RPMS

quote: Originally posted by Dan Juday: I used a spot weld tool...It worked great for me. Others have griped that they are hard to use. They're just weenies. As a card carrying Weenie in good standing, I take great umbrage at your remark, sir! I'll have you know that Weenies were present at most (if not all) great historic events, such as the Battle of Trafalger, the Alamo, and the signing of the Declaration of Independence. Ben Franklin was, in fact, one of the Founding Weenies, and his picture is watermarked into my WOA (Weenies of America) card. So stand up, fellow Weenies! Don't stand for treatment like this! Cast off your oppressive horn rim glasses, your pocket protectors, and your HP calculators! Pick up that spot weld tool and learn how to use it - you'll be glad you did! Yours truly, Scott Ferguson Weenies of America Local 219

Why mess with a fixed-pole electromagnet? Wire it up so that the power source for your electromagnet gets its signal from the speaker outputs, but with reversed polarity. Engineer it so that when the speaker coil's polarity is positive, the electromagnet's is negative, and vice versa. You could make a highly efficient design that way, complete with excursion-limiting effects. Just a thought...

Good Morning, Gentlemen! I finally got some centerbolt valve covers, so I can unveil my mystery long block and try to discover exactly what I've got. I looked up the numbers on Mortec's site, but all they could tell me was that it was a 350, originally built between 1987 and 1995. There are a lot of pictures in this post, so I apologize in advance if you've got a slow internet connection. First off, here is what is cast into the left side of the block above the flywheel: This is on the right side of the block above the flywheel: This is cast into the left head: This is cast into the side of the left head, and in this picture, you can see that the plugs insert perpendicularly to the block: In this picture, you can see that there is a small "1" stamped into the block in front of the #1 plug hole. You can also see that the exhaust ports are pretty darned small. This number is stamped into the block on the front, just to the right of the timing chain, underneath a big water passage. I assume that castings are done at the factory, and stampings are done at the rebuild shop? This last number is cast about halfway down the left hand side of the block, right in the middle. I hope this doesn't crap out the board because of too many images. If anyone can help me assess the performance potential of this block, I'd be appreciative. Right now, my plans are to use this engine to set up the car and get everything running right, then I'll build up a more powerful engine in a year or so to replace it. Thanks! [ October 31, 2001: Message edited by: RPMS ]

You're right, Kevin - folks on here don't look at all like I imagined. This is pretty cool! Now, let's see if this will work...

quote: Originally posted by auxilary: 2 coats of primer, 3 coats of cast aluminum engine enamel paint. yay or nay? it looks more silver when the sun's out[/QB] DROOOOOOL! Those look SHARP! Where did you get the coilover kit from? I WANT!!!!!

Mmmm... Have to agree with Owen on this one. They both look like they belong on a truck. I'm going to get on my soapbox here, Kickn, but please don't think it's directed at you. They're going forth to the group in general. When most people customize a car, they don't seem to have a goal in mind. They see neat wheels, and they buy them. They see good looking bumper treatments, and they buy them. They see other cars with spoilers and wings that look good, so they buy them. Then they slap the whole thing together, and seem surprised when the whole mishmash looks like crap. When customizing a car you've got to picture what you want to end up with, and work backwards from there. Too many folks seem to have no concept in mind, and they end up with an accessorized car instead of a hot rod. You know the difference, even if you can't put it into words. It's like when you spend an hour going over every detail of one car in a show, then pass right by the one in the next stall, even though it's similarly equipped. One man had a concept, and the other just had a credit card. Look at Pete's car for an example of this. He may not have done everything the way I'd have done it, but he's done everything to a very high standard, and it all fits together visually. Your eye is drawn from one obsessive detail to another in a slow, logical flow. Your eyes don't jerk from wheels to carburetor to bodywork to engine dress, they just flow over the whole picture, seeing how all the individual parts add up to one kick-ass ride. The details are there, they aren't hidden, but they work together instead of clashing. Another example of this is J Taylor's 280 w/ TSW Trophies on it. BEAUTIFUL wheel choice, IMHO. If he'd left the exterior of the car stock, they'd look stupid. But with the body changes he's made, they compliment instead of clashing. The Z has simple body lines, and deserves simple wheels. Straight lines are okay, but curves are better. You can never go wrong with a satin or machined finish, either. Okay, that's my .02 on the matter. I'd be interested in hearing other folk's views on this.

Gawd, I feel like a complete idiot for having to ask this, but why don't we just beat the floorpans with a big hammer.... *ahem* I mean, why don't we clearance the floorpans to allow the exhaust to tuck up higher? With some insulative material between the piping and the floor, I can't think THAT much heat would be transferred, to the cabin, would it? Oval pipes would minimize the amount of clearancing needed even further. I would imagine that ceramic coating your entire exhaust system would be a complete waste of time and money if it hung low enough to scrape on speed bumps. As soon as you've scraped the coating off of even a small section, you've exposed metal and invited rust to come out and play. I'm speaking from COMPLETE ignorance here, since I'm still an inliner. So please, be kind and educate me!

