meijerbrantm

So, just noticed this this morning. It must have fallen off while I was driving. That being said, I need a new one because the whole thing is MIA. If anyone has one, please let me know. Thanks

like i said before though, is that my distributor has one bolt in it. You know the area that the distributor has for play (two ellipses on top and bottom)? My top one was cut so that it could mechanically advance more than it should. Now that being said, My distributor's bolt is going through the cut (meaning there is no way to fit a second bolt on the bottom cut unless i cut the outer edge of it. So, said before, I'm 7 degrees off. If I retard the distributor 7 degrees and advance the trigger angle 14, shouldn't that do the trick so that my distributor is within specifications that it should be (on the engine block itself). that way i can put two bolts in it to lock it down.

Alright, well again yeah my distributor is way too mechanically advanced. So, according to what you say, I should retard the distributor. Then advance the trigger timing to match my map for spark (which is a map that someone else on this forum made for the l28et) then that way any adjustment I make there changes the actual timing then. I appreciate the help.

Alright, well I'm trying to read how to set timing via http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/23244-megasquirtnspark-mssmsns-installation-guide/ My setup is at Trigger Angle - 65 Trigger Angle Addition - +22.5 Cranking Timing - Time Based Cranking advance Angle - 20 Hold Ignition - 2 Spark output Inverter - No Fixed Angle - -10 Trim Angle - 0 So now on my map I have that at 500/1000 RPM and 20/30 kPa at 25 Degrees. I have my distributor advanced only to 18 degrees, meaning it should be even more advanced to 25 degrees at idle? Now, this trigger angle, I should be able to put a higher number then I can retard my distributor quite a bit. Because I know the previous owner only has one screw in the distributor and had cut out the one side so it could be advanced more than allowed. Also, I'd say that changing the distributor timing to be more retarded than advanced is "okay" isn't it? The only thing I'd end up damaging my system is if I shift the map that it advances it way too much. Or at least that's what makes sense to me.

Yeah, so more stupidness. I can see on MS-2 how to check the trigger angle... but ms-1 i'm not having such luck... anyone know where it is?

I don't honestly know how i wasn't being specific about problems. The ones I have I feel are gremlins for a initially shitty setup megasquirt. Just nudges in the right direction is all that I wanted. Not a bunch of people that are obviously superior to me when it comes to knowledge of the datsun and MS-1 that have nothing good to say... as in the post above me of course. at least the other posts, as negative as they may have been, had some good information in them too.

The previous owner setup the car and it ran awful when I got it. Claimed he tuned it with a narrowband... Needless to say it runs an awfully lot better than it used to. It's got a random misfire in it that I can't figure out (seems to happen everytime you start it, then cures itself eventually after a few accelerations. So I assume it has to deal with the dwell settings). I also, never looked at the TB itself, I was just reading online before I went out to the car to work on it. Again, I'm not a genius when it comes to MS on its setup, and definitely not when it has to be run of a distributor. I setup a MS-2 on a VW running off the engine speed sensor (60-2 wheel) and that was a lot more straight forward using multiple coil drivers to drive a coilpack and what not. This has a lot more fine tuning adjustments that I'm not completely knowledgeable about. I'm sorry that I'm not complete with my descriptions, but I also am just not sure what exactly is all the required information that you need in order to help me. I will have to dive more deep into this I guess before I ask of any assistance... I just have a hard time trying to find things when I research online that is a tad more specific to my needs.

I actually believe I'm using a 240sx 60mm throttle body. Do those have idle adjustment screws?

How do I adjust the idle speed? I don't believe the TB has an idle adjustment screw on it at all on the turbo motors. I've also never noticed anything in megasquirt for adjusting the idle, but maybe I'm blind? This is my first megasquirted car, and I've been slowly trying to figure out all the little quirks with it. I'm sorry that I ask such noobie questions but I just don't have a large knowledge base on what I'm currently doing.

edit... cached double post

My timing is at 18 degrees. I'm running MSextra, fuel and spark via GM HEI... I wasn't sure my readings were right, i've looked again for it and haven't found any information on ignition timing actual values. I also feel like I can't do it by revving it up to 3k and adjusting the dizzy due to megasquirt adjusting timing differently than what the stock ecu should be. Also, at idle, yes I'm getting 950-1000 rpms but my vacuum is at 21mmHg. Also, my AFR's at idle when warmed up is about 13.1-13.5, and 11's on cold start. Now one thing I do noticed when messing with the ignition timing of the dizzy, if I get too retarded, when you try to accelerate, you will get some sort of weird fire, and vacuum will shoot up to zero for a split second and you can hear it. I can't really explain it well. I was running it at 10 degrees earlier, and it idled in the 800's which i think is more accurate, but there was noticeably no/lack of power. Now with it advanced it runs awesome for power, but the idle being so high concerns me.

