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seattlejester

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seattlejester last won the day on October 24 2018

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About seattlejester

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  1. Hmm, did you have different inner tie rod ends or were they the factory ones with the tape on them? Both ones I have seen have a strange like 3 flats style, so I wasn't sure how you would get a wrench onto it. The new inners look like what you have and seem like they would take a big adjustable wrench.
  2. Ooh, interested to see how you get the tie rods off, I too have a set sitting in a box that I never got around to.
  3. Nice to see you on here! Maybe you will be enticed into something during your stay :D.
  4. I would not do the CJ cave adapters. The one made by the guy on here is more correct in the inverted offset design. mt nickel? (spelling incorrect) would be a better alternative. The drive axles are under a lot of rotation. Couple that with imperfections on the road and you get vibrations. I'm running adapters and even with loc-tite I find them loose every couple of months. I have yet to try red as I imagine they will need to come off at some point and I don't want to even think about trying to remove a sheered grade 12 bolt. The solution would be to drill the bolts for safety wire and run multiple lock mechanisms.
  5. You guys and your S300's are just nuts lol. Looks like a nice bit of progress!
  6. I'd echo the above, the stub axles would be my worry more so than the diff. I've tried drifting the Z in a formal setting and even in the hands of some experienced individuals it is a handful. Really short angle makes it hard to catch snap transitions. Not saying it isn't doable, a few people have done so, albeit usually with extensive modification, but it may be best to start or consider running more replaceable suspension if you are married to idea of Z drifting. That is convert to S chassis front suspension and consider a rear end swap either via TTT or a 8.8 conversion. Both options could be sorted on a budget with a lot of research and fabrication. Manual rack is going to be a bit trouble some on slow speed corners and when it snaps back in a Z it will be hard to catch and given where you sit (right in front of the rear wheels) it will also be disorienting. We stopped taking passengers real fast on the donut exercise, even the figure 8 was a bit much.
  7. My 0.02 for what it is worth. You may want to reinstall the seats and see if you have enough movement. I ended up cutting my bar and base out for an extra 2-3 clicks on the seats and I am not that tall of a person. That rear kick down is also pretty low. You don't see much out of the rear quarters, but that bar is smack right in the middle of it. Not to mention I don't believe you are supposed to have curvature on the rear legs like that if you think the cage will come into play at any point. An interesting thing I heard about the dimple die plates on cages from a builder was that it is the sign of poor fitment. While they look cool and have function, compared to having the cage butt right up to the pillar and if needed welding the cage directly to the pillar which is cleaner, saves weight, and improves visibility, the dimple dies are sub optimal. He said he uses them when he does cages for customers as the turn around is usually pretty fast or they don't approve of cutting access holes to drop the cage or for installs, but on personal vehicles or projects with more time he opts not to use them.
  8. NewZed is correct, GM bushing up top and the pyramid snubber on bottom. Not sure with the parts in question. T3 mustache bar I recall had a misalignment issue some have encountered. Using a snubber on the diff mount and the RT mount to hand the differential would allow for some adjustment. I'll search for that T3 thread in question.
  9. The dream is exactly what it is, no need for rationale behind it. Someone could want to put a 12 inch lift kit on a Z and take it rallying, and some may want it so low that lane dividers become obstacles. Whatever the dream is, is whatever the dream is. Granted, removing everything but the vin is quite extreme lol.
  10. My goodness, that is commitment!
  11. Had an interesting thought and was curious what others consider to be their dream build. Mine would be: Early 240z L28 with Datsunworks twin cam head ITB's Hoke CD009 adapter CD009 TTT rear end conversion Quite a bit different from what I currently have, wonder if others would have gone a different route or stayed the same.
  12. Hello, Welcome to the forums. Please take a moment to look over the Announcement section for general forum rules and quirks. Please note you have posted in the FAQ section which does not allow for responses. Take a moment to make sure you are posting in an appropriate area. For a full restoration a 10k budget is on the low end depending on how much you want to replace. If you are looking for a resto-mod depending on the route you go you could use that all on the engine and transmission easily. Take a look around at other people's builds and see what you want, whether that has to do with aesthetics (wheels, ride height, bumpers, etc) or activity (road race, drift, autox, drag racing, car shows). Do lots of reading, build lists, someone could tell you what they think is right, but that may not be right for you. Best place to start would be the condition of the car you have. Pictures will be helpful. For example if the car is rusty, you may end up spending 5k on rust repair easily. Generally a stage 1 "upgrade" would modernize the car a bit and would generally consist of: Replacement aftermarket shocks and springs vogtland (Sp) or KYB and tokico springs Rebuild of stock calipers and drums Replacement of brake lines, wheel cylinders, master cylinders Headers for the engine Fluid flush (coolant, engine, transmission, differential, brake, clutch) Energy suspension bushings (except for the tension arm, DO NOT use poly bushings there in the stock configuration) Alternator upgrade Headlight relay upgrade Interior and brake light relay/upgrade Inspection and replacement of drivetrain bushings, upgrade to RT style mount for the differential Inspection and replacement of U-joints in drive shafts Make lists and figure things out for things in the future, say having the stock EFI system rebuilt will not be cost effective if you plan on swapping to an aftermarket ECU and bigger injectors and aftermarket fuel lines down the road. Headers would be wasteful if you plan on swapping to an L28ET down the road. Plan well and don't do things twice and you can make your budget go a little further.
  13. If I could be so bold as to offer a suggestion. I would take this chance to use an RT mount style setup up top and a snubber on the bottom. Less leverage against the brand new T3 bar. There is definitely some variance as the RT mounts commercially sold usually have 3 holes per side to deal with the offset to help line up the differential.
  14. Welcome to the forums. Please note you have posted in the FAQ section. This section does not allow replies. I have moved your post to the correct section. Please make a note of the announcements for further information regarding forum quirks and rules. The FSM has a pretty decent wiring diagram for what you are looking for. If you are unfamiliar with wiring or the use of a material I would suggest at least getting very familiar with the FSM and the wiring diagrams enlcosed within. http://www.xenonzcar.com Also keep in mind fuel pressure mismatch you will be experiencing going from car to FI.
  15. Hello, Looks like you may have posted to the FAQ section which does not allow for replies. Take a moment next time to make sure you are in the actual forum section rather than the FAQ section, it has been an ongoing issue on the forum software. Brian
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