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TJs 2+2

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About TJs 2+2

  • Birthday November 4

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    WA
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  1. PM me with price + shipping to 98328
  2. Does anybody have a trashed fs5w71b? My 71b is going out and I'm looking for another bell housing so I can get it machined so my car is still drivable and ready for my fs571c that has been collecting dust for the last 6 years. PM my if you are in the Seattle/Puget sound area of WA.
  3. It was a loose connection on the terminal connector. It was probably arcing where the wire connects to the clamp. I re-tightened it and the problem went away.
  4. It died for what I feared to be the final time on the way to work. It wouldn't restart. After work I was ready to put in a cheepo HEI module just to get home then I noticed it has a melted (-) battery terminal connector. New battery cables to follow.
  5. no spares on hand. I'm looking into the Pertronics HEI module as a possible replacement.
  6. I'm having this weird intermittent issue with my '76 280z. The motor will completely die then come back to life either via compression start or by flicking the key from run to start. This usually happens when I'm on the road and will repeat this behavior anywhere from 3-5 times in a row then continue on as normal. It's pretty annoying. Maybe improtant info: I have changed the distributor to the '80 zx w/ E12-80 ignition module after the stock dizzy wobbled itself to death. Any input would be gratefully appreciated.
  7. What make is the one on the right? I just picked up a used one on ebay.
  8. @Hi Def Sorry I didn't see this sooner. I just picked up a decent used uncoated header on ebay
  9. I need a new exhaust manifold because I broke 2 studs off on the flange and broke a couple extractors trying to get one out. If you have a spare exhaust manifold or even a headder for round ports and are not too far away let me know. Thanks. I'm in the south-sound area of Wshington state.
  10. I checked continuity on the air flow meter at the meter connector and at the ECU harness. Resistance for the potentiometer on terminals 8 & 6 (234) and 9 & 8 (130) was higher than what was stated as standard (180 & 100 ohms respectively). All other tests checked out ok. Is that enough out of spec to cause my problems?
  11. wow can't believe I left that out it's a '76 280z 5-speed, federal emissions. I'll review the trouble shooting sections in the fsm. Chilton's was no help.
  12. Ok, got the oil pump/distributor thing figured out yet the thing will still not start. cranks strong but no fire. Again, all the timing marks are on the money as the FSM and Chilton guide say. This car has never ran as long as I've had it (picked it up with a blown head gasket). It has spark on all 6 plugs & fuel. I'm at a loss for what to do.
  13. Hey thanks pete, that looks about right. I'll double check but I think that is where it's at now.
  14. I have done a fairly thorough search for this issue with no success. I had to replace a warped head and am having trouble getting the new head timed right. I Assuming a timing chain can go on and show correct timing in only one combination of cam and crank position and have all the timing marks line up right. With everything lined up (cam and crank @ TDC, oil pump lines up right but the rotor points to no. 4 post in the cap and not to no. 1 as I would assume. rotating the distributor does nothing to bring it into line with no. 1 so I guess my question is: is it possible to have all the marks lined up and yet be completely off like this? anyone have any thought? I'm lost.
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