KAZU

The auction describes these are chrome-plated fiber glass trim.

Front struts is still 240z right now. My setup is Z31 turbo hubs with wilwood Pantera hats, Coleman 13" rotors and 1st gen Viper calipers. These parts will be replaced with E36M3 spindles with 330-32 AP floating rotors, wilwood 6 pot SL calipers. I finally got sets of AP floating rotor bobbins. Taller bobbins have too much floating play. I'll use shorter set. Also I've gotten a set of Wilwood rotors and hats which I do not use. I'll order a set of billet hats for AP rotors. New welding helmet is amazing. Less than $100 and large lens area.

Hello guys. I spent 3 months to pass the paper work for the engine swap. In Japan, engine swap even on old cars requires proof of engine specs, proof of strength of drive shaft, engine mounts, etc. My car had been registered with RB26 and RB25 I swapped at this time is essentially less power so it is generally easy to prepare the registration application. Problem was the inspection officer was so young, not so experienced. When the application was accepted, he said that this application was good opportunity to study how to review the engine swap registration. During the period I also completed the application for rack and pinion, LCA and steering shaft swap. I've already gotten reproduction headlight covers and used genuine trims. My car is for track use so I do not want put the genuine trims. I am going to fabricate the cover trims because no reproduction attempt fulfilled until now. Rear collision is repairing. I am going to use Prius power steering shaft. More power than Suzuki k car's which is on my car now. Bead roller DC motor modification. I also made pedal-actuated shrinker. Flares cracked here and there. Repaired with fiber glass and filler.

I agree with you 100%. You placed the subframe appropriately.

My Z has RB25 with Tilton RB26 clutch and flywheel, and SR20 transmission. I think the input shaft is identical to another. Differences between them are rear housings, the length of the main shaft, and the lid shape of the shift mechanism.

Bell housings are completely interchangeable. You'll just need wrench, sockets, rubber hammer and a tube of silicone gasket.

I modified China TB to mate with stock RB25NEO TPS. The butterfly shaft was drilled and got a piece of TIG welding rod in with a bit of Loctite.

Finalizing the plumbing. Need false floor. Engine crank case vacuum regulator.

Hear it is. I bought longest and was realized too long and bought another set but I am not sure which one. They are sold as individual so you need two. The reamer is 1-1/2" taper which I found on amazon.com. The cheapest I found was just fine. Reaming with hand-held drill is not so difficult. It tends to drift (tilt), but can be corrected easily. Just check frequently until the stud seat in the taper. Slow speed, moderate pressure and big drill (800 w) may be the points. Or, just fix the arm on the drill press until you satisfy vertical of the hole and go. Forgot to mention, taper reaming requires cutting oil.

Search on ebay McGill Motorsport. http://stores.ebay.com/McGill-Motorsports/Metric-Sized-Accessories-/_i.html?_fsub=9594034014&_sid=222097034&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 BTW, I don't have any TTT parts. I'm using Allstar bump steer kit. I enlarged the Datsun knuckle arms to Pint taper.

Battery is relocated from behind the seats to engine bay. Mine doesn't have master cylinders there. Passenger side is occupied by oil tank. A trigger wheel once was mounted on the crankshaft. The problem is the sensor mounting. I can't figure out how to design a rigid sensor bracket. Crank case vacuum control plumping. Cam covers to vacuum regulator to one-way valve to the oil tank. Oil temperature sender is relocated because I placed it dead end of the oil passage in the filter block.

Oil filter mount. Brace between front cross member and TC rod pivots. Engine bay has been painted.

Suzuki k-car HVAC unit.

Paint top coat didn't bind to primer-surfacer. The color layer can be easily peeled by using a heat gun and scraper for head gasket. Windshield has been removed. I thought the weatherstrip should be cut, but it has been there only a year since replaced so it came out in 5 minutes without cutting. I'll reuse it. Engine is out and old paint has been stripped.

Sway bar brackets were welded under the rails. I added tub for the link rod end and the rod end is off the center of the lower arm. No good.