Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'differential'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


There are no results to display.


  • Technical
    • FAQs
    • Model Specific
    • V8 Z Forums
    • 6 Cylinder Z Forums
    • Other Engines
    • Engine Components
    • Body Kits & Paint
    • Windtunnel Test Results and Analysis
    • Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
    • Drivetrain
    • Fabrication / Welding
    • Interior
    • Miscellaneous Tech
    • Trouble Shooting / General Engine
  • General
    • Announcements
    • Non Tech Board
    • New Members Forum
    • Members Projects
    • Motorsports / Events
    • Buy / Sell / Trade
    • Group Buys
    • Vendor's Forum
    • Links
    • Site Support
    • Area 51
    • The Tool Shed


  • Blog 7794
  • Blog 7796
  • Blog 7797
  • Blog 7801
  • Blog 7810
  • Blog 7821
  • Blog 7850
  • Blog 7876
  • Blog 7900
  • Blog 7903
  • Blog 7918
  • Blog 7945
  • Blog 7995
  • Blog 8097
  • Blog 8113
  • Blog 8124
  • Blog 8199
  • Blog 8217
  • Blog 8223
  • Blog 8239
  • Blog 8335
  • Blog 8424
  • Blog 8478
  • Blog 8501
  • Blog 8644
  • Blog 8751
  • Blog 8853
  • Blog 9074
  • Blog 9088
  • Blog 9095
  • Blog 9152
  • Blog 10389
  • Blog 10579
  • Blog 10681
  • Blog 10929
  • Blog 10956
  • Blog 11195
  • Blog 11737
  • Blog 11794
  • Blog 11853
  • Blog 12120
  • Blog 12435
  • Blog 12884
  • Blog 13129
  • Blog 13159
  • Blog 13200
  • Blog 13472
  • Blog 13567
  • Blog 13587
  • Blog 14207
  • Blog 14439
  • Blog 14625
  • Blog 14703
  • Blog 14909
  • Blog 14919
  • Blog 14975
  • Head Gasket for 3.1 liter stroker engine
  • Blog 15298
  • Blog 15393
  • Blog 15520
  • Blog 15602
  • Blog 15654
  • Blog 15717
  • Blog 15865
  • Blog 16224
  • Blog 16227
  • Blog 16485
  • Blog 16662
  • Blog 16809
  • Blog 16878
  • Blog 16923
  • Blog 17059
  • Blog 17103
  • Blog 17116
  • Blog 17333
  • Blog 17402
  • Blog 17506
  • Blog 18026
  • Blog 18084
  • Blog 18466
  • Blog 18819
  • Blog 19188
  • Blog 19475
  • Blog 19671
  • Blog 19685
  • Blog 20165
  • Blog 20200
  • Blog 20239
  • Blog 20330
  • Blog 20345
  • Blog 20475
  • Blog 20568
  • Blog 20611
  • Blog 20767
  • Blog 20885
  • Blog 21113
  • Blog 21316
  • Blog 21355
  • Blog 21400
  • Blog 21541
  • Blog 21630
  • Blog 21672
  • Blog 21712
  • Blog 21925
  • Blog 21950
  • Blog 22036
  • Blog 22272
  • Blog 22312
  • Blog 22331
  • Blog 23034
  • Blog 23042
  • Blog 23220
  • Blog 23246
  • Blog 23322
  • Blog 23406
  • Blog 23570
  • Blog 23700
  • Blog 23718
  • Blog 23737
  • Blog 23762
  • Blog 23794
  • Blog 23917
  • Blog 23956
  • Blog 23959
  • Blog 24064
  • Blog 24131
  • Blog 24139
  • Blog 24205
  • Blog 24221
  • Blog 24240
  • Blog 24430
  • Blog 24435
  • Blog 24495
  • Blog 24576
  • Blog 24643
  • Blog 24722
  • Blog 24770
  • Blog 24833
  • Blog 24848
  • Blog 24853
  • Blog 24872
  • Blog 25030
  • Blog 25248
  • Blog 25289
  • Blog 25373
  • Blog 25396
  • Blog 25527
  • Blog 25674
  • Blog 25853
  • Blog 25886
  • Blog 25922
  • Blog 25986
  • Blog 26129
  • Blog 26181
  • Blog 26217
