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Everything posted by seattlejester

  1. The late model is the slightly confusing bit, I believe I used my 71 240z drive shaft, shortened on my 1979 ZX 5 speed, but I also flipped my differential mustache bar pushing my diff forward so I'm not sure how much shortening if any is required. The yoke just has to be engaged enough and past the seal. The dust shield usually comes past the exposed portion of the yoke to shield it from any debris so it doesn't tear up the seal if it moves in too far. In this orientation I'm not sure there is much concern for the yoke moving too much since the rear is mounted and the engine cants over left and right. I suppose there is some movement from accelerating and braking with worn stock mounts to account for. You are ahead of the curve, sometimes people forget, but there is always something new you can learn somewhere!
  2. The white smoke without water is an interesting thing, but only with the assumption there was sufficient time to burn off any water that may have leaked in. I've seen really lean cylinders put out white smoke, usually before something lets go. I think it best as others have said to run a compression test. Hydrocarbon test in the coolant or checking for water in the oil would also be two other alternatives or additional tests. Running rough as in loping idle, running and catching, sputtering, front firing? Any additional info will be helpful.
  3. As others said depends on your use. You could have 1000ft lbs, but if you have it set with boost by gear and traction control along with a clutch damper you could run that pretty long term. If on the other hand you are on the stock setup with a pucked clutch and drop the clutch on drag slicks something will give real soon. I was in the high 300, low 400 territory with CV axles on 280z stub axles. It handled some low speed clutch kicking on thinner tires, but I'd be hesitant to try anything that aggressive with slicks or much stickier without revisiting at least the stub axles. You're loading the discussion as well with talks of budget. R180 Subaru LSD with stub adapters and wolf creek axles can be anywhere from $500 to $2000 depending on how good you are at deal hunting that still leaves you with the stub axles and an R180, not to mention the axles and joints are not immune from failure. T3 setup also starts at $3400? but depending on the condition of the parts and options that can balloon out much more. If you plan on putting 450ft lbs to the ground repeatedly and with vigor the stock stub axles will not like it very much. The lighter options from the T3 will also struggle depending on how much weight/grip/activity it sees. Drifters break the R200 setup from the 240sx all the time at much lower levels. That moves you to either sourcing the R230 setup with TTT or going to the ford 9 inch setup. I wouldn't hesitate to run the stock setup for quite a while. The rear end is pretty easy to remove and the stock setup will put up with a good amount of use as long as you use the clutch on take off and keep shock loads down.
  4. It was, yes. Vibrant ultra quiet resonator will take care of certain frequencies, but really you just need to damp the amplitude with a muffler for pleasant in town cruising. If you want noise at WOT you can always go with an open waste gate dump.
  5. I mean if noise is your thing a dynomax bullet will get you there. Short of a valved muffler or electric cut out it is hard to get both. I had a vibrant ultra quiet resonator and an amazon baffled muffler and it was fairly benign, enough sound to drive without the tach, but not quite requiring earplugs.
  6. Welcome to the forums! Take a minute to peruse the rules and enjoy your stay.
  7. Welcome to the forum! The square ports are what I'm used to seeing over here, but understandably different on the other side of the world. I've been told removing them is quite tedious and not much benefit in the past. I'll let those more knowledgable chime in though.
  8. Heat is hard to beat, report back when you can. I know I've taken advantage of rent a lift type services to avoid getting scalded on the ground. You only need a very small amount of play to make a fairly audible clunk. Loose sway bar link can make a real click to clunk depending on how loose it is.
  9. Only forum I know of as well. Although I know other forums that have other interesting rule sets. Think of it as dressing up your post a bit if you need be. I'm sure this topic will be searched years down the line by future Z owners. The noise at a sudden lift makes me think mount related. The stock setup even new has weaknesses especially with a sudden load transfer. I will say sometimes noises carry. I had a rattle that I swear was my tool bag only to find it was a loose plastic trim reverberating. There are some intricacies involved with reassembling the rear wheel bearing, making sure the seal is seated and not interfering, the stub axle is fully in, the right spacer sleeve if you are mixing and matching. I also had to use an axle tool to get to the required 180ft lbs. If it was the rear driver I might think about bottoming out an axle, but the rear passenger should be ok. Might be worth getting the car in the air and pulling and pushing to see if anything has play. It seems like it will be something glaringly obvious, or intricate and internal.
  10. Just to clarify I don't mean a hard launch, I mean taking off from a stop. Like do you feel it immediately when you let off the clutch or is it as you get moving or is it as the suspension squats? I will second JHM my last clunk I had to deal with (other than VLSD axles) was from the RLCA bolts holding the inboard bushings. Found them several turns out after refreshing the suspension. Technoversion is where I and several of my friends picked up our RT style mount. Doesn't hurt that he's local. Clarification is never a bad thing. Remember, no one gets paid on a forum to answer questions. Sometimes it is hard to imagine the problem when some aspect is unclear. Heck sometimes I know I don't want to read a post if it is really long and poorly formatted. I know it can suck, I still have a warning from a capitalization failure, but take it as a chance to try a bit more, maybe consider it payment for the free advice. Speaking of...forum rule, make sure to capitalize.
