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A quick FI and ignition 280zxt to S30 turbo swap guide

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So tell me if you find this helpful. I tried to simplify it as much as possible. Basically this is a guide through the wiring of the FI harness and ignition harness without the confusing color code talk. I have put in pictures of the harness and its plugs, along with the wires and what needs to go where.

**UPDATED 12-2-2013**

I have sold my Z in Jan of 2012.  I am still willing to help answer questions.  Please email me at zul8er@gmail.com for help.  I am so grateful to this forum and the MODS for keeping this up as a sticky.  Thank You Hybridz.  


The write up is near the bottom of this first page.  The old site where it was hosted was taken down.  Here is the link to the posts where the correct write up begins.





Agian, any questions would be answered quicker to my email.



Still looking for this too... 

Now I would like to include the 82 and 83 harnesses in here also. Anybody willing?

Edited by bumble zee

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Guest bastaad525

if only you'd posted this 2 years ago... coulda saved me $600 :)

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I have also thought of making a webpage explaining all the details but I never did get around to it. I read the info on your site and I'm sorry to say that it left me a little confused. Here is a list of reasons why:


1. I've never heard of a zxt using a dropping resistor.


2. The 6 pin connector that you show does not look like the one I've seen on turbo harnesses (they are a 8 pin)


3. The picture of the TPS looks like a injector plug to me (TPS's have 3 terminals even though only 2 of them are actually used)


4. The wire you say MUST be grounded or it won't run.. Well I never used it. It's hard to tell from the info you have but I think that is the fuel pump modulator ground. (which I never used)


5. When I first got my engine running I didn't have the tach figured out yet. I've heard mention of the tach resistor before and I've never bothered searching for it. I simply just hooked up the original - coil wire back up to the turbo coil and the tach started working.


I'm not trying to sound like a jerk here but if your info left me feeling confused I wonder how people trying to do a turbo swap will feel?

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we took some notes with intentions of doing this very thing, I have not reviewed it as of yet, but will and compare to the notes.

Instead of throwing stones, we should all help with some experience, to make it better for the poor bastards who follow us. The better and more complete he makes this site, the less we have to repeat ad naseaum to new guys.


I say thanks for posting it! It looks great at first casual perusal, and I will be in contact with any photos or comments I have on the site to make it better for the next guy.


This is really needed for guys doing this "cold turkey" and having a clear site made p of common shared experience will, in the end, be the best site it can be, and help as many people as possible without them having to come here to ask questions...


And that should be the goal.


Again, THANKS!

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nice job but you might want to specify the year of the harness, I'd guess it's an 81? as far as I have heard the 82-83 both has the cas in the dist, and the 81 was the only one with the seperate cas but both of mine were 83 so i can not confirm that, and they didn't use dropping resistors, and if you connect those power supplu wires that went to the fuseable link box direct to your starter hot you are leaving them unfused and unpretected! and of course the wiring is a bit different from what mine were I guess due to the year

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Guest bastaad525

yeah he's definatley showing an '81 harness/setup, the CAS and dropping resistors are a dead giveaway. However, I think the wiring for the '82-83 should be almost identical, except you can bypass the dropping resistor pack? The plug going to the CAS is the same on all three years, just that on the '81 the plug goes into a plug coming off the crank mounted sensor, and on '82-83, the same plug comes off the dizzy. I actually run an '82 harness/ECU/AFM, but an '81 CAS, they all have the same plug. And I dont run the dropping resistors.

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Ok, maybe some of the differences are because of the 81 harness (I've never really looked at a 81 zxt) I wasn't trying to "throw stones" I just think that no information is better than false information. I have a good deal of knowledge on these injection harnesses and I could honestly say that alot of what I read looked really messed up.

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Yeah I noticed the TPS plug also, I dont know why I out that one as the TPS, I have the right plug for it in another picture.


And Yes, this is a 81zxt harness, I guess I will specify that.


Also, I wasnt sure what yrs. had the CAS on the crank or the dizzy. I just knew the 83's were in the dizzy, and 81's were on the crank.


And as for that ground wire I drew attention to, the only reason I said that is becase I have ripped that wire off while driving once and the car ran really crappy and eventualy died.


I will fix these errors.

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Thank you i am about to do the swap and having some pictures is nice i will try to get some pictures of mine when i am done, also i cant remember if i saw pictures of wiring the fuel pump does that require any modified wiring?? thank you for hopefully the first, but not last helpful guide to wiring for the 280zxt to the S30..

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I think I will post a "fixed" guide on here tomorrow so then I can get some more "constructive criticism" and then it will be easier to edit and fix things.


This is the first forum I have posted it in, I think because of the type of site, you guys would be the most knowledgeable.

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I think I will post a "fixed" guide on here tomorrow so then I can get some more "constructive criticism" and then it will be easier to edit and fix things.


This is the first forum I have posted it in' date=' I think because of the type of site, you guys would be the most knowledgeable.[/quote']



Sounds good, I'll start gathering some fresh stones.. J/K ;)

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I had to break this up due to a image regulation?? But here is is.


81-83 S130 ZXT to 70-78 S30 Z

Turbo Engine, FI and Ignition swap


by Aaron Ferguson






First off, this swap is very straight forward and does not require great modification to a S30 to install. But I suggest that you read this thoroughly before doing the wiring. You don't want to cut something you may need.