  • Blog 26240
  • Blog 26247
  • Blog 26299
  • Blog 26401
  • Blog 26440
  • Blog 26559
  • Blog 26735
  • Blog 26736
  • Blog 26831
  • Blog 26844
  • Blog 26883
  • Blog 26884
  • Blog 27002
  • Blog 27028
  • Blog 27169
  • Blog 27260
  • Blog 27267
  • Blog 27307
  • Blog 27345
  • Blog 27400
  • Blog 27428
  • Blog 27452
  • Blog 27558
  • Blog 27622
  • Blog 27707
  • Blog 27735
  • Blog 27877
  • Blog 28049
  • Blog 28070
  • Blog 28199
  • Blog 28214
  • Blog 28234
  • Blog 28308
  • Blog 28320
  • Blog 28475
  • Blog 28476
  • Blog 28494
  • Blog 28657
  • Blog 28671
  • Blog 28814
  • Blog 28880
  • Blog 28923
  • Blog 28943
  • Blog 28945
  • Blog 28982
  • Blog 28993
  • Blog 29008
  • Blog 29036
  • Blog 29168
  • Blog 29412
  • Blog 29467
  • Blog 29618
  • Blog 29710
  • Blog 29759
  • Blog 29832
  • Blog 29868
  • Blog 29922
  • Blog 29950
  • Blog 30009
  • Blog 30027
  • Blog 30175
  • Blog 30182
  • Blog 30287
  • Blog 30302
  • Blog 30339
  • Blog 30443
  • Blog 30461
  • Blog 30474
  • Blog 30517
  • Blog 30556
  • Blog 30654
  • Blog 30729
  • Blog 30758
  • Blog 30773
  • Blog 30842
  • Blog 30872
  • Blog 30886
  • Blog 30989
  • Blog 31027
  • Blog 31048
  • Blog 31073
  • Blog 31109
  • Blog 31116
  • Blog 31138
  • Blog 31251
  • Blog 31307
  • Blog 31343
  • Blog 31378
  • Blog 31393
  • Blog 31432
  • Blog 31495
  • Blog 31507
  • Blog 31592
  • Blog 31626
  • Blog 31643
  • Blog 31692
  • Blog 31717
  • Blog 31760
  • Blog 31768
  • Blog 31777
  • Blog 31826
  • Blog 31851
  • Blog 31877
  • Blog 31907
  • Blog 31942
  • Blog 32009
  • Blog 32051
  • Blog 32073
  • Blog 32094
  • Blog 32111
  • Blog 32142
  • Blog 32169
  • Blog 32198
  • Blog 32250
  • Blog 32256
  • Blog 32259
  • Blog 32262
  • Blog 32291
  • Blog 32371
  • Blog 32417
  • Blog 32463
  • Blog 32515
  • Blog 32519
  • Blog 32562
  • Blog 32678
  • Blog 32695
  • Blog 32725
  • Blog 32981
  • Blog 33294
  • Blog 33517
  • Blog 33612
  • Blog 33734
  • Blog 33993
  • Blog 34018
  • Blog 34140
  • Blog 34452
  • Blog 34586
  • Blog 34855
  • Blog 35117
  • Blog 35378
  • Blog 35742
  • Blog 35956
  • Blog 36022
  • Blog 36030
  • Blog 36711
  • Blog 36997
  • Blog 37069
  • Blog 37070
  • Blog 37103
  • Blog 37166
  • Blog 37257
  • Blog 37645
  • Blog 37818
  • Blog 37954
  • Blog 38369
  • Blog 38569
  • Blog 38681
  • Blog 38923
  • Blog 38945
  • Blog 39122
  • Blog 39441
  • Blog 39494
  • Blog 39529
  • Blog 39575
  • PSL_240z's Blog
  • Phlebmaster's Blog
  • dhp123166's Blog
  • miguel240zcruz's Blog
  • dsalni's Blog
  • dsalni's Blog
  • beon's Blog


  • Configuration File Sharing
  • Drawing Files, Templates
  • Manuals, Diagrams, Guides
  • Software, Calculators
  • Other misc files


  • Z Videos
  • Member Videos
  • Road Racing & Autocross
  • Drag Racing
  • Burnouts and Drifting
  • Crash and Burn
  • Dyno Runs
  • Events
  • Babes
  • Humor
  • Miscellaneous

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







Found 28 results

