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Geno750 last won the day on June 11 2018

Geno750 had the most liked content!

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About Geno750

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    Destin, FL

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  1. I'm really curious about that fuel filler setup you have going on, and what you settle on for the dbw throttle pedal. You're right, the Z one is kinda out of place down there. I'm using a 350Z pedal and tb, and looking at options.
  2. Hey Buddy

    just saw a post where it looks like you have a adapter plate to use a T56 to the T5 bellhousing.. dud you make it or is/was the a supplier for it?

    Thanks, Glenn

    1. Geno750


      Sorry I didn't see this. My adapter plate is for a J1 auto transmission bell housing from the 2JZ/1JZ. Came out of Australia. 

  3. 7M-GTE CPS or replace the cover on the distributor and use it as a CPS sensor. Drift motion makes the cover, the 7M CPS is getting harder to find.
  4. I've been wanting to do this for a while. I've already swapped to a dbw throttle body so front wheel speed is all that's needed for me to setup traction control.
  5. New job has had me busy till recently. Might have to do some work on the hood latch. If I wasn't running IGN1A's this wouldn't be an issue. Main thing is it's in there and it's straight. Also started on the rear end.
  6. I'm putting one behind my JZ. You'll want a 4.1 or higher final drive if you want normal gearing with most of the available gear ratios. Shifter alignment with the stock hole is actually pretty good. Especially when you get the motor as far back in the engine bay as possible.
  7. It depends to be honest. I was in a unique spot and had a guy wanting my 1JZ head for a 1.5JZ. I wanted to build up the block and head to ensure I could have a longer powerband, and it seemed easier to just start with a better flowing head with a lot more aftermarket options. Doing it all at once meant I could do things like buy 11.5:1 pistons which only net you a static cr somewhere around 9.2:1 with the 2JZ head.
  8. The block is physically longer on the 2JZ so it's water neck outlet was designed around the longer pipe. The flange where it bolts to the head is also different. I ran into a few interesting issues when doing a 2JZ head swap into my 1JZ block and that was one of them. Here's an older photo to show it's doable with the right combination of parts.
  9. Yeah I'm going to weld it. I've put the motor about 2cm off the firewall.
  10. Two foot surgeries later, I can work on the car in spurts before having to take a break. Here's what I've done over the last few weeks. Finished making the TR6060 from Oz into a T56 Magnum (only better). Got my twinplate clutch in. Went with a Spec twin, and I'll be using a Tilton slave to avoid the disaster that plagues the Spec TOB's. The Spec and like most other twin plate clutches use a thin flywheel that isn't compatible with the standard bolts we buy. Not wanting to grind on ARP flywheel bolts, or buy a set that someone else ground away on I went
  11. I've been wondering the same thing about the stubs. If yours are out, take measurements. I've got my S15 helical and stubs on my work bench and can compare.
  12. I didn't like a lot of things with the mounts. The biggest were how far forward the motor sits, the positioning/lean of the engine in the bay. I can confirm that the Supra store and Greddy manifolds fit with a larger turbo than a GT35 series on them. So if you go that route you'll be fine.
  13. I'd avoid any of the log manifolds, like the PHR street torque. Also, if you haven't bought the CX mounts yet, I'm going to be selling mine. I switched to the weld in crossmember style mount.
  14. In the grand scheme of things, the cost to balance a rotating assembly is pretty low, and is worth doing. Especially if you're changing out the clutch/flywheel and crank pulley (unless using a Fluidampr pulley).
  15. Hey at least you can use your printer to make a pedal stop.
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