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Dat73z

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Dat73z last won the day on April 6 2017

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About Dat73z

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  1. Thanks for the feedback Tony. Wish I had known your tips for the funky hole drilling on the later boxes before. Useful information if I ever go for another set of carbs or ITBs in the future. I had considered making a spacer plate at that time but just ended up drilling out either end of the carbs taking care to ensure everything was centered and level. I think my concern was that even with the Mikuni short runner the manifold inlet on the later tank was coming pretty close to the shock tower. In hindsight making a spacer plate would have been easier and less time consuming. As I was measuring I also think the previous owner of my car had already "clearanced" the bottom of the shock tower lightly above the frame rail back when the car was drawthrough turbo. Edit: Specifically what I had done was drill the holes enough to remove the threading where the trumpets used to mount via studs. The spacing at this point at the front of the manifold looked good with the bores for each carb aligned to the holes in the HKS v2 Surge Tank and the float tank pressurization port aligned as well. These dimensions looked ok and I bolted them up with stainless hex head hardware. I then had to drill out the rear mounting points for each carb to line up with the Mikuni manifold. I took care not to really hog out the holes. Just enough to be a hair under an interference fit with the manifold studs when slipping the carbs + surge tank on. I don't know what the ID of the Mikuni runners is but the OER 47 and the phenolic? spacers are much larger. I think Rebello is going to port everything between the head and the carbs- I'll need to confirm this. A question for you Tony if you read this and have input: How is venturi selection affected in a blowthrough setup? I currently have 36mm venturis on the OER 47s (the smallest they make for these carbs). I figured the smaller venturi would be good for off boost throttle response. I see NA cars running much larger venturis on these carbs, but we're cramming a lot more air in with the turbo. Got an update from Rebello earlier today- motor is moving along quicker than expected and they're already machining the block. We settled on the 8.5:1 compression ratio. BHK? dual row damper with a trigger wheel was selected in the event I decide to move off the 123 unit. Cam selection is still in the air.
  2. Wow I can't believe it's already been a year (married, house sale, moving, etc.) but this build goes on. Just dropped off the random stroker parts, spare n42 and p90 head I had laying around to Rebello earlier today. Figured it would be easier to drop them off at his shop which is local to me rather than keep moving them around while we're getting re-rooted. The new engine setup will be a 3.1 stroker, knife edged ld28 stroker crank, forged rods, pistons, p90 solid lifter head with supertech valves, headwork custom cam, ported mikuni short runner etc. Hopefully done in a few months and hopefully ready to throw back in if we can close on a new house sometime next year. Still need to decide on a compression ratio. Apparently my p90 head is straight and virgin according to Dave when he measured it out earlier today. I'm thinking 8.5:1 for safety on pump gas and off boost response but Brian and Dave mentioned we could go up to 9:1 if we shave the head. Seems risky esp with 91 CA pump gas. Car will be primarily street with some track time @ laguna seca which is my closest track. Any thoughts? I should probably add the custom pistons have a quench area which matches the p90 head. Dave was talking me through the benefits but some of the details were over my head having never built a stroker turbo motor myself.
  3. I'm in, could use one for my vintage turbo build. Had Sean's 2.5 "JDM" twin exit muffler for a few years- truly a beautiful piece.
  4. The turbo looks great 👌. Maybe consider a shield instead of a blanket too. They have some bolt-on solutions or I've seen some posts online about people making one from a dollar store pot. https://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?326366-DIY-Turbo-Heat-Shield-write-up-with-pics
  5. Sounds like a neat project. Turbo setup is a standard Garrett ball bearing T3/T40E 50 trim/63 AR with the ATP ultimate internal gate, Tial 10psi actuator. What will you be running for ignition? Keep me posted on your build, always looking for more perspectives 👌 Build is still moving forward. Just got back from a long work trip and it's too smokey in CA from all the wildfires to make good progress.
  6. Been a busy week but finally getting back into this. Trimmed a spare valvecover to fit over the oil spray bar and buttoned up the rest of the fuel tank. Ended up running teflon AN washers on either side of each bulkhead fitting with a washer on the back to spread the load. Routed the return at the top of the tank which feeds back into the top of the black box. Hoping for no leaks and adequate return flow to maintain 3-4 PSI at the carbs with no boost. Still waiting for the AN fittings and stainless hardline to come in, but plenty to button up this weekend.