  1. Alrighty, so after doing some reading, LOTS of reading, I have decided I am developing an end all, be all ultimate super 8.8 swap. The key features of THIS setup are as follows. -bolt on 2015 mustang hub assembly. No more $$$$ stub axles prone to breaking. -bolt on 2007 subaru coilover strut, buy cheap or buy ultra nice, entirely up to you. -bolt on s30 rear lower control arms... again use stock, or nice pieces like Arizona Z car etc, your choice. -will have stock 2015 mustang brake mounting points. We're talking disc brakes with built in parking brake in the caliper, and take off brakes for less than $200. There is a plethora of brake available for these cars, including Baer brakes drag setup that lets you use 15 inch wheels for sticky slicks on drag nights. -3.15, 3.31, 3.55, 3.73 or 4.09 gears And limited slip torsen differentials for $262 to $700 dollars for complete low mileage units. Super 8.8 much stronger than the 8.8 of yesteryear. -800 hp 930 cv axles COMPLETE for $1,299 for the pair. 34 spline into the diff and 32 at the hub. No more stub axles, companion flanges, or custom diff axle stubs or adapter needed. This price was quoted to me today from the "Driveshaft shop". I contacted them about custom length 2015 mustang axles and that's the price they gave me. -rebuildable cv joints, you only have to buy the custom axles once, and rebuild them as needed for much much cheaper. This setup could easily be adapted to use the 2002 and up explorer 8.8 but that would require asking the driveshaftshop to make you custom 31 spline axle stubs instead of the 34 spline ones they include in the $1299 price. This is something I am building for myself. But if anyone wants some I will gladly make extras. I'm just blown away at the prices of things for our Z cars, and decided to bring something to market that would potentially benefit the guys who want something more than oddball custom for stupid money. Aside from the custom length 930 cv axles EVERYTHING is off the shelf cheap and strong parts. Cheap brakes, cheap bearing hubs, cheap differentials, cheap limited slip. And so on. Also, I am designing a front disc brake setup as well. The idea is to use all 4 disc brakes off a 2015 mustang for balanced and affordable braking. It'll require a 17 or 18 inch wheel, but the guys running 800hp turbo is engines or 2jz swaps are usually already there anyway... If you have any better suggestions for a strut I'm open to ideas.
  2. My boyfriend owns and 81 280zx turbo automatic with an R200 differential and half shaft axles. At the moment the car is having an issue of a clunking noise in the rear end whenever we let off the gas and the rear end jumping to its own direction. Both do not happen constantly. You can also hear a grinding noise and whining constantly. I have looked everywhere and can’t find a new diff or even a whole new rear end. I have already spent over 2000 on this car trying to make it run right and am trying to prevent him from scrapping it. Any suggestions please?!
  3. I need an R200 LSD Differential for my 240Z swap. Looking for one already converted and locked. Will pay up for the right one. Will only need stubbies if you have them. Thanks in advance for the help.
