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seattlejester

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Everything posted by seattlejester

  1. seattlejester

    Fancy Rear Bumper

    I've seen someone use them as anchor points for I think a ski rack that goes along the rear hatch. Not a big fan of them either, the clean rear bumper is just right especially since it matches the front, the over riders just make the rear look busier then it needs be in my own opinion as well.
  2. Congrats! If you do plan on cutting the springs I'd just make sure to grab a set of metal CV ties to secure the springs so they don't fall off the perch or miss the hat on the top or run some limiters to keep the suspension from drooping all the way when you jack it up. I ran cut linear 280z tokico springs for a while in my 240z, but it consisted of lowering the car, stopping part way and slipping my hands between the wheel and the arch to align the spring then lowering it the rest of the way. Good way to loose a hand if it unsettles suddenly.
  3. The cosmos run a pretty stiff spring, the suspension felt crashy for lack of a better word. @Boog has/had them on his car so he may chime in. The car I was in was lowered a fair amount though so a lack of travel could be the culprit. You can install the cosmo's "correctly," in that you remove the spring perch and you can weld a perch for them to sit on, they come with some allen set screws as an install option, but I really would not want to trust a few grub screws to hold up the springs. The GC spring perches are additionally a good choice, you can choose the spring to match. You can only adjust spring height though so you will be winding preload into the suspension to raise the rear. Not really a problem, you just will be "using up" some of the spring tension to get the height. It will also unload without the use of a helper spring when you jack the car depending on the install point. Depending on the spring both of these options would require a replacement shock. The GC if you chose to, you could shorten the shock body, run a shorter stock and have a good amount of travel at a variety of ride height. If you decided you will never go lower than stock, then you could run a stock shock and not modify the shock body, although with the modification you could dial in the ride height without worrying about shock travel (I think Z's sit a bit high at stock height). Cosmo would work, is cheap, but not ideal in a few aspects GC would work, and if you shortened the shock body you could lower it with no ramifications BC or other weld on cartridges style coilover will have independent height adjustment so you always maintain a set amount of shock travel, but yes price is expensive.
  4. seattlejester

    New source for CV axle conversions?

    Welcome to the forums! Glad you understand your market, and I'm sure it is a welcome addition. As long as you don't try and sell outside the vendor section, or respond to every post looking for axles with a link to your site this kind of discussion is exactly what I personally like to see. I will have to agree, I have seen some Z's with upward angles, but they would be at chassis scraping status at that point, maybe a point for Z's would be with the tripod joint on the outer end you get away from potential binding with R200's that the axles face which you are addressing with the "short" offering. CV's have a smoothness that is slightly apparent in my limited experience. Not huge, but I can sometimes notice when I get in other Z's with the stock axle, granted as mentioned they could just be worn ujoints compared to brand new CV's. One point I ran into when talking about STI axles when I had an STI diff, is that keep in mind the power was sent to all 4 wheels in these cars, on drift subaru's they definitely have to undergo upgrades as the axles don't seem to hold much power. If this is a stock offering, I imagine it would be from one of two cars and both are of this type of setup, and it seems that you are addressing this with the low stated power numbers. Just as a warning, we as a community tend to be pretty scrutinizing, please do not take offense, maybe view it as an area that could use improvement to put future customers at ease!
  5. seattlejester

    Custom 3D Printed Fender Mirrors

    That is a neat idea. Kudos for making the attempt!
  6. Howdy, noticed you posted in the FAQ section, that area of the forum doesn't allow for replies. I've moved your thread to the correct area. Take a moment to make sure you are posting in the correct section if you would like input from others :D. I'd be a bit worried that with so much weight off the nose and more in the rear the front will feel quite light under acceleration. I would hesitate to cut the springs as the travel on the stock suspension is not that great and you would be loosing more of it. I'd say a basic set of coilovers from a company that does custom spring rates may be worth the investment (BC comes to mind), to get the height and springs right you could just calculate the static load on each corner and calculate the compression if you aren't concerned with dynamic performance or you could call them up to work out a custom solution which would be advisable with the weight moving around so much. You could go with ground control springs and adjustable perches, sectioning the struts would be a good idea to gain more travel, and a new shock wouldn't go amiss, but in the end you would end up about the same if not more than a set of coilovers as above albeit with arguably a better shock and spring. Lastly you could go with an adjustable spring like cosmo sells. No modification and it sits in the stock area. The springs are pretty harsh and the ride isn't pleasant at least with stock shocks, but it is by far the cheaper of the options. I'm sure others may chime in. I will say I cut 280z tokico linear springs when they were on my 240z. It was a bit of a hassle as every time I jacked up and lowered the car I would have to line the spring up or they would pop out of their perch, same thing on off camber hills. The spring perches have holes that you could use with some CV boot steel zip ties to potentially hold the spring in the perch, but it would have to fight the shock, so I'm not sure how long that would last.
  7. seattlejester

    Luxury Daily restomod 280z Questions, Help?!

