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seattlejester

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seattlejester last won the day on October 31 2019

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  1. Also angle of force is important as well. If you see them blasting straight on at high pressure then that would be concerning. Co2 blasting was a thing mentioned when I looked into this a long time ago, no material to get stuck in cavities. Depending on your means and the state of the car having it dipped is an option in some places.
  2. There is some wear, but it looks like they still have their coating.
  3. Keep us updated. Like I had never heard rod knock in person, but when it happened, there was no question what it was. It physically hurt to listen to, but that may be my mechanical empathy. Check the gasket, it will show carbon if it is still intact where it was possibly leaking. Look for cracks. Also look for warping on the manifold. Last bit which is a bit rare is to measure the height on the flanges for the intake and the exhaust. If someone shaved the runner down at some point it might just be loose, you would need a stepped washer or to plane down the intake flange.
  4. Without any compression it might be more muted? When my motor rod knocked it was like someone rattling a can of bolts even at idle. No way I would have been comfortable putting my hands near the motor granted mine was catastrophic piston cracking, rod warping.
  5. 31 years is a long time for the motor to sit. Hopefully you at least swapped the oil out before cranking it over several times before actually starting the motor. Oil can take a long time to circulate especially if the passages are clogged. It doesn't sound like knock to me. Although microphones are really variable. I would suggest running a compression test. I wouldn't be surprised if the valve seals or something has dried up and making a super loud ticking noise and having the compression gas leak past the valve seal or something. The copper in the oil depending on the amount could be telling. It would be hard to tell until you take the motor apart. But if it was rod knock you definitely need to take the whole block apart and have it cleaned, those metal fragments could get stuck in passages and cause problems depending on how much the bearing deteriorated. Not doing the piston rings while you are in there would be silly. Having the head machined and a valve job with new valve seals and seats potentially replaced with non bronze seats would be a good idea as well. Depending on the rod knock you might find damage on the rod itself from overheating or the piston from wobbling in the bore. There is a method to doing all this as you can find out information each step of the way. I'd start with a compression test though. It could also be something silly like a blown out exhaust gasket or a cracked header. It is odd that the car is misfiring when you rev, makes it seem like there is more than one thing wrong like timing or firing order as well.
  6. Probably about 50 "interested parties," a lot of fall throughs or no shows. Lots of odd trade offers.
  7. This is a bit of a necro, but it is an interesting point. I always thought the ring gear was one of the stronger pieces in the rear drive line. With a 60 ft less than 1.6 I imagine some kind of slicks or drag radial? The 280z stubs are noticeably stronger/thicker/more splined than the 240z ones, but I didn't think they would shift the weak point. Perhaps since most cars in the junkyard I have seen have fairly high milage and I doubt any service of the rear end, perhaps they were all primed for failure, but the fact not 1 was found that was decent seems highly unlikely to support that thought.
  8. Welcome to the forums, Looks like you posted in the FAQ section, this section does not allow for responses, so please take a moment to make sure you are posting in the correct section if you would like to see a response. Take a moment to peruse the rules, read up on some of the announcements and I hope you enjoy your stay! The link you mentioned for others to find
  9. We talk about the setups in there. My thoughts on it, take from it what you will.
  10. They might be kind of close to the inner perch, but with a spacer they would work.
  11. I'll say I still have much to learn, but adding the pedal has made it much less binary and added a depth to it that is interesting. Still terrible with aluminum. Those projects look real great!
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