  4. Info: 1975 280Z R200 diff non-LSD Problem: First of all, I made a mistake disassembling my suspension without first taking pictures...new to the weekend mechanic world...lots of forum searches, using my haynes manual, youtube, etc.. I have looked in my Haynes manual and searched google images of suspension breakdowns, and still can't seem to identify this part. If I remember correctly, I removed it from the differential mount area. I did lots of cleanup on it and was covered in oil/grime. Please help! I attached pictures of the part.
  5. By chance has anyone on this site changed the gear ratio of a 1989-1996 Q45 differential? My project is to change the 3.54 gears in a Q45 differential to the 4.08 gears from a NA 300ZX. The Q45 differential is currently installed behind an LT1 and 700r4 transmission in a 1976 280Z. Thank you to anyone who may be able to give me some information.
  6. I bought this 75 280z about two months ago and immediately began playing with it. In the photos I have attached, you can see my updates. I have searched and searched the forum but have been unsuccessful finding what I need. Mostly because I'm not familiar with differentials. Could someone please look at the close up of my differential and tell me if it's an LSD unit? I bought it off of ebay advertised as such. More progress to come as I am about to install my urethane bushings and reinstall the cleaned rear suspension. Also did some carbon fiber work to the car (front air dam, carbon fiber front bumper, and MSA victory spoiler). I have the new Konig Rewinds (16x7) shipping to me and am really excited about it! But please, seriously, I need to know if that's an LSD unit. If not, I was ripped off on ebay. Thanks, Jeff Scoggins \I know this may come across as a week first post. \\I've already gotten very far with the help of this forum! Thanks to everyone and the stickies!
  7. So I decided to remove my rear diff which is a 3.7 and install a 3.9 I had laying around. When I romoved the back cover on the one I removed from the car I noticed a little piece in the centre (first pic) that the 3.9 I planned on installing did not have(second pic). Does anyone know what it is? Some kind of locker?
  8. Quick question hoping for a quick answer because i cannot find anything about this through a good deal of searching I have an STI clutch type R180 diff with a 4.44 gear ratio and i'd like to swap in my ratio from the original 1972 Datsun R180 3.364 (possible 3.545, but need to confirm) is this possible without any modification? I am getting really annoyed with my 70mph 3300rpm cruising speed, and the terribly short gear ratio.
  9. I'm looking for a complete s15 helical lsd. Inculding the pumpkin and stubs.
  10. Currently have an R200 w/ the 3.9 gear ratio. Looking for 4+. Anything available out there? Seen a lot of the shortnose R200 that came in the 300ZX or 240sx but not sure if that will work because the pinion gear being different.
  11. So I have a 1974 260z that I'm putting a sti r180 rear differential into. I've got a mustache bar and control arms from techno toy tuning, along with wolf creek cv axles. When I try to put the front mount of the diff in place it flexes the mustache bar and the differential seems to be tilted too high in the front. When comparing to the stock parts the rear cover on the diff has the studs in the same place and the two differentials look identical. The hole locations and offset of the original and techno toy mustache bars are correct but he factory steel bar seems to have a bit of twist. I can't tell what I'm missing here and wanted some input.
  12. I am looking for an R200 rear differential for my 76' 280z. I need a direct bolt-in unit or one with all the parts to make it fit in my 280z. I would prefer it to be LSD of some sort and a gear ratio of either 3.90 or 4.11 to match my 280zx 5-speed transmission. I am located in Northeast Ohio.