    I found some features that I think I have been spoiled with. Of course blind spot indicators are nice, but things like TPMS and backup cameras are really handy. I've even bought those for the datsun. TPMS is nice since I don't drive the car much it gives a nice little reminder if one is low and backup cameras are just nice if you are in tight spaces. As long as the car isn't overtly noisy or at least if the noise is limited to either mechanical via engine whine, exhaust, etc I'm fine. I think it is the little squeaks and odd rattle that gets me more.
  8. seattlejester

    Z Car weights

    @Ben280 Had some interesting number when I spoke with him. Something along the line of the doors being much much heavier than I expected. Like 70-80 lbs for the 280z?
  9. seattlejester

    280ZX 2jz transmission help

    Probably not. Nissan bell housing isn't removable. So no bolt in swap type scenario is going to happen. If you had an access to CAD and a CNC machine you could theoretically make an adapter plate, but then you are looking at custom off set fly wheel and such potentially. If you had a TIG that could weld 1 inch aluminum you could in theory graft it together, but then you are looking at trying to piece together the correct clutch scenario which most likely won't happen. R154 are generally made for the 7m, the 1jz variants would work. If you used the R154 bell housing, you would have to either covert the engine to the push type via W58 gear, or covert the nissan trans to a pull type (or vice versa). That would of course be assuming you have perfect distance to the input shaft and the flywheel splines and all that jazz mesh, which they don't. Also not sure what you have, as auto R154's don't exist as far as I know. If you are on a budget you can go with a W58. If you can't afford that, then you can stick with the automatic and convert to a CD009 using that bell housing and a collins adapter conversion thingy in the future. Keep in mind transmission options are expensive for 2jz's. I've done both the R154 and the CD009 and both will put you in the hole about 2k with minimal effort. Best not to limp in on something like this.
  10. seattlejester

