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seattlejester

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seattlejester last won the day on May 12

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About seattlejester

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  1. Forum posts are pretty time consuming to assemble compared to snapping a picture and posting to facebook or instagram. For the effort, a youtube video would be more permanent and even result in some financial game if you could get it monetized. So that leaves those who do it to share. Who like the format and threading. Seems like fewer and fewer appreciate the standard. I know some forums have a wall type mechanism where someone can only see a post or two before having to sign up. I know some others have gone completely behind a pay wall with an annual fee allowing access. Not sure that fits the technical discussions that we have here. I like to think keeping it open allows anyone to feel like they can contribute. I will say when I was on a Facebook page there were some who at every turn would downplay and warn people against visiting hybridz, like anytime it was mentioned. I've gone back and found some of the posts that seem to have triggered such anger and sometimes it is hard to see how it could spawn years of hatred, but yet every single post it seems like they find and comment how terrible a place it is.
  2. Looks like you got quite a bit of work ahead of you! The X bar to the trans tunnel is pretty standard to keep everything from twisting if you are cutting out the seat rails and such. Something seems a bit off with those welds, too much wire speed? Not enough heat?
  3. Quite the thread jack, but stock 3/4 throw is apparently the same as the one in the 350z if I remember. I'm using a wilwood 15/16 if memory serves.
  4. I enjoyed that immensely! FPV footage was neat as well, hope to get decent enough and try my hand at some chasing sometime.
  5. With the amount of tweaking involved in fitting a CD009 I would suggest having it all fitted how you want it before going too far assuming the chassis is workable. I had to widen my trans tunnel, hammer a few portions, cut out the trans mounts, and weld in new points. Taking off cheap paint/undercoating was annoying enough, can't imagine having to attack 2k primer not to mention cracking it in areas where the tunnel was hammered or the trans tunnel was stretched. As others have said, plan it all out. Doing things twice on paper is far cheaper than doing things twice in real life.
  6. I think the price is on the high side. For a little more you could get wolf creek axles. For a little bit more than that you could actually buy a whole turbo car in my area and that could have an LSD as well.
  7. Hmm twisted wires is always a bad sign but you can't just replace a fuse and expect it to work again. Generally that means something caused the circuit to take in more amps than was deemed necessary. If you weren't the cause of it ala jump starting the car or kicking a power wire to ground or something then you have to trace the fault. In this case three of your circuits were overloaded. You have to find if they have a common fault or if it cascaded as one fuse blew if it caused other circuits to overload. Looks like you have a megasquirt with a relay board. All the wires will be labeled so find where the fuse blew and trace the wire back or forward until you find the fault.
  8. You'll have to scroll down or go back a few pages or it maybe in the build section, pretty sure it was a TKO. Nelsonian maybe? I think the CD00X are still made where the older T56 usually used for swaps stopped in early 2000. I found CD's for like $700 in multiple locations with a warranty. Friend took his to a shop to have it machined for his swap and they asked if it was new with how clean it was, both had over 100,000 miles. T56 were going for no less than double that with no warranty, as is status. Collins makes a couple adapter kits, I think the cheapest variant is like $1000 for an adapter plate, flywheel, adapter parts and clutch. They do a swap now with the automatic bell housing from the JZ and it is even easier to fit, install, etc in that form. Throw in triple syncro, 6 gears, lots of clutch choices, and there is a lot to like. Several people push these into like 800hp territory or higher. Downfall is size and gearing. It is massive, especially the bell housing, and the gearing is pretty short. It would be a better fit with a ford 8.8 with like a 3.1 or a 3.3. With a 3.7 I turn a little under 3k at pretty fast cruise. Keep in mind still gets pretty good milage on a JZ even at that RPM.
  9. That is a point, with my motor placement I think I had 9 inches and the first runner was like 11 inches out. Hence the tubular FFIM on my car.
  10. I'm pretty sure we have someone on the forum doing something pretty similar although I think his is from a late model mustang. Cd009 is also a 6 speed option, we have a few guys with that going on.
  11. Hello, I have two FS posts that wont work because of a weird issue. Could you edit the title or delete so I can re-create? It's for CV's 

  12. It has a frame structure, but not a removable rear sub frame. With the spare wheel well and gas tank removed you have quite a bit of room back there. There are some 3d models of the chassis floating around. Modern sport suspension and steering is a pretty different animal. You can get pretty sporty handling out of these cars, but what they have going for them is light weight. If you add 1000lbs up front in batteries you are going to really be stressed to find suspension to compensate. This has been done a few times. You may have to do some digging, I know a couple locals that have done the ZX's I know someone on here did an S30. Might want to consider a tube chassis with a body on top ala "B is for Build" where he did a tube chassis and welded the body to it.
  13. There was some discussion on here about this although I recall it not coming to a consensus.
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