matteo

cool dash. this is what mine is looking like right now. i started a thread dashboard proj but no real responses. check mine out how are you planning on supporting the aluminum? i'm using a framed out steel cage beneath the aluminum

yeah, NX5 and NX4 are like exactly the same think. i heard people didn't even like 5 as much as 4. we'll see about 6 though! but really, any help with putting servos together for these vent systems would be awesome.

I'm trying to build my own dashboard because the current one is all cracked up, smells, and weighs a lot. i've spec.ed out all the parts but now i have to actually build it. which is a little harder than i thought it would be. I need to have the heat/ac controls functioning with the vents and heat/ac. I've looked at many model cars to do this but interestingly enough the 350z looks like it would be a perfect candidate. so i went to the junkyard yesterday and tried to get some guys to pull the system from a 350 for me but they said that it worked by servos opening and closing the vents. Could i still implement this system for my new dash? i don't know which kind of heat/ac inputs there are but was thinking there'd be power to them and an accessory to tell when the car was turned on. basically do they work like head units? just supply power and accessory and then wire everything from there? and would that work out for the 350? or would i be able to take the 350 dash and put it in the 240 with the modifications i'm thinking of. This is what the dash will hopefully look like when i'm done. thanks! -work being done at custom fab and finish cffpowder.com

I'm trying to build my own dashboard because the current one is all cracked up, smells, and weighs a lot. i've spec.ed out all the parts but now i have to actually build it. which is a little harder than i thought it would be. I need to have the heat/ac controls functioning with the vents and heat/ac. I've looked at many model cars to do this but interestingly enough the 350z looks like it would be a perfect candidate. so i went to the junkyard yesterday and tried to get some guys to pull the system from a 350 for me but they said that it worked by servos opening and closing the vents. Could i still implement this system for my new dash? i don't know which kind of heat/ac inputs there are but was thinking there'd be power to them and an accessory to tell when the car was turned on. basically do they work like head units? just supply power and accessory and then wire everything from there? and would that work out for the 350? or would i be able to take the 350 dash and put it in the 240 with the modifications i'm thinking of. This is what the dash will hopefully look like when i'm done. thanks! -work being done at custom fab and finish cffpowder.com

thanks guys, you were right they were for the rear. i did talk to motorsport again and that's what they told me. i've been waiting up on this part. the only place i can think of now are junkyards because motorsport doesn't carry those nuts for the front. who would have thought. i'll get in touch with zbarn. they're my other go-to shop. p.s. anyone look at the site?

hey guys, i called motorsport and they wont call me back. but i can't find spindle nuts anywhere. they sent me their version of them but i don't have my car right here but they must be wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy too small. i know it needs to me an m18 with a pitch of 1. these nuts they sent were really small. here is what my car is looking like now and i'm only missing these castle nuts to put it on wheels. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH! also i made a website for the friend who's shop it is in. it's not finished but this is what it looks like. http://www.cffpowder.com tell me what you think and maybe if you know of where i can advertise to get him some work. thanks Matteo

My car itself is still down at school but i have the doors up here with me for the summer. i don't know if you guys have the same problems as i do with my doors but the window crank stud has lost all of it's teeth on both doors, and the locking mechanism doesn't move at all. i took the cardboard and vynl off to see what i could do and i replaced the locking cylinder still with no help. it seems like both sides of the doors are welded together from the factory and now i can't get in to do like any work. i was thinking about taking everything out of the door and replacing the handles and locking assembly with poppers, and the window cranking assembly with power windows. how is this usually done? where are some good places to get the parts? thanks, Matteo '72 240

Hey everyone. was wondering if i could get some help for finding a good system to install for my electrical components. the windows and the locking mechanisms on my current doors are aweful and looking at the design flaws of the original Zs, i'm not looking to stay with my current configuration. i have a 74 datsun 240z and i'm looking for a system which would include: poppers electric windows alarm system the windows could be separate from the rest of the system i guess. anyone have a suggestion for a good manufacturer? i'd also like to have a system with mechanical release from the inside so if the doors fail i can open them again. also, instead of AC or heat i was looking at these with some fans to be able to produce tempurature differences http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category/775/Thermoelectric_Coolers.html any ideas?

hey guys. i was wondering if anyone knew of good seats to put in the car. i'm looking for a light racing seat that's not too expensive. nothing like the range of sparcos or anything. those are crazily priced. lots of seats i'm looking at are too wide for the datsun. right now seats is the next decision to make because i need to figure out how to fab the mounts for them to go on. and also put them in to adjust my cage. here're the current pics.!

i think it looks too good to go with a body kit.

haha. just looking for a nice book that you'd wanna keep looking through. just pretty cars in pretty places with descriptions. thank you though.

