bryan01 Posted June 19, 2012 Share Posted June 19, 2012 (edited) Moving forward as if my previous HZ thread was practice, I'm going to group sections of my build here, by subject. I don't want to re-hash my detailed blog text ziptiedz.blogspot.com, or re-post my extremely consolidated daily build thread photo's 240z/rb blog. Both are useful in their own way, but I thought it might be helpful to try something new. Let me know what you think or if there's something you want to see, or see more of. Obviously no one wants to see less 240z build photo's, so the plan is to keep this less wordy with lots of photo's. I'll try to post the most relevant, possibly different than my build thread but definitely much more, all while keeping the size small so there shouldn't be loading issues (with respect to photo size, no promises about quantity). I'll also include the post links to keep things interesting if you want to see more about that day's work. So to get things started > motorset position, engine mount templates, and vibration isolators mounted like a rockstar rb mounted in the 28o z, fairly high and forward. action shot of rb going into the 24o z rb mounted in the 24o z, much lower and aft. but transmission hole and shifter still aligned perfectly initial blank template wood and hoist helping align engine for mount templates engine as far aft as logistically possible oil pan almost touching the cross member, and you can see the engine mount templates in this picture being tested lower shot of how far oil pan hangs below crossmember (the jack stands and wood are directly under the xmember) transmission squeezing between oem mounts manifold clearance to steering shaft lower mounted wg clearance alternator clearance oil filter clearance, or lack there of passenger mount template driver mount template, below manifold, above steering shaft mount templates (there will be 2 vertical connectors positioned at the test fit lines as marked, the cylinders represent the isolators) rough cuts, milling angles and holes of templates in 1/4" steel final welded engine mounts homemaid hockey pucks 4" m12 studs, grade 8 hardware for multiple contact surfaces when in use (anti-rotation, and isolation considerations) large end washers to be used during install, but also to hang stud in flexane mix so that center assembly is in the center of the isolator first pair of isolators, 2" diameter, 2" height, messy extraction second pair of isolators, use tape at lower mold hole, much cleaner and easier to extract final set of (4) fully assembled isolators, solid in tension via the stud, isolating in compression via the flexane94 Edited June 22, 2012 by bryan01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted June 20, 2012 Author Share Posted June 20, 2012 (edited) rb25 hoists, engine/transmission/isolator fabrication final some of you may recognize this manifold, and yes it's still in use! series1 rb25, precision sc61 t3/t4 neo transmission, series1 bellhousing (push clutch) engine mounts, 1/4" steel cut/milled from 1x1' plates, stick welded driver side installed passenger side installed engine isolators installed, drilled out stock opening engine isolators trimmed after several test fittings final engine drop close final fit may need oil filter relocation kit shifter location still great suspension/turbo peeking thru bonus trimmed transmission isolators, easier to pour correctly the first time but better thick to be able to adjust back one of two transmission tabs to create cradle lots more adjusting final transmission mount using oem car side tabs (with precisely milled holes instead of approximate slots), 1" dia tube, o.12o" wall pre assembly mid assembly final assembly mounts in the raw turns out the clear coat wasn't sufficient mid stripping cleared, again installed, again Edited June 20, 2012 by bryan01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 (edited) tires, wheels, spacers, lugs new sticky rollers hoosier r6's 255/45/zr17 (rear's), 245/45/zr17 (front's) rota grid's 9.5x17et12 (rear's), 9.0x17et12 (front's) mounted. bam. spaced clearance, or lack there of fine tweaking 1o mm hub centric, wheel centric spacers (front only) wax off... wax on. clearance dropped suspension. surprisingly, the coilovers are only adjusted 1/2 way pinch may need to be scalloped nuts the prettiest they'll ever look. nrg's. aluminum, extended, matte black Edited June 22, 2012 by bryan01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 (edited) a 24o z, post strut sectioning/coils overs/camber plates one sunny day Edited June 24, 2012 by bryan01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 (edited) suspension including strut sectioning, coilovers, camber plate install, parts from techno toy tuning tuck slam scrap techno toy tuning ground control kit, 4oo#/35o# rear to front, 8" eibach race springs, camber plates, roller bearing front top hats 7" collars to be positioned at top of sectioned strut casing idea of how they work assembled. wheel and tire fitment without coils installed. short tokico illumania 5 way's one of four was a tight fit and needed some persuasion, for future reference, 24o casings are smaller dia than 28o's front fitment removed lower perches to test fit corners sectioning 1o1 tig welding sections and lower perches in place as measured, shortest possible for specific shocks all done. cut casing at oem perch point, put shock in, mark height. remove shock and put top end into upper oem section with gland nut and washers installed, mark height measure distance between two marks and remove this much from the strut casings, front and rear place lower perch and threaded collar over casing and pull collar to gland nut, positioning perch below it, remove collar and weld. note, use front and rear shocks to measure fronts and rears respectively camber plate welding. align camber plates with straight edge across the car thru center slot. trace pattern onto suspension column and cut about 1/4" smaller, trimming to test fit making sure bearing insert moves unrestricted repeat for the rears, peeling back oem vinyl and cleaning paint surfaces. welded on all sides until gap was too large to span some bend the corner down, but this wasn't going to be accurately possible in my garage, the plates were too thick but the final result was amazing, bending it would not have made me happy anyways as it would not be exact I'd rather have the plates flat, it's not like these welds are going anywhere anytime soon heavy clear coat over all welded and bare metal surfaces, including strut casings ftw. before install after install, apologies for late night phone pictures Edited June 24, 2012 by bryan01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted June 