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seattlejester's 2jz swap info

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#21 seattlejester


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Posted 06 March 2017 - 04:13 PM

Water pump:

There are three water pumps you will encounter from what I have found. One is the JDM spec 2jzgte water pump. This has some additional bits I believe to drive a little radiator fan that is offset from the main fan. It is advised to swap this for a USDM model.


In the USDM spec you will find the VVTI and non-VVTI pump. The VVTI pump has a smaller diameter for the center of the pulley and M6 size studs, non-VVTI has a a larger diameter for the center of the pulley and M8 size studs.



VVTI on top, Non VVTI on bottom


The pumps are composed of two main sections the front which contains the pulley and the impeller, and the back which contains the thermostat and bolts to the block. When replacing the front pump make sure you are buying for the correct pump body, the bolt holes will not line up for the most part.


When replacing the water pump there are 5 replacement pieces that should be replaced. The thermostat, two o-rings on the water pipe, one o-ring for the flange to the head, and one o-ring for the pump body to the engine block. Using hand soap for the o-rings is a nice trick to get them to slip in without ripping or smashing the o-rings on the thermostat and water pipe.



Image of thermostat, water pipe o-ring (second one is in the connecting neck not visible), and the connecting neck o-ring on the flange.

Edited by seattlejester, 02 May 2017 - 11:11 AM.

#22 seattlejester


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Posted 21 March 2017 - 02:12 PM



Ultimately depends on your goals, budget, and what you are comfortable with. The function of the ECU is to control when fuel is injected and how much fuel is injected at certain parameters. Given the sensors required most ECUs will also control spark. Some people have fairly reliable setups with running piggy back units and signal modifiers, however this is really a bandaid, tricking the ECU to supply the desired voltage. 


Stock: The stock ECU has a bit of room built in. I haven't messed around with it much nor have I looked into it, but on many turbo cars the factory sets the AFR values fairly conservatively as well as timing values. Hopping up the car on the stock ECU you are just playing in that safety margin. 


SAFCI/II: These are signal interceptor/manipulators. It basically intercepts a signal that the ECU uses to determine how much fuel to add and modifies it allowing the stock ECU to run bigger injectors at idle and add enough fuel under boost. These units usually do not do anything with spark and timing. The 2jz-gte apparently has a pretty mild timing curve and can use this system for a modest boost up, but it is really a poor way to accomplish the goal, a lot of shops won't even tune on these as it involves using a directional pad and tons of time just moving values up and down.


VPC: Another signal interceptor/manipulator. This one is a bit more advanced as it comes with two different sensors to bias the input. Still a fairly poor way to accomplish a goal. This one is adjusted with knobs.


Megasquirt: More of a DIY ECU setup. You can buy a board for as cheap as $250 and assemble it yourself or use a company like DIY autotune to buy a preassembled board along with all the accessories you will need. This is a genuine engine controller, capable of controlling spark, running maps, idle control, and lots of other features.








Additionally you can buy an older setup if that is something you are willing to do. The 7mgte is also a 3L Turbo Inline 6. The CPS will bolt to the head and the ECU doesn't need to know if this is a 7mgte or a 2jzgte. I imagine the same could be true for other 6 cylinder setups. Running the Z31 V6 ECU on the S30 L6 has been a fairly long staple for example. With enough thought the world really is your oyster.

Edited by seattlejester, 21 March 2017 - 02:16 PM.

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