    seattlejester's 1971 240Z

    Thanks, I think I am going to try and get some lift time soon and I'll grab a few more photos. It really does look like stock, maybe even better with the speed grooves. The tank is from when they switched over to the LS-1, so 99+ I believe. Notes while I still remember. Most parts you can buy from rock auto, straps, hardware, fuel fill neck, gas cap, lock ring, etc. The Spectra V6 pump says it will push 50gph, but I'm not sure if that is true, I have the pump, but I've never tried it. Their pumps are clipped into a plastic ring and are not readily replaceable other than another spectra pump so be advised. The stock style bucket was found on amazon for about $30, it has the rubber sleeve, jet pump assembly, etc. You can get a stock replacement for something ludicrous like $5-700 from the parts store. Racetronix sells a plug and play kit for the STOCK bucket. It puts a 255lph pump that uses the jet pump and is all wired up, but it is for the STOCK bucket, if you use aftermarket they switched to wider tabs for the fuel pump wires and the plug will not fit. You will have to harvest the new pins from the new bucket and crimp them onto the thicker wires from the racetronix kit. The part that is seemingly non existent is the fuel fill hose that connects the neck to the tank. According to the junkyard they cut those to drain the tank. Given the tank has a roll over valve that seems completely unnecessary, but I believe the stock fill neck is welded to the car so it may be how they remove it easily. I found a hose for an old jeep that is the correct diameter, if you can find 1 inch hose rated for gas as well as some 1 inch hose barbs you will be in business, I could not find any locally. Still looking for the right fittings. Company/part number: Omix-Ada 17740.05 it seems to have sufficient bends and curves to figure something out with some couplers/90 fittings. Note the V6 and the V8 tanks are identical as far as I can tell. The internal bucket mechanism is different. My setup is a combo, I have the top half of the V6 bucket and the lower portion of the V8, the only benefit is that my fuel return goes straight back into the bucket instead of shooting out from the removed regulator port, not sure if it will make a difference. The difference once again is the V6 has a feed and return and dumps into the bucket, no regulator in line. The V8 setup has a regulator built into the bucket and will not return until 70psi or so. I am pretty sure these are the fittings I used to adapt to the top of the tank https://www.amazon.com/Russell-640853-Quick-Disconnect-Female-Fitting/dp/B001P2CKVY/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1548038859&sr=8-15&keywords=3%2F8+to+6an+quick I already have 6 an line so plug and play. The pump needs to be primed on your first go around, preferably with adequate fuel. I had it all installed and poured in a few gallons into the tank and the pump wouldn't circulate. Pulled it out and filled the bucket a bit and it gurgled then started pumping. Make sure you prime it the first time before you load it into the tank. The bars to mount the tank against should be about 2 inches wide (note the frame, not the straps). Make sure you use foam on the pressure points, you can see where they used it on the factory tank from the cut outs they have for it (weather strip foam bought at home depot). Ohm range is like 40-250 for the sender. Not many gauges seem to do this range. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Gauge-2-52mm-full-ranges-LED-low-fuel-warning-001-F-BB-17/261697663603?hash=item3cee657273:g:PukAAOSwKSRa4yMw:rk:30:pf:0 That is the one I bought and it works well. Pretty nice as mentioned above.
  11. Hey folks, I realized posting in the member's build section wouldn't allow me to really ask questions, so I've posted my build here as well. I'm currently building a 1971 240Z. My plan is to get rid of all the rust, renew the suspension (get the car low, and stiff), add some zg flares (still in consideration), find some nice gap fitting wheels, and put on a new coat of paint or perhaps wrap it in vinyl. This car will hopefully become my daily driver, but until I can get it running reliably, it will be taking on grocery runs, and the occasional track days to shake out all the bugs. I have a time limit of about 4-5 months left to get the car prepped for the weather and moving on it's own power. Stage 1: Strip Stage 2: Restore Stage 3: Mock-up Stage 4: Primer, Underliner, Paint Stage 5: Reinstall The day I bought the car I bought the car about 3-4 weeks ago, and only been working on it over the weekends. Right now I'm in the process of Stage 1. These are some previous pics, we've now stripped out most of the interior, taken off the doors, taken off the hatch, and pulled the blown engine Of course things don't always go according to plan, as good deals pop up here and there, I start amassing the parts for Stage 3, far ahead of time. The L28E out of a '79ZX, the bandaid engine to get the car rolling before a more serious engine is thrown in. Picking up an N42 head this weekend, and recycling my SU carbs from the blown L24. And on the sadder part of things, some things really don't go according to plan, including a fully rusted through frame rail (Pics to come). The jack stand started bending right into it! I've been looking at baddog replacement frame rails, but the site hasn't been updated in 4 years. Hopefully the guy is still up and running? The next stage will be to buy or borrow a media blaster setup (to get rid of rust and the primer) and a flux/mig welder (to cut out and replace the frame rail and repair any non salvageable areas). Surprisingly, the car has solid floor pans, and almost no rust through spots, other than the entire frame rail and a pin hole in the floor pan, despite having lived the last few years of it's life in the rainy city. If anyone has any advice I'd love to hear it! And if anyone has Z parts in the seattle area I am going to have to get in touch with you for some replacements
  12. seattlejester

    seattlejester's 1971 240Z

    Thanks for answering all my questions, it is a bit odd not hearing the pump, but at the same time quite nice to have one noise gone.
  13. seattlejester

    S30 RB25DET T4 Twin Scroll Turbo Manifold Design

    Curious, do you pictures from the other side? I wonder how well they smoothed the diversion point for the waste gates.
  14. seattlejester

