I hit the gas, just makes a bunch of racket, it gets around ok if I don't hit the throttle too hard. I made it to the gas station about 2 miles from my house today and the sympto
  6. Ok so first off, some background info, when I got the car the PO said that the gas tank wouldn't fill up past half because of something loose. I also drove it 2 hours home. I had it in the shop and when I got it back, I would get on the gas and it wouldn't pass 3.5k rpm, I would try to floor it and it would just backfire like crazy. After awhile the radiator exploded. It went back to the shop and the mechanic put in the new radioactive and now the car doesn't even start. He though it was a bad distributor so he replaced it, that didn't fix it so he put my old one back on. I have some videos of
  7. Hello all, long time, no see. Which is good since I typically only come here when something is bad... anyway I've got this problem, see? Started a bit ago, a little trouble getting the car to start. Classic *click* when I'd turn the key. Checked wiring on my starter, since one has come off in the past leading to this problem... not this time. I rock the car a little in desperation (I'm on a dirt road, quite far from civilization at this point) and somehow it starts up. Whew, I think. I get home. Try turning it on again? Click. all wires connected. OK, must be the batter
  8. I have a 1975 280z and am about to order some aftermarket ignition components (for more reliable spark at high rpm). The ZStore recommends the Pertronix Flame-Thrower I for the coil. However, the OE coil that's in there now only has s 0.8 ohm primary resistance, where as the recommended has 1.5ohms. Are your coils about the same as mine or is it supposed to be closer to 1.5 ohms? If the former, wouldn't it be better to go with a 0.7ohm msd blaster 2? Even the 0.6 ohm Flame-Thrower II would be closer. I am not planning on bypassing the ballast resistor.
  9. Hello everyone, I'm having some issues with getting my 1971 240z started. I've changed fluids, cleaned spark plugs, and got a new battery. I've had the starter and the alternator checked and they are both good. I have power going to the voltage regulator when the key is on but all I get is a clicking sound from a relay that is inside the cab on the passenger side. The fuse box has power but has been modified from stock by the previous owner. I have a video at :54 is the relay clicking. Any help is appreciated. I can also take more vids of dash and engine wiring.
  10. I picked up a 71 manual 240z. I can't get any spark from it at all. I have check the points gap which was .018. I have voltage to positive side of coil at both key on and start position. I have used a ohm meter to check that the plug on the distributor is grounded and it is when the point is closed. I have full battery voltage at the negative side of the coil as well as the wire from the coil to the cap. What would be the issue? A condenser of some sort?
  11. I'll stick this here knowing the subject has probably been beat to death already. Recently rebuilt mikuni 44phh carbs and added a Schneider 270-80f cam to E88 head, 2.6l block. Fuel pressure is at 3.5psi. The car started a little rough with a lot of backfire through the carb. I thought of the dizzy being 180 out but confirmed it wasn't. I have start to play around with advancing the timing. Initially it was idling at 0deg and rough, 2-3000rpm would hit 15-18deg and smooth out the roughness. Fuel pressure is at 3.5psi. I currently have the: Mikuni pilot screws
  12. With my seating position, my small-diameter fat-ring steering wheel is blocking my tach view right in the key areas. OK for DD but already at the first autox I had to keep hunching over and was undesireably encumbered. So I'm looking to make a shift light/indicator for my 72 240Z. Still in the concept stages and any suggestions/resources/corrections are greatly appreciated; I've found a surprising lack of any information of this kind. Im aiming at passive electronics, but may consider Arduino. I'm comfortable with either but mostly just would like to figure out how such a shift li
  13. Hello guys I have a 77 280z and when I went to start it today I got nothing. I have a new battery, new distributor, new alternator and a year old voltage regulator. I have lights in my dash and dome light. Head lights are nice and bright. When I turn the key I get nothing. I usually have a beep when I turn the key. I went and replaced the back part of the ignition today and still nothing with the new one. I will take the whole assembly to locksmith and see if it's the cylinder or what. Can anyone shed some light on what else to check?