  13. I am looking for an R-200, 3.90 ratio. Thanks.
  14. I just acquired a 1976 280z parts car that I am only taking a few things off of. I'm looking to part out anything basically. Shoot me an offer if you want something, and also check out my wanted ad, as we could work out a trade as well for parts I need for my build. I have already taken the louvers, hood, and windshield for my car. Also the frame is non-existent so don't ask for pieces of it. Location: Warren/Youngstown, Ohio Major parts for sale: Complete with 45,000 original miles N42/N42 2.8L engine ran when parked currently has no spark to try and fire it up, but does still turn over easily 4-speed transmission Stock R200 differential 280z Front and rear strut assemblies Whale Tail Fiberglass front fenders with molded flares Rear flares ( will need to be molded in) Wiring, ECU, etc. (Wheels are sold)
  15. Hey guys, need some help with a little issue I have been encountering, and havent really come across a answer in the search section SPECS early 260 w/ sr20det light to mild mods(stock turbo) suby 2004 3.9 lsd rebuilt 240z axles wolf creek racing axle adapters MY BACKGROUND degree in automotive science six years working for Benz as a master tech ISSUE: popping noise & vehicle hops in tight turning reverse, forward motion turning, or taking off(normal load driving) breaking u joints HISTORY About seven months ago I decided it was time to replace the stock 260z diff after blowing up its guts, After much research I picked up a 04 suby lsd off ebay used, had the diff rebuilt at known shop(seals , pinion and ring gear replaced), and installed it into my 260z using wolf creek racing axle adapters and stock 240z half shafts with new u joints. The diff was filled with motul 90pa, fluid specifically made for that diff. After being proud of my swap, it was off to testing the diff out and performed the break in procedures including the 20 or so mile drive with letting the diff cool to harden the metal. Everything seemed ok, but after 50 miles I started to notice a clunking/popping noise coming from the rear end & and the whole car would hop(during clunking noise) as if you were driving with a flat tire. This would happen when reversing down hill from my drive way and turning, or making forward turns from a stop, or when starting to move under low/normal load, or making large 180 degree freeway off ramps turns. When I inspected the diff I found the side seals leaking oil, and wondered if their was something wrong with the rebuild. I took the car back to the diff shop, who actually started yelling at me and swearing when I told them the car wasn't right and I wanted them to check it out. I asked them to inspect not just the diff, but the drivetrain for binding. Before the rebuild the shop was told to spend extra attention to the clutch's, due to the cost of replacing clutches vs just picking up a new diff. Talking with the diff shop about the problem, I asked again about the clutches, turns out they did not torque test the clutches or test the clutch adjustment, just visually looked at them and demand them ok. After a week at the shop, it was time to pick up the car. the shop said they drove the car all over and said the noise was due to no lsd additive and the wrong fluid. I showed him the suby recommended fluids and the motul site indicating that it wasn't needed, and he basically told me to GTFO and that he was perfect. Leaving the shop, heading home, within 20 miles, the diff starting popping around the corner and I lost the passenger side half shaft at the inner U-joint. The car ended up sitting for a month or two due to my schooling and work demands keeping me out of the garage. Last week I finally found time to swap the axle with a spare one I had laying around. The car seemed to drive ok for about 15 Miles, until I reversed out of a parking space making a corner....then the infamous popping noise came back. You can spin the tires free hand in the air, and you feel light resistance then a little moderate then light again, but I think thats just from the brakes(doesnt look like the axles causing it) MY THOUGHTS: I don't know if the clutches are causing the wheels to lock up and cause this issue, but that seems kinda unlikely. I am leaning more to an issue with the axles coming out of the diff at to much of a angle causing them to bind when rotating. The adapters seem to stick out a little far for my liking, but I have not seen a photo of them installed on another car to see if this distance is normal. However other people run this set up and haven't mentioned this concern. I would love to swap the axles out to cv joints, but have not found a shop that builds custom axles( I want the axle to have a suby inner to eliminate the adapters and reduce the angle), and honestly I'm pretty over spending a crap ton of money on this thing(I'm a paramedic student, poor as hell lol). I am also reluctant to spend over a grand on axles, knowing that this may not fix my issue....sooo hard to justify that one just yet. CALL TO ARMS!: This whole situation sucks, I spent days swapping the motor, and building the car, and now this issue, ugh. I'm ready to kick this car to the curb, but before my last straw breaks, I am humbly requesting assistance. Any ideas would help, any experience with this swap, any pictures of adapters installed, ect. I am located in the bay area and the only real rear end shop near me happens to be the one that told me to GTFO. I can try and get pictures or a video over the next few days if that will help anyone whos interested in this challenge.
