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Sapper

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About Sapper

  • Birthday 04/15/1983

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    Anchorage

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  1. I wanted to do something kinda similar. I love the late 90's Monte Carlo's, and wanted to swap the rb26 plus AWD into that. From what I was told, you'll need to strip the car down to nothing, and reinforce the sub frame. Shouldn't be too bad if you can do the work yourself, but will get very expensive if not. If you are going to use the GT-R rear end, first thing you'll want to do is get a HICAS delete bar. The system isn't all the great when it works, and when it doesn't the car is pretty close to un-drivable. Also, did it come with the transmission control unit? I didn't see it in the pics, and that is a needed piece. It'll look like an ECU, but bigger and would have been in the back. That's what tells the transmission to change from RWD to AWD when it's needed. You probably won't find much of a guide, but if you give the guys at Mckinney Motorsports they would be your best bet of getting help with the project.
  2. After what seems like 100 hour working on the website, I think I finally have it how I want it. I still need to make some minor changes, but I think for the most part it's going to stay like that. As far as the car goes, haven't got too much done. Stripped quite a bit of the front end, and probably later today I'm going to strip the interior and finish clearing the engine bay. I think I'm about to run out of stuff to do until I start getting parts New link, since the other one stopped working.
  3. How is the 2 speed powerglide on the streets? That's what I was leaning towards getting, but I kinda wanted to have it able to drive medium distances, like from Anchorage to Seward and back. Not expecting much for mileage, but I would like to be able to tell it in miles per gallon instead of gallons per mile
  4. Here are a few pics of my old one. This was a series 2 turbo. Hope this helps.
  5. Hi, for those who didn't see my post in the RB forums, I'm currently slowly working on an approximately 1000 horsepower street/strip 280z with a RB26DETT. I'm not shooting for a specific horsepower number, just a guess based on what my plans are for the engine. Some parts I'm not 100% decided on exactly what I'm going to get. I put together a website for the build, here, but its extremely basic right now. If I can get the Z started this week I'm planning on cleaning up the website, if not I'm going to start pulling the engine and clearing out the engine bay, so either way something will be updated by next weekend. Any questions or comments on either my build or website are more then welcome.
  6. Im not sure if it was Adam's car, or if he just helped build it, but he was telling me about it. Suspension wise I'm going with a ladder bar with stiff coils. It's going to ruin some of the street ability, especially here, but it'll save me from having to put overly huge tires, and I kinda wanted a ladder bar to make putting in rear end not only stronger, but easier. As far as the amount of power, I already have to buy a block, all internals, and water and oil pump. So even if I leave the power where it is, I'm going to be spending tons of money. So I might as well upgrade my turbos, I got my stuff today and it has hks 2530's on it, get a new ecu, and add more power. I'm sure there are upgrades between what I have and a pair of td06's, but might as well go big.
  7. I didn't ask for advice that was being given. I asked 2 questions that were answered in first post. Everything else is people answering questions that werent asked, and giving "advice" that isn't needed.
  8. You guys should give the guys at McKinney motorsports a call. I talked to a guy a week or so ago with a 1600 hp twin turbo 350 in a z that he runs in the street class. They can handle the power no problem. Just because you guys feel the need to floor it at every single light doesn't mean I do, I'm not 18 anymore. Having over 1000 hp in a street car doesn't mean I will be using all or even most every time I get in it. Grow up
  9. I was wrong, the 3000 hp turbo kit isn't made for the 26, it's for big blocks. I know the stock block can't handle it, want to say it starts to crack at 1600, but a stock bore or titanium sleeved n1 maybe. But that's a whole lot more than I, or more than likely anyone else, would want to spend on one.
