Yeah, power goals are typically what ruin cars. I know I have ruined several cars balance with too much power simply because I wanted to say it had x power. My autocross 240Z that was routinely won local events did far better at 200HP NA than any higher power configuration. This car on boost will most certainly never win class due to the constant struggle between traction and boost... not to mention that due to the engine swap it will be against fully prep cars most likely. That's why I think I'll keep my goals to making this one a well balanced driver. Somewhere between 300 and 400 whp is probably where the limit will end up, but I'll build for more to avoid breakage.
I am planning to move to the VE head if I end up going down the Full Race path, especially if I end up going top mount with something like an EFR 7670 twin scroll (I don't want to go too big because even the over sized EFRs will lag). The flow alone on the VE would be worth it even without all the extra perks. The weak point of the oil system would be the next concern for me with that much money into the engine and accessories, so I think I would really like to move to a dry sump system (either name brand like Mazworx or a DIY). That way I would never have to worry about the system having one of the all too common SR killing starvation moments (although it should be unlikely with my increased oil volume, upgraded pickup, and better pan). If all these changes end up in the pipe line I will just drive the car for the year, get my suspension and drive train dialed in the way I want, then come back and pull the engine and do all the work. At that point I won't really care if the RAS caused any minor issues because I'll be replacing the whole head. If I don't go VE I will be doing a whole head rebuild and machining anyway, so I can address issues at that time.
Have you used one of the ISIS intake manifolds before? I have been hearing that they are just as good as the Greddy's as far as durability and require very little cleanup/modification. If that is the case, I think I may toss $200 at one to see how it works out... at a quarter the price it's hard to not just spend a couple hours cleaning up the casting/adjusting mounts. I would be replacing it if I go VE within a year and probably moving to be bigger TB setup at the same time, so the price point is just that much more appealing.
As far as tuning systems goes, anything can be learned and tuned, but why be the car someone learns on? The AEM will give more accurate tuning RPM band wise, some more features, and be a self contained unit. I may still decide to go with Haltech for even more tuning ability, but I doubt I will decided I want less control. I think this time I will actually have the AEM handle boost control as well. Just feeding wide band readings in is fine when you are tuning for a weekend race car or extra toy, but I like my vehicles like this one to be ready to drive 2,000 miles, race for fun, and drive home without any more worry than I would have with an OEM. When I come back to making my next car for experimentation/abuse I think I may go the Nismotronic route. Do they only tune in 500 rpm increments or can you get down to the 100 rpm level? I remember the last time I looked into them I think the big negative was the detail at which you could dig in the map that made me shy away.
Edited by CasperIV, 18 June 2013 - 10:05 AM.