  16. Wanted 81-84 Maxima R180 Differential w/ or w/ out CV axles from an automatic (3.70 ratio). If you know or have a lead on one please let me know. Needed for the 810 project. Thanks,
  17. Hi all, long time lurker, first time poster here. Quick intro: My name is Dirk, I have a '73 240Z and '70 510. The 510 is the car I've learned to wrench on since I got it a few years ago. The Z has become my rolling project and daily driver since I bought it about half a year ago. Powertrains are stock-ish on both but I'm planning an L28 NA build for the Z. I'm fairly mechanically inclined and have completed a bunch of moderately challenging projects on both cars, but I'm entirely self-taught and far from an expert. My questions: I'm getting ready to swap a Subie R180 Torsen diff from an '08 STi into the Z, a fairly fresh used diff and the betamotorsport stub axles are on their way to my home, as well as a Ron Tyler mount while I'm in there, and I've done a bunch of research on the swap so far. This is the best illustrated how-to I could find on the swap: http://inzane240.blogspot.com/2014/01/subie-r180-install.html At this point, everything but swapping the input flange seems really straightforward to me. The best thread I could find on that topic was this one: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/90321-r200-clsd-mounting/ But since that thread is about a different diff than the one I'm going to use, I'm not sure if the same tolerances and advice apply. I'm asking specifically for advice on how to retighten the flange nut in the best possible way so I end up with a safe, reliable set-up. What I believe so far is: The flanges should swap straight between my stock open R180 and the Subie R180 I can remove the nuts for the flanges on both diffs with an impact I might need a puller to get one of the flanges off, but probably won't When putting the Datsun flange on the Subie diff, I should put red loctite on the nut and tighten it to around 137 ft-lb The Subie diff doesn't use a crush washer for preload of the bearing or anything complicated like that, so no to count rotations of the nut when coming of, or to measure flange thickness. I can just tighten to spec, and then just check that the diff still rotates freely. If you see any errors in the above, please let me know. Now the next steps are where I'm getting a little lost and this is where my lack of expertise as a mechanic shows: When tightening the nut with an impact, it's really easy to overdo it. But when trying to using a torque wrench the diff will spin before tightening that nut. I see a few possible options to do this, and would like to hear your recommendations (or if you know of an alternate approach that I've overlooked, even better): Put the diff on a bench, put the flange in a vice. This allows me to tighten the nut with a torque wrench without spinning the input shaft. (seems like the best option. only worry: damaging the flange with the vice). Assemble input flange but don't fully tighten it, install the diff in the car, connect half-shafts to it but before connecting drive-shaft, put on the parking brake, raise car again, and tighten the input flange nut to spec while on the car. (seems like the surest option as long as I don't forget to tighten the nut. worry: seems like a hassle and means that if anything binds internally after tightening – e.g. seal against flange – I have to remove the diff again) Just jam the nut on there with my impact driver (I have an electric one that's capable of delivering somewhere between 150 and 250 ftlb of torque), even if that over-tightens the nut. (quick and dirty, worry: damaging something by over-tightening) Approach 3 is what Jon Mortensen recommends in the above-mentioned thread, just get it RFT. But since that's about a different type of differential than the one I'm working with, I didn't want to assume the same advice works equally well for the Subie diff. I'm leaning toward option 1, since it seems the most straightforward way to get to spec. Option 3 also makes sense to me because I'm probably going to use a similar approach to tighten all the other nuts to spec (half shaft to stub axle, drive shaft to input flange). Any advice or recommendations appreciated, thanks!