  10. So I don't have to keep arguing whether or not it can be done, http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/115186-finnish-rb26-pushing-over-1000-hp.html I knew someone in Okinawa with a proven 1300 hp r32 gtr. It can be done, and it can be very streetable. As I've already said, I don't have an exact hp goal, I know about what I'm starting with, I know most of the parts I'm replacing, and a good idea what I want to do with the rest. If it ends up being 800, I'll have a 800 hp street car. If its more it's more. My only goal is to still be able to drive it at least to the track. And as far as huge power goes, can't remember which company makes it, but there is a 3000 hp turbo kit out there for the 26. If I can find it I'll edit with a link.
  11. Here maybe, but it was built in Japan. The guy that built it got parts from mainland for cheap. As an example, he got a replacement clutch for my wife's Evo 4 for $90, when before I met him I paid $1200 for the nismo clutch in my s-14. Basically everything was replaced except the bottom end internals and intake manifold. Also he didn't charge for labor, so that was all parts. I have been toying with the idea of just getting the Jun 2.8 stroker kit instead of piecing together one, so that 20000 might quickly turn into 30000, but it's not like I'm in a huge hurry to finish it. Then again I might just keep the power under 800 and get it finished by next summer. I'll see what happens after I get the block.
  12. There isnt a dyno on Okinawa, so the 600 starting is a guess, but it's probably a low guess. The engine made enough power to, in this order, break the front half shaft twice, the driveshaft once, both engine mounts and the tranny mount, and the final death blow to the car, break the frame. The engine made a lot of very fun power, although it spent quite a bit of time broken in my driveway. The engine compartment had around 10k put in it when I bought the car, I got a hell of a deal on it.
  13. N1 turbos are garbage, they would be a downgrade from what is already on it. They are hardly better than stock turbos. I'm replacing what I have with a pair of td06 turbos. Full spool will between 5 and 6 grand, and I'm going to redo the head so I can rev it to about 11000. I dont know why you assume I'm going cheap on this, I've already spent 6000, and when it's finished I will be surprised if I only spen another 20000. And as far as being a dyno queen, I doubt the car will ever even see a dyno. The hp I'm expecting is a guess based on what the head already has done and what I'm planning on still doing before its finished. Final numbers might be closer to 900, or they might be around 1400. But, since there are so many misinformed people here about the potential of the rb's, maybe I will dyno it when I'm done.
  14. That's not really extreme power for an rb26, especially with a n1 block. Without changing my turbos, it has a pair of hks on it, can't remember the model number but they are a little bigger if any at all than stock, they just have steel fans instead of ceramic, I could probably squeeze out 900 to 1000. I haven't looked for one yet, but I'm going to be looking for a manual, not auto. I'll see what I find when the time comes though. If all you are looking for is 800 hp, you don't really need a 26, a built 25 will do that all day for a lot less money. I kept my 26 and sold my 25 because I wanted to build a monster. Thanks for that link. It didn't completely answer my question, but it did point me in the direction of looking more generically and I found what I was looking for.
  15. Hi, I'm currently working on collecting parts for a high horsepower rb26 swap into a 77 280z. The engine was pulled out of my r32 gtr, and had between 600 and 700 hp with a stock block and bottom end. The block had 180k km on it, so I decided to leave it and just bring back the head. I'm getting a n1 block and crank. I'm using a Chevy transmission and a ford 9 inch rear end with a cage. My hp plans are between 1000 and 1200, and I want it to be able to be driven on the streets. Not exactly daily driven, but I don't want to have to trailer it to the drag track and would like drive it medium distances, for example my mother in law lives about 125 miles away and I want to be able to drive it there. I did a search, but wasn't able to find exactly what I was looking for. First, I don't know a whole lot about suspensions, since I'm doing a custom rear end, would springs/shocks be better or leaf springs? I know I want something stiffer to keep the tires from bouncing, but don't know if one is better than the other. Second, I'm getting a pair of slicks for the track, but how wide should I get for street tires? My gtr had 265 and I never had any tire spin, but it was awd and I'm adding quite a bit more hp. I have my old rims, they are 18x9, and I can fit 285r tires on them, but would that be wide enough for rwd and my hp plans? Thanks for any help.
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