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Dat73z last won the day on March 20

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  1. The idea is to use the lease aggressive cutting method to achieve the result. I've found on really hard paint I might use a hard pad but fine compound. Or on really soft paint, a soft pad and soft compound. Some cars I've found there's really no need to go in a lot of stages, one or two could do it with a great result. On the edges you could also lay down a tape line just to be safe for burnthrough. Lots of great videos out there now, here's one on water spritzing. Once you've found the right combo it should go pretty quick and you'll get a great result. Good luck and keep at it!
  2. I'll grab some more pics this weekend when I get back into it. I have the exhaust off currently to check the torque on all the rear end fasteners. With the way I have the diff and rear muffler hangers positioned, the exhaust can't move more than a couple mm in any direction even when I'm banging or pulling on it as the hangers use poly bushings. This probably also means I'll get more vibrations in the cabin
  3. I run the 300mm t3 bbk front and rear, 15x8 0 offset Rota rkr, 225 50 15. I'm planning to go 15x9 and 245 45 all around. For the t3 bbk the rears with the ebrake mechanism are hard to clear 15s. I told the tire techs to be really careful where they stuck the weights and marked the areas where they should go.
  4. Waiting on parts and time so decided to finish up a few small projects. I forgot to post these pics earlier but I braced the rear exhaust section with an adapter bracket + hanger off the OE diff exhaust strap mount. My welds aren't the best because I had 15 minutes to do it and was rushing but oh well it's done. I also have some brackets fitup for the front bracing but I'm not sure if I want to weld it up as I'm undecided on the final driveline. I want to run a s15 6 speed with a PAR gearset 1-5 or the 1-4 in my s13 trans. Something to figure out later
  5. And after plugging in the remaining sensors for the turbo build last night it turns out the O2 sensor I ordered is incorrect. I placed an order for the correct O2 sensor and was promptly hit with the supply chain mfg backorder message ship date tbd 🤬. Hopefully I won't be waiting 6 months like I had for other pieces. I feel like this past couple of years has been a struggle to get parts but I'll take it as a sign to wrap up the things I've been putting off on other parts of the car.
  6. Looks good keep it up 👍 Some tips on the buffing: the tools and compounds you use makes a huge difference. I think 10 or 15 yrs ago I tried wetsanding and buffing a car at home with turtle wax and a drill like you're using. It was extremely difficult and I got poor results, burnthrough in areas as well. At the shop we used a rotary, wool pad, and 3m compound for freshly painted cars. Ended up buying a cheap porter cable DA and a bottles of meguiars m105/m205 for home use. I got pro level results and was able to do an entire car in a day. It was worth the cost and I still use the porter cable today. you probably know this since you're doing it but you don't want to go excessive on the compound as you want it to break down. You can spray the pad or panel with water if you need more cutting action or longer spot work times
  7. Fortunately or unfortunately with the way gas prices are I'll probably only need a couple oil changes per year... Yeah I'm running oil temp from the pan to a channel on my Stack integrated tach. Good info on oil temps. I don't recall why I went so far overboard on the oil system but I suspect I'm going to run into significant overcooling issues on the street. I was thinking the other day I'll probably have to go through $20 of gas just to get up to temp 😂
  8. Thanks @rossman and good info.Rebello put a pump on the engine so I assume it's good...we will see 😅 Counting the bottles I realized I put in 8 quarts with the big oil filter minus a small amount of oil from the turbo feed when I was testing. That gets me to the high mark of I think the 280zx dipstick...need to check the part # on that. I am going to assume I'll need to dump in another quart or two for the volume of the oil cooler and lines once the oil thermo valve opens. Basically the same volume of oil as my Porsche at 10+ quarts...expensive oil changes. Now to figure out if I dump that in before or after the first start.
  9. Had an hour open up this PM so I got the surge tank off and flushed then tightened the rest of the lines. I already flushed the stainless hardlines with acetone after I pressure tested the fuel system. Last thing is to set timing. I think that's about it until my buddies can make it out in a week or two. The strategy will be to fire it up and sync the carbs, let it heatcycle/burp the coolant then fully cool down, recheck torque on all fasteners, fire it up to check everything over, surge tank on and we're boosting. There are some areas I want to make some heatshields for, like the brake distribution block on the firewall. Not sure if I want to get into that or focus on other areas around the car. Probably no more turbo updates until it's back on the road for shakedown.
  10. Out of time for today but I did manage to prime the oil system. Turbo and head are getting oil and pressure is building. I found it interesting Rebello did an internally oiled cam with spray bar. Little by little day by day... 20220625_113037.mp4
  11. This morning my wife postponed our day out to tomorrow so I went through the oil system one final time. I flushed all the lines and checked torque for all fittings. This afternoon I'm going to prime the system to ensure oil is getting to the head and turbo. Lots of small details to cover before the first start.
  12. Tonight I started buttoning up the dozen or so minor things around the car which needed to get done. One of which was the boost gauge illumination.
  13. Got the harness back in and verified all circuits work. I ended up relooming the headlight harness with the Tesa tape as well. A couple more sub harnesses to loom in like the fans and the electrical is complete. I think I may go for a first start this weekend if time permits. Really since I took the entire car apart for this build I should put a wrench on everything one last time just to be sure, especially the driveline.
  14. This morning I was able to finish looming the harness. I really liked how the Tesa tape laid down. I had an oopsie on one section and the tape doesn't leave any residue but sticks to itself really well. Before I reassemble for the last time, I'm going to flush out the cooler lines just in case. I've read/heard a lot of horror stories over the years of finishing a build and some junk in the lines grenades the motor.
  15. This morning I pulled the harness out of the car for looming. I'm going to depin a couple of unused connectors from the MSD harness and then I think it's good. It feels like a big day, a lot of work over a week to get to this point. Fortunately I have most of today off work but unfortunately my back is taking a beating from all this. Going to see how far I can get today. Losing patience, really want to just get it done but also done right since I'm already at the tail end.
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