Hello everyone, I figured I'd go ahead and start a build thread even though I'm at the tail end of the swap. Sorry for the long post hahaha.
A little history,
I first attempted this swap on a 260z I bought freshman year of college (2012). In that time I had an 05 Focus with a turbo kit I created and installed on my own near the end of high school. This was the car that initially got me working on cars due to the need of wanting something a little quicker and not having the funds to get something else. I learned as much as I could in that time with no real outside help minus the forums I visited and any research I did through google or talking to people. My other main drive was the fact I hated to pay for something I could possibly learn to do myself.
I became obsessed with the s30 chassis after learning about them in high school. I checked ebay and craigslist constantly in that time. I eventually came across a 260z that was about an hour away from me. Well I became star struck and purchased it for $1k.
Well a lot of time and money went into this car but the further I dug into it, the less of the car I found. I ended up parting it out but I did learn a lot such as how to weld and how to do body/metal work. So I guess it wasn't a complete loss. A major lesson I learned from this was to make sure you look at every inch of a classic car you are interested in. I didn't notice the many instances of tape covered in undercoating that was hiding massive amounts of rust.
Well a couple years pass and I still had the 2jz that I was going to use in the 260z. Well I sent the engine off to get built before I had decided on what I wanted to put it in. The engine was originally going to be put in an e46 m3 shell I acquired. Well I decided against this and found another Z, this time a 78 280 that was about 20 minutes away. This one was practically perfect compared to the 260. I made a deal and drove the car home, its longest trip since it was put away. The car had 53k original miles and basically sat for some twenty years from what I was told.
Now on to the good stuff.
Well as I stated, I went ahead and rebuilt the 2JZGE. What was suppose to be a simple rebuild with arp head studs and a thicker headgasket ended up with completely building the block with a more or less stock head (will be built eventually. port/polish, cam, etc). So I started with the removal of the engine after driving the car for a couple of months.
Test fitting the engine and 350z 6 speed with Collins adapter.
I ended up having to cut the stock transmission mounting points in order to move the transmission where I wanted it.
I was going to build my engine mounts but opted for the cxracing mounts as they were very adjustable. Quality was alright and not meant for a 350z trans but it worked.
I had slightly modded the mounting plates to lower the engine further but ended up reverting back to the mounting points it came with.
Next I built my transmission mount. I decided on utilizing the frame rails as the mounting point. I have 4, 1/2" bolts going through the rail and into the floor pan now. I'm going to go back and change this slightly as I don't feel it will hold up in the long run.
I went a little overboard in purchasing parts. I wanted to get it done for a pretty big car show that's local. Well that same day is my brothers wedding so no real rush now.
Next was some metal work.
I was originally going to cut out the radiator support but just removed as much as I could. I'll probably go back and reinforce this once everything else is in place.
The metal work isn't entirely done, but I believe I got the majority of the rust to stop it from spreading. I didn't fully finish up the areas where the headlight buckets attach because I'm not sure if I want to go back and media blast it when I send the car off or if I'm going to chemically dip the car.
Tacked up both strut towers.
Attaching the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate.
I put the engine back in.
I have another thread explaining how I deleted the power steering and a/c portions.
Turbo is a s366 Borg Warner with .91 A/R. I wish I would have bought the one with the 90 degree compressor housing. I bought an aluminum elbow but not sure if I'll have that welded or just use a silicone 90. Also I ended up having to use a 1" flange spacer for the turbo in order to have a 90 degree bend no matter which path I choose. If I didn't use the spacer I wouldn't really have any room as cylinder one's exhaust runner was hitting the compressors outlet.
Next came the wiring portion and the step i'm currently at. I decided to go with Megasquirt and more specifically Microsquirt. I already had the ecu from a BMW I installed it on and it does everything I need it to do. I should have probably gone with Megasquirt 3 with all the expansions but whatever.
What I made to hold my fuse holder, relays, and ecu.
The main goal of this project was to make a vehicle that was extremely easy to work on. It's one of the main reasons I stuck with an inline 6. I wanted to be able to remove the engine quickly if the need arose. So I utilized a bulkhead connector that would contain every wire (minus the alternator's 12v to battery) the engine had going to it. Instead of having to remove the harness, all i'd have to do is remove the connection from the firewall and the harness would go with the engine. I utilized AN fitting's for the fuel lines for this reason as well. Really the only other things that would need to be undone would be coolant lines and the mounts. The engine and trans would then be more or less ready to be removed.
Routing the wiring harness.
I also removed all the tape from the body harness that is in the engine bay. Removing 40 year old tape was not fun.
With some help we cleaned up the wires and removed any corrosion on the connectors we found. We utilized a mixture of vinegar and salt to remove the corrosion and baking soda and water to neutralize it.
You see the ecu tray mounted to the firewall using existing mounting points in the background.
Instead of covering both the engine and body harness with electrical tape again, I found this stuff at Home Depot. Its vinyl that only sticks to itself and fuses together after I think a day. I'll also be covering certain sections with a high heat resistant material since it'll be by the exhaust headers.
I want to keep the interior as factory as possible. Therefore I wanted to have the factory center gauges work. Luckily the pressure gauge is the same threading as it is on the 2jzge. it just needed an extension to fit the sender in place. The coolant sender for the factory Datsun gauge had the same threading as the stock 2jzge gauge sender did. However it didn't fit through all the way due to the 2jzge sender being thinner. However, I carefully enlarged the hole and was able to thread in the l28's sender.
Some more wire routing.
Here's where i'm currently at.
I'm using the gm truck coil packs with the built in igniter but utilizing the stock distributor for timing purposes only.
I'll keep this as updated as possible with my progress. I really only work on the car on the weekends due to school and work.
Thanks for reading!
Edited by Shock_Strauss, 01 May 2017 - 10:17 AM.