olavcsk

Work Gnosis HS203 20x9" ET -15mm Tires 235/30 R20

My brake pedal was also rock hard some times and it seemed like it was only the front wheels braking. The problem on my car was the rear brake proportioning valve that was more or less blocked. I removed the valve function so it is just a connection point now and installed a external proportioning valve. That solved my problem, but perhaps your problem are different.

You should contact Techno Toy Tuning or Silvermine Motors, I am sure they will help you with a great 5 lug setup. For the rear brakes you can also buy 5 lug conversion hub stub axles from Silvermine Motors and just redrill the drums for 5 lug. I did that before I installed disc brakes.

Thanks, the ground clearance from the frontspoiler are 150 millimeters and with speed bumps and bad roads i need this.The tire circumference are encreased 2% compared to my old tires, No coilovers just my old original springs. I like a little rough ride, but it is almost the same feeling or better than with my old 18 inch wheels.

I am an older Norwegian 240Z owner since 1983.. I have had several wheels started with 14" went to 16" then 18" and now to 20" wheels. My old brakes was the toyota/300zx setup and stock in rear. So this was my winter project, and I just want to show you some different solutions. The front brake system are 370Z akebono calipers and the front disc's ,5 lug hubs and rear brake kit are from Gabriel at Techno Toy Tuning. He helped me alot with front disc's selection. The caliper brakets are my own AutoCad design and has an extra front support for more stability as i moved the calipers to the front side of the struts. Wheels are Work Gnosis HS203 20x9, offset -15mm, senterbore 73,1mm, bolt pattern 5x114,3 mm ordered by Leo at Vivid racing 5 lug Rear hubs are from Edan at Silver Mine Motors. No need for spacers. Tires are Ling Long 235/30-20. The Calipers from Conceptz Performance. I needed to do some modificatons to fit the calipers to the hub/discs. This setup are performing very well for street use, No need for changing the brake master cylinder, my stock works perfect, i have really good pedal. Most Carbon Fiber parts are from Freddy at Topstage Composites. Pictures are just from mobile phone so quality are soso.. All this companies and my good car friends really deserve my thanks for all the good help!

yes I used the stock mustache bar , no modifications, bolt on.

Hello from Norway, cheap and simple R160 VLSD installation in 240Z, I hope it is ok to post this here? Some years ago I bought a Subaru R160 VLSD , cost me 150 usd at Ebay but with shipping to Norway I think it was around 300 usd total,. Then I had to buy some VLSD axle shafts to modify. Around 150 usd total with shipping. I used a 240Z old R180 as donor for the axle shaft connection plates to the Subaru diff. splines We first measured the distance between the axle shaft installation plates on the R180 donor. The r180 spline axle was removed and the plates cut off. The Subaru r160 axle shafts was temporary installed in the r160 , we measured where to cut to get exact the same distance between the axle shaft installation plates as on the r180 The r160 axle shafts were cut off and the splines ,one long and one short was then adapted to the r180 shaft installation plates. A friend did that at his little machine shop. Then I just installed some new axle oil seals ,don’t remember the price but very cheap. Installed the new splines, filled the diff with oil. Removed my old r180 and installed the r160, I think I used 3-4 hours to finish this installation. Test driving and it worked well , total cost around 500 usd in Norway, 200-250 usd was just shipping costs. But for me that is a great price and also fun to have done. Take a look at the pictures also, I am happy if it can help some of you. Regards Olav