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About palladin

  • Birthday 01/01/1950

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    Chattanooga TN

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  1. http://xenons130.com/auto2manualCC.html
  2. The fronts ar 4", the rears are 6.5" and if you have a 2+2 I believe they are 5.25" I used DB speakers front and back with an Alpine unit. The bass is great IMO....not the boom choka boom stuff, but good sounding bass. The big holes above your speaker is where a lid unt attached and was used for storage. Find yurself a pullapart junk yard (pullapart.com). Usually you can find the pieces you need.
  3. Help your Uncle Jack, off a horse........a comma is not proper there. But I must commend you for bringing this up. When you look at some of the idiotic posts we read from people who cannot communicate simply because they did not pay attention in school. "...When am I going to use this?..." Well, I don't know, but are you going to limit yourself so early in your life. I taught math. I got so tired of getting 9th graders who did not know their multiplication tables. As an additional bonus...we allow these people to vote. You should have to pass a test.
  4. How would it compare to rubberized undercoat? Sound insulation value comparison?
  5. Silver ZXs came with black door panels, dash, kick panels. Red also. In 82 the blue & silver swapped colors. Blue seats to silver seats. Maybe the silver did too. I think red was only an 83 color.
  6. Q1: Do you not bottom out a lot? Q2: The adjustable camber and toe intrigues me. I have one pulling to the right. The right rear is toed in. Theory being it pushes the rear to the left and thus the front to the right. Did you make these yourself? Or were they a kit? Where were they sourced and how was it done. Amazing engineering.
  7. Why not take the radio panel with you? Along with any radar and GPS? If you have renter's insurance, they are covered.
  8. I take it you got it fixed. There is a fuse on the underside of the blower. Be advised, I had a bad rheostat....when you initially clicked it, it started the fan. If yours is going...it could be intermittant. You said you replaced it...perhaps also with the "new" one. Otherwise trace the wire from the switch to the fan.
  9. ..,.ac unit and defogger doesn't work and also the fan is constantly on... FSM located at xenons130.com....start troubleshooting There are different procedures depending on if it is auto air or manual. The vacuum hoses will control WHERE the air blows...i.e. defrost If there is even a minute crack, it will malfunction. Which fan is constantly on? AC doesn't work? Does that mean you do not get cold air or the air compressor does not come on? Be more explicit...it all matters. From the sounds of it I'd bet you had auto air...pain in the azz...Most of us converted to manual air...problems went away.
  10. Well the "liners" are the same color as the dash. I don't understand what your point is. Did the attaching tabs break off? Use a hot glue gun. You can build up support on the back. Then once positioned, run a bead on the outside next to the dash itself. It's not laike there is any stress there. However, before I worried with that, I'd fix all those cracks. Search and you will find where someone used insulation foam to fill the cracks and then sprayed over the dash. Final step was some SEM product that simulated grain or something. Otherwise your 2 alternatives is a dash cap which will eventually warp from the heat or a carpet pad.
  11. I'm assuming then you have auto air. And yes there was some kind of color code to the lines but it seems like there were quite a few white ones. I think the number one problem was in the 2 lines that went to the vacuum canister. One operated your vacuum controlled heater valve (the manual air had a cable operated valve)that defaults to the full heat position. The other hose operated the vents and doors and went thru that vacuum octopus. There is a multitude of sensors...one in top of your dash (that is the buzzing you hear) which somehow measure temp of the cabin air, there is one in the bumper next to the right turn signal to measure outside air. A few others who probably have dirty contacts. You will not know if it works properly until you get it back together. When working, the fan will slow down the closer you get to your desired temperature. Sometimes that recirc push switch is dirty and will not open the recirc door. You must remove the switch, drill out the 2 small rivets, and clean the points inside. I reassembled using cotter pins bent backward.
  12. What do you mean "to be in line?" They only go on one way, don't they?
  13. They just went out. The combo switch checks out OK. Even if I connect the #10 & 11 wire (page EL-73 of the FSM)at the main harness, I get nothing. The #11 pin on that connector is burned, but the fuses and fusible links check OK. The tail and stop light sensor has been swapped out. I'm thinking that #11 wire goes to a relay or even hidden fuse somewhere and that is the problem. Any thoughts or been down this road?
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