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Dat73z

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Dat73z last won the day on April 6 2017

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About Dat73z

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  1. Not the entire shroud, just a small 1/8" lip top and bottom would stiffen the flat plate up significantly. Basically like this
  2. I think OP is underdriving their water pump and alternator with the ati damper. I think the underdrive is fairly significant but it's been a couple years (pre-covid) since I've last seen an ati running in person. Yes caps are just to keep junk out
  3. Yes just a flat piece of AL. So far as I can tell the ZCD bends serve 2 purposes: (1) air gap for those rads that don't have it and (2) add rigidity. With the Mishimoto rad you have an inset portion between the mounting surface and core so if you wanted to and has access to a large enough brake you could add some bends inwards on the top and bottom of the plate for rigidity. I would do this before you start cutting the holes for the fans. Alternatively, tig on some flat AL strips in those same areas or just use thicker AL. With the way it mounts at 4 corners though there's minimal flex
  4. @Zetsaz iirc they don't here's a pic of when I laid them on top see how they hang over the stepped edges (coffe table pic) so I traded it. Also some pics of what I ended up doing with some 0.080 AL.
  5. I had that shroud a while back, it's a nice piece that bolts up to the mishimoto mounting ears. Ended up traded it and made my own for some 12" spals because I wanted more clearance in front of the engine. For the fans it looks like they're rated at 1850cfm each so with 2 you pullers should be fine. I think the stock mechanical fan was rated at ~2600cfm but maybe others can chime in. Lots of great references on this site as well
  6. It is an inconel alloy custom heat shield. I sent the full assembly to these guys https://atpwrap.com/
  7. Realized I never updated. 2x 45s non swivel (for more clearance) did the trick. It's not perfect but it should work. Also realized I was cutting the 10an line all wrong. With a perfect cut, no frays, and some motor oil the line comes together really easily. The 6an and 8an was always more forgiving to me on this
  8. @AydinZ71 yep I had a similar dilemma...was moving and contemplated selling all of these random stroker parts I had laying around. Ended up dropping them off at Rebello since he was local to me and getting a 3.2 turbo stroker built. A monster NA would've cost about the same since labor is pretty constant
  9. Great progress. Are you planning to replace the dash pad or restore the dash while it's out? Now is a great time to do it
  10. Realized I haven't updated in a while but this build has been going on in the background. Did a bunch of welding this past few months and other mini projects to get things prepped. Started mounting up the intercooler, catch can, oil temp sensor, plumbing oil/coolant, and misc. accessories. For anyone doing this type of build the turbo gets really close to the shock tower. I think the charge piping I had mocked up before pulling the last motor had the turbo outlet lightly rubbing against it with the way I wanted things clocked. I welded a cast 90 which gives me another 1/2-1" of clearance.
  11. You already have a lot of great responses here. Not sure if there is a local Z community in KY but if you have the opportunity see if you can drive a stroker L and a turbo L to see what makes the most sense. IMO even a mild stroker or mild l28ET is a lot of fun in the light s30 chassis. The L28ET is likely going to be the best bang for your buck. My friend just got their 3.1 Rebello stroker race car with triple Mikuni 44's back on the road and if you're going to build it all of those parts and work are not cheap. If you really want to light money on fire you could do both a turbo and stroker b
  12. Thanks @Miles. I placed an order for the 15/16 from AZC. It's around the same price shipped as the Wilwood 1" MC. Hopefully no more leaks. FYI- it looks like Steven has taken over AZC from Dave full time now. Nice guy, I think he answered some Q's earlier this year on a bunch if AZC parts I purchased new from Dave a long time ago.
  13. Old thread but does anyone have recent experiences with the wilwood 1" mc's? I pulled mine off and it's weeping from the rear. I got maybe 20k miles out of it. I did like the pedal feel with wilwood 4 piston calipers front and rear but I'm debating to go with a 15/16 instead.
  14. Does anyone know of a vendor that still does louvered inspection lids? I see MSA does a core exchange and Skillard makes some nice ones from AL. Specifically I'm looking for someone who can do 6 vents with dimensions like the pictures below. The ones I've seen on the market today don't quite look right to me. Figured I'd ask before I start calling around. Thanks
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