Hey everyone, My girlfriend's dad has a car shop in california, Autosports Exclusive. anyways, his birthday is coming up and we're wondering if there's a really cool car book or poster that he'd like. i think he's more into old porsches and bmws. i've had some friends with nice car books but with mostly american cars

i really like the rear. that looks hot for a datsun. just clean. nice

Ok. so here're some pics of the work which is being done. also, in the frame rails there are places to bolt on the crossmember. but there were also holes about a food infront of those. i might be ridiculous in asking, but i don't remember what they're for. any help? just curious. also, does anyone know of a place besides MSA who'll sell rear panels that go under the tail lights? After some work by a friend... here come the new floors. the sad thing is... when taking out the old floors, there was less than half as much metal to take out than what is now replaced. a magnet would be able to stick to my car now!!

ok, so don't por the whol thing. haha. por15 is pretty expensive, so i guess i can take that advice. the thing is, the car had been blasted, and now is being worked on. so it's been bare this whole time (about a month) and will be bare for about another month. por15 is was first thought because with the 3 step process it's supposed to be able to handle the surface rust, and might even do better with the surface rust. is there anything else that would be good, because i know once rust starts, it's not going to stop. and i'm sure there's at least really minimal surface rusting on the car as it is. i could ask for it to be lightly blasted again i guess...? after the por15 that i'm thinking about coating the interior with, i have 100 sq. feet of dynamat. would that cover the interior space?

that post scares me. haha. did you marine clean and metal ready and remove the rust first? yeah. if i went through all this and i either have rust or a messed up finish... that'd be bad. i was thinking if i used a high build coat i could sand it down wicked smooth and it wouldn't really matter what's underneath... does this have any validity?

yeah. wow. that's interesting about the por not working. did you paint it at the right temp? i think i saw the hood that i'd like on msa, i'm sure if i called them they could give me the actual hood. anyone know of a good reason not to por the whole car?

ok, so i have lots of gut feelings about how things are supposed to go with my project, but i'm going to lay them out there for critizism. thinks i'm sure about- blasting the car and getting down to bare metal was a good idea fixing all rust and having a professional weld in new metal bought a lot of marine clean, metal ready, and por15. things that might be a good idea- i don't know why i'm so fixated on it, but i really want to por the whole car, and make sure the protection would never chip or let the metal rust. (mostly because the 240z is infamous for rust problems and i've already blasted it) things i'm not sure about- the doors of the 72 240z are troublesome. the locking mechanism is hard to deal with and always messes up, the window cranking devise and lowering/raising device are also hard to deal with. so... i'm thinking the best idea is to leave my car in naked metal untill i fool around with the doors and make sure they're what i want them to be... because i have to paint everything at once... right? to make sure the finish is consistent? i called por15 and they said if you apply a coat of por, wait 2-4 hours, coat it again, wait 2-4 hours, and then coat it with whatever primer you want, i could have the whole car por15ed while still ending up with a primer so i could put a high build onto it and sand down for consistency? i am working with someone who frequently paints, but isn't really a painting buff. since this is also the body kit section. does anyone know of a good hood which doesn't have a ridiculously high cowl but the cowl is still noticable and functional? i've got $11,000 into this project so far and really don't see an end in site, is anyone with me on that one? -matteo 1972 240z - ground up. mostly just ground.

i'm back on break and am thinking about working on my doors. i really like how lots of doors these days don't have that part on the very top to where the window cranks. like convertable doors, with nothing around the window. This must be possible with the z. would it be as easy at just grinding that metal surrounding portion off and putting thicker weatherstripping around where the window closes on the car? has anyone done this? also, is there a good site where someone has put poppers on their doors or electric windows? -as for the car. it is right now completely stripped and blasted. and i have lots of pictures of the problematic areas. So the plan is to weld in some steel squared piping for the frame rails. kind of like what mull did. and weld in some new floor pans. then replace the quarter panels. and replace that rear-most peice on the car, below where the tail lights are. so i'm asking... what is the most reliable, cheapest place to get all of these replacement parts? Thanks a lot. -matteo

hey y'all... i've heard many mixed comments on sandblasting. what i'm going to take out of it is to get someone who knows a lot about blasting before they actually do it. some say it takes down too much metal, or that it'll warp the sheetmetal, does anyone here know of a place around the washington dc area? also, where could i come about some extensions to make a rotisserie out of engine mounts?

if i go with the procharger or roots, would a duration of 285 and lift of 485 be useful for a performance cam?

so, i've heard of many people going with smaller heads to increase the compression ratio, are there any other heads that've been swapped which increase performance without the increase of the engine's compression ratio?

ok, i think now i want to go with a centrifugal super... maybe a universal procharger. they're more expensive though.

Hey everyone. i'm thinking about supercharging my L28 with an Eaton M62 Super. i was thinking the m62 because of all the cars it's been on (extige) and seems like it works really well. Does anyone have any more information on the m62, like which generation to get or anything? also, i have an l28 block with a higher compression head from a 71 240z, should i find another head, because, if i increase the volume of mixure into my cylinders, wouldn't that already increase the compression? My other questions are about my rebuild... i'm thinking about getting a crank with a longer throw, boring out my cylinders, replacing the pistons (would forged aluminum hold with the increased power from a supercharged detonation?), and replacing the camshaft (would a .550" Lift, and 304 duration work?) If y'all know about this stuff, i'd be happy to hear back! -matteo

thanks, let me know how that goes!