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seattlejester last won the day on February 7

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About seattlejester

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  1. Like a GT3576? Turbo nomenclature is so odd. Technically my turbo was also a 76mm turbo, but with a massive 57mm inducer I would say it was anything, but laggy. Almost like a supercharger with how quickly it built boost, but pulled all the way to a panic inducing redline. Also loosing over 1000lbs from the Mk4 supra to an early 240Z is nothing to laugh at, might actually be hurtful in some way since there will be less load to spool the turbo quickly. Always happy to talk shop!
  2. I hear ya, if money isn't a problem then I would say the V160 would be a real nice transmission. The CD009 from the later 350z's are pretty stout. Shift feel is decent, they also make self centering shifters for them which I am an all out sucker for, would probably make it notchy, but shifting mid corner I love being 100% sure I am going into 3rd or 4th. Stock they are infinitely better than something like the R154. Triple synchro and built strong enough to take more power than any sane person would throw at it. I got mine for $700, my friend who bought his took his to a transmission place to have the bell housing machined and they said the inside looked like it was new with 100k+ miles on it. Keep in mind both from the person you linked and myself, looks like we moved our motor back quite a bit. If you play with the location of the motor and shifter kits I'm sure you could end up in the right area. I had the R154 on the very left of the picture and that was about 2 inches too far forward so looks like with the serial 9 kit that would put the V160 in the right area and my engine was similarly with the first and second runner between the shock towers. I will say I had a few people with LS and supercharged V8's give my car a spin, and they were surprised how quick it was. They were coming from mustangs and GTO's but you have to remember your shifting half the weight. A 2JZ with 20lbs of boost under 4k RPM is a real hoot. Upgrading to bigger turbo's would be a commitment to running more than 400+hp and I can say from personal experience the number of roads where you can go all out definitely start to shrink. With my NA L28 with 4.11 I was driving around all out under the speed limit. I could run the engine out and shift 4 times before getting to free way speeds.
  3. Looks real good Omar, definitely the right choice!
  4. I had heim joints on all 4 corners and it was quite tolerable. I found both my FWD cars had more NVH from poly engine mounts than any I would get from the suspension. It is a bit more darty, but that is expected taking out the slop. That kind of locking tube design though is not really good in these applications. They use them a lot on drift cars, but they tend to crack and loosen often. For a road car I'd rather stay with a more traditional style and take a bent tube over a stripped arm. The plate design is also concerning especially with there the load is. H arm styles are also not ideal as Leon states. Apex engineering makes a good RLCA from what I recall. The one I made served me well, but doing it again I would probably have made one like Jmortensen did with the toe link in front.
  5. For cheap ITB's the GSX-R throttle bodies were pretty popular in the Honda crowd. They come in groups of 4, but are repeating so you could modify as needed. Some carbs on a 2J would be neat, a lot of effort for not much power, but would be a fun project. 6 SU carbs with velocity stacks would look real neat, but you probably could make do with less. If you have a 2jzge the lower intake runner would be an excellent starting place, some custom adapters and you would be in business. Probably run a thinner head gasket or shave the head and run a bigger cam, might see bit over 200hp to the wheels. Keep in mind depending on the motor that may put you into interference territory if you were not before. Probably one of the few times a 2jz-ge VVTI setup would be preferential, granted then you have a VVTI you would have to lock or remove altogether just for the higher compression. Interesting for sure, keep us updated!
  6. You can get a bell housing to run the T56 behind the 2jz would save you all kinds of effort. I think fitment kind of depends on the car. The early 240z's have the widest factory tunnel, I was able to fit my CD009 in there and only had to remove the transmission mounts, and mine is tucked way up there. Later 240z's and on will require the removal of the trans brace which sounds like you may have already done. ^That is an image from serial 9 (R154, V160 with their shifter, CD009 with their shifter, stock CD009), but according to that it looks like it would end up in the neighborhood of the stock area. My setup was was between the stock one and their shifter and it came up an inch or so into the choke cable recess area a few inches behind the stock shifter location. To play devil's advocate, LS motors can also be force fed..., but you won't have the rev limiter happiness and sound like a boosted 2j will have.
