Bartman

$500 located in Corona, CA If you're looking for the widest wheels that can tuck under stock fenders on an S30, this may be for you. They will require fender rolling, 5 lug conversion, coilovers, and spacers, but all the info is available on this site in a detailed post I created. Here are the F1R F23 wheel spec's:. 18x8.5 +38 front and 18x9.5 +20 rear. Tires are Falken Azenis FK453s with at least 80% tread remaining 245/40 front and 275/35 rear. I really don't want to ship, so looking for local pickup around Corona, CA. I also still have the 4 lug wheels that I posted about before I switched over to 5 lugs. Only issue is a dent in one of the chrome trim rings. I'm going with flares, so I have no need for these anymore.

Not sure about the rebranding issue, but from my experience fitment isn't the best. The guy that owns the brown Z had a body shop do his install and I seem to recall him telling me that it took alot of work to make them work. I haven't used anyone else's flares so i can't compare, but maybe it's common to need a lot of work to make flares fit well on our beloved older Z's?

I'd be very careful with this site. I know the guy that owns the Z in the images and he bought his flares from Fiberglass Mafia...

I'm currently installing the Z Speed Flares from Fiberglass Mafia on my car. I wound up not liking the style as much as I thought I would and made a custom set by cutting up 2 sets of their flares. Still working on it, but it's getting close...

Thanks Neverdone, but those spacers will not work with Z31 hubs as they are specific to 240Z or 260Z/280Z hubs. I am specifically looking for the 35 mm spacers for Z31 hubs.

Old thread, but I'm looking at doing this swap on my 240Z. I wonder if anyone is making the 35 mm spacer that Modern Motorsports used to sell.

So after digging around I'm going to make my own delete bracket, but it would be helpful to know the diameter of the pulley that the old PSC kit provided. I'm thinking it is either 70 or 76 mm...

Very old thread , but my pump finally gave up the ghost. The manufacturer listed in this thread as making the delete kit, no longer makes it. So I’m looking for any help, like spec’s, to make my own; or any other ideas. I’m running a used replacement pump, but I don’t know how long it will last.

There is a dent on the chrome trim ring on one of the rear wheels, and since it happened while getting new tires installed they wound up paying for a whole new set of different wheels as these SportMax wheels are no longer available. If your interested in purchasing the wheels in this thread let me know. Must pick up in SoCal area.

The original LT1 engine , T-56 Transmission, and Q45 VLSD are still going strong in my car!

I'm replacing all my rear studs with ARP. I agree torque settings are specific to the strength of the studs themselves and just need to determine the best torque based on these studs. According to ARP it looks like they support at least 98 ft/lbs http://arpinstructions.com/generaltorque.html with the caveat of using their fastener lubricant. 90 may have been to high for Ichiba, but maybe not for ARP.

I don't use FSM spec's as my wheels are much larger than stock (275/35 18). I've done some investigation on wheel stud torque values, and as expected there are different values from different sources. It looks like SAE recommendation for 12mm wheel studs is 85 ft/lbs plus or minus 5.

I agree the metallurgy looks bad, and will likely replace all my studs with ARP. I do all my own work using 5/8" spacers, and tighten by hand with a torque wrench at 90#. Is this too high?

I've been using Ichiba extended wheel studs since 2007. To my surprise one broke as I was reinstalling my wheels after purchasing new tires. These were installed on the back of my 73 240Z and I was running 18x9.5 wheels. It wasn't even close to proper torque settings and now I'm concerned about the safety of the remaining studs. Anyone else have wheel stud failures?