nazar Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 ok the more i think about it and more diagrams i look at the more i want to do something about it Look at this diagram: now, why do people gut the power steering pump to use as a pulley? Why not just completely remove the power steering pump THen, get an AC delete pulley kit(all over ebay) and route the belt from the top of the crank pulley under the tensioner, up to the alternator, down around the ac delete pulley and back to the bottom of hte crank pulley, hopefully clearing the tensioner??? This was my idea...any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love-my-V8-280Z Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 I found I could not not install my LT1 with the A/C installed because it hit the frame rail. I'm not sure if just a pulley would hit or not. I think it would. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 ...get an AC delete pulley kit(all over ebay) and route the belt from the top of the crank pulley under the tensioner' date=' up to the alternator, down around the ac delete pulley and back to the bottom of hte crank pulley, hopefully clearing the tensioner??? This was my idea...any thoughts?[/quote']I don't think you can go from around the ac delete pulley back to the bottom of the crank pulley without hitting the tensioner. Maybe you could go from the top of the crank pulley under the power steering pulley (or a fabbed up idler) around the alternator down to the delete pulley around the tensioner and back to the crank. Mine was routed something like that before I added the compressor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 I wonder if you could go from the crank pulley straight to the alternator? Here's a picture from Bowers that can give you a good perspective of how everything lines up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted March 24, 2006 Share Posted March 24, 2006 Here is a picture of how I set mine up. I agree with Bart, I don't think it would work to go under the tensioner, up to the alternator, down to the AC delete and then finally back to the drive pully. I'm pretty sure the route back to the main drive pully from the AC delete is going to interfere with the tensioner. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DaMeat Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 I finally finished my alternator mount Nazar, I used an alternator from a mid 80's Suzuki I believe... (It might be a Subaru?). I didn't pay attention to the car I pulled it out of at PickNPull. I used an aluminum block, about 3" x 3" x 4.5" and machined it to mount on the front 2 bolt holes by the harmonic balancer. All I used was a table saw and a drill press to cut and drill the aluminum block into the right shape... Block cost about $13 from a scrap metal place, they even cut it to almost the right size for me and charged me $4 a pound... Check here for the alternator I used: http://www.balmar.net/PDF/Alternator-Regulator%20Guide.pdf It believe it is the top most one in the PDF. The Model 70 Series... It is small and fits in front of the motor mount with enough room around it to tension the belt... The problem with this swap: Only 55 amps output... I think this is what these alternators are rated at so you don't get the 110 amp monster but I will put a regular car stereo in it and I think it will be fine. Uses only 4 of the available 6 ribs of the damper... but after 300 miles it is holding up great so far and the mount is EXTREMELY solid. No movement at all... I might have a new pulley machined for the alternator so I can use a 6 rib belt but that will be a few months off... Also I want to go back and polish and clear coat my bracket so it looks even nicer!! The good about this swap: It only cost about $75 all together!! for the alternator, the aluminum block, the belt, 2 stainless steel allen bolts to mount it with, and a tensioning rod. Lose quite a few pounds by not using that big *** bracket/pulley/"delete this pump" setup and the alternator is nice and down low so it cleans the motor up quite a bit I think. I am pretty happy so far with it, and it seems to work great. I will try and get some pics of it in a new thread within a couple days... If not my 240Z is going on a boat to be shipped to Holland Friday morning and it will be a month before I can get pics of it... (It takes a month for the boat to get there...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nazar Posted March 30, 2006 Author Share Posted March 30, 2006 i ended up using the stock big top mount for the alternator and made a bracket to hold 2 pulleys to route the belt up, oh well, it doesnt look too bad and it works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love-my-V8-280Z Posted April 3, 2006 Share Posted April 3, 2006 Post a pic when you get a chance.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nazar Posted April 3, 2006 Author Share Posted April 3, 2006 started it up reved it and everything is good and straight and looks good actually turned out better than i thought last thing left is to button up the rearend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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