Oops...not smart to say exact and then list changes but... yes I did use the same Comp Cams camshaft, the same head part number but upgraded to the bigger valves and they received the AFR CNC port work. The heads were an eBay steal because as you probably know, they are not available from AFR anymore. I paid $750 from eBay and they needed very little to get going. If you are an eBay player put the part number 190SHST in your preferences alert. I trolled for a couple of years with that part number and was alerted to three sets in that time frame. I jumped on the first ones. 190SHST is the AFR part number. The larger valves really fill up the 58cc chambers. I would highly recommend this upgrade because the 400's 4.125" bore gives plenty of breathing room and you want to take advantage of that fact.
Forget the $2500 price tag Hot Rod put on this build. Even with horse trading, eBaying and discounts, I still hit the $4000 mark. The crank is a steel 327 large journal. Many people think that they are extremely rare. They are in passenger cars but not in buses. The steel forged 327 crank was used in countless school bus applications of the era. I saw on eBay that a manufacturer is selling off two 4340 steel forged lightened versions. They went unsold probably because the popularity of big cubes right now. The pistons are SRP forgies for a 400 with 6" rods. If you want to save $100, you can go with Keith Blacks or equivalent hyperuetectic. I'm going to NOS mine so I went forged. I upgraded to Max Seal rings by Total Seal. 400's are crack prone in some areas so I went with ARP main studs and head studs. Used deck plugs with holes punched out to about 1/2" for cooling. This strengthened the deck. ALWAYS...ALWAYS...ALWAYS have 400 blocks magged. The 6.25" length rods were from Dyno-flo. It's their house brand and they may be Chinese but they are good for 600 hp and they weigh an amazing 605 grams for just under $400!! I knew that even sprayed, I was going to be under 600 (150Hp NOS kit) so I feel safe. I would be glad to post pictures. Can I do that? Can't figure it out.
I am a big believer in the long rod motor. Many other members on other sites are balking at the concept. I am in the process now of building a nice standard 350 short block. The same cam, intake, heads, etc. will be bolted on and I will compare the two against each other. I can tell, by experience, there is no way in hell that a standard 350 will run on anything less than premium at 11:1. The long rod will and quite nice, thank you. No overheating or knocking. And...unless the AFR's are monster heads and they bring alot of hp's to the table. I doubt the standard 350 will match the long rods power. I mean it rips and still manages 20+ mpgs with a 4:10 gear and a T5 transmission.