26, 2012 Author Share Posted June 26, 2012 (edited) extended studs, disc brakes, spindles, bearings, and caps what a stud start. everything off. prying between oem wheel studs to remove back rotor studs. these. scalloped 24o z flange with spacer attached. disassembled. removing oem studs with hammer. pulling new studs thru. extended studs, m12x1.5 arp. reassembled. x2 more grease. everything assembled, including new cotter pins. almost done. x2. more studs time to do the rears. knock them out with a hammer as with the fronts. pull new studs on with same nuts. man up! add new lug nuts i tried to order steel, but they sent me aluminum ones by mistake. oh wells. x2. when in doubt, bring it inside the kitchen and put it on the counter. rotors calipers bearings covers wheels and lugs note next time don't thread the entire lug nut on, it takes forever to remove x8 install rotor and caliper and wheel. in this picture the car is in the air on stands. the droop is significantly reduced by the shortened strut casings/shocks. front cotter pins and grease new bearing covers, make sure to start them evenly use a rubber mallet to tap into place install front wheels. future project borrow press to remove stub axles from 28o z rear suspension remove drum outer housings make fixture press out stub axle (remember to take inner nut off) half way there hammer and pry the second drum housing off, no need to pry the dust cover as attempted before close up. done. save the stub axles for a future project. Edited June 26, 2012 by bryan01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Nice...keep the pics coming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted June 27, 2012 Author Share Posted June 27, 2012 full rear suspension by techno toy tuning first half rear end removal pull beefy tires and wheels and start disassembling everything just fit above to go further pull exhaust. underside and suspension, everything's coming out RLCA mounts removed Drop mounts removed driveshaft removed front diff and front RLCA mounts removed remember to remove the cv halfshafts remove mustache bar mounts lower assembly, note suspension columns are still attached to the car, as are RLCA's 3oo zx r2oo lsd random fmic shot! xmas pile of parts including rear suspension (and front, and fuel, keep watching) RLCA's drop mounts and dogbone for finned diff r2oo longnose mustache bar azc solid r2oo longnose front diff mount arp studs installed above with non-marring socket that doesnt exactly fit between the lug nuts and wheels do to added thickness parts staged, yes, in the kitchen tide over parts staging moved outside sneak peak! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 full rear suspension by techno toy tuning second half twilight zone diff removed, suspension columns ready spindle pin fell right out! (with a bit of convincing) second one was another story, as it usually is should have known when i saw the lack of bushing and so it begins but the center section DID NOT hammer out take a break. originally the baby press did not work (12T) man-up press did not work either (20T) do it your damn self approach weakening the mushrooming effect by drilling the spindle pin, or at least directing it inward the 12T press worked in the end using a socket and a few extensions finishing inner hole about 1/2", 2" deep, taking the entire set of drill bits and an extra evening late night success clean up. living room antics yes, back in the living room greasing bushings helper. techno toy tuning is amazing, they marked the high/low sides of the bore not matched example matched example more grease assembly won't seat yet because the bushing actually seals with the block holding air, took vice to squeeze out cleaning squeaky antiseize, copper assembled with washers, measured to center wheel, or at least symmetric to the other side. x2, even replaced ebrake hardware outside again i love this shot close ups new spindle bolts greased poly bushings all new hardware yup, still not getting old rear top hat options short and not so short one more time before install old v new old v new installed, but the mount was actually backwards (facing forward), long story mustache bar spacer break. can't stop taking suspension pictures short top hats and springs installed close up 4oo #'s in the rear STOP IT before during after approved. gel locktite. installed. painted. and finned. suspension lift drop mounts first (but don't tighten the bolts all the way until ALL bushings are aligned and bolts started) ready for lift put big id washers on top of mustache bar bushings, ask me how i know they're different push into position align studs front solid diff mount correctly positioned rearward this time assembly together, without halfshafts 28o zxt cv halfshafts not where they're supposed to be lowered columns, which incidentally clear fenders without unbolting inner RLCA bushings back together dogbone above finned lsd cover cleaned RLCA inner bushing bolts wow. bedtime. coil threading ZERO droop adjusting coils ALL the way up. back on all four's and yes, that's the maximum number of images you can insert into a single reply on HZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 (edited) fuel tank pickups, braided lines/-an fittings, filter/pump mountings xmas planning hoarding, all aeroquip starlite lines and socketless fittings, -8 an aeromotive a1ooo fpr fuel tank removal stock vent hoses in trunk underside one strap two strap off spill out messy night fuel tank inside one oem off general idea, walbro 255 hp and summit 1o m FI filter pickup before trimming bulkheads -an lines teaser fuel tank inside two back to fuel pickups installing new pickup with bulkhead -an fittings without cutting an access port difficult and time consuming but amazingly clean results. bulkheads filter, pump, 2x walbro mounting kits, note flow directions lines assembled fuel tank outside new fill hose it looks worse than it is carefully remove vent adapter seal all connections with rtv new grommets on -an vent hoses sneak peak of rear tire clearances back to fuel old v new rtv utters -8, -1o, -12 respectively run front vent line thru sub frame fuel level sender again, rtv everything fitting to connect soft return, saving main hardlines, fuel rail, and fpr mods for later Edited July 4, 2012 by bryan01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted July 15, 2012 Author Share Posted July 15, 2012 (edited) wetsu fun welding vid Edited July 16, 2012 by bryan01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted July 16, 2012 Author Share Posted July 16, 2012 (edited) rawr first start vid dyno 28o z rb25 dyno vid bam. Edited July 16, 2012 by bryan01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.