meijerbrantm

Alright so I have a fully assembled MS2 V3 board. I'm having some issues though. I'm using a vr sender. First being my MAP sensor is reading around 148 and it should only be round 96 or something (that's what my map reads in my other car with MS). I'm running 3 coil drivers. Doing everything from what DIY Autotune has. I ran the ground of the additional two drivers to the third leg of the first driver, is that okay? Jumpers: VRIN -> Tachselect TSEL -> VROut IGN -> IGBOut When I turn the MS on with my stim. The three LED's stay on constantly (in MS). The only LED i ever see light up on the STIM is the Pump. But, besides the RPM pot's, the other four pots do adjust values in MegaTune. I was assuming the RPM was just not showing due to the VR sensor stuff. It's a V2 Stim by the way. I noticed that my stim seems pretty ancient. it has a pot for for: tps, o2, iat, and clt all that work, but then there's one for RPMf and RPMC (which do nothing with my symptoms) Anyways any insight at what may be causing at least the high MAP reading? My car currently runs on MS1 V2.2 and I'm wanting to build a board to remove the dizzy.

I'm sorry, but you did misinform. They are not interchangeable. So, I'm mostly just writing here to inform anyone who does search. they do NOT match. Your's must be changed. The 240z has to be thinner, so as long as you have the metal surroundings for your tail lights and what not, it will need to be trimmed.

I'm running an L28et on Megasquirt. I'm really confused on what injectors I'm able to use. To me, it seems that the only drop in replacement are benz 450SEL injectors. I want to go the pallnet route, but he's currently not making rails. Is there any other style of injector that you can use with the stock rail with little to no modifications? I see people always use DSM injectors but I'm assuming they aren't using the stock rail or anything. If anyone has any info on this I'd appreciate it. I do searches but can't seem to come up with the proper information I'm looking for. also, do some people use o-ring injectors and i just attach a hose to them (after removing the o-ring)?

ah, thanks, i got a little bit of a run around... much appreciated!

i'll bump this up... i believe they are model specific... or at least a 280z one won't work

Well, it seems that fuel rails are not being made as of right now. So, I need to get one. It doesn't matter to me which injector size it fits (DSM or Bosch). I actually have a set of bosch 42#'s laying around so I guess I'd prefer that. Let me know if you got one. Thanks!

So... Another issue, before when I was getting fuel cut, i would see the boost gauge hit up to 6 psi... now without fuel cut, i'm getting only 2... Now I know there is a difference between leaner and richer air, but a 4 psi difference? I just don't see that as being right... Oh and does anyone know an easy fix to a leaky oil feed? I'm assuming I can't just pick up replacement parts at autozone or anything..

i don't think that old, like 4 years maybe? It actually all looks okay inside, but one piece just must have escaped. I think I may just put some sort of screen in front of the drain inside of it. Now to tune the thing... Running way too rich haha.

For anyone that may have been curious. The splash foam inside of my fuel cell must have deteriorated a little at one point. Some pieces of it were all jammed inside my fuel pump. Replaced the pump with my Wabro 255 and it's now running great!

So, I want the piece above the license plate (light and black plastic). Mine is not existent. Let me know if you have one from parting a z out or something. Thanks!

well, i've read that the MSD fuel pump is stupid loud anyways. There is no inline fuel filter, but from what I can see, in my tank, i don't see any debris (fuel cell). The pump has 5k on it and i've heard them going bad in less than that... so i guess it's worth a try.

Well first I'd like to say hi. I've always been quite the Z enthusiast and finally picked myself up one. It's a 240z running MSnS-E with an L28ET in it. I knew it wasn't running 100% from the get go. So I picked up myself a wideband and started to get to work. The symptoms that I'm having is that under load it seems to die. If i'm accelerating by just barely touching the pedal, it'll usually go okay, but the second I put it down the floor I hear what seems to be nothing. So yesterday, I actually started screwing around with the tune. When I had it first, at idle it was doing around 12-13 on my AFRs. I used the map that mobythevan has on here, and well my afr's are now in the 14's and it seems to idle at about 800-900 rpms. So not bad... Taking it for a spin that day, it actually seems to accelerate quite a bit better, so I'm thinking that this tune has to be better than what I had before. Although once I get into a more generous load and try to build any boost, the car again seems like it has fuel cut. So I just kept on driving it and decided that i'd get it home, i'm seeing around 14-16 afrs with no load, so I'm thinking I'm not too bad. It's lean but again if it's not doing this under a hard load, it shouldn't be damaging. Anyways, so I keep on driving and all of a sudden any fuel I'm giving it is now starting to cut.. the car is hesitating and I'm thinking that I blew something up. I get it pulled into a parking space, turn it off. Try to start it, and it just keeps turning over and no start. So I load my original tune, same thing. Now, I have the noisest fuel pump and to me I feel like it was making a lot quieter sound when I have the key turned (the fuel pump is not relayed, just permanently on if key is turned). Anyways, can't get it to start, get a buddy tow it home. About 5 hours later, I say what the hell and try to start it, and low and behold it starts. I try to rev it, and i'm seeing my afr's jump to 20's and the rev is missing for sure. So I'm assuming the high afr's were to cylinders just not firing, but at idle again afr's are normal and it idles fine. So, I'm just thinking that my fuel pump may possibly be faulty and that I may be dropping fuel pressure under load. Do you think I'm taking a step in the right direction? I have a walbro 255 inline that I can slap in there and try it out. I've replaced the plugs (which could be possibly fouled from running rich on the old tune [what plugs would you say i should use? i threw some NGK Coppers in there because it's what I used on my turbo charged vr6 jetta that i used to have and ran awesome]). Any other advice you'd give me? I put a screwdriver to all my injectors and I can hear all of those actually shooting, so I don't think it's those. Any help would be appreciated. Oh other question which may just be stupid on my part. My AFR Gauge and AFR's in MS are not equal. I have them grounded to the same place, but not powered. Also, this could be why, but for my ground (lc-1 by the way) i just attached all 3 wires to one and grounded them to the same place as MS. Should these 3 wires just all be separated and attached to that or is it okay what I've done. Thanks oh and here's a picture for fun

so i've been doing some searching and just trying to find a straight forward answer on transmissions... when doing an rb swap, you need a rb25det trans correct? now if that trans ever destroys it's internals, i can use the internals from a z32? This is where I just keep getting confused because i see z32 thrown around so much when talking about the rb swaps. Also, the final drive of these trans match the stock 240z rear diff or am I having to use the rb25 rear diff as well? Only the drive train area is what's concerning me on this swap and I find it hard to find a straight forward answer. Thanks