Wheeler

Tool man - I have only done some autocrossing with the car. That and weekend use is really what I use it for. It is fun and handles great and is loud and a little smelly...but it is fast. I followed a similar path to the one you are on. Once I redid the front subframe, I went on the the core support. Mine was a little bent (probably from an accident) and I thought I could improve it a bit. Here is one picture that I found. Lesson learned - you need to make sure the hood hinges work with your core support in the open and closed position. Mine contacted the sheet metal on either side of t

Nice work, I had to do a similar thing as well as my front sub-frame was damaged. I decided to make my own TC mounts however - i'll see if I have a picture or two. This combined with full length sub-frame connectors has really made my car stiff. You will like it when done.

I used a rebel 12 circuit harness. Worked very well no complaints. I really don't care for most of the painless products that I have seen.

I'm looking for a new challenge in my professional life and hoping somebody here might have some ideas or even opportunities. I've been at the same company for 15 years working as a mechanical engineer in differing capacitities on large off road vehicles. I started as a test engineer and worked my way up to engineering management but now I think it is time for something new. Looking to relocate to the western part of our great country or Wisconsin / Minnesota area and would consider working in many different technical or semi technical fields, but am not looking for a typical job in some bi

Wanted parts interior for my 280z. Looking for mostly parts for the hatch area plastic trim panels around the side quarter windows, behind the rear shock towers, the filler panel on the hatch, the panel over the tai lights inside. All in black. Parts must be in good shape. Let me know what you have

Paypal sent Thanks

Dhp. Done. Let me know how to pay you

Let me know if you have one without cracks. Thanks

Just need the lower rear portion of the inner fender plastic to prevent the accumulation of gravel between the fender and the body.

Well I put the rack stopper back in and took it for a drive. What a difference! There is still some feedback into the wheel over bumps but it is much better. The stopper bumper is about 1/16 away from the x-member when mounted, I think if I adjust it so it is tight against the x-member it may be even better.

Heavy, I put in the rack stopper, test drive in the morning. Monkey, Here is a picture from this summer, it is a little more complete now, have to do the interior yet. How is yours coming along?

Thanks for the suggestions. The front suspension is all new parts / bushings and feels tight (no slop) so I don't think wear is to blame. The front lca are not quite horizontal, I relocated the inner pivot outward and upward per the suggestions elsewhere on this forum (may have come from you John). Heavy, interesting thought, I did not put this back in. What does it do, prevent the rack from sliding lateraly?

My car (280z with ls1,az lca, coil overs, azcar 5 lug conversion) is finally out on the road and running pretty well. But now the process of dialing it in little begins. The biggest issue I am seeing is that the car is very sensitive to bumps in the road and will pull hard to the side of road in which the bump occurs. This is coupled with a lot of steering feedback, more than I would like. I don't believe this is bump steer (I have some of that too, but not too bad). I think it is excessive scrub radius causing this. I recently got the car aligned.... Caster 3.125 degrees Camber

Pete, How do I go about ordering a couple of these without speaker holes?