Okay, tonight I did the passenger-side door weatherstripping, and (curiously enough) it fits just fine, and the door closes with very little effort. I wonder if the driver's side was from the earlier production run, and the passenger side was a later version??? I've noticed that many of the seals appear to be too long, so I've cut them to size. I guess they do that so nothing will accidentally be too short. They seem to work all right, but until I can get the front window glass all put in, I won't be able to tell how well they're really sealing. Those rear quarter windows sure were a pain in the rear to put back in...

quote: Originally posted by lonehdrider: Has anyone used that aluminum braze/welding system called Dura-Fix before? I have a design in mind for some sheetmetal aluminum pieces that will require welding a seam. Hell, Jim, what kind of redneck are you?!? Just use some pop rivets and duct tape. Oh, wait - you're from the People's Republic of California - that explains it. *burp* Scott "tongue firmly in cheek" Ferguson Podunk, Texas [ October 01, 2001: Message edited by: RPMS ]

Okay, here's the poop. I was looking at the fit of the Precision door weatherstripping before I installed the door latch mechanism. When the door is pushed shut and released, it sprang back to where it left about an inch gap. In other words, the weatherstripping is making contact about an inch before the door latches. When I pushed the door shut with moderate force, it still left enough space to put my finger in between the door and the jamb. This led me to believe that the seals were too thick. Well, I installed the door latch last night, and tried shutting the door again. "Normal" closing force doesn't fully latch the door. I would estimate that it takes about double the normal force required to close the door fully, so that it's flush with the body. In simpler terms, you have to slam it. Not quite violently, but forcefully. I'm a little scared that if this doesn't soon start to close a bit easier, I might rip off the inside door handle! I understand that this is a common problem, and should get better as the seals compress. I was also a little concerned that the springiness of the seals might jam the latch mechanism, but that didn't happen. Even with the pressure on the latch, it still opened smoothly. Thank goodness for that, at least! I'll update this as time goes on, so the list can see how long it takes for these things to "break in". Overall, in spite of this issue, I feel I got a good value. The improvement over what was on the car (NOTHING) is well worth the two hundred and twenty bucks I spent on the kit, even if I do have to close the doors firmly from now on. If money is no object, go with the Nissan seals. If you're on a budget, the PRP seals will probably do just fine. [ September 27, 2001: Message edited by: RPMS ]

Okay, add me to the list of folks who are having trouble installing the Precision weatherstripping kit. None of the pieces are marked, and I'm having to guess which pieces go where. The door seals were easy, but they were too long and I had to trim about an inch and a half off them to get them to fit. Same with the quarter window trim. And the piece that I *think* goes at the rear of the hood (right behind the hood latch) looks to be about a foot too long. Has anyone else had to trim these suckers to get them to fit right, or did I just get the wrong kit? I'm going to call them tomorrow and get a complete listing of which part numbers go where on the car. I'll post what I find...

I must say, I'd probably not have done the whaletail or the Pyramid shaped side mirrors, but other than that it's one sweet ride! The gill slits on the fender are first rate, and I agree that the fender flares are MUCH better integrated than most offerings. And the wheels add just enough flash to an otherwise monochrome offering. Even the Russian judge gives it 9 out of a possible 10!

I think they would look great on a Z! I like the looks of those rims - the thick black spokes suggest strength, and only having five of them hints at light weight (I'm not sure if either are true, but it sounds good!) Do it!

Tim, I didn't realize you were in Fort Worth! If I'd known that, I would have made you promise to give me a ride in your car when you get it done! Is it still too late to make my reservation?

Fifteen years ago, I had one frame rail replaced, and one side of the floorpan patched up. He did an excellent job, and charged me $750. I'd guess you'd be talking about at least a cool grand to do what you're talking about. Heck, take it into the body shop and see what they say. What do you have to lose?

I haven't seen any topcoats that are matte finished, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. If someone knows of one, please, tell me! What did they do for the hood scoops on musclecars in the '70's? And part of the hoods on the 1984-86 Mustang GT was flat black, IIRC. Someone must have a paint code for that somewhere, I'd think. But there's a big difference in appearance between flat and matte finishes. I think flat black would just look like cheap primer.

Hey, 77! If you want to send your picture to me as an e-mail attachment, I'd be glad to put it up on my server so you could post it to the group. Send it to scott@powerbear.com and I'll put it up for you. Same goes for anyone else who wants to put up pics of their cars. I've got plenty of bandwidth available to me, and I only use a small fraction.