  7. 7m is great when it is running well. Make sure you have a dummy light or a good oil pressure gauge hooked up that you monitor religiously. A point to consider is a 7mge isn't that much better figure to figure compared to a L28E. I had a 7mgte JDM block without the oil squirters so I wanted to really go for it on the rebuild after blowing all the oil out on the freeway, but $800 for just the oil mods was a lot, on top of attempting to source a non-warped crank, and the subsequent micro fissures from the piston destruction kind of sealed the fate. My 2jz ended up being cheaper then the oil mods. Machine shop guy told me I was making the right choice, and even waved all the labor they had done on the 7m, and put it towards my 2jz if that is any indication of how happy they were for me. With that said, depends on how integrated you want everything to be. Without looking up the specs I don't know if the tach and speedo will communicate, but getting the engine running is as mentioned just a matter of a few wires to the Toyota harness. No one really likes to do wiring, but if you don't want to be chasing gremlins down the road, buy some decent tools and learn how to do it yourself, or shell out the money for a professional, although that may end up costing more than you have into both cars depending on where you go.
  8. Welcome to the forum, some of the pictures don't work, but looks like a fun project!
  9. Be wary of the 7M, everyone I met with who had one spun the rods at some point. Lots of oil restrictions, low oil pressure, and a pickup height that is on the high side can lead to mishap. Or just someone using cheap clamps on a remote oil filter... There is a video on youtube of a guy who goes over the wiring for his swapped truck. You need the ECU and the harness, including fuse and relay box, and you need to splice power to the ECU power, fuel pump, and general electronics (injectors, spark, etc). That is if you want to keep the stock ECU, my wiring harness was absolutely falling apart on mine so I abandoned it pretty quick.
  10. Mustache bar and diff mount from a 280z, pending year possibly axles from a later car. I think the front flange was the same. Drive shaft length shouldn't change hopefully.
  11. What NewZed says is on the spot. Just make sure the pedal is moving for the whole stroke and calculate how much the push rod is moving, not the pedal. Also bench bleed really well to save trouble. At least on the R154 it is also recommended to do a reverse bleed since the nipple sits in an odd spot, unbolt it from the transmission and manually pump the cylinder under the car to push the bubbles up to the top. JMortensen is also on the money with an adjustable clutch stop. I think you would feel the engagement point and you can adjust the pushrod to locate it towards the bottom, but you can add a stop at the bottom to prevent you from overstroking the slave.
  12. This is fun, I have to live vicariously through others for at least a few years. A simple relay is pretty easy to install, one thing to check for is if the ECU sends a power or ground trigger signal when wiring. If you plan on wiring yourself, make sure to get a good set of tools. If not, interview the person who will be doing your wiring. Ask what kind of tools they use and ask for a test piece. I rewired an "expert"s work before, took me twice as long to wire the kit, their crimps didn't hold for anything, and the color coded harness was cut up and the wires mixed up. 5 hour job took 15 hours, over 10 was spent undoing their "pro" install. Yes, for fuel I would say go on the bigger side within reason, I had to redo mine and they are not fun to get to, at least if you want to route them neatly. For non-boost you probably won't need an MLS type gasket, granted I like the fact MLS usually don't disintegrate over time like the cheap generic head gaskets tend to do. The toyota 2jzgte ones are MLS or solid steel from the factory if I recall. I definitely would do the crank pulley, remove it and do the front main seal and the rear main seal, and consider changing pulleys. These motors are old and the rubber will disintegrate over time. If you plan on doing megasquirt, you may want to consider changing to a replacement 1JZ pulley. Those have 4 holes, two of which are unthreaded, but can be tapped easily. That will make mounting a trigger wheel for megasquirt way easy down the road. Alternatively you can just get something like an ATI that has a trigger wheel built in. Not running boost actually saves quite a few headaches as well, you won't have to worry about things like the breathers as much, although drilling those out to something bigger and attaching it to a vacuum source would be nice. That could be difficult with ITB's though.
  13. Fuel pump control, fuel injectors, spark, etc. The Leash one is really nice, and if I'm not mistaken has the smaller form factor high amperage relays and resetable fuses. Resetable fuses are real useful in the teething stages and even down the road if you don't travel with a fuse kit. Edit: oops, yea what ^ guy said
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