To get started you are going to need these parts off a S130 zxt;


Complete turbo engine (81-83)


Turbo exhaust manifold

Turbo ECU

Turbo FI harness

Turbo Ignition harness

Most of the sensors

1. head temp sensor

2. knock sensor

3. water temp sensor

4. crank sensor (81 is mounted down by the crank, 82-83 mounted inside distributor)

5 ignitor (mounted to the coil bracket)

6 oil pressure sensor

7. If you need to run all the sensors and emissions then I suggest you get those also

Coil bracket (has ignitor mounted on it)



Turbo clutch (if you are going with a manual)

Turbo Airflow meter

Turbo TPS (Throttle position sensor)

FI relay


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So to state the obvious, remove old engine. The turbo engine is a direct bolt in and requires no modification to your existing motor mounts.










Next, after the engine is in I did my wiring. It is very scary for a lot of people, it was for me also. But I had tons of help from hybridz.org. So if you have a 75-79 Z that is fuel injected and you took your old FI hareness out, you will understand how to install the turbo FI hareness. If you are swapping into a 70-74 Z, you will have to cut a hole in the firewall to fit the FI and ignition harness through the engine bay to the passenger cabin. But before you do, you should know what the plugs and wires that you will be needing, and where they are located.



Figure A

Standard S130 zxt FI hareness


If you have been looking at yours, your probably think, "What did I get myself into?" I did that... but after doing this swap in 3 cars, I laugh at myself now and what I had first thought.


I will start with the ECU end and work my way out to the engine bay, starting on the drivers side and then work over to the passenger side.



Figure B

These plug right into your turbo ECU




Figure C

This is where the Ignition harness plugs into the ECU harness.


We will be coming back to this plug and harness because it requires modification.

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Figure D

This where the dropping resistor plugs into the ECU harness



Figure E

This is for the airflow meter



Figure F

These are your plugs for the injectors



Figure G

This is where the crank sensor plugs into



Figure H

These are your water temp sensors. The one in the back that you cant really see the wire color plugs into

the sensor on the gooseneck, the yellow colored wire is for your temp gauge. That will have to connect to your stock wiring for your exsisting temp guage.



Figure I

These 2 wires are grounds, they bolt nicely to the intake manifold



Figure J

This is your TPS plug



Figure K

This is the knock sensor, and the 2 wires that plug into it.



Figure L

This is the head temp sensor and the plug for it. Its in the same part of the harness as the knock sensor



Figure M

This is where the FI relay is located (not pictured, the relay itself) this is the plug for it



Figure N

Ok, this is in the same loom as the FI relay. There are 3 wires that you will need to cut and splice. First off, don't cut any wires that are going to the plug for the FI relay, those need to stay intact. There are 5 other wires not attached to the relay. They are from left to right;


-Green - Constant power (Needs to be run to a 12+ volt constant)

-Black with white strip - Switched power (Needs to be run to a 12+ volt switched power) The end from the relay side needs to goto the switched power. Not the harness side.

-Blue with red stripe - is switched power for your fuel pump relay (has 12+ volts when key is on, will have power for 5 seconds if car is not running to prime the fuel system, and will have a constant 12+ volts when car is running.)

The yellow and white wires you see bent off to the side you will not need and wont be using



Figure O

This plug is for fusible links. Those white wires on the left you will not be using,

but the brown and green wires go to the + post on the starter.


And that is it for your FI harness.

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Now, onto the Ignition harness...


This harness is a little tricky. There are a lot of wires that are in this loom that disappear into the dash of the zxt. What you need is the loom from the coil to the plug that plugs into the FI harness. Now off the coil harness plug, there is one yellow wire that runs out to the engine bay and attaches to the ignitor, DO NOT CUT THAT WIRE. The rest of them you can cut, but leave plenty of room to work with the cut wires because you will be using them.



Figure P

You can see the coil harness plugged into the FI harness, you can also see the wire that runs to the ignitor on the coil bracket.

Also notice the wires you cut are being used again.



Figure Q

This is what the coil / ignition harness plug looks like that plugs into the FI harness.

The 3 prongs labeled are the wires you are going to be using.

NOTE: This is the coil / ignition harness plug end. This is not the FI plug end.


1. This is the yellow/white stripe wire that runs to your ignitor on the coil bracket.

2. This wire needs to be run to a switched power 12+ V

3. This is a ground



Figure R

You can see that black with white stripe on the plug for the ignitor, that needs to be run to a switched

power 12+ V, the wire next to it is the yellow with white stripe that runs to coil / ignition harness plug that plugs into the FI harness



Fiqure S

Here is the ignitor that is attatched to the coil bracket



Fiqure T

These are running from the coil, this is what your ignition harness is conssted of.

That yellow wire is the wire in Fiq. P that is running to ecu plug to the ignitor plug in fig. R

The Blue wire is running off your coil and that will goto your tach. Now on the 81 harness you need the resistor

The Black/white strip wire needs to be run to a switched power.



Fiqure U

That is what the resistor looks like, it is burried in the zxt dash.


Here is how to wire up for the 83zxt ignition courtesy of jon (in the green Z) on ZCAR.com who made up this diagram.







Here is a little schematic to help you out





And when it is all said and done. It looks great :)



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