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seattlejester last won the day on May 12

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About seattlejester

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  1. Interesting, we could probably swap setup notes, I too have LC-1 and a megasquirt with individual coil packs, although on a 2jz. Ever do anything with the brakes? The 4x4 "upgrade" feels a bit light at times. Like you can definitely slow down or stop, but it can be quite the effort. Glad you found your solution. I guess understand that the traffic is a bit lower than the past, and some people have moved on in life (RIP) or in pursuits. Help those who remain or check in by making things organized and such even if it is tedious. Sometimes it is hard to grasp who the person asking is or what they have figured out.
  2. I think asking for $1000, and being happy with $500 might be what to expect. Unless the interior is complete and immaculate. Or all the missing parts are stored elsewhere. Depends on the area though, if you have the only early 240z for miles you might have more value to someone close by.
  3. I'd make sure to go over it. Brake lines are important, and if they corroded I would imagine a full replacement of the soft and hard lines might be a good idea.
  4. That is a nice looking Z! I personally really like the snow flakes especially in the 80's color scheme with the gold accents on the wheels. 17's are on the bigger side, you can get them in the same wheel height the sidewalls do get a bit on the thin side and depending on the rim style it can be a lot for the car. The wheels on the GTI are reminiscent of BBS wheels. I'm not sure of the exact model, maybe the BBS CH-R?
  5. Hey Luke, Looks like you posted in the FAQ section, I've moved your post into the wheel and brake area of the forum so people can reply. Cheers.
  6. Welcome to the forums! I noticed you made a post in the FAQ section of the forum. The section does not allow for responses, so I moved your post to the technical section. Take a moment and make sure you are posting in the correct area for responses. You may have to look through the wheel thread. To find a specific setup, or if you find wheels with the correct offset using those in google search using hybridz as the filer may find you more pots. Maybe one of the wheel guy's will chime in. Make sure you read the forum rules and introduce yourself in the new member's section, hope you have a good time.
  7. Thanks for taking things in stride. The title change I'm sure helps. The point on semantics is pretty clear, if you search combo switch as per the previous title, it brings up hundreds of links to the headlight combo switch, and a few on the blinker/high beam combo switch which are a very common problem. Switching relay module or mult-function relay per the part number brings up much fewer, but more specified posts, using the part number you get very very specific, but few posts. If someone else in the future is looking for the same CA specific relay switching module for the blinkers or turn signals it should now pop up and you will potentially be their savior pending the solution. Don't worry you aren't alone, when I announced I had ordered pipe for my tubular control arms, people were quick to correct me or to make sure I was using the right material. In my mind I know I meant tube, DOM A513 to be specific, but coming from fluids and flow I was thinking pipe, slip of the fingers and now I had to sit and try to convince people I wasn't trying to build structural components from used rusty drainage pipe. I think it is clear now that you are looking for the CA specific switching relay module/multi function relay, or a work around for that. In the early cars the lack of relays did send a lot of amperage through not so great connections, so I would suggest maintaining a relay point rather than a direct wire unless you are using low amperage items like LED turn signals. Pin it out and swap to a modern relay using male spade connectors to a 4 or 5 post 12v automotive relay. I have to say this forum was such a place, at least 9 years ago when I joined. My first posts I was dinged for grammar/capitalization. However, that is part of the character of this forum. You get a specified knowledge base that is immense, in return you may have to do a once over on your post and try and use the common term. So I will say don't throw the whole forum or forums in general under the bus. Keep in mind we could not be here if it wasn't for the generosity of donations and the hard work of those on the network end. We almost saw closure a couple years ago and then you would be relegated to searching through facebook posts. We are more oriented around engine swaps, suspension tech, and such. Looking for stock replacement parts, you may have an easier time on classiczcar as they are excellent at finding and maintaining the stock Z platform and will most likely have found a more bolt in/plug in solution if you are not familiar with pinning out relay wiring. You might try datsun parts and needs as there are a lot of Californian members, ratsun as well who may be able to find you a used replacement part.