  18. Cleaning out small collection of body parts for series I and II 240Z. All relatively straight and rust free. Hoods have paint and may, given their age, have some bondo. One 280Z hood with side vents. $100.00 each one other than the series I hood. There are arcane differences between the early Series I hoods that only excite a true restoration freak. But for HybridZ, I'll take you for only $125.00. Buy it, primer it, and sell it on "that other Z site" to someone who really treasures a hood manufactured sometime before early 1971. Grills for Series I and II. All relatively straight and rust free. None are perfect or show quality. But if the top two horizonal elements of your Z's grill appear to have been straightened by an inebriate, then I, and a can of Krylon, can help. $75.00 each. Two differentials: one is a R180 that turns freely by hand [i believe this to be a 3:36]; the other is an R200, 3:54 that is frozen [does not turn by hand]. A young helper thought he was doing the right thing by painting the outside and draining the lubricant. Unfortunately he used solvent/gas to clean and half a can of WD40 to lubricate before he closed it back up. This might best be used as an anchor; but, then again, it is a 3:54:R&P and might be salvagable. Price for both as a pickup $75.00. I am looking for an early 280 Z gas tank in rust free condition and no large dents and the air conditioning bracket and compressor sold by John's Cars out of Texas. If you have either of these, email me at fnw0022@aol.com. Let's palaver. g
  19. You guys are pretty on top of correct info, so here it is set to the experienced. I have two r200's out of a 76 and 85 both being 3.54 and found out its not going happen finding 3.9 r & p gear anywhere. At least I have the turbo cv shafts now . So now im on the prowl for a 3.9. My 260z late model is going be cruise, fun, proud car to own, not track or drag. It's going have the ls1 t56 or auto tranny. I see that one guy has a pretty cool bolt on set up for a ford 8.8 irs but going keep an eye out for a r200 for now. May even just grab a 80-83 MT NA r200 pumpkin being they are all 3.9, just not an lsd. ....So here is my question. I have read sites saying the r200 ratios for the 87-89 300zx NA being 3.9 and the turbos being 3.7 lsd...as the link from this site send you. Another site says they are all 3.7. The 4.11 would be fun but might be too much for what im going do with it. I realize i can just pop every cover off every one i see in the yard and check numbers on gears, but rather not until i think i have the right one..lol Save me from the insanity.
  20. Hi, Looking to buy a transverse mount for an R200 swap into a Series 1 240z. Preferably in the SF bay area or in California so I can drive and pick it up/cheap shipping. Thanks, Liam
  21. So I've reached a point where my research capabilities are failing me. I want to use an OS Giken Superlock in my longnose r200 (I know there is some mention of bushings to match bolt sizes? Not sure, but my diff builder said it was no issue). I know they have one for the 240Z R180, but there is no specific mention of one for the R200 from the 280Z. Are there any other long nose R200s that are identical such that a posi made for it would work in my current housing? I will be running the AZC suspension/brakes all around, 19 inch wheels in the rear with 305/30/ZR19 Hankook RS3s. Thus, I am also trying to figure out which rear end gear ratio to use. I'm rebuilding this diff right now and I want to do it right the first time. I should be making around 600rwhp (HCI LS7). My plan is to use the 2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1, .8, .63 T56 Magnum (I think the taller 1-3 ratios will help with traction). The car will be a fun HPDE car for road courses, but will make the occasional trip to cars and coffee (Performance is more important than low cruise rpm). The car will not see the drag strip. I know all of this requires a stout rear end setup, so I figured the OS GIken + AZC setup would be a good start. Any other recommendations are welcome. Not sure exactly how crazy I need to go axle-wise to avoid issues. Thanks in advance for the help -- I'm trying to do this once and do it right!
  22. looking for a clsd 3.7 or 3.5 diff from a 84'-89' 300zx .
  23. I'm looking for a good condition R180 to replace my worn out , clunking one on my 240z. Anybody have a spare one?
  24. Hello, I am looking for a mustache bar from a 280z or late 260z, has to be for r200. Sorry to all the people that contacted me before about this, I thought I had an r180 but as it turns out I have an r200. Thanks, Cooper.
  25. i have a 350 sbc in my Z and i want to know if someone here has an S10 differential and how it was installed.. i want to do the same to my car
  • Create New...