Duplicate post. [ September 20, 2001: Message edited by: RPMS ]

quote: Originally posted by DavyZ: BTW, have you seen that two part black paint--1st part with no clear looks like black primer, but is more durable, has a slight satin finish and is used on a lot of "rat rods?" Pretty cool if you ask me. I saw a Chevy V8 powered TR7 with a custom smoothed "wide body" that sported that paint job--looked very menacing. Like this? If so, that's PPG Concept epoxy primer. It does look absolutely, undeniably bad ass, but I've been told that since it contains no UV stabilizers, it will turn chalky in a very short time when exposed to sunlight. Man, I wish I could have left the car like this. In spite of the fact that in the Texas summer it would have been hotter inside than an EZ-Bake oven with a 100 watt bulb, it would have been soooooo evil looking!

Thanks for the info, guys. I guess when it's time to upgrade to the bigger brake calipers, after putting on the brake hardware I'll see if my existing 14 inch mesh wheels fit. If they don't, I'll search out some 15's. Thanks for clearing that up for me!

Thanks for the info, Mike. Are you saying that all 280ZX wheels in 1983 were 15"? If so, which style did they appear in? I'm particularly interested in the 'iron cross' wheels (like in this picture) but I don't remember how large they were... Will any of the other factory wheels fit the Toyota brake conversion? Thanks! [ September 14, 2001: Message edited by: RPMS ]

I'm sure this information is out there already, but I can't seem to find it. I'm keeping my stock 4-lug setup for a while, but I want to upgrade to 4-pot front brakes in the near future. Can someone tell me which 4-lug Z wheels are also 15 inches in diameter? I know the 'swastika' ZX turbo wheels are, but were there any others? Thanks,

I don't think there's enough cost difference to make the cost of conversion the deciding factor. If a few hundred dollars will ultimately decide whether your project takes off or not, then you're in for a rough ride building a V8 Z. In the past six months, I've seen over and over again that almost nobody on this list has come in under budget. The quote I most often see goes something like "figure out how much your car should cost, then double that amount." I don't mean to discourage you, but I want to help put your situation into perspective. The ZX is *probably* a better candidate for a 400 horse engine, because (depending on the model) it will already have an R200 differential, stiffer chassis, and more sound deadening. (did the ZX come with CV joints?) >>The 260 has no body rust, but the floor panels are ate up If the 260 has no floorpans and good body panels, it probably is hiding at least some bondo underneath what's left of the paint. I'd be highly suspicious. $200 for new floorpans if you weld them in yourself, $600 if you have the job done. Or you could just get Grandpa to bend some generic sheetmetal and weld it in for you for $10.00. >>the interior is trash, That might cost some bucks to fix. But then again, seat covers, a dash cap, a bottle of Armour All and four cans of vinyl paint will set you back $200 and make most interiors presentable again. >>it has no wheels or tires, $200 for decent takeoff tires on $100 junkyard rims that you can clean up to look really nice. >>there is a major dent in the roof Cheap Bodywork - $250 IF that's the only place that it needs bodywork (doubtful). Depending on where the dent is, you maybe could use a strategically placed Pep Boys sunroof - $179. Cheapest paint = $200. >>the hood release cable broke $10 for a used one, plus the headache of getting the hood off! >>and it needs a starter. $25 junkyard item. But if you're gonna stuff in a V8, who needs it?!? >>Oh, and the stereo/speakers are gone $200 at the pawn shop if you can install them yourself. >>and the windshield is cracked. I was quoted $128 for a new one, installed, if I supplied the gasket. Pretty cheap. So my best guess would be that you're looking at: $450 initial cost $200 - floorpans $200 - interior $300 - wheels + good tires $450 - paint/body $200 - stereo $130 - windshield $50 - miscellaneous parts and your $450 260Z now costs $2,000 to bring it up to the level of the $250 ZX. And the ZX had better A/C, which you'll appreciate in humid South Carolina. My .02. [ September 13, 2001: Message edited by: RPMS ]

$1,500 is a good price, even for a beater IF it buys the parts you need to fix your car. If the engine smokes, the tranny slips, the interior is shot, and there's been bad bodywork done on it in the past, I'd say to pass on it. What you need is a good body to transplant your drivetrain into, and a fifteen hundred dollar V8-Z isn't likely to have a good body. But even if the body is bad, it could still be put in the "good deal" column if the interior is nice and it has lots of mechanical bits on it that you'd like. You could buy the car, harvest what you want off it, and either rebuild and sell it, or part out what's left to finance the deal. On the other hand, my last 280Z was 1,300 bucks, and the ONLY things wrong with it were a bad brake booster and old tires. It came with wide wheels, sport suspension, Flofit seats, a perfect body and a strong engine. Sometimes you just get lucky. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out! Scott

quote: Originally posted by 73 240: Hey RPMS......if you have the tools and you get to visit with Zfan could you record an audio clip for me to hear? That would be awsome! jake Ya know, it just strikes me that Plano ain't that far off the beaten path. Maybe sometime in the next week or so I can call Mike and arrange to come out and record some sounds of his car for the group. What would y'all think about a webpage that had a lot of different muffler combinations recorded for everyone to hear? I could probably get enough room on our server to do just that, if interest was high enough. And thanks for the offer of showing me your car, Mike! I'll e-mail you privately for a contact number. Scott