  8. Semantics is a big deal on this forum. It is one way that separates us from other forums. Making sure an item is called the correct name that people recognize will go a long way. If you want I can edit the title of your post which directly asks for a workaround to the combo switch. Semantically it seems to be called a multi-function relay. The relays themselves seem to last quite a while, I'm still using several stock ones in my 71 that was in use till 2010. I would suspect as miles pointed out it may be the switch contacts on the stalk going out. The hazard lights switch has its own set of wiring so it may be acting as a red herring if you are using that as the reasoning in your train of thought. I suggest taking a breath, people are here to help of their own accord, it may be frustrating to seemingly answer the same question or when someone is caught on a seemingly unrelated point, but realize we need clarity to try and help. It may serve to help their train of thought, and it may seem tedious, but given the free help, maybe try being accommodating? It may serve better to have a post where you clarify exactly what you are looking for that you or others can refer to someone asking a question in the post. I can't answer as I've only looked at the early Z wiring in detail, but it seems odd for the blinker wiring to go through the floor so I can identify with others as to the confusion. I'm finding a note that the part number was used for a fuel pump relay, might be something else to check. I do know the pins are a standard spade connector so you could wire in a modern relay if you can pin out the contacts and make little adapter lengths, I've done that for some older plugs before. Identify power, ground, switch ground, switch power, and output. Then you can use any modern automotive relay.
  9. Welcome to the forums. That number does not match the part number of the transmission. I would assume a manual transmission? http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/AandBtranny.htm For physical identifiers https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2016-06-07/240z-transmissions-manuals-swap-possibillities/ Has a chart with that will decipher the part number if you have it, it should start with an F for a manual. You can pull the gauges out the back, they are usually retained by a bolt that will be difficult to get to and you may need an extra stubby wrench or socket. Pulling the dash might be a good idea if you plan on replacing all of them, but things like the tachometer are pretty easy to pull. The combination switch (on the right if I'm not mistaken) tends to go bad in the early Z cars, seeing as that is what triggers the dash lights I would try find a wire feeding the dash light and see if any power is running to it. Regarding the 3 way hose, it will need to see a source, in this case vacuum. You have one hose going to the distributor for vacuum advance, and another on the throttle body idle something or other or maybe anti-stall as you say (not sure, its been a while since I've looked at a stock throttle body) so the third branch should be a source of vacuum most likely on the intake somewhere.
  10. Welcome to the forums, I will say this is dangerously close to skirting the rules there. If you would like to sell your product please feel free to make a thread in the vendor forum. I do wonder if it is some exotic material that justifies the price. That may be information you wish to include in your own thread. If you would like there is even a wind tunnel section that I'm sure would benefit from the data backing up the performance.
  11. My problem with a similar setup was the EN12 being wired incorrectly and not receiving power and the rockers being out of adjustment not allowing for compression. With starter fluid you can bypass the fuel portion for now, but you still need spark and compression. Compression is easy to check, turn the engine over by hand, with the valve cover off and you should be able to hear the compression. Check the valve lash and adjust as necessary. Then you will have to check the ignition wiring. I will say some of the wires that can be made out in the background look a bit rough. I recall the diagram I found at first was wrong. I think I pulled from near the ballast resistor, I think we had to use a multimeter to find the correct ignition wire to the EN12 so that it would have the correct power and voltage.
  12. Miles also posted this image two days before this happened. I should have taken note: Equates to 9.9mm past the surface.
  13. Goodness I love this forum, you really can find everything. Quote from this thread: Pretty sure that is what happened. I measured what I did and found that I was sticking 13mm past the flange of the aluminum spacer at first, that caused the pre-load on the master and the exact symptom of the brakes coming on and staying on. Then on the side of the freeway I moved it down to 6mm past the flange and the car drove back with no problems. I have it currently set to 9mm which is in spec, but I will be checking for preload and complete release to make sure I don't run into problems again.
  14. Question, this picture is in reference to the flange on the master correct? So between this and the booster there should be the aluminum spacer right?
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