  14. Well, I figured it would happen eventually. I'm trying to figure out the wiring before I get the engine in the car so the swap goes as quickly as possible. I've gone over the sticky as well as the more extensive and hidden version of the same thing. Harness is from an 82/83 280ZXT and going into a '76 280Z The diagrams and pictures I've seen have two plugs near the rubber firewall grommet, one for ignition (8 wire plug) and one for the fuel pump/fuel pump relay (6 wire plug). However, my harness has two 8 wire plugs, and the wires and colors do not match those of the diagrams
  15. Any of you Datsun guys have this problem before?: First off: 2/74 260z My car starts by a push and hold button once the key is in the on position. This is how it's hooked up from the PO. It's literally 1 wire from the battery> Push button>1 wire> starter. Does not run off any other wires or ignition, so I can run the starter with my key off. - If i twist the key to the start position I would still hear the ignition relay click even though it's not hooked to the starter. The other day I went to start my car and the ammeter gauge showed no charge, lights were dim too
  16. I would like to know what everybody is running for dwell on their megasquirt direct (single) coil control on thir l-gata z. For example the stock ballasted 280z coil. The " hot" z31 300z coil and various performance coils.
  17. Just wanted to share my little ignition winter project. I wanted to keep my triple carbs but I wanted better ignition. I'm sure it would also come with better emission which is also a good point. Here’s the car : ’72 240z with 2.8L L28 engine coming from a 280zx. I'm converting it to Megajolt this winter during snow (& salt) season. I've tried to be exhaustive with my presentation. Only big advice I've got: Get good crimping tools! You must invest in one pair of pliers at least. I've got 3: one for moley pins, 2 for regular flat pins. I would discourage anybody who would intent
  18. Hi, I'm planning to add a MAP sensor to my current setup; this includes 3.1L + Triple Webers + Electromotive HPX ignition. If you take a look at the attached photos, you'll see how I plumbed PCV and the brake booster. I've read that it's not advisbile to pull vacuum for a MAP sensor directly off the same vacuum line as the booster. My DCOE 40-151's have a vacuum port that I use to balance the carbs using gauges. Would this be a sufficient vacuum source for a 1 bar map sensor? Thanks, Bajcsi
  19. I was almost ready to deliver a 1976 280Z Restomod to my daughter 6 months late after her 16th Birthday! We started the car up and went to pull it into the shop for final buffing/touchups and low behold the engine died and would not restart. Needless to say my daughter was heartbroken. The car would crank but not start. If the engine was cold, it would start, run one minute or less and then die and not restart for hours. At first check my plugs were all soaked with fuel so we thought "flooded" clean the plugs, suck out the cylinders dry and and try again. No luck, no start. Pulled the pl
  20. So I just picked up an '83 280zx-t that I am planning on using as a donor for my l28et swap in my S30. Bought it not runningn as something "electrical" went wrong with the previous owner. He said he took it out of storage, jumped the battery and drove around the block and now the car won't start. When I got it home I began to go through all of the wiring and finally I was able to get some of the lights, however I still cannot get the car to turn over when I turn the ignition switch. I noticed a relay was missing from the relay box and also a wire cut from the other box under the hood. Hoping
  21. hello Hybridz, the other day i was getting the z ready for a car meet, so a thorough cleaning. i got there fine but when i tried to leave the car would barley start and cylinders 4 and 5 would not fire. me and another gentleman cleaned the distributor out and then cylinder 5 started to fire, but still not cylinder 4. it has to be something to do with the distributor "cap" because the wire is barley getting any spark.you can here cylinder 4 rarely fire like it got enough of a charge to ignite. i tried another wire but still not change, oh and if i leave the wire off the spark plug the car seem
  22. Hi guys, I just got a 280zx and put a battery in it and turned the key and nothing happened. So I figured the battery was dead, I put a new battery in, same thing, so I put the new battery on a charger, same thing. There is no power to anything, no headlights, no dash lights, no hazard lights, no horn, nothing. So I checked all the fuses and they look good, checked the wiring from the battery and it looks good, but I found some wires right next to the battery that are cut. I'm not sure where they are supposed to go, or even if this is the problem? But it seems like the power from the battery
  23. So somewhere along the life of my s130, someone lost the keys. The ignition switch is messed up now from a PO using a screw driver to turn it to the on position, and there is a flip switch for the starter. Anyways, i bought a universal ignition switch from autozone, i tried to wire it up but just couldn't seem to get it. The blue plug that plugs into the original ignition, i found the battery wireand the starter wires, but can't seem to get it to where when the key is in the on position or acc to get anything to happen. Just wondering if anyone else installed one before and could help me in do
  24. Installed new pertronix and new coil. Car ran fine on points prior to install. Won't start after installation. Nor will it start after i pulled the pertronix and put points back in. Im thinking the coil is bad even though its new and im getting some spark from it. Anyone done this install before? Need help plz!!!
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