Leeroy
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Posts posted by Leeroy
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Download a copy of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for a 280ZX and you will know why the fuel pump isn't running. You will also learn where all the wires go.
Thanks, I've done quite a bit of searching and looking through the xenon website but they don't have everything in there. I think I'm just going to rewrite everything back to the way it was(stock) and see how it works because I've been getting positive outcomes pouting wires back to where they originally were before I followed the swap guide.
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[quote name="Miles"
Check your battery.
The battery has 12.6 volts. I actually got it to crank. There's just no spark or fuel. Fuel pump relay doesn't click when turned to the on position and I don't hear the fuel pump priming. I still get that rapid clicking from that black relay near the steering column, which I don't know what it's for.
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Here's the two wires
IMG_0974.JPGThanks for the photo helps a lot. Now I still don't know where that other one goes.
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Don't know if this helps
It does thanks, but I don't know why I have 3 wires coming out. I thought that black wire with the ring connector goes there too but it grounds my starter.
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I was wondering if swapping the entire engine harness, body harness, EFI harness, etc from a '82-83 zxt into my 280z, will it run without any/minimal modifications and wiring?
I already have the entire swap and harnesses in the 280z. Any help would be much appreciated
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Also, this relay is constantly clicking when I attach the battery cable. I'll have to do some more research on what it is and what it's for.
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Here's the two wires
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Ok so I figured out why it was grounding. I had that black wire with the ring connector connected to the starter positive bolt. I removed it and I no longer ground the starter, but I have no idea where it goes. I also don't know where that yellow/red wire goes. Any help would be appreciated.
Now the new issue is that I don't think I'm getting any power to the ecu. The green LED doesn't light up when on the on position. I can hear the fuel pump relay clicking when turning the ignition switch to the on position. The starter also doesn't want to fully crank the engine. I can hear it engaging and trying to turn the flywheel but that's it. I will try to have the starter tested at the local parts shop tomorrow.
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Since the entire harness from the zxt is being used, why doesn't the car run with everything plugged in as it would have been in a factory zxt?
inknow why there are fusible links. It can be replaced with maxi fuses. I may have a problem with the wiring but I'm not an idiot. But I appreciate the help
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Miles:
Thanks. I've looked at schematic of each user but up just have to study them a little lore. I've labeled most of the wires before cutting them but I should triple check them again.
That's true.but yes I have also read through other guides too.
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Yes I emailed him about 2 weeks ago but no response.
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This is the swap guide I used...I have the '82-'83 swap so I went by one of the other member's wiring on the second page of the write up. I don't understand how the fusible links work in the write up because the 2 wires that go to the starter just seem like it's a loop from the solenoid back to the solenoid.
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/34469-a-quick-fi-and-ignition-280zxt-to-s30-turbo-swap-guide/
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Miles:
I understand that the entire car is ground that's why I am wondering why I'm getting 12 volts when touching the probe to the engine block and valve cover when it's suppose to be ground. So this is how I tested with the meter. I bolted the positive cable from positive battery cable to the stater solenoid. I left the negative cable unbolted because I will melt wires with it connected. I touched the black(-) probe to the negative terminal on the battery, and then touched the red positive(+) probe to the starter solonoid bolt and got 12 volts. I then touched the positive red probe to the engine block, transmission housing, and valve cover and got a reading of 12 volts. I didn't hook up a ground cable to the chassis so I got zero volts when I touched the positive red probe to the chassis. So I don't think I'm suppose to be getting 12 volts reading on the engine and transmission.
I will try to take photos this weekend when I have a chance to work on the car. And yes the battery and ground cables are all the same size. Thanks for the photo. What would really help us a photo of how the starter wires are attached and how the fusible links are attached because I'm going by the '83zxt swap guide I found here on this site and they said I won't be using 3 of the larger wires going to/from the fusible links, and to cut them and tape them off.
