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Dat73z last won the day on April 6 2017

Dat73z had the most liked content!

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About Dat73z

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  1. Thanks for the feedback Tony. Wish I had known your tips for the funky hole drilling on the later boxes before. Useful information if I ever go for another set of carbs or ITBs in the future. I had considered making a spacer plate at that time but just ended up drilling out either end of the carbs taking care to ensure everything was centered and level. I think my concern was that even with the Mikuni short runner the manifold inlet on the later tank was coming pretty close to the shock tower. In hindsight making a spacer plate would have been easier and less time consuming. As I was measuring
  2. Wow I can't believe it's already been a year (married, house sale, moving, etc.) but this build goes on. Just dropped off the random stroker parts, spare n42 and p90 head I had laying around to Rebello earlier today. Figured it would be easier to drop them off at his shop which is local to me rather than keep moving them around while we're getting re-rooted. The new engine setup will be a 3.1 stroker, knife edged ld28 stroker crank, forged rods, pistons, p90 solid lifter head with supertech valves, headwork custom cam, ported mikuni short runner etc. Hopefully done in a few months
  3. I'm in, could use one for my vintage turbo build. Had Sean's 2.5 "JDM" twin exit muffler for a few years- truly a beautiful piece.
  4. The turbo looks great 👌. Maybe consider a shield instead of a blanket too. They have some bolt-on solutions or I've seen some posts online about people making one from a dollar store pot. https://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?326366-DIY-Turbo-Heat-Shield-write-up-with-pics
  5. Sounds like a neat project. Turbo setup is a standard Garrett ball bearing T3/T40E 50 trim/63 AR with the ATP ultimate internal gate, Tial 10psi actuator. What will you be running for ignition? Keep me posted on your build, always looking for more perspectives 👌 Build is still moving forward. Just got back from a long work trip and it's too smokey in CA from all the wildfires to make good progress.
  6. Been a busy week but finally getting back into this. Trimmed a spare valvecover to fit over the oil spray bar and buttoned up the rest of the fuel tank. Ended up running teflon AN washers on either side of each bulkhead fitting with a washer on the back to spread the load. Routed the return at the top of the tank which feeds back into the top of the black box. Hoping for no leaks and adequate return flow to maintain 3-4 PSI at the carbs with no boost. Still waiting for the AN fittings and stainless hardline to come in, but plenty to button up this weekend.
  7. Thanks for the offer 👌 I may take you up on that if this one doesn't work out.
  8. Thanks. Ultimately I'd like to get somewhere around 3-400+ whp. I don't think that will happen with this motor (I'm thinking 2-300+) so maybe a couple of years down the line I'll build the stroker on the side. This round is focusing on getting everything fabricated so I can put this setup on any L-series and running well enough to daily drive again.
  9. Thanks madkaw, who did you get your spray bar from? I think I got this from Brian at ZCC years ago. Good call on testing the spray pattern first. I will do that once I have the rest of the oiling system buttoned up.
  10. Had a couple mins tonight and started mounting a new oil spray bar I had for a long time. My old one was held together by silicone. Surprised the valvetrain looks so great- that Walmart special Rotella T6 puts in work.
  11. A question for the community: I believe the turbo studs are M10 x 1.5 and some rough measurements show the studs will need to be ~50-55mm long due to the 1/2" thick stainless flange I'm using to clearance the T40E/T3 from the exhaust manifold. Is anyone aware of a vendor/supplier that sells these studs in Inconel?
  12. 2nd Weekend Update: Had some time this morning before the wife and I do our Sunday thing. Pulled the gas tank out from storage and started cleaning/buttoning everything up. I feel bad that this thing has been covered in dust for so long. I'm going to set up the fittings for 6AN feed and 8AN return. It is a MONZTER copy gas tank so service plate up top, ATL blackbox with the Walbro 255 inside, modified OEM fuel level sender. Once the tank is bolted up I'll pull the trans and delete the old fuel lines and that one evap line which runs to the driver's side frame rail. I
  13. Weekend update: Test fit the wastegate actuator. It's a Tial MVI 2.5 unit with a 10lb spring. Tight fit and I'll need to fine tune the angle a bit more, but it looks it it will work.
  14. Thank you. Your airbox looks great! Really original use of a spare valve cover 😉. Yeah the shorty manifold is a bear to install and the studs must be the perfect length. I've had to pull and install it a couple times now to get everything to fit so I'm getting pretty good at it. Good call on the heat shield material. I have been thinking this over and I'm partly considering just sending all of the hot side components to ATP for their inconel treatment. The HKS carb mounting is rather curious. The holes do not line up with 44s. My friend also just picked up a set of Mi
  15. Pre weekend update: Did a test fit of the linkage assembly. It is apparent that I will need to use shorter turnbuckle? arms, but overall everything works well and operation is smooth. Just used some stuff I had around in the parts bin and some I imported from Japan and a McMaster-Carr hardened stainless 10mm rod to complete the setup. The Japanese setups are interesting in that the linkage rods I've dealt with so far for Z setups at least (Kameari, OER/SK, Mikuni) are all 10mm (~3/8 being the largest "typical" US size for the couple of manifolds I've worked on). Most US items are
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