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Bilster

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About Bilster

  • Birthday 07/06/1959

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  1. TPI began in 1985 for both F-cars and Corvettes but roller cam did not begin until 1986. The 1985 TPI cars were the only non-roller cam, two piece main seal motors. 1986 began the roller cam, one piece main seal motors.
  2. Terry, I'm kind of a newbie to this site. What is the body kit you are using? Is it your own design?
  3. Mating a T56 behind a pre-85 SBC is not a big deal. It is done to 3rd gen F cars quite frequently. You need a T56 from an LT1 powered F car and a Centerforce flywheel specifically for the two piece crank to make it happen. After that it's a custom crossmember for your Z and then the easiest path would be adapt the F-car hydraulics. Should be nothing more than getting an adapter plate that puts the master cylinder at the correct angle. There are one's made for early Chevelles that gives you an idea what is required. Here is the F car adapt link. http://www.skulte.com/T56.html You could go the Muncie bellhousing route but I don't know why you would want to do early Chevy linkage instead of hydraulics in a Z car application. The adapter plate is expensive. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TREMEC-T56-CUSTOM-ADAPTOR-CHEVELLE-CAMARO_W0QQitemZ300021019710QQcmdZViewItem
  4. There is two T56's. One for the LT-1 which will physically bolt up to the Gen 1 SBC and the other for the LS1 which will only bolt up to an LS1. Make sure you are getting the one for your application.
  5. Tonyz, I accidentally purchased a B&M Transpack for a 350c mistaking it for a regular 350 Turbo. If you peddle the 350c, make mention that you know of a Transpack for sale...cheap!
  6. I have a set of the Protopline Vortec heads. I think they are great. They fix all the deficencies that the GM factory Vortecs have. Very thick decks that can be milled to 50cc, rocker studs already drilled, larger spring pads, cut down guides for big valve lift, improved cooling. Bought mine bare and assembled them with Manley Streetflo valves, Comp springs, and ARP rocker studs for $700. Easily outflow my factory Vortecs. The only disappointment was the castings needed a good cleaning before assembly. Machine filings throughout.
  7. Oops...not smart to say exact and then list changes but... yes I did use the same Comp Cams camshaft, the same head part number but upgraded to the bigger valves and they received the AFR CNC port work. The heads were an eBay steal because as you probably know, they are not available from AFR anymore. I paid $750 from eBay and they needed very little to get going. If you are an eBay player put the part number 190SHST in your preferences alert. I trolled for a couple of years with that part number and was alerted to three sets in that time frame. I jumped on the first ones. 190SHST is the AFR part number. The larger valves really fill up the 58cc chambers. I would highly recommend this upgrade because the 400's 4.125" bore gives plenty of breathing room and you want to take advantage of that fact. Forget the $2500 price tag Hot Rod put on this build. Even with horse trading, eBaying and discounts, I still hit the $4000 mark. The crank is a steel 327 large journal. Many people think that they are extremely rare. They are in passenger cars but not in buses. The steel forged 327 crank was used in countless school bus applications of the era. I saw on eBay that a manufacturer is selling off two 4340 steel forged lightened versions. They went unsold probably because the popularity of big cubes right now. The pistons are SRP forgies for a 400 with 6" rods. If you want to save $100, you can go with Keith Blacks or equivalent hyperuetectic. I'm going to NOS mine so I went forged. I upgraded to Max Seal rings by Total Seal. 400's are crack prone in some areas so I went with ARP main studs and head studs. Used deck plugs with holes punched out to about 1/2" for cooling. This strengthened the deck. ALWAYS...ALWAYS...ALWAYS have 400 blocks magged. The 6.25" length rods were from Dyno-flo. It's their house brand and they may be Chinese but they are good for 600 hp and they weigh an amazing 605 grams for just under $400!! I knew that even sprayed, I was going to be under 600 (150Hp NOS kit) so I feel safe. I would be glad to post pictures. Can I do that? Can't figure it out. I am a big believer in the long rod motor. Many other members on other sites are balking at the concept. I am in the process now of building a nice standard 350 short block. The same cam, intake, heads, etc. will be bolted on and I will compare the two against each other. I can tell, by experience, there is no way in hell that a standard 350 will run on anything less than premium at 11:1. The long rod will and quite nice, thank you. No overheating or knocking. And...unless the AFR's are monster heads and they bring alot of hp's to the table. I doubt the standard 350 will match the long rods power. I mean it rips and still manages 20+ mpgs with a 4:10 gear and a T5 transmission.
  8. I have built this exact motor. It is a true screamer. A couple of deviations were I went with 6.25" rods so I could use off the shelf SRP flat tops originally designed for a 400 with 6" rods. I also have the AFR's with the 2.06"/1.64" inch valve combo with AFR's CNC porting. As the article states, the sensitivity to detonation is much lower. I run 86 octane for tooling around. I do run premium when trolling for Mustangs. Mine is backed by a Tremec 5 speed, factory lightweight flywheel. It really is frightening and ripped the heck out of the stock factory Datsun rear. I'm trying to adapt a C4 Corvette third member at the moment.
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