    seattlejester's 1971 240Z

    Another problem that came up during the autocross was fuel starvation. Part of me thought it was because it was autocross and I was running the fuel cell fairly low. It did seem to get better when I filled up the next day. Then I went on a local drive. A little over half way through the car started bogging and surging pretty badly running pretty lean even at low load. I could hear the pump cavitating. I filled up again and it seemed to go away after I let the car sit, and only returned after 30 minutes. Sent off the fuel pump for warranty in case it was going bad and started assembling a new fuel system. When it returned I threw it back on for a photo shoot only to find the fuel flow from the hose was less then the fuel flow from the fuel cell. I took off the inline filter to find it was about 1/2 blocked. Even after a bit of cleaning it still had fine debris. I think this stemmed from when I drained the fuel into a plastic fuel jug and when I poured it back in the little plastic bits from manufacturing also went into the cell. So the car would run ok until enough of the fuel passed through the filter to bring the debris into clogging the filter. After sitting the debris would basically backwash into the cell. Good thing is the filter did its job, and being reusable is a wash away from being clean. However I had already started down the road of replacing the cell with a tank. Thanks to posts by Joe and a lot of feedback from Omar I decided to go with a camaro tank. That was a whole ordeal in and of it self to acquire and prepare it. We tigged this frame together, only to find it was too long and wouldn't sit on the mounts I had from the fuel cell. So it was modified to allow it to slide in at an angle. A wee bit of undercoat to keep it from instantly rusting. If desired, the tank could be dropped with the straps, and then the subframe could be removed if needed. Much more discrete then the fuel cell that used to be there. The GM sender is also a different ohm range than normal and really difficult to design. I did find a gauge online that worked, but it kind of ruins the current scheme I have going on. Might have to slowly convert everything else around it now, but the gauge has the startup dance, a really nice back lit LED and when you get low on fuel the gauge buzzes and the logo at the bottom turns orange. Not bad for $40 or so.
  15. Tamo, you posted in the FAQ section! I've gone ahead and moved it for you. Are you saying you keep getting bubbles? Bleeding can take quite a while depending on your booster size and how many turns you have in the system. Either the standard pedal method or the pressure bleeder on the master seems to work the best in our cars. I usually go through about a 1/4 of a bottle per caliper if I replaced a line.
  16. seattlejester

    Luxury Daily restomod 280z Questions, Help?!

    I mean it seems like you want to do exactly what the B is for Build guy did. His swap would be considered a donor swap, swapping everything over from a donor. A shell swap or body on chassis swap, which is more of an older term as we are dealing with mostly unibodies, has to do more along the lines of dropping the body/panels on the floor/chassis of a donor. Might be good to look at terms to figure out what you really want. There was a 240sx kit that grafter the front end of a 240z/280z onto it if aesthetics is more or less your goal. Otherwise it is a matter of finding an engine and interior that you like and figuring out how to make it all fit. There isn't really anything about this that is going to be easy or require a minimal amount of fabrication work. Some swaps have been done so they may be easier or kits may be available, but they usually revolve around loosing things such as power steering and a/c. I would look at the how much it cost video he did to have an idea of the cost you will be looking at, if I recall it was almost 50k all said and done.
  17. I tend to ramble and kind of go in a lot of directions with my thoughts, and felt it unfair to clutter up a nice thread like socorob has on his example of the install. So I'll be covering two topics, one is my attempt at the conversion. Second is some more information I found along the way. First off: There are more options out there! I struggled and had to run the day after one was put on the yard to get my column, the columns listed below should be in your local junkyards shortly if not already and are much more popular then a midsize american SUV so you should be spoiled for options. While it may not be an options for some, given our relatively light cars there are more options than just the 02-07 Saturn Vue and its clones. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/1008722-electric-steering-fail-safe-no-ebay-module-needed-pics-videos.html To summarize, while there are several units on the market, these units specifically will provide modest assist without having to trick or hack the system. 2004-2009 Toyota Prius2009-2013 Toyota Corolla2006-2011 Toyota Yaris - (With ABS works in Fail-Safe).2006-2011 Toyota Yaris - (Non-ABS needs VSS signal or flashing LED)2007-2009 Nissan Versa2009-2012 Nissan Cube2012-2014 Kia Soul Basically these have fail-safe settings where when no ECU input is detected, the unit goes into an automatic pre-determined assist setting. Back a little more to the beginning. This seems to be one of the earlier mentions of the electric power steering. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/787114-best-200-mod-ever-eps-2.html The basic premise is to acquire the steering column and adapt the ends as needed. Given our long hood and rearward seating position it seems that we need the steering shaft in addition to the column to make it to the firewall, depending on how much of the stock system we choose to use. The cheapest and easiest would most likely revolve around using the stock steering shaft, cutting the shaft that goes into the chassis and mating it with the Vue motor output via a coupler, then once again via a coupler or welding attaching the datsun input to the saturn input. That unfortunately would most likely loose our collapsible column feature. Socorob's method corrects that by using the steering column from the vue which has a collapsable column as part of the system, then making a bespoke, but modular piece to mate the datsun rack to the saturn vue steering shaft. Given the number of joints (3) this requires a rigid fixture in addition to the fixed rack to lower the degrees of freedom for the movement. Socorob solves this by employing bearings at the firewall plate to support and to eliminate a degree of freedom. With that end taken care of it only leaves the mounting of the motor. The motor can be retained by the two bolts that hold the column, but would be further assisted by employing the pass through bolt used to mount the motor in the stock configuration in the Vue. Once mounted it is just a matter of adapting the saturn input to the datsun input/steering wheel. The electronics, there are 3 plugs on the 2002-2007 saturn Vue motor controllers. 1. Is the plug for the motor 2. Is the power and ground plug for the controller and motor 3. Is the VSS/ECU communication/ignition plug The bruno controller as far as I can workout without having it in my hands accomplishes two things. One it tricks the EPS controller into thinking it is communicating with the ECU, and second replaces the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) with a rheostat, which allow a user to manually adjust the effort supplied, usually freeway speeds would pretty much remove any assist, while speeds less than 10mph would ramp up the assist, so the box allows the rheostat to start by sending freeway speed signal and as you turn the knob up lowers the simulated VSS signal until it gets to parking lot levels which gives max assist. The bruno box comes with the communication plug. Almost all columns come with the plug for the motor Most columns do not come with the power/ground plug. Ask the seller to grab it for you if you are buying it after market, it is held in by 2 bolts, 1 on the battery with a big inline fuse, another under the dash where it attaches to a ground. Easily pulled by pulling undoing the nut for the power and cutting the ground wire. And lets not forget, for those who could not be bothered, there are 2 commercial options for our cars. Zcarpowersteering offers a kit for $1500 http://zpowersteering.com/store/ Silvermine offers a kit for $900 http://www.silverminemotors.com/featured/electric-power-steering-kit-for-240z-260z-280z-datsun-1970-1978-s30 Also the bruno controller can be found on eBay for quite a bit less, but all the little parts can be found on his site http://www.epowersteering.com/ What about hydraulic power steering? While a hydraulic power steering option is definitely viable, depending on the motor the correct pump or conversion fittings may be difficult to source. The racks that work seem to be miata or subaru in nature and require different tie rod ends to make the wheel base situation workout, they are pretty well documented. For some running hydraulics, making the appropriate brackets, sourcing the pulleys etc may be more tedious then some wiring and making a support bracket for an electric system. The benefit of the electric system is that it is adjustable and could be turned off if desired, not something you get with a hydraulic system.
  18. seattlejester