  7. Thanks for the offer 👌 I may take you up on that if this one doesn't work out.
  8. Thanks. Ultimately I'd like to get somewhere around 3-400+ whp. I don't think that will happen with this motor (I'm thinking 2-300+) so maybe a couple of years down the line I'll build the stroker on the side. This round is focusing on getting everything fabricated so I can put this setup on any L-series and running well enough to daily drive again.
  9. Thanks madkaw, who did you get your spray bar from? I think I got this from Brian at ZCC years ago. Good call on testing the spray pattern first. I will do that once I have the rest of the oiling system buttoned up.
  10. Had a couple mins tonight and started mounting a new oil spray bar I had for a long time. My old one was held together by silicone. Surprised the valvetrain looks so great- that Walmart special Rotella T6 puts in work.
  11. A question for the community: I believe the turbo studs are M10 x 1.5 and some rough measurements show the studs will need to be ~50-55mm long due to the 1/2" thick stainless flange I'm using to clearance the T40E/T3 from the exhaust manifold. Is anyone aware of a vendor/supplier that sells these studs in Inconel?
  12. 2nd Weekend Update: Had some time this morning before the wife and I do our Sunday thing. Pulled the gas tank out from storage and started cleaning/buttoning everything up. I feel bad that this thing has been covered in dust for so long. I'm going to set up the fittings for 6AN feed and 8AN return. It is a MONZTER copy gas tank so service plate up top, ATL blackbox with the Walbro 255 inside, modified OEM fuel level sender. Once the tank is bolted up I'll pull the trans and delete the old fuel lines and that one evap line which runs to the driver's side frame rail. I need to measure out how much stainless line to order. I am going to assume bending 6AN and 8AN stainless will be a bear, but it needs to get done. Huge shout out to Ivan @ Vintage Spirit Garage over in Albany (no affiliation). I don't have the means in my garage to fab this up so I called around a bunch of local race / custom fab shops in the bay area and nobody wanted to take on this project. I just dropped off the parts and the work was done to a high standard and in a timely fashion. You can check out their Instagram page here: https://www.instagram.com/vintagespiritgarage/?hl=en
  13. Weekend update: Test fit the wastegate actuator. It's a Tial MVI 2.5 unit with a 10lb spring. Tight fit and I'll need to fine tune the angle a bit more, but it looks it it will work.
  14. Thank you. Your airbox looks great! Really original use of a spare valve cover 😉. Yeah the shorty manifold is a bear to install and the studs must be the perfect length. I've had to pull and install it a couple times now to get everything to fit so I'm getting pretty good at it. Good call on the heat shield material. I have been thinking this over and I'm partly considering just sending all of the hot side components to ATP for their inconel treatment. The HKS carb mounting is rather curious. The holes do not line up with 44s. My friend also just picked up a set of Mikuni 40 type 4's I'll try in a couple of days, but I was under the impression the casting between the 40 and the 44 were the same. Maybe the Type 1 Surge Tanks and SK units have it better. The motor is the #'s matching block which has been bored out and fitted with low compression pistons. I have no idea what it is, but the previous owner ran it on drawthrough turbo in the 80's and it was supposedly fast. The kit was in the trunk when I bought the car and the RAYJAY turbo was about the size of my head if that's any indication. Much longer term once I'm done lighting money on fire here I have a L28 block sonic tested good for a massive overbore in my garage along with a knife edged stroker crank from my friend Eric. Eric, if you're reading this I lost your contact- thanks again man and come over to hang out sometime.
  15. Pre weekend update: Did a test fit of the linkage assembly. It is apparent that I will need to use shorter turnbuckle? arms, but overall everything works well and operation is smooth. Just used some stuff I had around in the parts bin and some I imported from Japan and a McMaster-Carr hardened stainless 10mm rod to complete the setup. The Japanese setups are interesting in that the linkage rods I've dealt with so far for Z setups at least (Kameari, OER/SK, Mikuni) are all 10mm (~3/8 being the largest "typical" US size for the couple of manifolds I've worked on). Most US items are this smaller diameter or even smaller which makes finding Japanese components stateside difficult. In the earlier pictures you can see I ended up pressing in and reaming out some 10mm oilite bushings for the linkage rod rather than running the teflon bushings. Also test fit the sandwich plate for the oil cooler. Either way, still just typical triple setup/parts so far so nothing crazy just yet which is good. I'll start fabricating the bracketry for the throttle cable setup which is already installed from my last triple setup this weekend. I'm going to attempt to streamline it all and run the shortest non-binding cable setup I can. Wastegate and more components comes in tomorrow and AN fittings/hose for coolant and fuel next week. Just a long wait now for parts to slowly trickle in.
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