hotdamn

I have an extra Ill check if its working tomorrow

I recently finished my car and would now like to purchase a complete l28et to swap into the car, I would like for must of it to be there. No major engine parts missing i.e. turbo, head, fuel rail, etc. Im located in South Central Wisconsin, if your willing to ship my zip is 53511. If your within few hundred miles I can come pick it up. Thanks, Evan

I switched the fusible link that was connected to the negative terminal and put it on the positive terminal and the car fired right up Thank you so much NewZed for all the help, and I will from now on consult the FSM first, forums second. Few more weeks and the car should be road ready.

Austyn, Looks alot like this car ( )spend some time looking through paint chip books are your local paint supplier And very similar to austins(240hoke)car color(http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/user/352-240hoke/) look at his build thread page #9(http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/58835-the-vq35-is-mounted-pics/page__hl__240hoke__st__160) this car is not his because it has different hood latches and he doesnt run a turbo setup(yet).

I checked the fusible link shown in the picture and I get a full 12 volts across it. If anyone else is looking who would be able to look at there stock EFI system for me to compare or show pictures it would be greatly appreciated. If there is someone that can help me with picture or just a idea please describe where the two wires which plug into the fusible link go to. On my car one(red) is going to the positive terminal and the other(Blue) is connected to the negative, is this correct? If not please tell me what I have done wrong. Thanks again NewZed for all the help.

NewZed I seem to be able to start the car even with the cold start valve terminal connected. I went through the entire series of tests in the "EFI Bible" I did find something which interests me. In the picture attached you can see how I currently have the power run to the ECU/EFI relay. This is how I put it together when I stored it so I thought it was right but my test doesnt support this. I ran a Voltage test between the correct pin(pin 10 I believe, cant remember now) and the body ground when the ingition was in the "ON" position. That read roughly .03 Volts(when reading in the 20 volt setting). I thought this is maybe because of the dropping resistor but shouldn't the full 12 volts travel to the ECU then back to the dropping resistor to bring it down in voltage for the injectors? I also ran a resistance test between one of the terminals on the EFI relay plug-in(two of the terminals currently have power) and the Blue wire shown in picture three(highlighted in Green). To get power to the entire bottom end of the terminal should I connect the black wire(highlighted in Yellow) to the positive terminal of the battery? This seems to be where the main problem resides, so should the entire bottom portion of picture two have power running to it? and if so is it as simple as running the black wire(which connects to the blue) to the postive terminal? Terminals that currently receive power shown in Red.(EFI relay plug-in) Thanks, Evan

I changed every thing over, and I looked at the two ECU's they do have different pins. I think ive narrowed down the problem alittle, I have power to both terminals on the injectors, I thought I read somewhere that this is right, but the FSM is telling me different. I printed out both the 75' and 78' FSM sections regrading the engine fuel, electrical, and other related areas to help. I tried using a 3 Ohm bulb to see if it would flash, but it does not. The FSM says that this is a control unit failure, Im going to get another ECU asap. NewZed ill try your suggestions and update you once I'm finished. thanks, Evan

The car is a 1975. I completely changed all of the wires from the a running 78', dash, ecu harness, etc. I tried plugging in the old ECU from the 1975 car and it still will not start, so it seems either I can not swap the ECU between years even though the numbers of the labels are the same, or that ECU is bad. The car still starts then stalls. I can not give it any gas during the quick second it does run or it will just completely die. Im going to run the tests for the ECU from the FSM.

I read through the FSM/archives last night and tried a few things, I found out I have power to only a few pins. I also cleaned the connections and now have power to my throttle position switch but only when cranking, is this normal? The AFM also has power as I can see internals move(covers off). How many pins should have power? And how can I check if my ECU is bad, would I be able to put in the old ECU from my 75' car in the 78' system? Thanks, Evan

Last Saturday I changed engines in my 280Z, the engine and electrical system were swapped from a running 1978 parts car. After completing the swap the car will start and immediately die. It runs for only a few seconds(with or without starting fluid doesn't seem to change anything). We have checked the fuel pump and pressure (38 psi). The fuel injection relay has power to three out of the six wires leading to it. The fuel injectors also have power running to them, but items like the cold-start valve, and AFM do not have any power running to them. Ideas? Evan,

vote for sticky!

I use a similar process to Meph. I use a piece of 4x4 wood and my floor jack, either on the rear diff or at the jack points on the frame rails. I place the jack stands in the red circled areas. Whatever you do don't use a scissor jack(the kinda that comes with cars) and always use jack stands. I don't know how many times floor jacks have failed to hold the car.

whats your ebay username?

KT industries, leather forehead band, fully adjustable settings without having to remove helmet. You can adjust; shade, sensitivity, and delay. http://www.ktindustries.net/products/SAFETY/HELMET/AUTO%20DARKEN%20HELMETS.aspx

I'm looking square port(mistaken in title, sorry for the inconvenience) for a header for my 75 280z N42, preferred 6-1 but any style will work, PM me your details, photos, or any other information. Thanks,