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NewZed:
Yeah I did a little research after that electrical issue and read that the alternator could be possibly grounded. So I disconnected everything on it to see if that was the issue but it wasn't. I noticed that my starter solenoid starts to rotate when I tighten down the bolt. Not sure if that may cause a short in the starter solenoid.
The stock '76 electrical system is no longer in the car. It has the complete harness(efi harness, dash harness, etc.) from the '82-'83 zxt. The interior is stripped out. I will have to take photos of my wiring this weekend when I have a chance to work on the car in daylight so you guys can have a better idea of what I may be doing wrong
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NewZed:
I'm sure I put positive to positive and negative to ground. And no I'm not using smoke as troubleshooting. It was that one time when I first connected it. But ok I'll double check everything again thanks
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Miles:
I might have done so. I'll need to recheck my starter wiring and any other wiring I did and the previous owner had done.
No I didn't ground the chassis to the engine. I just put the negative battery cable to the starter bolt on the transmission housing.
Ok I'll do that but I'll have to figure out why the engine is getting 12 volts when the positive cable is attached to the starter solenoid.
Yeah I do need help with the wiring but I don't know anyone who is good at wiring and troubleshooting. I'm not going to connect both battery cables until I stop getting 12 volts to the engine block where it's suppose to be grounded.
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It as the chassis
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Sorry I wasn't technical about the words and misuse of words but yes the fusible link "melted". Not completely melted but it started smoking and the links smell burnt. The spark came from when I attatched the battery terminals. I'm sure there's a short somewhere but I don't know where as some of the wires were already spliced into when I bought the car.
Ok so the block where the negative terminal bolts down to(the top starter bolt) is suppose to read 12 volts when I have the positive terminal to the starter solenoid? That doesn't sound right. But correct me if I'm wrong.
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I have a 1976 280z and I bought the car with a '82-'83 zxt engine installed in it. All wiring was taken from the zxt. I wired everything up to the swap guide I found on here. I think I have everything correct. After all the wiring, hooked up the battery terminals and after a second or two the fusible links started sparking. I unplugged the battery terminals immediately. I thought it could be the alternator so I unplugged the wires to the alternator, but still same problem. I then took a volt meter to the engine block and valve cover with the positive terminal connected to the starter and I got 12 volts on the block and everywhere else that needs to be ground. Except for the chassis. It had 0 volts. I haven't had a chance to go through all of the wiring so I was wondering if anyone could help give an idea to what it could be. Thanks
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Alright, I'll see to it and see if I'm up to all the wiring and tuning. I don't think my VQ35de engine is going to work for me So I guess I'm stuck with the MS option.
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Well I wasn't going to say I did research already because I've only read a tiny bit about it. I just wanted to know how much it cost for those of you who have already installed Megasquirt. I just wanted to know how much it was before I wanted to do it because I'm debating between spending money on the turbo or swapping in my VQ35. Basically, will it cost less than 1000 dollars to install MS?
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Oh ok. i wasn't sure which section to read about it and yeah I know it's mostly going to have to be me installing it, but I wouldn't mind paying someone to install it if they don't charge too much. Thanks
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I'm think of using megasquirt on my '73 240z with a l28et swap(n24 longblock). Which version to get? or does anyone have one already set up for something like mine for sale, so that I can just plug it up? Does anyone know someone who can install it in my car near my area? How much does a whole setup go for? If someone can answer I'd appreciate it.
I'm debating on swapping in a VQ or just keeping my l28et and installing megasquirt. Just want to know how much it's going to cast for megasquirt fully installed and tuned.
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Ok so because the motor has been sitting for a while. It used to crank normally, but it will only crank over about 1 full turn now. It kind of sounds like it's hitting something or hitting the valves. I'm not sure. When one of the piston is almost to the top, the valves are still slightly open. Should it do that? Anyone with an idea why it won't crank over. If the motor isn't good anymore then I'm not going to do the swap.
Engine block getting 12 volts
in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Posted
Thanks for the link! I have the 280z paperback manual but it's all torn so this helps a lot. I will do some research and reading