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Robfixhondas

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About Robfixhondas

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    Seattle
  1. I have done that, either diff doesent matter, it's definitely the t3 bar, or the studs are bent. The whole purpose is to find out if there is suppose to be a twist in the factory bar or not. There are only 2 options to order for t3 r180 or r200.
  2. I've contacted t3 and they said the bar should have no twist to it. I do have the bar for an r180 and that's what I removed. I'm installing an r160 from a Subaru which has the same external measurements as the the 180. As far as I'm aware t3 only makes 2 different bars, an r180 or r200 style
  3. I understand how the front upper and lowers work and that the upper is just a bumper. And I understand pinion angle, that's why I thought at first that the ttt bar was too low in the rear until I compared them side by side and found the twist. The front bolts up fine, but the twist in the stock rear mustache bar apparently should not exist. I'm going to check the pins on the frame for the mustache bar, I'm assuming they should be square to the frame/ straight up and down? If they are bent or not at the proper angle that could explain why the stock bar is twisted and the new one is at the wrong angle.
  4. Wow, that's some serious modification. The height of the bars and holes are the same, the ttt bar just points the diff down further. I would prefer to not have to modify the lower Cross member like that. My front upper is a ron Tyler style mount from technoversions, the lower Cross member and lower mount are stock. The rubber bumper is trimmed to fit with the stock lower mount and crossmember.
  5. The front upper fits fine, and the diff site fine between the upper and lower front mounts. I've attached a picture of the front upper installed, and a picture of how far I have to push the nose of the diff up to bolt up the lower to the body when the ttt aluminum mustache bar is installed. With the stock steel bar the diff is angled up in the front and fits fine. At this point I would go back to the steel bar but it won't do around the new control arm drop mounts.
  6. It appears the the factory bar is either twisted from the factory or from wear. And the new ttt one doesn't allow for the nose of the diff to bolt to the body, I have an aftermarket upper front mount to replace the strap (picture attached). Like I said I can force the nose up into place but it puts a lot of stress on the ttt aluminum bar.
  7. So I've taken out the sti diff and have it on my shop floor with the ttt mustachbar attached, sitting right next to the factory diff with the factory mustache bar. All the dimensions, height location of bushings are the same. However the factory bar has twist in it. With the ttt bar installed the front of the diff is way too low, if I force it up into position it tries to twist the aluminum bar,
  8. i dont have the front mount bolted up at this point, if i jack up the front of the diff to bolt it in its twists the rear bar. dont have the stock strap upper for the front any more, its a steel brace with rubber insert. i guess ill try putting the stock bar in and see if it works. i measred the stud height on the 2 differentials and they are the same. ill update as soon as i find out more.
  9. So I have a 1974 260z that I'm putting a sti r180 rear differential into. I've got a mustache bar and control arms from techno toy tuning, along with wolf creek cv axles. When I try to put the front mount of the diff in place it flexes the mustache bar and the differential seems to be tilted too high in the front. When comparing to the stock parts the rear cover on the diff has the studs in the same place and the two differentials look identical. The hole locations and offset of the original and techno toy mustache bars are correct but he factory steel bar seems to have a bit of twist. I can't tell what I'm missing here and wanted some input.
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