Richard5vgy

Every once in a while a used one will go up for sale. If you can wait, there's a good chance of someone else producing something similar soon. ...that or you could buy rail stock and have a machine shop drill it for you. This guy is making them too i'm still waiting my rail to come but he makes barbed and o-ring rails 11mm or 14mm.. 105+shipping i didn't get to post the pictures he sent me but my last post was removed????? I don't know if he has a website but i bought mine off ebay he had a bunch of them and they all went like hotcakes. his email in andrewmccalip@gmail.com

That is a great book to start with. as far as machine work goes just have a shop redo you head, deck so it's true and the valve guides and a 3 angle valve job are basic and shouldn't cost you more the 360.00 to have done. If you go with bronze guides then double that easily. Now for the block have it hot tanked magna fluxed. bored if needed or wanted, decked. choose your piston rings before to have any machine work done that way is you choose to use chrome rings you can inform the machinist of it so he can prep the cylinders properly. Simply tell the machinist you want the head block and crank to be done and machined to whatever they cleanup at so you don't have to worry about anything once this is done you can then order your pistons and rings and bearings ordered at the proper size. ebay is a better place to locate piston and ring sets for a good price. ITM pistons are good i have a set in one of my L28 and a L26 and for the price they are a great choice from the very few there are to choose from. Also another little tip i would recommend is purchasing a set of ARP rod bolts and head studs since you should replace the rod bolts and for the price of stock equipment and the little extra for arp it is worth the piece of mind. and for the head studs you are looking at 40-50 more than a stock set of head bolts and they are reusable which the stock bolts are not. once you have those in you don't have to worry about that later on if you want to do more modifications. a set of main studs couldn't hurt either. It's all about how much you want to spend for security and piece of mind. one more thing do not buy a melling oil pump get a beck arnley or another pump i put a brand new melling on my last rebuild and did everything you are suppose to and it was defective out of the box didn't pump at all and almost killed my engine. For a water pump grab a GMB from autozone even though i work at O'reilly's i have to say it because the GMB has the largest and best looking impeller i have found on a L series water pump which means more flow..

I swapped a L28et 81 into my 76 this guide was awesome everything works as it should. Now i do have a question about deleting the AFM and going with a 84 300zx MAF... does this require some minor rewiring? Any input on this one..?

I was 14 when I saw one in a field while riding the bus home. I had my dad drive me all the way back to the car to see what it was. That's what started it for me, I bought my first one at 17 for 500 bucks and been through several since. It's to bad all i could find were horribly rotted ones. I latest and best is my 78 280 I bought for a 100 last year. woohoo:ass: A few pics of my 260 and brothers 280 behind it RIP 260