    Electric Power Steering Information Compiled

    ^That is what I imagined. The only time it would really be useful is at tremendously low speeds, and even at that speed a little bit of assist would be a world of difference. Ben had a setup in his car that seemed even simpler and easier to make. If you don't need collapsible features i.e. track car, you can just use most of the saturn stuff and use a steering wheel adapter to get a sportier wheel. That is what my second setup is destined for more or less. Cutting and welding the stock datsun lower steering shaft to the saturn unit and using the saturn unit for pretty much everything else and either going to a sparco style quick release hub or something of that nature and using a rod end to keep it in alignment.
  19. seattlejester

    Electric Power Steering Information Compiled

    Been doing some research into this. Found some interesting info. The "inferior motor setup" seems to indeed be employed by silvermine. If you look up the EZsteer setup you can see that is what is integrated in their unit. I want to say ZPS uses a european make power steering setup, off of a puegot or something, the control box and such look quite similar to the unit on mine, maybe the same manufacturer. Yes a power steering unit designed for an ATV is inferior to one designed to assist with a car, but.....you really don't need all that much assist in a Z. Mine is built, pretty much ready to install with the creation of a single bracket, and in all honesty I haven't even remembered other than when I am parking that I don't have it. So, whether the unit being inferior being a deal breaker is really is a bit of a toss up. As a poor analogy, is a hand grenade inferior to a nuke? Yes, but if you are sitting in a small room with either one armed you are still going to be similarly concerned. Price wise the silvermine unit makes financial sense, it is in the realm of understandable from my experience. I spent $300 on parts, time for labor, wiring, fabrication, welding, and top it off with a new motor I can see it costing what they are asking for. Looks like the EZ steer kits start at $600 so that there is a pretty big chunk of the cost already. I didn't realize, but this is the first time I have seen pictures of the ZPS setup. My recollection was it was kept under wraps for a while? It looks really quite similar to the setup socorob ended up with and that I copied from him. Given that I would say the ZPS system seems to be on the high end for its construction. They cut out a lot of the fabrication we did by using a pillowball joint (I actually had the same thought, but wasn't sure how much support was needed and two larger bearings spaced apart is quite a bit more in the real of support and alignment), and what looks to be a machined piece for the adaption to the stock Z column. The control unit even looks exactly like the bruno controller. I have about $300 in parts invested in my setup, I can understand with some new parts it may be higher, but I'm not finding the $1200 differential there. Maybe if you included the price of the column that has to be sacrificed, but they are only asking $50 for the core charge. Greg is pretty active maybe he can chime in. I guess it depends on what you are looking for. I couldn't bring myself to justify even the more affordable silvermine option and I enjoy making things so the fabrication route was really the choice for me. Whether the "inferior" setup found in the silvermine unit will matter is unknown.
  20. seattlejester

