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seattlejester last won the day on February 7

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  1. Oh bummer I didn't get a chance to see this. My car is somewhere down there now in sunny california. In case you are still in the planning stage. Front sump will not work. You want the rear sump. Some people unscrupulously sell the mid sump as a rear sump on line. Study the pictures and find the rear sump. The pan setups are expensive new, so best source that soon via junkyard, recycler, ebay. Depending on your goals, if you are going bottom up build, then the SC300 non VVTI block is also a viable option. If you are going to do piston and rods then really any engine variant is open for use. I have a thread in this sub forum outlining some differences, it is word heavy be warned. Don't buy seats until you can physically try them in the car. The datsun setups is pretty thin and holds you at an angle. Other seats have built in angle and will result in you being lifted higher with your knees hitting the steering wheel if you aren't careful. People also run the shit out of these motors because they are "indestructible". I would at least take the pan off and take a look inside, if it is heavily stained heavily consider opening up the motor. Mine had super hard white deposits on the inside on the bottom of the valves very happy I opened it up. I also found it had the cross hatch even after 120k miles so I felt comfortable leaving the bottom end. Take this time to replace the main seals, cam seals, etc. Look up information on the front main seal and the oil pump. Now is the time if you want to install an uprated oil pump and the front main seal protector or retainer. Look into replacing the tensioner and idler pulley. Crank pulley is also known to deteriorate. Look into a replacement. The bolts are also done up a ridiculous amount from the factory prepare to use a massive impact gun or like a 10 foot leverage pole. The head bolts are also notoriously easy to strip. Buy the correct 10 sided bit and take time to clean out the head of the bolt of oil residue or you will round these bolts and you will hate your life. I would warn you away from the R154. It is pretty notchy and can have problems shifting into 1st and reverse and likes to grind. To make them better will require a trip to drift motion for better forks, and upgraded parts, but then you are looking at over $3k into the transmission. Consider spending $2k on a conversion setup to run either a BMW getrag from the 3 series or a Nissan CD009 from a 2005+ 350Z, they are much more affordable and regularly handle fairly large numbers, especially the CD009. Engine hoist Engine leveler Impact gun Transmission Jack Really tall Jack stands Jack Ramps Welder Basic tool set Steel stock plate 3/16 is my favorite for mounts Grinder Hammer Multimeter Extra wiring Tons of other stuff, but if you already started probably not as useful.
  2. Yup was finding sand in every crook for years after blasting a bit of the engine bay.
  3. Clutch master should work, I ran the stock one from the 240z on my R154. Depending on your fueling needs potentially. The lines are on the small side for future power. Core isn't as important as FPI from what I recall. 2 core worked fine for me. You will have to figure out the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, clutch fork reversal setup or standard setup etc. Don't go for super heavy pressure plates like ACT they can lead to crank walk. Trans mount will require quite a bit of work you will have to remove the cross member brace to make room unless you mount everything pretty forward. Depending on the trans you will have to look at shifter extension possibly. The AR5 is supposed to be better, but I really didn't like the R154 in shift feel. Difficulty getting into 1st and reverse. The toyota harnesses seem to corrode pretty easily and the engine wires get real brittle with exposure to oil. Plan on replacing sooner than later. Replace the seals on the motor while it is out. Go OEM it will cost a lot, but should give you piece of mind. There is a whole thing on the front main seal and the oil pump. Take time to research that now while you have access. Plan on replacing things like the idler pulley and tensioner setup.
  4. As long as you know your reason. Granted I can't imagine it being done very well on a budget, and to do it well would require quite a lot of sneaky plumbing which there isn't much room for in the trans tunnel. Most likely the pipes would have to be run in the car or the car would have to be lifted.
  5. Twin turbo and twin injectors are a bit out dated lately. Has it been a while since you have looked into tuning? Times have kind of moved on with more advanced ECU's that can handle large CC injectors at low idle, something like the 750cc you will most likely require shouldn't need a smaller injector for idle or anything of that nature. Twin rear mount on an inline 6 just seems gratuitous. A modern single turbo will have adequate spool characteristics or you can cheat with a QSV, but running two same sized turbos ala FD RX7, TT Supra, or the TT subaru that spool one then both at different times is quite a chore when modern compressor housings, twin scroll, QSV and such will bring most to a more than usable power bound. Most rear turbo setups are due to proximity of a rear mount engine, space, laziness, or style. Engine is in the front, you have ample space, the fabrication to mount the intercooler back there and the ducting to bring it back forward would indicate no lack of effort, so short of style it seems kind of silly. Echoed above, find the ecu the shop or shops around you will tune on unless you have a tuner or plan on doing it yourself.
  6. Also angle of force is important as well. If you see them blasting straight on at high pressure then that would be concerning. Co2 blasting was a thing mentioned when I looked into this a long time ago, no material to get stuck in cavities. Depending on your means and the state of the car having it dipped is an option in some places.
  7. There is some wear, but it looks like they still have their coating.
  8. Keep us updated. Like I had never heard rod knock in person, but when it happened, there was no question what it was. It physically hurt to listen to, but that may be my mechanical empathy. Check the gasket, it will show carbon if it is still intact where it was possibly leaking. Look for cracks. Also look for warping on the manifold. Last bit which is a bit rare is to measure the height on the flanges for the intake and the exhaust. If someone shaved the runner down at some point it might just be loose, you would need a stepped washer or to plane down the intake flange.
  9. Without any compression it might be more muted? When my motor rod knocked it was like someone rattling a can of bolts even at idle. No way I would have been comfortable putting my hands near the motor granted mine was catastrophic piston cracking, rod warping.
  10. 31 years is a long time for the motor to sit. Hopefully you at least swapped the oil out before cranking it over several times before actually starting the motor. Oil can take a long time to circulate especially if the passages are clogged. It doesn't sound like knock to me. Although microphones are really variable. I would suggest running a compression test. I wouldn't be surprised if the valve seals or something has dried up and making a super loud ticking noise and having the compression gas leak past the valve seal or something. The copper in the oil depending on the amount could be telling. It would be hard to tell until you take the motor apart. But if it was rod knock you definitely need to take the whole block apart and have it cleaned, those metal fragments could get stuck in passages and cause problems depending on how much the bearing deteriorated. Not doing the piston rings while you are in there would be silly. Having the head machined and a valve job with new valve seals and seats potentially replaced with non bronze seats would be a good idea as well. Depending on the rod knock you might find damage on the rod itself from overheating or the piston from wobbling in the bore. There is a method to doing all this as you can find out information each step of the way. I'd start with a compression test though. It could also be something silly like a blown out exhaust gasket or a cracked header. It is odd that the car is misfiring when you rev, makes it seem like there is more than one thing wrong like timing or firing order as well.
  11. Probably about 50 "interested parties," a lot of fall throughs or no shows. Lots of odd trade offers.
  12. This is a bit of a necro, but it is an interesting point. I always thought the ring gear was one of the stronger pieces in the rear drive line. With a 60 ft less than 1.6 I imagine some kind of slicks or drag radial? The 280z stubs are noticeably stronger/thicker/more splined than the 240z ones, but I didn't think they would shift the weak point. Perhaps since most cars in the junkyard I have seen have fairly high milage and I doubt any service of the rear end, perhaps they were all primed for failure, but the fact not 1 was found that was decent seems highly unlikely to support that thought.
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