BIGJIM

I used the bracket but went to the junk yard and picked up a smaller pulley. If you bought the Dorman a/c delete kit the pulley is too big and hits the frame rail. DON'T cut the frame rail!!

I agree 100%. Worse case my car requires too much tuning ill pull it all out and sell it and swap in a carbed Chevy v8.

Nah, if this motor doesnt perform the way i want it will get a carbed small block...prolly be a Ford 351w though.

That car is a beast! Im kinda regretting going with the Mega squirted L28ET right now in my 240z.We are still working out the tune and it runs like crap. My friend has a good running LT1 on an engine stand at his house i could have picked up pretty cheap. For the money i spent buying just the MS 2 and wide band o2 i could have gotten the JTR Headers, rad and mounting kit. I could have sold off the rebuilt L28et and bought the LT1 or a nice running SBC with a carb and been running good right now.

No problem, email me anytime at jkoch8104@msn.com.

I have a l24 built by JG Racing Engines. Ported and polished e31 head, cam, larger valves, n36 intake manifolds, su carbs with sm needles, equal legnth header, electronic ignition. Runs like a clock! looking for $600.00 firm. Email me at jkoch8104@msn.com. Im in las vegas.

I might have what you need. I have 3 turbo afm's. A pic would help.

Im running a 1996 B body ecu and F body harness that was modded by Tom at LT1 Wiring. Its funny to see an obd2 port and check engine light in a 1978 280z..lol.

Spent a little over a year building this car for a friend. He bought the car here in Las Vegas and it was in over all great shape. 1996 Lt4, other than Jesel valve train its a stock LT4 with Sanderson headers bought from JTR. 2.5 to 3 inch exaust with a flowmaster style muffler and suprisingly its not that loud! It has a T5 trans, heavy duty clutch, poly suspension bushings, rear disk brakes and tokico suspsension. I installed 240z bumpers, did the body work and painted it 69 Hemi orange.Here are some pics from the build.

I dont know that paint code, but its Omaha orange with a little orange pearl in the clear.

Starting bid is 39k, and a 55k buy it now. Good luck with that sale...lol.

I still have an account. I moved to Las Vegas and still do this work on the side as time permits. One would need to leave the car with me and be patient as i work in the convention industy now and dont do the paint thing full time. Prices have changed since 6 years ago lol. Pm me or email me at jkoch8104@msn.com with what you need done. Here are a few pic's of a car i recently built for myself.

Ok ive done the search and found tons of s30 info but not much s130 info. I have a 1980 with Tokico blue struts and Tokico springs. The car handles great but has a very stiff ride. This car is a rust bucket so i purchased a 1981 280zx with a bad engine. So i plan to swap the 1980 engine into the 1981. Now the 1981 (new car) has Eibach springs on stock struts all the way around. The ride height looks good but i can put my knee on the bumpers and move the suspension a good 4 inches, but on the 1980 (old car with tokicos) it barely moves at all. I worry ill have a less sporty ride if i leave the Eibach's in, but the stiff ride the Tokico's give is a little much for a daily driver. What should i do? Im thinking use the Eibach springs with the Tokico blue struts??? I need an experts opinion. Thanks in advance!!

Jtr makes a kit! http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_DATZX_MountingInstructions.html

A friend of mine got this turbo from the sema show. A client gave it to him for doing extra work for free. He knows nothing about cars or turbos so he asked me to find some info and sell it for him. I cant find any info online so i figured you guys can help. It reads t04b on the tag, but next to that it looks to say t3, but the hand writing is bad and i cant for sure say it says t3. The cold side of the turbo says m24 a/r .60 and the hot reads a/r 1.00 m3. Looks to be a nice peice but im not a turbo expert. Check out the pics and see what you guys think. I appreciate any help!!