TexasStyle280z

i also agree with Boy of Oz. but on the other hand, the only way you'll ever get good at somthing is by doing it. i learned to work metal by getting a bunch of scrap metal and making stuff. plus there is no real need to get expensive equipment. my secret is wood. i get a block of wood and cut it and carve it into a shape that is close to what im making. than i fasen the sheet metal to it and pound the metal down around the wood to shape it. than once its close ill use the smaller hammers and anvils to fine tune the shape. basically what im sayin is give it a try. you never know.

i wouldnt do the whole body. jerryb is correct about if you ever need to fix it or touch it up. i have a sign shop and i powder coat a ton of stuff(sign frames, faces and polls) and when it comes to fixing damaged items i have to strip it down to metal in order it repowder it. you can powder over fixed areas but you can see it in the finished product. and it dosent buff very well

i have a 77 280 and am looking for a good set of stock injectors. they dont have to be perfect, but in good running order. i just need somthing i can use till i can afford a new full set.

its looking like it may be the new injectors. i got it to run by adjusting the AFM to a very lean setting but it still eventually floods out. when you start the engine the fuel prerssure will go up to the mid 30's and quickly begin dropping, eventually getting to 0 psi( like the pump cant keep up witht the injectors). and the pump in brand new by the way. ive called the supplier and left a message to see if they sent me the right ones and what the flow rate on them are. can anyone tell me what the flow rate is for stock injectors. ive read that it is 188 cc units, but i was wondering what that was in pounds per hour(that seems to be the rating most place use these days. thanks for the help so far

oh .. and it is possible that the afm was messed with. the glue is missing from the adjustment screws, so the previous owner could have fooled with it. is there any way of knowing where the adjustment screws should be set...

i did switch out the plugs, and there arent any mods other than cold air. i havent taken out the cold start to check it but i did unplug it so that it wouldnt get a signal to fire( of course that wouldnt help if it was stuck open). ill pull it out tomorrow. i hope its that simple...

1977 280z back story..... the injectors in the car were real bad. tips were cracked and broken and probably clogged up. the engine ran real lean and the fuel pressure was low(20-25 psi) present time.... i installed new injectors and it fired up the first time and ran for only a few seconds and was unable to get it restatred(however now the fuel pressure is where it should be 36 psi). i investigated and found it to be very flooded( all 6 plugs were wet, heavy smell of gas in the exhaust pipe.) if i pinch of the fuel line it will start and once i release the fuel line it imidietly floods again. i have read other threads similiar to this but havent found any with feed back as to the if and how it was fixed. any ideas would be great.

i use devilbiss guns for everyting(primer, base, clear, flake, special effects, etc.). ive had a number of different guns, from the chepest of the cheep to the crazy expensive and in my opinon the only thing that makes a difference is the ability of the person doing the painting. theres nothing you can do with a high end gun that cant be done with somthing more economical, especially if you have experience painting. ive painted numerous cars and bikes with a $99 set of devilbiss hvlp guns. no point in blowing money on somthing if its not going to turn out better results. i know i havent exactly answered your question, but in my opion. buy a cheep gun. i do recomend devilbiss. they make a realy good gun.

i have a 77 as well and im going with the fiberglass bumpers and am painting them to match the stripes(black). i think its a real clean look and it definatly saves some weight. but this is just my opinon.

thanks a bunch man. i do plan on improving on the original. ive been kinda torn between doing it in aluminum or stainless. i agree with you. stainless would be much nicer. and since im practically rebuilding the whole car..i have the time to spend on it. thanks for the help.

my 280 is missing its grill and since im doing a custom front i am going to be fabing my own grill. i want it to be built the same way as the original but i dont have a original grill to look at. my questions are... 1. what gauge material is the grill made of. 2. what are the measurments of the slats(degree of bend, height, depth and spacing between slats. any good close pics would also be a real help. your help will be greatly appreatiated.

for those who dont know i cant the the car past 3000 rpm and it takes forever to go from 2500 to 3000. this only occurs while being driven. while parked and in neutral it will rev as high as i want. so far i have... replaced fuel filters new plugs and wires new cap and rotor new air pressure regulator all new sensors on thermo housing cleaned and checked throttle body cleaned and checked all throttle linkages checked continuity and position of tps ran tests on ecu.(all continuity, voltage and ohm tests check out) i havent checked the fuel pressure yet(ordered a gauge and will check this week). i ran the continuity and ohm test on the afm and all came out fine. however it does appear that the previous owner did adjust it(the glue is gone from the adjustment screrws). is there any way of knowing how its suposed to be set. i havent switched out the injectors yet because i simply cant afford a new set at the moment... is there anything im overlooking? could it possibly be a clutch or tranny problem? i dont think it could be an internal problem because the engine runs good and smooth and gets descent mpg. but if it could be internal, what would it be. also. i removed the valve cover and it looks emaculate. very clean, no signs of ware. almost to good to be a 32 yr old engine. is there a way of telling if the engin has been rebuilt in the past. and if so, could somthing have been done to be causing this problem(like a new cam, etc). sorry to keep bringing up this same old problem. your help has been great so far. hopfully it will be solved soon.

im in need of a number of parts. below is a list. im willing to pay and or trade services if needed. i own a graphics & printing business so if you need any printing done (small or large format) or vinyl graphics i can offer you that as well. thanks.. 1. fusible link holders(with enough of the wire hanging out the bottom to splice together). 2. both hood vents 3. steering colum cover 4. interior rear paneling 5. interior wiring harness(both body and dash) 6. windshield washer bottle and pump 7. vaccume solenoids for heater and a/c 8. if you have a body to scrap i could use certain pieces of sheet metal. 9. door locks there are a few others that i cant think or now, but this is a good start. if you have any send me a message with pics and price. you can pm me or e-mail me dirrectly at cgallagher@cg-media.net thanks in advance.

i have checked the throttle position switch and it seems fine. i do have a question that has just acured to me. im fairly new to doing this amount of mechanical work(usualy im just a body and paint guy) so this may be a dumb question, but here it goes. so you all know what the problem is(i can barely get the engine to rev up to 3k) i was in the working on it the other day and while reving the engine i noticed that while in neutral it will rev easily up to 6-7 k. so my question is that if it was a proublem with the engine or its sensors wouldnt it also be affected while in neutral? could this possibly be a clutch or tranny proublem? please educate me thanks for the help