  11. Welcome back to the fold! Depending on the severity of rust and how you feel about it will be how you go about it. Cutting out and replacing the far gone parts etc. I personally like a needle scaler for areas I am unsure about, if it punctures then it wasn't much good to begin with, if it doesn't it leaves a pretty clean finish to apply what you need to. I personally like JZ's, but nothing against the RB's. Looks like it will be pretty sweet.
  12. "Gland nuts are tight as can be" sounds a bit concerning. I do know some variants of the shocks required spacers that were not included with a definite feeling of bottoming out. I second the RT style mount, just from a design standpoint it is better and with the snubber on the bottom you don't get any diff movement to contribute to potential clunks. Can you get a clunk off of a launch? It sounds like you hit some of the most common areas, so short of something glaring it may be something minor like a loose control arm bolt (the big one on the front and back of the rear control arm like to come loose) or something more in detail like a loose stub axle nut.
  13. I know 1JZ's have problems with bleeding and overheating, but first time I've seen problems with a 2JZ. That is an endgame swap for many, so seeing it pulled is unfortunate, but you have to do what feels right. I've also never seen a motor doing a face plant either, lol.
  14. Nicely done! I remember gluing my gauge to the factory bezel, then moving onto the PVC couplers. The factory hoods are quite nice in the sun.
  15. I've missed a bunch of posts, progress looks great! If I remember project Hugo ended up cutting the rocker panel in the middle somewhere and removing material to generate the proper fitment. I think if that was done you would achieve good fit in both locations?
  16. Most excellent! Should have a cool sound, side drafts on an inline 6 have a really nice induction noise. I would run a compression test to before taking the head off to see if there are any problem areas that may need additional scrutiny. Make sure you buy the 10 point socket for the head and clear out the bolt heads of any gunk, these strip very easily. There is also a technique to removing them that leads to less breakage that I would try and find. If you do have to go a different route, the crank trigger wheel isn't too bad. A 1JZ crank pulley has 4 centered holes that can be used to bolt a DIYautotune wheel to. You will run into the whole seal preference thing. I'd be tempted to just take the mainstream advice and go with OEM seals when the time comes.
  17. Ran into the same issue. I'm happy to take up the mantle again, but definitely not quite as active as I used to be. I think anyone from the list generated last time would be a real boon.
  18. Goodness, that is quite the list. Sounds like the best model car kit! Hmmm...tempting.
  19. Congrats! Bummer on the low cylinder. I've learned to really address that sooner than later. I hoped it was just a weak gasket or something and it turned out to be a cracked piston.
  20. Like a GT3576? Turbo nomenclature is so odd. Technically my turbo was also a 76mm turbo, but with a massive 57mm inducer I would say it was anything, but laggy. Almost like a supercharger with how quickly it built boost, but pulled all the way to a panic inducing redline. Also loosing over 1000lbs from the Mk4 supra to an early 240Z is nothing to laugh at, might actually be hurtful in some way since there will be less load to spool the turbo quickly. Always happy to talk shop!
  21. I hear ya, if money isn't a problem then I would say the V160 would be a real nice transmission. The CD009 from the later 350z's are pretty stout. Shift feel is decent, they also make self centering shifters for them which I am an all out sucker for, would probably make it notchy, but shifting mid corner I love being 100% sure I am going into 3rd or 4th. Stock they are infinitely better than something like the R154. Triple synchro and built strong enough to take more power than any sane person would throw at it. I got mine for $700, my friend who bought his took his to a transmission place to have the bell housing machined and they said the inside looked like it was new with 100k+ miles on it. Keep in mind both from the person you linked and myself, looks like we moved our motor back quite a bit. If you play with the location of the motor and shifter kits I'm sure you could end up in the right area. I had the R154 on the very left of the picture and that was about 2 inches too far forward so looks like with the serial 9 kit that would put the V160 in the right area and my engine was similarly with the first and second runner between the shock towers. I will say I had a few people with LS and supercharged V8's give my car a spin, and they were surprised how quick it was. They were coming from mustangs and GTO's but you have to remember your shifting half the weight. A 2JZ with 20lbs of boost under 4k RPM is a real hoot. Upgrading to bigger turbo's would be a commitment to running more than 400+hp and I can say from personal experience the number of roads where you can go all out definitely start to shrink. With my NA L28 with 4.11 I was driving around all out under the speed limit. I could run the engine out and shift 4 times before getting to free way speeds.
  22. Looks real good Omar, definitely the right choice!
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