I have an l28et and I searched around but am having some issues. I read that Ignition Timing for the Dizzy should be from 17-20 at idle. The thing is now I idle at almost 1000 rpms. I'm not sure if this is an issue between megasquirt and the distributor? I know that my dizzy only has one bolt in it and the left side of the adjuster has been cut out so that it could be adjusted higher than what it can from the factory. So I'm not sure exactly why this happening and if anyone has any ideas I'd appreciate it.

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found it but there's two listed. one for 8 7/8" and one for 9 1/2" clutch... I'm assuming I need the 9 1/2"? just making sure

that's what i'd like to get, but i'm not sure of either the part number or where to source one. Any leads?

I just picked up a South Bend l28et clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. To make sure I have the right collar in my 240z, I'm just going to buy another one. I'm not really sure where to source these. The dealership was no help because they just have like 4 different part numbers for the same year and what not. So does anyone either know what the part number is that I need. I also have the stock 240z 4 speed in my car. Also, someone on here has the "type B 4 speed". Now I know it's bigger than the 5 speed one I need, but I have an adjustable slave and I'm just wondering if it will adjust small enough so that I could use that one. Any insight would be appreciative. Thanks!

has to be 240z from what i read... Unless the gears can some how be pulled and interchanged as mine is just slipping... :-/

thanks! i thought i read something about just changing the bell housings or something, but maybe i misread. thanks again.

I'm wanting to pick up a 5 speed to swap into my 240z to get rid of the 4 speed... I believe 280z and 280zx and maybe z31 bolts straight up? Anyone got anything for me that's not too far away from Michigan

Exactly what the title says. Mine is slipping and only roll's down about an inch before it starts to slip, unless someone can send me a way to fix it.

exact scenario... I have a 240z with a 4 speed and an l28et on megasquirt. Oilpump failed (oil pressure shot to zero), pulled the l28et, got one from a junk yard, and bolted it in.

Again, I swapped an l28et out for l28et... meaning the car was already setup for an l28et clutch, meaning it had the appropriate throw out bearing and collar. So, that should be over-ruled should it not? Also, The slave it has a flat head end on one side, and two locking bolts right? one on the inside threads and one on the outside threads. I was saying i adjusted it to it's maximum length that it could do and have no clutch disengaging...

the centerforce clutch is for an l28et so the throw out bearing should have already been for an l28et

So, I toasted a l28et in my 240z (with a 4 speed). So I picked up a junk yard motor. My centerforce clutch was slipping pretty hard so I decided to just use the stock clutch that was on the motor for now until I picked up a new clutch. So, motor is in starts up runs and is great. I push the clutch in, it has pressure, and can't get it into gears, grinds everywhere. So I went to the slave cylinder to adjust and the slave is already adjusted as far out as it can go (I'm assuming I got this right, the further the fork from the cylinder the further out it's adjusted right?). The clutch pedal still feels like it has normal travel and what not. From what I read, I should be able to interchange trans from a 280zx and my 240z without any other changes using a clutch for the l28et. I just don't know why I can't get the clutch to disengage, which is why I'm here asking for some ideas. So... any ideas? oh also, before I pulled the motor, I never had problems engaging the centerforce clutch whatsoever, it'd just slip in 3rd and 4th under hard acceleration.

How much torque will the stock clutch hold? The reason I'm asking is because I currently have a centerforce clutch on my car that's slipping hard in 3rd and 4th and fi.. oh wait i don't have a fifth gear... I recently lost oil pressure in my L28et and boom, toasted... I picked up a new l28et and it has a stock clutch on it. Now I'm running 440cc injectors on a t3/t04 running only about 10 psi. The centerforce is "drivable" but it's not any good. As long as I don't up the boost, do you think the stock clutch will hold? I'm planning on getting a 5 speed and a new clutch eventually for the 240, but right now it's just not in the budget. Thanks