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SHRALP_GNAR

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About SHRALP_GNAR

  • Birthday 05/01/1988

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Upper Californee-way
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    Z's

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  1. Back to the "best bang for your buck", the first thing i did to my L24 was toss the down draft webers and put on some round tops. The SUs had a much better throttle response and made the car feel more lively. Later i swapped in a 5-speed, a 4.11 rear end, and a set of tripples i picked up for fairly cheap. I know i'm not cranking out more HP but the car so much more snappy. so that's what i did. all straightforward stuff.
  2. I'm looking for a set of six DCOE 45 f9 idle jets. I will hear offers about other idle jets as well.
  3. 135 mains 180 airs f16 emulsion tubes 34mm chokes 5 aux venturis 55f2 idles. The car is running very well now except for a little bit of a stumble at sustained throttle. After setting the throttle plates i found out that the last owner tried to re-profile one of the mixture screws and did not do a good job at it. it is about 1.5mm shorter than the rest now and wont fully close so i'm not going to get my mixtures right until it's replaced.
  4. Thanks, there was already some good info on the subject.
  5. I want to drop the front end of my 240 about an 1.5''. i have some eibach springs on and i figured i could cut out a single coil and be about where i want it. the rear already sits a little lower so the wheels are a little off cambered so i figured i would drop the front to match it. eventually i'll correct the camber but for now i just want the wheel gaps to be a little more even. I'm hoping that cutting one coil won't get me into any real trouble. any thoughts?
  6. The throttle plates look dead on. I don't want to mess with the idles at all until a get a syncrometer that'll fit 'em. I have one for my SU's but i dont have air horns yet so i can't use it on the webers. I think they WERE in tune when they came off the last car. The jetting feels great. No problems at all under WOT. I know i can't really tell until i sync'em myself.
  7. So i have some big ol' 45mm webers on my L24. It's got MN47 head(rebuilt,some mystery cam work),headers, 2 1/2 pipes, crane cams ignition, 77' 5-speed, and a r180 411 diff. The carbs work great after replacing some missing some missing aux. venturis. my only complaint is a slight sputter in stop and go traffic. Other than that it's a rocket ship. The chokes that were in the carbs had been custom bored out or something because they are all roughed up and there is no sign of a number but they measured about 37mm. I was thinking about what size chokes to replace them with but i'm kind of torn between 32's and 34's. For being 45 the carbs are working remarkably well on my L24 as they are so i was thinking of going with some slightly bigger chokes like the 34's, even though the 32's seem like the logical choice. Any thoughts?
  8. ....The venuris are in. Now it's a rocket ship.
  9. I just picked up a set of weber 45's from a fellow hybridZ-ers stroker set up for my 73. Sooner or later i want to build up a stroker engine but for now I'm hoping to choke the carbs down to use on my l24. Now,i'm well aware that 45's are WAY TOO BIG for a stock l24, but I'm not really sure how stock my engine is. The block is clearly an L24 and the head is a rebuilt N47(of some sort). The previous owner bought it from someone who had just rebuilt the engine and then it rolled backwards down a hill into a tree. The guy never got around to fixing it up so i got it cheap and i fixed it up. The moral of the story is the engine is kind of a mystery. It's running so good so i don't want to spend the time pull the head off and examine everything. The lift on the cam measured .460. could be a mellow re-grind. not sure about the duration. ....anyways, I bolted the webers on and it fired right up, idled at 1000, and revved up to 7000 without popping out the front or the back. It was a little sputtery under 3000 when it was cold. I stuck the colortune on and the mixture looked almost spot on as well. Just a slightly on the rich side under WOT. It was a bit of a shock that they worked so well without touching them. I later noticed that two of the Auxiliary venturi's were broken out. They were also mixed sizes. 3 were 5's and the other 3 were 4,5's. the rest of the jets are consistant. So i took it for a little spin and it drove like a happy snappy little sports car unless the engine was under a load or going up hill. The power would flatten out. My brother is pretty weber savy and he thinks i'm leaning out under load. I also got some good lean pops going down hill so that kinda adds up. But my question is (finaly) Do you think this is a case of my engine just being to small to get those carbs going or the lack of having consistent venturi's? I obviously need to install some new parts but would the lack of 2 auxiliary venturi's and the others not matching cause the power to flatten out? ....Sorry, this turned into more of a story that a question.
  10. Please leave an offer. I'd prefer a complete set (carbs/manifold/linkage).
  11. I would strongly discourage you from going with a Mr. gasket. I've burnt up two of 'em in 6 months. The dude at the auto parts store said that more than half of the Mr. gasket pumps he sold came back. It Could have been because I had them mounted in the engine bay instead of right out of the tank. If you already have one I would suggest mounting it in the back.
  12. I'm looking to get some old triple carbs (weber, dellorto, solex, mikuni, whatever's) I'd like to get a set as inexpensive as possible. if they need to be 100% rebuilt... -great- i'd love to start from scratch on a set. I'd also love to hear any offers. Thanks.
  13. I recently picked myself up a colortune and I've been dialing in my SU's. After an hour or two of tinkering I got the spark to stay a consistent blue at idle and at sustained throttle. But under quick or heavy throttle it flashes bright orange (rich). I currently have ATF in the dampers, which i know is a little on the light side but it is all i had handy. It seems like I would get a lean spot with lighter weight fluid. I've also messed with the needle placement and it seems better with the needles shoved all the way in and the mixture leaned out. I guess it's not that big-O-deal to have a rich spot under acceleration but if anyone has any thoughts please jot'em down. thanks
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