    Rubber Plugs

    I'd just replace it and cover it. My car was in active service for 30 odd years and the plugs were still alright. 30 years down the line you can cut out a patch from the mat and replace and recover. If you are going to close them, I'd suggest more permanence then fiber glass. Weld a patch and seam seal it. That will also tell you the health of the surrounding metal which if it is constantly wet might be worse off then you realize.
  21. Hmm I looked over my settings I have 2 strokes per cycle Simultaneous injection On Chickenman's recommendation I am running much less required fuel and gaining resolution on the fuel map so mine is 3.8 with 440cc injectors values go from 37-217 Your ignition and fuel maps have values on the y axis that are quite high, you won't exceed much above 100 fuel load without boost so you could gain some resolution there. Your ignition table looks almost inverted from mine, but that may just be a setting I realize I can't help you on the ignition or injector parameters as I am running 440cc supra injectors and COP with a HE sensor.
  22. Not sure on the numbers side, but it may be a matter of the dyno calibration, the numbers will differ so maybe not a good metric for me to fixate on. I think it is the bosch sensor that is the failure point in the innovate kit, the gauge really does not matter much as it just converts the value from the sensor, but if the dyno one was reading correctly maybe not as much of a concern. There is quite a bit of difference, the other tune has some strange values, and the ignition table almost seems like it is set for VVTI. I'll try real hard to remember to look at the files and compare when I get home.
  23. All the data points would be useful. Wideband make? Innovate is popular, but when they start to fail they can read off by as much as 1-2 points which would mess drastically with your tune. AEM seems less likely to fail in this manner. It is confounding as most dyno places run their own AFR sensor to eliminate this situation. Stock injectors? Does the JDM market use a different size? From what I see online the values kind of jump around as what is quoted, I'd have to look at the FSM to see if they list it, but if you are running a map based off of the USDM size and have the JDM injectors (for the 2jzgte, the JDM one is 440cc, the USDM is 550cc if memory serves), you would have problems. Make sure they are similar between markets before you adjust all your injector settings. If the tuner adjusted the timing map, did he find the timing offset on the crank? I had a strange case where I think the distributor was just at the limit of the adjustment so when you asked the ECU to adjust with RPM it would fall off the spark window and fail to fire the spark, made the car drive really poorly with heavy hesitation above low RPM. That kind of information can be useful for those reasons and others. The numbers actually seem pretty normal. I've seen less, although I'm only familiar with USDM motors for the most part. If it has 0 correction factor on a dynojet, that seems like really good numbers, 15-25 more would be really on the high end I have seen for NA, I want to say I saw a ITB ge motor make like 220 to the wheels with cams and all sorts of other goodies.
  24. seattlejester

    Rubber Plugs

    If memory serves, they were made to drain the excess paint/coating as cars back then were dipped in vats of paint? I suppose you could, but really water shouldn't be coming up through them unless they are torn or rotten. I would check door seals and the hatch seal and make sure the rain channels aren't blocked.
  25. Welcome to the forums. Given your lack of history some background posts basic information might be useful, like all the components in regards to the engine, such as 02 sensor, etc. I'd be curious to see the dyno chart, are you basing the missing power off of feel or numbers online? A stock 2jzge really doesn't put out much power and the feel is quite muted in the heavier chassis. I would offer some help, but my setup is turbo and low compression so most likely not that applicable. I'll take a look when I get home though. The dyno chart may be nice to see. Hesitation is most likely related to acceleration enrichment settings so those can be taken a look at as well. While there are a few of us running megasquirt, you may find more assistance at the megasquirt forums. If not we do pretty much have a resident tuner who you may be able to help you get a little bit more squared away @Chickenman
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